# Favorite Macro Lens for Watch Photography



## davidtsee

What do you guys use for Macro photography of your watch, eg. the movement or caseback, etc.? 

I have a 60mm M.Zuiko Olympus lens that I use and it's fun, had a 45mm Panasonic Leica that I used before but the 60mm is easier to use.

I'm mounting it onto a Olympus OM-D E-M5.. waiting to upgrade to the E-M1 in the near future.


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## om-4

I mainly use a 50/2.0 Zuiko D 43 macro lens on my E-30 or the manual 50/3.5 macro with extensiontubes for added magnification.
Also sometimes use the 50/3.5 with a generic tilt adapter on my Sony NEX-6 for some perspective control.

Great to see other 43/m43 shooters. The cropfactor does help with macro for more dof.

I keep the E-30 around for the OVF. In dimlit studio surroundings an EVF is not always the best.


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## JohnF

I've got several macro setups. 

Usually I've got the Zuiko 50 f2 macro lens on either the E30 or, more often lately, via adapter on a m4/3 body. That's for freehand stuff, largely. 

For closer work, Leica 100 f4 lens head on a Leica bellows via adapter. That's by necessity on a tripod. I've done some experimental panorama macro work mounting that setup on a Gigapan Pro robotic head, but that both unwieldy and hard to work with. 

I've got to try focus stacking as well. Depth of field is a problem with the diffraction problems showing up when stopped down significantly. Tried it a few times, but never got something worth showing...


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## Vracer111

Lot of Zuikoholics in here...not that its a bad thing! Only macro I have is the OM 50mm F3.5 which I use with my Olympus E-1. I use all manual OM primes with my E-1.


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## Muuds

Just started using a canon 100mm ef L is for watches... Great lens but I need more practice and some backgrounds plus additional lighting.


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## davidtsee

Muuds said:


> Just started using a canon 100mm ef L is for watches... Great lens but I need more practice and some backgrounds plus additional lighting.


Oh wow, that's an interesting one. I look forward to seeing some of your shots! Most of my shots reside in my FS posts in WUS /f29 section for selling watches.. I try to make some really nice shots. Here's one of my Zenton that I'm proud of, not Macro but still looks great.


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## Pakz

I've got two favourite "macro lenses"...
The first is a real macro lens, Tamron 90mm for Pentax mount.

The second is a 50/1.7 Pentax FA with extension rings. It's not super easy to use (but not bad neither, thanks to the live view) a bit slow when used with all the rings but the optical quality is really top notch.

Now if I really want über small details, I use the Tammy with the extension rings...

And yeah, the background is all important...


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## Dave S

Currently I use either a 300mm Sigma or a reversed wide angle on my D7100. The kit 18-55 from my D50 makes a decent picture, though focusing requires moving the item...
Dave


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## zpyder

The Canon 100mm f2.8 L is on my wish list, until then I have been using the non-L version without IS. For the most part all my macro photography is on tripod, or uses a ring flash so the additional cost for the IS version isn't that high on my agenda. I do a lot of specialist entomological and scientific photography and often do image stacking, I've not really done much photography of my watches though.

I also use the Canon MP-E 65mm lens, which has an obscene 5x max magnification. I think the following images use a combination of the mp-e and image stacking for DoF, of my Stowa flieger.


Gears by Chris_Moody, on Flickr

Amazing what such high magnification can do for showing up all the microscopic pieces of crud, to the naked eye the watch mechanics are spotless. 

Shock by Chris_Moody, on Flickr

This one was taken using the 100mm macro and image stacking, the extra DoF I find makes it a little surreal. 

Back by Chris_Moody, on Flickr

Sent from my Tablet


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## davidtsee

Chris, those are absolutely stunning shots.. the springs seen is incredible!! Definitely professional to say the least. Thanks for sharing!



zpyder said:


> The Canon 100mm f2.8 L is on my wish list, until then I have been using the non-L version without IS. For the most part all my macro photography is on tripod, or uses a ring flash so the additional cost for the IS version isn't that high on my agenda. I do a lot of specialist entomological and scientific photography and often do image stacking, I've not really done much photography of my watches though.
> 
> I also use the Canon MP-E 65mm lens, which has an obscene 5x max magnification. I think the following images use a combination of the mp-e and image stacking for DoF, of my Stowa flieger.
> 
> 
> Gears by Chris_Moody, on Flickr
> 
> Amazing what such high magnification can do for showing up all the microscopic pieces of crud, to the naked eye the watch mechanics are spotless.
> 
> Shock by Chris_Moody, on Flickr
> 
> This one was taken using the 100mm macro and image stacking, the extra DoF I find makes it a little surreal.
> 
> Back by Chris_Moody, on Flickr
> 
> Sent from my Tablet


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## imaCoolRobot

The Canon MP-E 65mm is a hell of a lens. Now I'm tempted to drag out my macro bellows...bah..lazy.
I've been doing my shots with a simple Micro-Nikkor AF 105mm f/2.8D


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## davidtsee

chuasam said:


> The Canon MP-E 65mm is a hell of a lens. Now I'm tempted to drag out my macro bellows...bah..lazy.
> I've been doing my shots with a simple Micro-Nikkor AF 105mm f/2.8D


Show off some example shots!!


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## imaCoolRobot

davidtsee said:


> Show off some example shots!!


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## imaCoolRobot

Let's see a crop


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## davidtsee

chuasam said:


> View attachment 1338350
> Let's see a crop


That's incredibly insanely beautiful...


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## Dave S

Taken with a selection of cheapo lenses on my shiny D7100.

