# High End Leather Straps - Looking for Input



## Better than a Fossil?

I'm new to watches, and trying to learn about all of the aspects. I just got an Aqua Terra and I want to put it on a high quality black leather strap, and I really don't know how to tell what I'm getting online (or in person, if I had that option).

When it comes to what is considered a high end quality leather strap, I have no idea what the good options are. Looking for input on:

1. Trusted brands
2. Cow leather vs. other types
3. Any downsides to ostrich?
4. Tricks for getting leather straps on and off watches without damage
5. Anything else you wish you knew about leather straps before wasting time and money


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## Teeuu

Cordovan (or "Shell Cordovan") is horsehide instead of cowhide. It generally has a finer grain and some folks just like it better.

Here's a link to the Horween company, a leather tannery. They do not make watch bands but Horween leather is considered premium quality to the extent that many watch strap makers will specify that a strap is made from Horween leather. You can read about the different types of leather, tanning processes, and even see color samples.









Horween Leather Co.







www.horween.com


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## Nokie

Check out ABP.


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## Better than a Fossil?

Nokie said:


> Check out ABP.


Those look really nice - thanks!


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## Spikemauler

Look at Camille Fournet straps, I bought one years ago for one of my dress watches, very good quality


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## olske59

Better than a Fossil? said:


> When it comes to what is considered a high end quality leather strap, I have no idea what the good options are. Looking for input on:
> 
> 1. Trusted brands
> 2. Cow leather vs. other types
> 3. Any downsides to ostrich?
> 4. Tricks for getting leather straps on and off watches without damage
> 5. Anything else you wish you knew about leather straps before wasting time and money


Brands - ABP Concept or Genteel Handmade

I'm an alligator/cordovan for dress watches and bison/ostrich leg/calfskin for sportier watches. All wear well and I've never had one fall apart sooner than I though it should.


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## FortunateSon11

Bas & Lokes, and Bulang & Sons, are favorites of mine.


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## OldSeikoFan

Watch straps are an area where cost is not necessarily indicative of quality; I’ve seen expensive straps from “name” makers that weren’t particularly great, and lesser-cost straps from small artisans that were substantially better. Relying on a brand is not a good substitute for knowing what to look for.

My wife is a retired leatherworker, and through her I’ve learned a lot about what it takes to make great leather goods. The first two things I look at are the stitching and edge finishing.

The finer the thread, the smaller the needle holes, and the tighter the stitching, the more difficult it is to produce a good result. Working with fine thread and small stitches takes more craftsmanship and more time, which is why even some expensive straps will often use coarse thread and stitching. (Sometimes, of course, that can be a stylistic choice!)

Good edge finishing is harder to do than it looks; the surface has to be prepped (sanded then polished) and the edge coating applied evenly. Bad edge coating is rough and eventually peels; good coating is smooth and long-lasting. Beware the maker that won’t show you pictures of their edges.

I've settled on always going custom-made for my straps. It's no more costly and you get not just better quality, but perfect fit as well. My favorite strap maker is TUNS Leather in Vietnam (they have an Etsy shop in addition to their website). Their materials and workmanship are top notch, and their pricing is very fair considering the quality.


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## TimeWellSpent

Spikemauler said:


> Look at Camille Fournet straps, I bought one years ago for one of my dress watches, very good quality


Camille Fournet allows you to customize your strap online and get a preview of your own design. They also supply Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre, so these are high quality straps that typically range somewhere from $200 to $500.


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## TimeWellSpent

Teeuu said:


> Cordovan (or "Shell Cordovan") is horsehide instead of cowhide. It generally has a finer grain and some folks just like it better.
> 
> Here's a link to the Horween company, a leather tannery. They do not make watch bands but Horween leather is considered premium quality to the extent that many watch strap makers will specify that a strap is made from Horween leather. You can read about the different types of leather, tanning processes, and even see color samples.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Horween Leather Co.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.horween.com


I switched almost all my watches to Cordovan leather straps. They are softer and last significantly longer than regular cowhide. I found a few sellers on Etsy that provide really great quality and allow you to customize straps to your liking. If you check the seller reviews you should be on the safe side. 
The Horween company is a high quality provider, but there are also a bunch of smaller tanners, particularly in Vietnam but also other low-cost country (e.g. I got a really nice Cordovan strap from a vendor in Poland).


