# Stainless steel scratch



## jermyzy

I've only had the watch for less than a week and I already have a few scratches on the brushed steel surface of the watch case/bracelet. I know scratches on stainless steel is a fact of life (once I got over the first scratch :-d), so I'm not going to bother getting it fixed/polished now. I'm just wondering, when I bring it in for servicing every 5 years, can I get them to polish the entire watch, and if so, do they often come out looking "like new" condition? Thanks


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## D N Ravenna

jermyzy said:


> I've only had the watch for less than a week and I already have a few scratches on the brushed steel surface of the watch case/bracelet. I know scratches on stainless steel is a fact of life (once I got over the first scratch :-d), so I'm not going to bother getting it fixed/polished now. I'm just wondering, when I bring it in for servicing every 5 years, can I get them to polish the entire watch, and if so, do they often come out looking "like new" condition? Thanks


Companies can and will differ. I sent an IWC in and asked that they do a polish. The watch looked very good. I ahve heard that Rolex does the same. It is not cheap, so I would seriously consider it before going for it. I have heard Zenith will do the same, but you will have to ask first.

Regards,

Dan


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## jermyzy

Hm...how about for DIY? Which is better for brushed stainless steel scratch removal? Fibreglass pen or watchbandrenew ( https://www.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?t=148838&highlight=scratch+removal ) or rust removal bar (e.g. scotchbrite)?

I have an old beater Tag that I can practice on first :-d


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## D N Ravenna

jermyzy said:


> Hm...how about for DIY? Which is better for brushed stainless steel scratch removal? Fibreglass pen or watchbandrenew ( https://www.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?t=148838&highlight=scratch+removal ) or rust removal bar (e.g. scotchbrite)?
> 
> I have an old beater Tag that I can practice on first :-d


I have the fiberglass pen and find it very difficult to use for working on watches. I think it is a better device to use if you need to remove rust from something.

Other methods can be used, but you need to keep in mind that the reason your watches look the way they do when first bought is that the person who finished them has many years experience.

Finishing a surface, by definition, requires the removal of some of that surface. Removal of something that you cannot put back. Without the proper practice, one will get undulations, ripples, bright spots, etc.

Still, the only way to figure it out is by trial and error! ;-) Get some of the other items and practice. If not on your beater Tag, than maybe an Invicta! Just don't be dismayed if you don't like the results. One has to practice! It just may be worth it to see if you have the right stuff to finish a surface!

Keep us posted.

Dan


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## Daddel Virks

I'll start on a Timex than :-d.

Cheers,

Daddel.


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## kiterpete

I use this:

2 Micro Fiber Clothes (about 12" sq)
Glass Bowl
2 cups of cool water
1/4 cup Ammonia
1/4 Silver Polish

Soak one cloth in the mixed solution - hang to dry allowing excess to drip in to glass bowl. When completely dry, polish watch with cloth and then buff to a shine with the other cloth.

I store clothes in a zip/lock bag - and store the unused liquid to make extra clothes when needed.

Works.......


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## D N Ravenna

Thanks for the suggestion Kiterpete! I will have to try that sometime.

Cheers!

:-!

Dan


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## jermyzy

Kiterpete -> I'm assuming your method is for polished surfaces? Mine is a brushed surface, so I can't just buff.


I've located a Bergeon satin finish bar that I think might do the trick. Has anybody used these before? Do I just gently rub against the bracelet in the direction of the grain? Since the scrape on the bracelet is very minor/shallow, I'm assuming I don't need to use a fibreglass pen or anything to remove the scratch first?


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## kontai69

kiterpete said:


> I use this:
> 
> 2 Micro Fiber Clothes (about 12" sq)
> Glass Bowl
> 2 cups of cool water
> 1/4 cup Ammonia
> 1/4 Silver Polish
> Works.......


I can't see how this method will remove scratches from brushed metal.:think:
Seems more like a way to remove tarnish from silver.



> I've located a Bergeon satin finish bar that I think might do the trick. Has anybody used these before? Do I just gently rub against the bracelet in the direction of the grain? Since the scrape on the bracelet is very minor/shallow, I'm assuming I don't need to use a fibreglass pen or anything to remove the scratch first?


I've used them. All you have to do is brush in the direction of the grain to remove the scratch. The satin bar will work best on minor scrapes like you said.
HINT: you can buy a similar (same?) item as the Bergeon bar for only a few bucks (as opposed to $15 for Bergeon). They are called rust erasers...
http://www.theruststore.com/Sandflex-Rust-Erase-3-Pack-P11C7.aspx
Use the FINE grade.
Here is a how to I wrote...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/thaiguy69/clasprefinishing-1.jpg


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## jermyzy

kontai69 said:


> I've used them. All you have to do is brush in the direction of the grain to remove the scratch. The satin bar will work best on minor scrapes like you said.


Just wondering, 
1.) Do I brush very gently or do I have to apply more pressure when brushing? 
2.) Does it matter which part of the bar I use (e.g. can I use the edge or do I have to use the large flat area)
3.) Can you use this for spot blemishes or do you have to polish the entire link (so that it looks uniform)?


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## kontai69

jermyzy said:


> 1.) Do I brush very gently or do I have to apply more pressure when brushing?
> 2.) Does it matter which part of the bar I use (e.g. can I use the edge or do I have to use the large flat area)
> 3.) Can you use this for spot blemishes or do you have to polish the entire link (so that it looks uniform)?


Use moderate pressure. You actually can't brush too hard since the rust eraser "flakes away" as you brush, much like an ink eraser.

It does not matter what part of the bar you use. The bar uniformly contains abrasive inside out.

Yes, you would get a more uniform finish brushing the whole link. If spot finishing, you can see where you brushed vs the factory finish.

Here is my clasp after brushing with a rust eraser (as shown in my how to pic in my previous post)...








Even though it looks pretty good, it doesn't exactly match the factory brush finish, which are done with machines so the brush lines are a little more uniform.


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## obie

there is a way to do it. I spent 22 years doing show cars and bikes, so I'm Icar and ase certified. the trick is not to get ripples in the finish. a polished finish is the hardest to attain. I've seen some done where it looks polished but has a milky appearance. for the brushed finish, you need to use 2 different 3m scotchbrites, both availible at your local paint supplier. 1st one is the green or gray scotchbrite. that one leaves slightly heavier brush marks. that can be lessened by soaking it in soapy water for a few minutes. never use them dry. that leaves the fibers on the surface and causes deeper scratches that aren't even. after getting your brushed finish with the green, you will notice its very dull, grab the white scotchbrite, soak it in soapy water and use it over the surface. that will bring the satin sheen up to match the factory finish.


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## Daddel Virks

kontai69 said:


> Use moderate pressure. You actually can't brush too hard since the rust eraser "flakes away" as you brush, much like an ink eraser.
> 
> It does not matter what part of the bar you use. The bar uniformly contains abrasive inside out.
> 
> Yes, you would get a more uniform finish brushing the whole link. If spot finishing, you can see where you brushed vs the factory finish.
> 
> Here is my clasp after brushing with a rust eraser (as shown in my how to pic in my previous post)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though it looks pretty good, it doesn't exactly match the factory brush finish, which are done with machines so the brush lines are a little more uniform.


Wow, but that still looks like a job well done.

Cheers,

Daddel.


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## D N Ravenna

Lots of good info in this thread. I thank everyone for contributing. It has given even people like me some ideas.

:-!

Thanks!

Dan


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