This one is with a reversed 28mm old film SLR lens ( Hanimex f2.8) and Nikon BR2A reversing adaptor (basically F mount to 52mm filter thread)



This was the D50 Kit 18-55 zoom at 18 on the adaptor:



and this was zoomed to 55 IIRC



The watch is a little Ladies Hi-Beat Seiko I bought for my wife (it has some issues I need to fix first, but it was only £10 :-! )



Im just starting in Macro.

Dave


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## zpyder

Hmm I like the aged look on the mechanism. My grandmother left behind several mechanical watches, wonder what I could do with those, thank you for the inspiration! 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## citjet

I second the Tamron 90mm. Very sharp and includes IS for those last minute hand held shots. But great bang for the $


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## Halewah

Panasonic GX7 c/w 45mm f/2.8 Macro lens


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## davidtsee

Did you add the glimmer? That would be crazy if you got yours lens to capture that- I haven't been able to! Beautiful GMT btw



Halewah said:


> Panasonic GX7 c/w 45mm f/2.8 Macro lens


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## antigalacticos

Canon 100 mm 2.8 macro usm. mounted on Eos550D. Gives really sharp nice pictures.


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## Halewah

Hi David, the star burst effect is one of the effects available on the Panasonic GX7....


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## Will_f

One of my favorites: olympus 60mm F2.8 for m43 format.


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## whitter45

Hi Guys

New to the forum but into photography. My macro lens is a cosina which can be picked up for very little - some samples of my collection


DSC_3538 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


DSC_4316 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


DSC_4321 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


DSC_5476 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


DSC_5478 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


DSC_3774 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


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## Longjean

Now if I really want über small details, I use the Tammy with the extension rings..

My choice also, Apaptall mount for universal fit. Autofocus is not required for macro and indeed can be a nuisance.


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## solesman

Will_f said:


> One of my favorites: olympus 60mm F2.8 for m43 format.


Love the light on the chamfers. Great pic 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Will_f

solesman said:


> Love the light on the chamfers. Great pic
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. I'm strictly amateur so it's just a lucky shot


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## ron gray

Cast another vote for the 90mm 2.8 from Tamron…wonderful lens!


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## walkersp

To those who shoot Nikon, I highly recommend the AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8:

http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/len...o/af-s_vr_micro-nikkor_105mmf_28_if/index.htm


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## zephyrnoid

Very impressive guys! I always find that lighting 1:1 and greater so challenging. I'd love to spin off a discussion of how you solved this challenge.
For what it's worth- I shoot with a point and shoot (2/3" sensor) and get really nice CU's and 1:1 but not Micro's.
If I had it my way I mix the past with the present- Digital body > View camera > APO enlarging lens ( reversed )
Here is a cropped part of a larger image made with a Nikon Coolpix 5000!


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## whitter45

Very good guys

one more


DSC_5498 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


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## davidtsee

Hey Paul!

Beautiful shot.. that jewel is popping and to be able to see the brushed swirls on the movement is intense.. wow. Which watch is that?



whitter45 said:


> Very good guys
> 
> one more
> 
> 
> DSC_5498 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


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## whitter45

davidtsee said:


> Hey Paul!
> 
> Beautiful shot.. that jewel is popping and to be able to see the brushed swirls on the movement is intense.. wow. Which watch is that?


Thanks its a chopard mille


DSC_5506 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


DSC_5496 by Paul Whitt82, on Flickr


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## GuySie

zephyrnoid said:


> Very impressive guys! I always find that lighting 1:1 and greater so challenging. I'd love to spin off a discussion of how you solved this challenge.


Lightboxes or softboxes, with strobe. I find that available light macro shooting is too horrible to fathom for me. Especially with moving parts - a seconds hand, a balance, etc - long shutter times really don't work. My main problem is that I don't have an official macro lens, so I use poor man's methods that put my camera right up to the watch. As in centimeters away. You have to find the angles that will let you light the watch properly, even though you're blocking a lot of the area with your lens, body and hands. I also still haven't found a good solution for the fish-eye-look-reflection-of-the-photographer you sometime get in certain parts of a watchcase, apart from removal in post. Usually I now just try to avoid having those parts of the case in the composition of my macro shot.

I've tried all of the poor man's methods with tubes, magnifiers, reverse, etc. My main lens of choice these days is a modded 28-80 Canon kitlens that has its front element removed, like so:
Turn an Old Kit Lens Into a Macro Lens by Removing the Front Element

Considering you're modding a lens that can barely get sold for 20 bucks on a good day, it's surprising you can make these kinds of pics with it:

Poljot 31659 chronograph movement (early 80s)


Molnija 3602 pocket watch movement (early 50s)


Just to show you a quick comparison of what this lens can do, check these pics from the Canon 100mm macro lens, a 18-55 kitlens with tubes and the modded 28-80 lens out - they have only been corrected in LR to match exposure, everything else is SOC:

The movement:


100mm macro lens:


18-55 kitlens on tubes:


Modded 28-80 lens:


For pure magnification it blows the 100mm out of the water.

Ofcourse, if that's not close enough for you...

Modded 28-80 lens on tubes:


On my 24" screen that jewel is bigger than the entire watch is in real life.


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## Will_f

Great photos Guy Sie. I have that same chronograph movement and it is not easy to get pics that clear. Makes me want to get a set of tubes for my 40-150mm (80-300mm equivalent).

Will


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## GuySie

Will_f said:


> Great photos Guy Sie. I have that same chronograph movement and it is not easy to get pics that clear. Makes me want to get a set of tubes for my 40-150mm (80-300mm equivalent).