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## TimeWellSpent

Since I am a Shell Cordovan fan: In this picture you only see Cordovan straps - so you get them in all shapes and colors and you can give them a sporty or rugged look or super classical. I tried pretty much every material but for daily wear this has been my default option.


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## Better than a Fossil?

olske59 said:


> Brands - ABP Concept or Genteel Handmade
> 
> I'm an alligator/cordovan for dress watches and bison/ostrich leg/calfskin for sportier watches. All wear well and I've never had one fall apart sooner than I though it should.


Out of all of the sites I've browsed, those two brands really do look like some of the best for the dress look I want.

Is your dress/sport alligator/ostrich distinction kind of the standard view, or is it unique to you? I have not had the opportunity to see many quality straps in the flesh, so I'm looking for what sets those two apart other than the grain/pattern. I want to put an OEM Omega deployment clasp on the black leather for my Omega AT. Also, I'm guessing gloss is even a more dressy look, whereas the matte is more versatile? Based on my style (and the fact I may throw this watch on with a T-shirt, still) I'm thinking I should look at matte.

Thanks for any thoughts you can share.


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## Better than a Fossil?

TimeWellSpent said:


> Since I am a Shell Cordovan fan: In this picture you only see Cordovan straps - so you get them in all shapes and colors and you can give them a sporty or rugged look or super classical. I tried pretty much every material but for daily wear this has been my default option.


Thanks for all of the info and the pic. 

Until this thread, I didn't really understand what Cordovan was. I'm noticing I'm not seeing any "grain" finishes in Cordovan, and Cordovan appears to have a bit of gloss to it. For that style, I'll definitely keep Cordovan in mind. However, in my head for this purchase, I'm leaning towards an alligator or ostrich grain appearance. When I look for a new strap for my field watch, I think I'll go Cordovan.

Thanks, again!


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## Tekkamaki

Okay, got me looking at Tuns Custom Straps.

What leather strap would be best for this Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl with 20mm lugs?
-Type of leather 
-Color
-Taper 


















Was looking at this yellow
waxy leather... Thoughts?


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## OldSeikoFan

Better than a Fossil? said:


> However, in my head for this purchase, I'm leaning towards an alligator or ostrich grain appearance.


Ostrich quill (body - has little bumps on it) or leg (looks like lizard or, in some cases, alligator-ish)?


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## chas58

I rather like delug








Ready Stock Straps


Shop the wide range of handcrafted leather straps, in stock and ready to ship out worldwide immediately.




delugs.com





Might want to consider bespoke if you have something specific in mind. 
I had ideas, couldn't find it, and just ended up making my own straps.

Generally, pay attention to:

type of leather
thickness of leather and straps
multiple layers (top, bottom, underside, padding) if you care. Nato's are inexpensive as they are just one layer.
The taper you like
Stitching patterns you prefer (and quality/size of stitching).


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## TimeWellSpent

Better than a Fossil? said:


> Thanks for all of the info and the pic.
> 
> Until this thread, I didn't really understand what Cordovan was. I'm noticing I'm not seeing any "grain" finishes in Cordovan, and Cordovan appears to have a bit of gloss to it. For that style, I'll definitely keep Cordovan in mind. However, in my head for this purchase, I'm leaning towards an alligator or ostrich grain appearance. When I look for a new strap for my field watch, I think I'll go Cordovan.
> 
> Thanks, again!


That’s just my preference but you can get it with a matte finish as well.
For the super premium quality Alligayor and Ostrich straps do check Camille Fournet. Every once in a while you find their straps on eBay as well but make sure you buy from reputable sellers. Post pictures once you make a decision!


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## OldSeikoFan

Tekkamaki said:


> Okay, got me looking at Tuns Custom Straps.
> 
> What leather strap would be best for this Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl with 20mm lugs?
> -Type of leather
> -Color
> -Taper
> 
> View attachment 17080140
> 
> 
> View attachment 17080142
> 
> Was looking at this yellow
> waxy leather... Thoughts?


That is really good looking MOP! 

If I owned that watch, I wouldn't want anything to compete with the beautiful dial. Rather than getting a leather that draws attention to itself, I'd look at something understated that complimented the dial. I'd go for texture over pattern — goatskin would be good, alligator not so good. 