Thanks! Good lighting makes all the difference in the world in my experience. In the ST19 test shots the camera couldn't 'see' anything reflected in the movement other than the softbox standing behind the watch, which has been positioned to cover the entire family of angles I'd use to take these test pics. All the metal parts reflect the same off-white tone from the white softbox cloth. Somewhat dull, yes, because proper reflections can really add interest to a watch photo, but here it helps in making the blue/purple/yellow parts pop out more. Those could really shine after some postprocessing.
But had I lighted this differently, sideways for example, and the metal parts had reflected the interior of the rest of my room, this would've just been a mess.


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## GirchyGirchy

I've been impressed with my Tokina 10mm macro for my Nikon D300. Fit and finish is fantastic and it's sharp as a tack.


_DSC1664 by GirchyGirchy, on Flickr


DSC_0299 by GirchyGirchy, on Flickr


DSC_0265 by GirchyGirchy, on Flickr


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## davidtsee

Any tips for me? This is with a 60mm M.Zuiko Oly Macro.. I couldn't get it any closer..


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## zephyrnoid

Cool trick! Wonder if works on Nikon kit lenses?


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## zephyrnoid

Also . Has anyone tried focus stacking?


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## GuySie

zephyrnoid said:


> Also . Has anyone tried focus stacking?


That's still on my todo list. Magic Lantern, a firmware add-on for Canon dSLR's, has an automated focus stacking function built in to automatically shoot and refocus repeatedly to get X images. But my modded kitlens has no motorized focus anymore so need to try that in a different way.


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## davidtsee

Apologies for the noise.. not sure how to get rid of it! But here's my shot:
M.Zuiko f2.8 60mm Macro


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## GuySie

davidtsee said:


> Apologies for the noise.. not sure how to get rid of it!


Lightroom has very good noise reduction built in.


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## zephyrnoid

Nice. What sensor size ?


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## heavyweather

I use a Tokina 105mm f/2.8 macro jobby. It gets the job done! Haven't tried focus-stacking, video, or extension tubes with it. Used to have a set of Nikon bellows (I think) for medical macro usage. That'd let me REALLY get in there.


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## davidtsee

Medical Macro? What did you do?



heavyweather said:


> I use a Tokina 105mm f/2.8 macro jobby. It gets the job done! Haven't tried focus-stacking, video, or extension tubes with it. Used to have a set of Nikon bellows (I think) for medical macro usage. That'd let me REALLY get in there.


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## richnyc

Just found this thread... Interesting stuff. I can add a few links to a commercial photographer that I follow where he explains his watch photography. Interestingly, I found him because of our mutual interest in street photography but was surprised that he actually started out as a watch photographer

Enjoy, there is some decent advice about his process and setups. IIRC, he did some work for major watch magazines:

Watch photography, part one: Introduction
Watch photography, part two: Using what you've got
Watch photography, part three: Getting Serious


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## forbigger

i currently uses fuji xe-2. the system lacks a good macro lens. the available xf-60mm macro only gives 1:1 magnification and the af is slower than most of macro lens which is already slow. I resist myself buying it. anyone here can give a good alternatives for macro lens? be it using adapters or macro rings? If such product available thats compatible with fuji, what brand is it? Thanks


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## Nokie

> I use a Tokina 105mm f/2.8 macro jobby


I have good luck with this lens as well.


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## ERay01

Sigma 150mm Macro. This pic isn't at full 1:1 yet and I definitely could have gotten closer.









Also have a recently purchased Nikon 70-180mm macro but haven't had a chance to try it on my watches yet...


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## Phiyama

I just got this today for my phone (Sony Xperia Z) and been playing around with it. Not bad for $20 off Amazon. Not the best of course but I'm happy as a clam! Comes with a fish eye and wide angle lense also.

Sent from my C6602 using Tapatalk


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## Will_f

Thought I'd post this one to the thread too. It's not a super beautiful movement, but well, it is a macro shot.


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## Brad Maestas

My favorite macro lens is probably the Zeiss Makro-Planar 120/4 CF for Hasselblad V. I don't do much watch photography (yet) but I use it for a lot of different product photography. I also use a Zenza-Bronica PS 110/4 a lot. In 35mm the only macro I still have is a Nikkor 55/2.8 AI-s which I mount on film and NEX bodies. I've got tubes for all systems so I can go larger than life-size. The ultimate is a bellows system that lets you adjust your tilt, shift, rise & fall so you have total control over the focus plane and perspective. I mainly shoot film in Leica Ms so I haven't felt the need to really geek out on macro, though I have already by most standards.


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## AirWatch

Brad Maestas said:


> ...I mainly shoot film in Leica Ms so I haven't felt the need to really geek out on macro, though I have already by most standards.


I am curious about choosing film as your main medium. Is it a camera preference thing or something else?


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## Eklipz

A shot from a Nikon 5100 with a 85mm macro just got the lens and was trying it out


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## Will_f

Brad Maestas said:


> My favorite macro lens is probably the Zeiss Makro-Planar 120/4 CF for Hasselblad V. )


I bet you could buy a pretty nice watch for the price of one of those.


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## GuySie

Will_f said:


> I bet you could buy a pretty nice watch for the price of one of those.


My watch friends always say "do you know what kind of watch you could buy for that money!?!" when I buy a lens.
My photography friends always say "do you know what kind of lens you could buy for that money?!?" when I buy a watch.

:')


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## Apollo83

Great thread guys - thanks from an amateur.

I'm finding lighting for macro even harder than lens selection.

These two not technically macro, but how can the same watch look so different?

With bright artificial light:









With diffuse window light on a cloudy day:









As for lens selection, I'm experimenting by borrowing friends kit  .