As to taper, it would depend on how "forward" I wanted the watch to be. For instance, tapered straps tend make the watch look bigger or more prominent; straighter straps tend to make the combination look more unified. A strong taper (20mm to 16mm) tends to disappear and let the watch "do the talking".

Just an old watchmaker's opinion, you understand!


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## duck2h

TimeWellSpent said:


> Since I am a Shell Cordovan fan: In this picture you only see Cordovan straps - so you get them in all shapes and colors and you can give them a sporty or rugged look or super classical. I tried pretty much every material but for daily wear this has been my default option.


How do you get them to maintain their shine? My shell cordovan are all full looking.


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## The Professional

Toshi Straps in the UK makes some of the best quality straps you’ll ever find. He offers many different types of leather, including Horween and shell cordovan in a variety of colors, textures, and thicknesses. His straps are one of the most often recommended here on Watchuseek and have been for probably a decade. You would be hard pressed to find better at any price. I’ve purchased three straps from him and I’m about to place an order for a fourth. 



https://toshi-straps.co.uk




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cykrops

FortunateSon11 said:


> Bas & Lokes, and Bulang & Sons, are favorites of mine.


+1 on this!

I also really like Hirsch, because they have a wide range of price points that i believe punch above their weight.


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## TimeWellSpent

duck2h said:


> How do you get them to maintain their shine? My shell cordovan are all full looking.


That depends on the tanning and on the wear. The strap on the Fortis flieger on the right for example is 8 years old. It used to be my daily wearer and the strap was dull and lighter colored when I bought it. I’ve given watch and strap quite a beating, taking them for swims and all. That’s why I love the material so much, it is super resistant and gets a very unique patina over time that give the watch a lot of character IMHO. Can’t do that with alligator and ostrich skin. Also, what OP might miss, is that most alligator and ostrich straps use cowhide on the inside to make the strap smoother and more comfortable to wear on the skin - not the case with Cordovan as the wearing comfort is higer. 
jeez I start to sound like a Cordovan sales person lol 😂 I promise I don’t get commission, just am genuinely convinced it’s the best option, particularly for a tool watch like the Aqua Terra.


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## TimeWellSpent

TimeWellSpent said:


> That depends on the tanning and on the wear. The strap on the Fortis flieger on the right for example is 8 years old. It used to be my daily wearer and the strap was dull and lighter colored when I bought it. I’ve given watch and strap quite a beating, taking them for swims and all. That’s why I love the material so much, it is super resistant and gets a very unique patina over time that give the watch a lot of character IMHO. Can’t do that with alligator and ostrich skin. Also, what OP might miss, is that most alligator and ostrich straps use cowhide on the inside to make the strap smoother and more comfortable to wear on the skin - not the case with Cordovan as the wearing comfort is higer.
> jeez I start to sound like a Cordovan sales person lol 😂 I promise I don’t get commission, just am genuinely convinced it’s the best option, particularly for a tool watch like the Aqua Terra.


Oh, and I forgot: Cordovan gets softer over time, whereas other leather tends to get brittle, develops cracks and breaks


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## RealUltimatePapo

Tekkamaki said:


> Okay, got me looking at Tuns Custom Straps.
> 
> What leather strap would be best for this Sinn 556 Mother of Pearl with 20mm lugs?
> -Type of leather
> -Color
> -Taper
> 
> View attachment 17080140
> 
> 
> View attachment 17080142
> 
> Was looking at this yellow
> waxy leather... Thoughts?
> View attachment 17080143


I was initially gonna recommend Tun's black stingray strap, but I could see how that might be a bit too over-the-top for most people:








Instead, I actually really like the texture of the embossed calfskin. Nice and classy, but with just enough personality (without taking away from that magnificent MOP dial)








Either way, I'm excited that multiple people have gone for Tuns Leather. They also have 20% off until the end of the 10th December through their website. Good time to try them out


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## watchman600

TimeWellSpent said:


> Since I am a Shell Cordovan fan: In this picture you only see Cordovan straps - so you get them in all shapes and colors and you can give them a sporty or rugged look or super classical. I tried pretty much every material but for daily wear this has been my default option.