First I've tried a macro filter (close-up lens) on my kit lens:









I found quite severe aberration on the edge of the picture, but found cropping in to the centre of the picture afterwards can get you an almost usable image...

Next weekend I'm hoping to get my hands on some extension tubes for my kit lens... I'm hoping no optical distortion with that one, but maybe magnification won't be great at longer focal length?

Anyway the experiments might let me know if I need/want a dedicated 1:1 macro lens... or do I look for that Damasko I've had my eye on...


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## Will_f

zephyrnoid said:


> Also . Has anyone tried focus stacking?


I have. It's harder than it looks. Here's an example:


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## Seagull S6

Halewah said:


> Panasonic GX7 c/w 45mm f/2.8 Macro lens


I have the GX7 too! Great camera, I just need to get my hands on the olympus 60mm.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Apollo83

Apollo83 said:


> As for lens selection, I'm experimenting by borrowing friends kit  .
> 
> First I've tried a macro filter (close-up lens) on my kit lens:
> 
> View attachment 1522882
> 
> 
> I found quite severe aberration on the edge of the picture, but found cropping in to the centre of the picture afterwards can get you an almost usable image...
> 
> Next weekend I'm hoping to get my hands on some extension tubes for my kit lens...


So I borrowed the extension tubes with following result in otherwise similar set-up (cropping down to approx same area):









I'm much happier with that.
Slightly less magnification than the close-up lens I tried but much better optical quality (due to the fact the tubes introduce no new glass)

Anyway at ~$30 I think I will definitely get the extension tubes and maybe a rail for fine tuning focus...

Cheap way to improve your lens for macro I think...

And some money left over for...
... what, I wonder?


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## Borbor

i don't shoot watches, but a lot of other product shots that require macro shots.

never looked back after I started using a pc-e lense (TS for you canon guys). I always thought I could never part with my 100 zf.2, but now it's more like you'll need to pry my 85 pc-e off my hands. 

gotta agree with Brad's choice of tools of the trade  for the film guys, it was painful as hell going to digital. I still shoot a ton of film for my personal projects, but anything that involves a client, speed and deadline, got no choice but to go digital.


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## fatalelement

I usually use a Zuiko Digital 50mm 1:2 macro on my Olympus E-30. I was trying this morning to find an EX-25 extension tube in L.A. so that I could do 1:1, but instead I ended up getting a deal and buying the Zuiko 35mm 1:1 macro instead. I'm really happy with it as it has a deeper plane of focus when I need it and seems much sharper than my 50mm in certain conditions.

In any case, I'm very happy to have both.

Attached are some shots with them:

50mm

ZIM russian movement








armida a7














35mm

trying some (highly drinkable and smokable) props with an armani ar0387








extra 7s26 I keep around just in case


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## Richard-

New to DSLR cameras, normally a point and shoot guy. A few first attempted shots using macro tubes on a Canon EOS and a standard 18-55 kit lens. I have been told that using an old 50mm lens and then using an M42 adapter can really help, I hope to have this lens tomorrow.

Initial observations are that while using tubes you need a steady hand and a ton of light, it's Ireland and it is dark and rainy today so all I have is normal lighting in the home. In the coming weeks I will purchase a light tent and some proper lighting.

None of the shots are cropped, they are as was taken. In the second and third photos you can see how narrow the dept of field is, apologies if this is the incorrect term.

(Disclaimer: this camera is NOT mine it belongs to my wife. I purchased it for her birthday last week and have been ordering accessories for it and have hijacked it every chance I get. But just in case she reads this post... honestly honey it really is your camera )







The following pic was taken a few days ago and using the tip that GuySie previously mention. I picked up a $20 28-55 lens and removed the front element a reverse fitting ring was also picked up. Again without proper lighting this was a struggle but a few came out.


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## Apollo83

Richard- said:


> Initial observations are that while using tubes you need a steady hand and a ton of light, it's Ireland and it is dark and rainy today so all I have is normal lighting in the home. In the coming weeks I will purchase a light tent and some proper lighting.


Weather was great in Ireland until a couple of days ago - when we get our sunny week, you have to use it quick! 

I'm still learning too, but I find that tripod (or beanbag or whatever) plus remote shutter release (or using the timer) is essential for macro - so unsteady hand shouldn't be a problem.

Also for lighting, the diffuse light on a cloudy day (that is so common in Ireland) is great even lighting.
Put your kit next to a window to those clouds , aperture stopped down to get depth of field and set exposure longer on that steady tripod and you're good to go.

Good luck.


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## fatalelement

This will seem incredibly dumb, but the way you press the shutter button is a huge help. The macro above of the 7s26 was just on a tripod without timer. I was reading a book on photography in general, and apparently the way to do it is roll your fingertip lightly across the button from far to near (relative to your face), rather than press. This doesn't jerk the camera at all (as the axis of movement is against your cheek rather than up and down), and if you're on a tripod it doesn't wobble.

My macro lenses are both primes, though, which is a huge help as they are very fast.


Apollo83 said:


> Weather was great in Ireland until a couple of days ago - when we get our sunny week, you have to use it quick!
> 
> I'm still learning too, but I find that tripod (or beanbag or whatever) plus remote shutter release (or using the timer) is essential for macro - so unsteady hand shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> Also for lighting, the diffuse light on a cloudy day (that is so common in Ireland) is great even lighting.
> Put your kit next to a window to those clouds , aperture stopped down to get depth of field and set exposure longer on that steady tripod and you're good to go.
> 
> Good luck.