TimeWellSpent said:


> I switched almost all my watches to Cordovan leather straps. They are softer and last significantly longer than regular cowhide. I found a few sellers on Etsy that provide really great quality and allow you to customize straps to your liking. If you check the seller reviews you should be on the safe side.
> The Horween company is a high quality provider, but there are also a bunch of smaller tanners, particularly in Vietnam but also other low-cost country (e.g. I got a really nice Cordovan strap from a vendor in Poland).


I like the 2 blacks on the left end and the navy blue (5th from left).
Please share which watch brands these are,
and which brands you have had excellent experiences with.
...especially since buying online from a small Esty company is "hit or miss".
---
I have 2 excellent quality Cordovan leather straps from Christpoher Ward
(with deployant clasps) that I would recommend. But they only had black and navy.
I may want a brown, tan, or reddish brown Cordovan leather strap...
that is a really high quality and well made strap. 
So, I would appreciate the help. 
Which company/seller would you recommend?
Thanks


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## dfwcowboy

Better than a Fossil? said:


> 1. Trusted brands


If I'm looking for high end, then Camille Fournet is my go to brand. There are some custom makers out there on Etsy who are doing work that's equivalent to CF. The upside to those is they tend to be cheaper, especially when it comes to customization. The down side is you really don't know what you're getting if you haven't ordered from them before, so recommendations here are helpful. My go-to Etsy shop is shut down right now since it's inside Russia, although you might be able to message him there for an order.



> 2. Cow leather vs. other types
> 3. Any downsides to ostrich?


Bovine leather generally falls into calf or cow. Either way you really want to look for full-grain leather as this is the highest quality all other things being equal and it has the properties of appearance and toughness than you want in a watch strap. Genuine leather is a meaningless term which covers a wide spectrum of leather products which range from full grain to absolute garbage.

Leather tanning generally falls into either chrome tanned leathers or vegetable tanned leathers. The former can cause skin irritation in many people and for this reason a good quality chrome tanned strap will have a vegetable tanned lining on the inside. Beware of chrome tanned straps which are unlined. Some people may tolerate them OK. I'm not one of those people.

There are many other types of leather including Shell Cordovan which is both a type of leather from a particular part of the horse hide and to some extent also a method of processing that particular leather. The Horween leather company is the most famous producer of high quality Shell Cordovan. As far as leather goes, this is arguably the toughest out there and has many properties which makes it last a very long time with minimal care. It's a good choice if you want something that looks good and will stay that way with basically no maintenance. Other types of high quality leather will last just as long and look good provided you maintain it. Personally I am not a big fan of Shell Cordovan, but some people swear by it and will have nothing but.

Outside of that you get into more exotic leathers like the ostrich you mentioned and many others. I have very little experience with them and can't say much about it. You also have exotic skins like alligator, lizard, etc which aren't leather at all, but have similar properties with their own sets of pros and cons. I do like alligator and find it can make for excellent strap material which has a number of pros like low maintenance, water resistance, look and feel.



> 4. Tricks for getting leather straps on and off watches without damage


Use a high quality tool like those offered by Bergeon. Use masking tape on the lugs. Practice on a cheap watch before you move on to more expensive ones. If you don't know what you are doing, quick change straps are your friend.



> 5. Anything else you wish you knew about leather straps before wasting time and money


When it comes to buying straps the quality of the materials used is only part of it. The quality of the craftsmanship is an even bigger consideration. Regardless of how good the material is, a poorly made strap will not last long. A well made strap can last a lifetime if cared for properly.


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## TimeWellSpent

watchman600 said:


> I like the 2 blacks on the left end and the navy blue (5th from left).
> Please share which watch brands these are,
> and which brands you have had excellent experiences with.
> ...especially since buying online from a small Esty company is "hit or miss".
> ---


The ones that you like are all Shiki Hikaku Shell Cordovan from a tannery in Japan. I can recommend the seller awristedco on eBay.

On Etsy, I recommend DNleatherhandmade out of Vietnam. They can build you straps to your liking (also with other leathers) - I even got a Cordovan strap with curved lugs from them. I also like JaroLeather.


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## Better than a Fossil?

dfwcowboy said:


> If I'm looking for high end, then Camille Fournet is my go to brand. There are some custom makers out there on Etsy who are doing work that's equivalent to CF. The upside to those is they tend to be cheaper, especially when it comes to customization. The down side is you really don't know what you're getting if you haven't ordered from them before, so recommendations here are helpful. My go-to Etsy shop is shut down right now since it's inside Russia, although you might be able to message him there for an order.
> 
> 
> 
> Bovine leather generally falls into calf or cow. Either way you really want to look for full-grain leather as this is the highest quality all other things being equal and it has the properties of appearance and toughness than you want in a watch strap. Genuine leather is a meaningless term which covers a wide spectrum of leather products which range from full grain to absolute garbage.
> 
> Leather tanning generally falls into either chrome tanned leathers or vegetable tanned leathers. The former can cause skin irritation in many people and for this reason a good quality chrome tanned strap will have a vegetable tanned lining on the inside. Beware of chrome tanned straps which are unlined. Some people may tolerate them OK. I'm not one of those people.
> 
> There are many other types of leather including Shell Cordovan which is both a type of leather from a particular part of the horse hide and to some extent also a method of processing that particular leather. The Horween leather company is the most famous producer of high quality Shell Cordovan. As far as leather goes, this is arguably the toughest out there and has many properties which makes it last a very long time with minimal care. It's a good choice if you want something that looks good and will stay that way with basically no maintenance. Other types of high quality leather will last just as long and look good provided you maintain it. Personally I am not a big fan of Shell Cordovan, but some people swear by it and will have nothing but.
> 
> Outside of that you get into more exotic leathers like the ostrich you mentioned and many others. I have very little experience with them and can't say much about it. You also have exotic skins like alligator, lizard, etc which aren't leather at all, but have similar properties with their own sets of pros and cons. I do like alligator and find it can make for excellent strap material which has a number of pros like low maintenance, water resistance, look and feel.
> 
> 
> Use a high quality tool like those offered by Bergeon. Use masking tape on the lugs. Practice on a cheap watch before you move on to more expensive ones. If you don't know what you are doing, quick change straps are your friend.
> 
> 
> When it comes to buying straps the quality of the materials used is only part of it. The quality of the craftsmanship is an even bigger consideration. Regardless of how good the material is, a poorly made strap will not last long. A well made strap can last a lifetime if cared for properly.


Wow! Thank you so much for the detailed and thoughtful response! Very helpful.


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## watchman600

@TimeWellSpent Where did you find these "Shiki" straps?
I looked on DNleatherhandmade on Etsy and they look pretty good!
$82 including shipping seems pretty good too.
Not sure where their Cordovan leather is from, or if it really matters.
These seem to be my top color picks...not sure how to choose or which to get.
I will have to write him a message to make sure that it is done with a matching thread and with a deployant stainless steel clasp.
Thanks for the help!








Shell Cordovan Leather Strap COGNAC Watch Band 14mm 16mm - Etsy


This Watch Bands & Straps item by DNleatherhandmade has 74 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Vietnam. Listed on Jan 5, 2023




www.etsy.com










Shell Cordovan Leather Strap Brown Watch Band 14mm 16mm 17mm - Etsy


Goods manufactured at DN Leather handmade - We offer good quantity at better prices - The product is 100% handmade so all your orders are made to your personal requirements, please provide me with measurements such as the length and width of your watch band for us to complete. Product finishing is




www.etsy.com










This item is unavailable - Etsy


Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewelry, and more… lots more.




www.etsy.com













Shell Cordovan Leather Strap Burgundy Color Watch Band - Etsy


This Watch Bands & Straps item by DNleatherhandmade has 13 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Vietnam. Listed on Oct 12, 2022




www.etsy.com


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## TimeWellSpent

watchman600 said:


> @TimeWellSpent Where did you find these "Shiki" straps?
> I looked on DNleatherhandmade on Etsy and they look pretty good!
> $82 including shipping seems pretty good too.
> Not sure where their Cordovan leather is from, or if it really matters.
> These seem to be my top color picks...not sure how to choose or which to get.
> I will have to write him a message to make sure that it is done with a matching thread and with a deployant stainless steel clasp.
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shell Cordovan Leather Strap COGNAC Watch Band 14mm 16mm - Etsy
> 
> 
> This Watch Bands & Straps item by DNleatherhandmade has 74 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Vietnam. Listed on Jan 5, 2023
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.etsy.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shell Cordovan Leather Strap Brown Watch Band 14mm 16mm 17mm - Etsy
> 
> 
> Goods manufactured at DN Leather handmade - We offer good quantity at better prices - The product is 100% handmade so all your orders are made to your personal requirements, please provide me with measurements such as the length and width of your watch band for us to complete. Product finishing is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.etsy.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This item is unavailable - Etsy
> 
> 
> Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewelry, and more… lots more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.etsy.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shell Cordovan Leather Strap Burgundy Color Watch Band - Etsy
> 
> 
> This Watch Bands & Straps item by DNleatherhandmade has 13 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Vietnam. Listed on Oct 12, 2022
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.etsy.com