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## Mark in TCI

My macro set up






















Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


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## Marlinbob

Recently I have ditched all the Nikon DSLR gear and gone all micro 4/3 and so far have no reason to think it was a mistake.
This was the very first shot with the Olympus EM1 and 60mm macro.

Hamilton on a Wingmaster.

http://P6240013 by robhufton62, on Flickr


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## markot

I also ditched all my DSLR gear for micro four thirds system a couple of years ago and don't regret it at all.
I have an Olympus OM-D E-M10 and for macro shots I use Olympus 12-50mm which has a macro function, granted it's not 1:1, but gets pretty close.


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## Will_f

Marlinbob said:


> Recently I have ditched all the Nikon DSLR gear and gone all micro 4/3 and so far have no reason to think it was a mistake.
> This was the very first shot with the Olympus EM1 and 60mm macro.


The smaller m4/3 size is pretty nice. How's the EM1 on capturing moving targets?


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## fatalelement

I use regular four thirds still (E-30), but I'm about to pick up an adapter to m4/3. Are they awesome? I have the 50mm ED macro and the 35mm 1:1 macro for my e-30, but I'd like more affordable lens spread. 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## Will_f

fatalelement said:


> I use regular four thirds still (E-30), but I'm about to pick up an adapter to m4/3. Are they awesome? I have the 50mm ED macro and the 35mm 1:1 macro for my e-30, but I'd like more affordable lens spread.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


IMHO the primes are very nice indeed, especially the 45 f1.8 and 75 f1.8. The pro 12-40 f2.8 is a good lens but not so good I would buy an adapter to an e-30. The upcoming 40-150 f2.8 might be worth it though. The 60 f2.8 macro takes WAY better pics than the old OM 50mm macro I adapted, but it was a cheap eBay pick-up. Given the falling prices for 4/3 lenses, I wouldn't do the change for affordability reasons.


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## fatalelement

Will_f said:


> IMHO the primes are very nice indeed, especially the 45 f1.8 and 75 f1.8. The pro 12-40 f2.8 is a good lens but not so good I would buy an adapter to an e-30. The upcoming 40-150 f2.8 might be worth it though. The 60 f2.8 macro takes WAY better pics than the old OM 50mm macro I adapted, but it was a cheap eBay pick-up. Given the falling prices for 4/3 lenses, I wouldn't do the change for affordability reasons.


I have basically every Olympus 4/3 that is 3 figures. Most of the things past that reach absurd (to me) midrange 4 figures, but I'd like more primes and that doesn't seem to be an expansive option with 4/3. I'd buy an adapter for more sweet sweet primes.

Are there any primes/reasonably fast lenses you know of in 4/3 that are well regarded? I'm not very knowledgeable about non-Olympus lenses.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## Will_f

Try this web link. It's not totally current, but is got some good suggestions

http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/tag/best-micro-43-lenses/


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## om-4

fatalelement said:


> I use regular four thirds still (E-30), but I'm about to pick up an adapter to m4/3. Are they awesome? I have the 50mm ED macro and the 35mm 1:1 macro for my e-30, but I'd like more affordable lens spread.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


4/3 to m4/3 will work with adapter. Not the other way around. M43 is mirrorless and have shorter flangedistance hence an adapter (length of mirrorbox) can be used to adapt your regular 4/3 lenses.

Not much to choose from for regular 43 nowadays. The best lenses from Oly or Panasonic (Leica branded) for 43 are expensive. There was a Sigma 30/1.4 which isn't bad but focuses slow.
Other than that you'd need to go manual and shop for Samyang or old manual Oly, Minolta, Nikon glass with appropiate adapter for your E-30.

The upgrade to m43 that will allow decent phocussing speed on your existing 43 lenses is the Olympus OM-D EM1 flagship


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## Ric Capucho

Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope.

Taken with my iPhone 4S fitted with an Olloclip macro lens, all mounted on a Gorilla tripod, and using the button on the standard headphones as a remote release. The Camera+ app is a massive improvement on the standard app and only costs a few dollars. Popped the lot into a white lightbox lit up with direct sunlight.

Quite chuffed with the results considering the equipment.

Depth of field comes for free as the Olloclip macro has the very thinnest of focus ranges.

The wife's new Leica C is supposed to have a capable macro zoom function so shall take a moment to play with a few shots while I'm at a loose end here on the family hols. Shall return with the pickie results if they're fit for publication.

Ric


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## Ric Capucho

Celadon Imperial, focusing on the blued hands and blued crown. Using the wife's Leica C on automatic macro mode. Lots of detail in the image so I cropped it like hell.

Ric


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## Brad Maestas

AirWatch said:


> I am curious about choosing film as your main medium. Is it a camera preference thing or something else?


I started out shooting film in the '80s and still have a lot invested in film workflow but yes, I also definitely enjoy the user experience of those cameras! The similarities between the M3 and a fine mechanical watch are undeniable.

I will say I get amazing results with the Micro-Nikkor 55/2.8 and 60/2.8D on NEX bodies. I only recently got a 60/2.8D (which goes down to life-size) but I think for watches, a 100mm and ring light is the way to go.


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## FastCatStudio

Ya'll have some really cool images! The only watches I have photographed are the two pocket watches that I inherited recently; I do photograph jewelry and food quite a bit. I will use either a 105mm or an 85mm perspective control for those. Have any of you tried something like a LensBaby?