As mentioned, the Japanese ones I got from a vendor on eBay, awristedco. Great product but expect to wait up to 3 months to get your straps.

The Etsy vendor you listed is super responsive and prices are really good. I noted however that his colors on pictures might be slightly different from the finished product. Just something to keep in mind.


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## watchman600

I just went on ebay...and honestly, these look GREAT too,
and are only $60 bucks each
and appear to be real made in the USA Horween Cordovan leather straps,
although they seem to be thinner, at 1.8mm.
Thanks so much for your help.
*[Edit: I just noticed that they are on Etsy too...
and are $70 if you want it with quick-release spring bars
(which seems worthwhile)
and they have lined ones too that are a little thicker and are about $80]








20mm Genuine HORWEEN SHELL CORDOVAN Leather Watch Band Strap Oxblood / Color #8 | eBay


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20mm Natural Tan Genuine HORWEEN SHELL CORDOVAN Leather Watch Band Strap Vintage | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 20mm Natural Tan Genuine HORWEEN SHELL CORDOVAN Leather Watch Band Strap Vintage at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



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## PuYang

I personally don't like (but don't hate) the glossy look of shell cordovan. But there ARE some strap makers that use Tumbled shell cordovan, that has a more matte and uneven surface finish. I personally haven't bought one due to price, but keep considering it 

All this talk of shell cordovan here though, makes me want to pick up a few >:|

Main things I personally look for in higher priced straps: Thickish (~3-4mm thick), with ZERO padding material (needs to be 100% leather, essentially 1.5mm - 2mm thick leather for the 2 sides). Padding material is stiffer and I assume not as durable compared to full leather.


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## harpervalley

Aaron Bespoke (Combat Straps) in Montreal - excellent, high quality straps
Terry Crafted (on IG) in Toronto - excellent, high quality straps

Excellent straps, decent prices - as others have mentioned TUNS - very quick TAT


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## bth1234

Better than a Fossil? said:


> Thanks for all of the info and the pic.
> 
> Until this thread, I didn't really understand what Cordovan was. I'm noticing I'm not seeing any "grain" finishes in Cordovan, and Cordovan appears to have a bit of gloss to it. For that style, I'll definitely keep Cordovan in mind. However, in my head for this purchase, I'm leaning towards an alligator or ostrich grain appearance. When I look for a new strap for my field watch, I think I'll go Cordovan.
> 
> Thanks, again!


I think cordovan is more dressy than sporty. It's often unlined so quite thin. It's my favourite too. I prefer the finish to an alligator pattern, even real alligator, it's long lasting and wears beautifully. I often recommend Christopher Ward cordovan straps, which are sold on a keeperless, omega type closure. Completely elegant in my opinion..


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## bth1234

TimeWellSpent said:


> Since I am a Shell Cordovan fan: In this picture you only see Cordovan straps - so you get them in all shapes and colors and you can give them a sporty or rugged look or super classical. I tried pretty much every material but for daily wear this has been my default option.


Lovely assortment. I hate creasing mine, so I generally put them on deployant closures.


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## TimeWellSpent

bth1234 said:


> Lovely assortment. I hate creasing mine, so I generally put them on deployant closures.


that is super interesting. I only have one watch on deployant clasp and I am currently looking for a regular buckle to replace it. I find the deployant clasp super uncomfortable over time - they pinch into my underarm a lot and cut off circulation after several hours (I work on a computer 10h a day). The creasing effects cowleather straps as they tend to break after a couple of years with a regular buckle, but the cordovans take the beating. 
So what do you do to make the deployant closures comfortable? Or is it just my arm size?