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## Declan79

I like using a Zuiko 50/1.4 or 1.8 or the Tamron SP 90/2.5 with all the 2xTC and 1:1 macro converter on my E-3 or E-PL2, it's quite surprising me to see Olympus user in here


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## Declan79

E-3+Tamron SP Adaptall 90/2.5 with MC con


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## Declan79

Still the same combo E3+90/2.5


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## Mojo31

100 f2.8








[/url]
watch-1149 by Nobody special 2010, on Flickr


knife-1214 by Nobody special 2010, on Flickr


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## Gordon Fraser

I use a Nikon D7000 with a 40mm f/2.8 and I love it. The 40mm lends a different perspective than the larger focal length macro lenses, not as flat/face on as you can get right in about it. I use a Yongnuo YN-560III Wireless flash and RF603 triggers, along with a cheap stand and Cullman shoot-through to get lovely even and more crucially, soft light. Bare flashes have a harsh shadow and throw the darker areas in to pure blackness; with the surface area of the brolly it makes a lot of light head in to the darker crevasses.

All hand-held with settings 1/250 | f/6.3 | ISO100. The only pitfall with the 40mm is that you need to get really close to the subject for macro, which can have impact on the light reaching the subject, but with intelligent brolly placement it's not an issue at all. These images have not been cropped to make them bigger - these are all full res.

I used to be a Canon guy but 2 years ago I moved to Nikon and I've never looked back.

EDIT: I should add - Lightroom is the dogs danglies and an essential part of my setup. Without it I'd not get anything close to these shots, in file size, noise reduction, blemish removal and post-production.

































This one I've cropped to show the detail res of this lens - I don't think this is 1:1 yet.

















And the 40mm also has a min aperture of f/2.8 which makes for some absolutely beautiful bokeh shots, the first was natural morning light, second a side-light - ISO boosted to compensate.

















These are under flash - some tremendous separation with that shallow DOF.


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## Declan79

Great lighting experience Gordon

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk


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## Yrh0413

Gordon those are some superb close-up photos you got there! Excellent lighting and you captured plenty of details, even revealed the flaws on the blue screws.

I miss my 100mm f/2.8 macro... sold all my Canon DSLR setup and went for Fuji x-series; unfortunately the only macro lens in the line-up is the 60mm f/2.4 which is a 1:0.5.
Recently bought an extension tube to bring the magnification to 1:0.8 but still not remotely close to 1:1 magnification... probably need to get another extension tube to get closer.

Some of my shots, taken with the Fuji XF60mm f/2.4 (with and without extension tube) on my aging x-pro1.


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## Gordon Fraser

Yrh0413 said:


> Gordon those are some superb close-up photos you got there! Excellent lighting and you captured plenty of details, even revealed the flaws on the blue screws.
> 
> I miss my 100mm f/2.8 macro... sold all my Canon DSLR setup and went for Fuji x-series; unfortunately the only macro lens in the line-up is the 60mm f/2.4 which is a 1:0.5.
> Recently bought an extension tube to bring the magnification to 1:0.8 but still not remotely close to 1:1 magnification... probably need to get another extension tube to get closer.
> 
> Some of my shots, taken with the Fuji XF60mm f/2.4 (with and without extension tube) on my aging x-pro1.


Thank you! Yeah a camera has the unfortunate ability to reveal even the smallest of flaws. The beauty of the 40mm is that I can get 1:1, even if the lens ends up only 35mm from the subject. For me, extension tubes introduce more CA and distortion so I prefer to start with a lens that can get the properties I want without additional bits. If I then want to magnify even closer I can just crop - the D7k is beautiful for that kind of thing, great noise control and sharpness. Again Lightroom does wonders for any further physical and digital flaws like profile adjustments (barrel distortion etc) and CA removal.

Far too technical for a weekday.


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## delicious

Don't do much macro work anymore but definitely like working with a Canon 1Ds Mark III and 100 2.8L macro. Great control and not to much saturation that you start to see in newer Canon bodies.


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## Muddy250

Lovely shots there from that 40mm. I use a D300 and a Sigma 150mm f2.8. Opposite reason from Gordon, I like the extra working distance because I only use natural light so I need that space to get it in there.
I too recently bought an X series but have yet to try macro with it. The 60mm is only 0.5 I think but those extension tubes they just released may do the trick. That or a metabones adaptor so I can use my Nikon mount glass.

Few pics.


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## Gordon Fraser

Muddy250 said:


> Lovely shots there from that 40mm. I use a D300 and a Sigma 150mm f2.8. Opposite reason from Gordon, I like the extra working distance because I only use natural light so I need that space to get it in there.
> I too recently bought an X series but have yet to try macro with it. The 60mm is only 0.5 I think but those extension tubes they just released may do the trick. That or a metabones adaptor so I can use my Nikon mount glass.
> 
> Few pics.
> 
> View attachment 2477354
> 
> 
> View attachment 2477386
> 
> 
> View attachment 2477394
> 
> 
> View attachment 2477426
> 
> 
> View attachment 2477434
> 
> 
> View attachment 2477458


Crack-a-lackin' |>

Do you tripod for your shots or hand-hold?


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## Muddy250

Gordon Fraser said:


> Crack-a-lackin' |>
> 
> Do you tripod for your shots or hand-hold?


Tripod all the time for these. Mirror lock up, shutter delay and self timer to give myself the best chance of not bouncing what amounts to nearly 4kg of camera and lens around. Also don't move and hold breath.


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## Gordon Fraser

Sounds delicate!

I was the same until I bought cheap strobes and I've never looked back - repeatability, flexibility, control and light shaping all being really handy when trying to catch small details. Although once you pop that cork...pfffff £££


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## redisburning

Im quite fond of macros, so I own a few:


This has been my main camera since I started taking photos 4.5 years ago:


A bit of an odd choice, but I have a 2-4 screen and I put the camera in aperture priority, using the exposure comp when I know the meter is being stupid. I would have gotten a 4, but it's not so easy to adjust the comp so I never bothered.