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## bth1234

I don't really have problems with a deployant clasp. My favourite is probably the keeperless omega type, but I am happy with one with keepers as well.

Here's a CW keeperless cordovan.


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## Time Exposure

Another shell cordovan fan here. I believe that shell cordovan tanned by Horween is the finest shell cordovan you can find. You just need to find the right artisan to make the strap. On Etsy I like CBailLeather. Chris Bale (proprietor) makes a very good product, lined with a waterproof leather (that is not cordovan) and moderately thick. The straps from Etsy seller StrapGeeks seem limited now, but earlier this year I had no trouble getting a variety of colors with contrast stitching (which I prefer). StrapGeek straps are die-cut, so customization is very limited, though I am happy with the strap. These are the thickest I have, and are lined with Zermatt (excellent water resistant lining). If you like thin straps with no lining (very comfortable), then Etsy seller Altsha provides a good strap for a good price. I returned one in a natural color that didn't seem to be cut from the same hide because of slightly different color (granted, natural and light cordovan is difficult to match). The "second chance" strap in black was perfect. The seller also informed me that some customization is possible. I like to punch my own hole so that there is only one hole, a very custom look if you have a wrist that does not fluctuate in size with heat and cold. Fluco makes a similar strap in Horween shell cordovan, thin with no lining, at a good price.

The best shell cordovan for me so far is from an independent maker (Myron) at roverhaven.com. The cordovan is Horween, and doubled back onto itself for a moderately thick strap. But making straps is not Myron's "day job." He doesn't take orders in the summer so he can spend time with his family (gotta respect that!). If he gets backlogged, he may not accept an order. Great communication, and he will customize however you like (within reason). I was concerned that the dye might transfer to the wrist, but Myron said that only happened with black shell cordovan and not other colors. So far, no dye transfer from the No. 8 color, and I wear it a lot. I hesitate to mention Rover Haven in case Myron gets too much love (referrals) and stops taking orders, but we're family here and I want to know the secret stuff myself! So, you're welcome...

Molequin uses Horween for it's shell cordovan straps, but I was disappointed with the strap I got. Their regular length strap is short, so I had to pay an extra €25 for a standard 120/80 that Molequin considers "long." There is a lot of room for the spring bar, and the strap gets unsightly rub marks from the watch unless I am very careful handling it. I thought I would like the padding on the strap but now I know I do not prefer the padding. There was just the smallest gap side-to-side at the lugs, and each strap measured slightly shorter than the requested width, and each differed from the other. I also did not clearly communicate my preference for fewer holes. Instead of centering the fewer holes, they simply didn't punch the extra holes, leaving me with a strap that was too loose. On the plus side, the leather was perfect (but credit goes to Horween for that), and the stitching was very fine. I actually prefer a more coarse/larger stitch, but the fine stitching on the Molequin was a sign of quality. Chances are I could have returned the strap for a refund, but in my disappointment (and a rare loss of patience on my part) I "modified" the strap to a state it could no longer be considered "refundable." Lesson learned.

There are a few shell cordovan threads on this forum that may provide more help if you're interested in the material. The one thing I didn't mention: I find the aroma of a Horween shell cordovan strap to be absolutely intoxicating! Like, I want to put Horween shell cordovan "scraps" in one of those sachets used for potpourri, and inhale deeply. TMI? 🤣


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## Time Exposure

After my novel above, I should note: 

I have no experience with Shinki Hokaku (Japan), Rocado (Italy), or any other tanneries that specialize in shell cordovan. I am very content with Horween shell cordovan, and have read in several resources on the Internet (so they must all be true ) that Horween has no equal. Considering the cost of shell cordovan goods, I'm inclined to stick with the Horween stuff and not bother experimenting with the other tanneries.


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## heritela

Let me tell you one thing. You can have luxurious crocodile or Shell Cordovan straps but if they are deteriorated by sweat, moisture, and dust over time then it will be a pity. So, in my opinion, the backside material is more important. And then the upper side can be customized to your need. You can check out Heritela for any customization.
Also, getting a deployant clasp instead of classic buckles will make the straps last much longer. 
Ostrich leg looks great and unique. 
Good luck!