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## Muddy250

Gordon Fraser said:


> Sounds delicate!
> 
> I was the same until I bought cheap strobes and I've never looked back - repeatability, flexibility, control and light shaping all being really handy when trying to catch small details. Although once you pop that cork...pfffff £££


I used to use lighting like that but over the years I've simplified everything right down. Just about to stop using the DSLR full stop I think, adaptor on the way for the Nikon glass so we'll see if I can make the permanent switch to the Fuji X system or not. I'll miss the instant focus and speed of the DSLR in some situations for sure but for 99% of my stuff it won't matter. 
That said it's not like I plan to sell the D300. I rarely part with anything like that.  
Never sold a single watch I bought.


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## Dave S

Muddy250 said:


> View attachment 2477362


Love that Highlight. :-! b-)

Such a shame it isn't lined up with the Dial. o|

If I could take that picture I'd have to line up the crystal for my own piece of mind.

Dave


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## Muddy250

Dave S said:


> Love that Highlight. :-! b-)
> 
> Such a shame it isn't lined up with the Dial. o|
> 
> If I could take that picture I'd have to line up the crystal for my own piece of mind.
> 
> Dave


I agree but it wasn't my watch to mess with.  if I had a speedy I'd get it aligned for sure.


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## Gordon Fraser

Muddy250 said:


> I agree but it wasn't my watch to mess with.  if I had a speedy I'd get it aligned for sure.


What is that anyway, an engraved crystal?


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## Muddy250

Gordon Fraser said:


> What is that anyway, an engraved crystal?


Yes. All genuine Omega acrylic crystals are signed like that in the centre. I noticed you could sidelight it whilst shooting the Speedmaster.


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## Dave S

Not a macro lens as such, but I converted this Zeiss Flektagon for my Nikon (did some machining to correct the flange distance, and changed the mount from M42 to F).



Does alright as a stand in close up lens:



I was inspired to take this by Muddy250's Omega shot:



I own 2 orange dialled Seikos, on Monster and one form around 1969, which was my fathers.

Dave


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## Gordon Fraser

Muddy250 said:


> Yes. All genuine Omega acrylic crystals are signed like that in the centre. I noticed you could sidelight it whilst shooting the Speedmaster.


Its all in the details! So sometimes they're not lined up with 12?


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## Muddy250

Gordon Fraser said:


> Its all in the details! So sometimes they're not lined up with 12?


Lined up would be a fluke. If you replace the crystal you can do it or get the watchmaker to. It's so small they don't bother. It would bug me tho.


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## Declan79

Tamron adaptall sp 90/2.5 with Macro Arm light on epl2


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## buntokomuller

Pakz said:


> And yeah, the background is all important...


Background Bokeh


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## Buzzedhornet

I have not tried any macro with watches yet, this thread has spiked my interest. I have an interesting set up that produces great shots. Nikon D300s, 70-200 2.8 VR with a Canon 500D close up lens attached.

Pics of a old Ferrari race car I took with this set up...


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## Aragis

I've got a Nikon D7000 and Nikkor 60mm Macro lens. Nikon Macro lenses really are incredibly sharp.


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## zephyrnoid

I just donated my workhorse Camera. No more stills for me for at least a year. Woo Hoo! VACATION! 
Have fun chaps!


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## zephyrnoid

Uh oh. My funky old Canon HV20 shoots killer macros I just discovered. I have to throw all my cameras out the window!


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## nldosz

Took these with a 40mm Nikon Micro f/2.8g
DSC_0036 by NLDOSZ, on Flickr
DSC_0035 by NLDOSZ, on Flickr
DSC_0008-2 by NLDOSZ, on Flickr
DSC_0069 by NLDOSZ, on Flickr


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## Chronograph_

i`ve been using Canon ef 50 1/2 for long time


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## shortpballer

My favorite is my 90mm Rodenstock HR Alpagon with a bunch of macro adapters. I haven't been on this forum in a while as I stopped collecting watches. But now I'm back and will be more present especially in the photography section.


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## Apollo83

My new favourite: Canon 100mm f/2.8L IS macro

My first picture using it of course had to be a watch movement...
Using lighting I thought would expose texture/imperfections the best.
(you don't want to look at your nice shiny steel this way!  )









Depth of field for 100mm @ f/16 and 30cm away was a problem (I'm guessing less than 1mm acceptable focus)
But it was nice to fill the whole frame with the subject instead of cropping to zoom.
Now if I crop to zoom it can get to pretty small scales with acceptable sharpness...

smaller








and smaller








and smaller








Next I'll try some pictures with nicer lighting and angles...
Cameras and watches in one activity - is there anything more fun? ;-)


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## lovin_watches

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS - great, versatile lens!


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## zephyrnoid

I've pretty much decided that the sensor choice comes first. 
Amazing results with 2/3 sensor though I imagine M43 would be great as well.
Then I'd go for a custom rig using an APO enlarger lens of 50mm or so.
Nikkor Macro Lenses have been good to me as well.


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## DonQuixote

That is incredibly beautiful, crazy how you captured the ruby, even the slight misshapen amalgamation in the last picture.

Really nice work. I think for me the hardest part is trying to keep all the dust off the watches when I'm shooting. I have a dedicated little blower just for that reason.



Apollo83 said:


> My new favourite: Canon 100mm f/2.8L IS macro
> 
> My first picture using it of course had to be a watch movement...
> Using lighting I thought would expose texture/imperfections the best.
> (you don't want to look at your nice shiny steel this way!  )
> 
> View attachment 3596090
> 
> 
> Depth of field for 100mm @ f/16 and 30cm away was a problem (I'm guessing less than 1mm acceptable focus)
> But it was nice to fill the whole frame with the subject instead of cropping to zoom.
> Now if I crop to zoom it can get to pretty small scales with acceptable sharpness...
> 
> smaller
> View attachment 3596162
> 
> 
> and smaller
> View attachment 3596170
> 
> 
> and smaller
> View attachment 3596202
> 
> 
> Next I'll try some pictures with nicer lighting and angles...
> Cameras and watches in one activity - is there anything more fun? ;-)


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## DonQuixote

fatalelement said:


> I use regular four thirds still (E-30), but I'm about to pick up an adapter to m4/3. Are they awesome? I have the 50mm ED macro and the 35mm 1:1 macro for my e-30, but I'd like more affordable lens spread.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


Really enjoying my m4/3 OM-D, they're really great and the newer lenses are awesome. Though I would say the benefit is the ability for body/lens to communicate- would recommend you get the m4/3 body as well.


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## Rigger73

I'm more than happy with my Sigma 105mm.

I had it for years with my Canon 300D, but couldn't get the lens to work properly, and so it sat for-lone in my camera bag.

In the meantime, I bought a Canon 7D, and this spring tried taking pics of a bumblebee alighting flowers in my back garden.

Once I found the right focusing mode - the lens came alive. Now more than happy with this lens.


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## JAfdem

I'm a Canon guy, and their latest 100mm Macro lens is just fantastic. Very versatile.


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## JAfdem

Agreed...one of the most versatile lenses in my bag. A keeper.


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## ChristopherChia

I have a Tokina 100mm f2.8 macro lens in Nikon mount. Fantastic metal built. Dropped in once and luckily it's still working.


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## Orange_GT3

walkersp said:


> To those who shoot Nikon, I highly recommend the AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8:
> 
> http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/len...o/af-s_vr_micro-nikkor_105mmf_28_if/index.htm


I'm a Nikon user (D600) and am looking at a macro lens. I was considering the 60mm Micro-Nikkor. Out of interest, why did you recommend the 105mm as opposed to any of the others in the range?

TIA.


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## Rigger73

Copied from another thread;

I bought this last time I was home, reverse macro lens adaptor. I'm happy enough with the Sigma 105mm Macro lens, but this just gives me a little flexability, and I can use my existing lenses.

Will try some macro photography when I get home, and post up the results. Won't be for a while though.

It won't break the bank either at £45.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MK-C-UP-Ele...rds=Meike+C-UP


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## Rolex John

I've used the Canon 100mm Macro (non L version) for like 15 years...


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## silvertonesx24

If you have the cash, the Zeiss 100mm f/2 Macro is just gorgeous. My personal favorite of the Zeiss line.


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## benasaki

I'm currently using an older Pentax KX with a 50mm Macro 2.8. The lens is exceptional- especially for the price.


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## JesterIzDead

I use a Nikkor 50mm 1.4. It's a portrait lense but achieves great depth of field. Ultimately, I'd like to get a low F stop zoom so that I can get a bit further away so as not to introduce shadows, but that lense is pricey and I keep spending the money on watches


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## mui.richard

AF Micro Nikkor 200mm f/4 ..extremely resolving and very versatile as far as a 200mm lens goes.




























a watch is meant to be worn


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## netwatch

Super nice shot! sorry, your bacground is hearting my eyes. too fuzzy


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## L_Valencia

I scored a Tokina 100mm F/2.8 for my Nikon D3300. But, on the D3300 body I lose auto focus. Great for Macro, sadly not great for anything else where I need quick focusing.


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## chriscentro

Tokina 100mm macro lens on full frame cam
@ f10


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## McCarthy

SONY A7R II and SONY FE 90mm f/2.8 Macro G OSS. Best combo I ever owned. Sold all my L glass.


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## John Sayles

Rigger73 said:


> Copied from another thread;
> Hi,I’m looking for macro set up using the meike reverse adapter,but can not find it anywhere.Any ideas.Thank you,John
> I bought this last time I was home, reverse macro lens adaptor. I'm happy enough with the Sigma 105mm Macro lens, but this just gives me a little flexability, and I can use my existing lenses.
> 
> Will try some macro photography when I get home, and post up the results. Won't be for a while though.
> 
> It won't break the bank either at £45.
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/MK-C-UP-Ele...rds=Meike+C-UP


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## garbidz

Muuds said:


> Just started using a canon 100mm ef L is for watches... Great lens but I need more practice and some backgrounds plus additional lighting.


Canon EF 100mm *L* delivers iconic picture quality. It is a magical lens. There are several LED light sources where you can set the color balance to please your eye. Check the Rotolight line. The Chinese carbon fibre tripods are great value today, I got a Sirui.


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## ILeicaWatches

I’ve had the Canon EF 100mm 2.8, Sony 90mm 2.8 and Sigma 100mm 2.8 and used on respective flagship bodies… I can say the Sony was one of the sharpest lenses I’ve ever used : )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Geology Rocks

Laowa 100mm 2:1 f2.8 on a Sony A7RIII


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## rkman11

Thinking of changing my low end Leica set up to a mid Fuji set up. Curious to hear what people have to say about using tunes for macro. Bandaid or doable?


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## dfwcowboy

Nikon 55/2.8 AIS


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## olske59

Also the Olympus Zuiko 50 mm macro here, with Olympus ring flash kit.


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## Longjean

Another Tamron 90mm lens here. I also use a Sigma 50mm 2.8 with extension tubes if called for.


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