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## RealUltimatePapo

TimeWellSpent said:


> I find the deployant clasp super uncomfortable over time - they pinch into my underarm a lot and cut off circulation after several hours


...how high up do you wear your watch, brother? Armpit level might be a bit too far up for my liking

On a more on-topic note, Tuns just shipped my custom light brown ostrich strap. I'll update with pics once it arrives. Hopefully it is as nice as others are saying they are


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## bth1234

Time Exposure said:


> There is a lot of room for the spring bar, and the strap gets unsightly rub marks from the watch unless I am very careful handling it.


^^^ This ^^^. 
Short lugs are a bane. I absolutely hated finding a beautiful cordovan strap (or any other to be honest) had been scuffed by a watch case. In this case, a Montblanc Timewalker as it happens. I bought some clear cordovan polish to try to repair it, but I will have to get black. I decided the only solution was a strap with curved spring bars, but not that easy to find. (Bremont, Raymond Weil, Formex, but all quite expensive). In the meantime I've used rubber or sailcloth which tolerate the scuffing and are much less expensive anyway. 

As an aside RW Freelancers provide 2 holes in the lugs. One will take a curved pin, and one will take a straight pin. Excellent thoughtfulness.


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## Time Exposure

bth1234 said:


> ^^^ This ^^^.
> Short lugs are a bane...


True, but my watch doesn't have short lugs. And the Molequin is the only strap from seven different makers that rubs the case. So I'm blaming Molequin completely for this miserable circumstance.


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## KingOfQueens

harpervalley said:


> Aaron Bespoke (Combat Straps) in Montreal - excellent, high quality straps


I second Aaron Bespoke as two of my current rotational watches are from them. High quality and excellent customer service.

I also have one Delugs strap in the rotation. It is also well made. Perhaps Aaron is a bit better, but when cost is part of the equation, Delugs is hard to beat.


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## Sky-Dweller

I’ve had a few Camille Fournet straps, was good quality, but the price was a bit high. Now not spending anymore so much on straps, you can have same quality for less from less known brands.


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## TimeWellSpent

RealUltimatePapo said:


> ...how high up do you wear your watch, brother? Armpit level might be a bit too far up for my liking
> 
> On a more on-topic note, Tuns just shipped my custom light brown ostrich strap. I'll update with pics once it arrives. Hopefully it is as nice as others are saying they are


That was lost in translation, correct English term is forearm it seems. Learning something new every day. But again, not a fan of deployant clasps, I find them less comfortable.


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## Ezra New York

Better than a Fossil? said:


> I'm new to watches, and trying to learn about all of the aspects. I just got an Aqua Terra and I want to put it on a high quality black leather strap, and I really don't know how to tell what I'm getting online (or in person, if I had that option).
> 
> When it comes to what is considered a high end quality leather strap, I have no idea what the good options are. Looking for input on:
> 
> 1. Trusted brands
> 2. Cow leather vs. other types
> 3. Any downsides to ostrich?
> 4. Tricks for getting leather straps on and off watches without damage
> 5. Anything else you wish you knew about leather straps before wasting time and money


You’re new to watches and you landed on an Aqua Terra? Well done!!!


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## Ofacertainage

OldSeikoFan said:


> Watch straps are an area where cost is not necessarily indicative of quality; I’ve seen expensive straps from “name” makers that weren’t particularly great, and lesser-cost straps from small artisans that were substantially better. Relying on a brand is not a good substitute for knowing what to look for.
> 
> My wife is a retired leatherworker, and through her I’ve learned a lot about what it takes to make great leather goods. The first two things I look at are the stitching and edge finishing.
> 
> The finer the thread, the smaller the needle holes, and the tighter the stitching, the more difficult it is to produce a good result. Working with fine thread and small stitches takes more craftsmanship and more time, which is why even some expensive straps will often use coarse thread and stitching. (Sometimes, of course, that can be a stylistic choice!)
> 
> Good edge finishing is harder to do than it looks; the surface has to be prepped (sanded then polished) and the edge coating applied evenly. Bad edge coating is rough and eventually peels; good coating is smooth and long-lasting. Beware the maker that won’t show you pictures of their edges.
> 
> I've settled on always going custom-made for my straps. It's no more costly and you get not just better quality, but perfect fit as well. My favorite strap maker is TUNS Leather in Vietnam (they have an Etsy shop in addition to their website). Their materials and workmanship are top notch, and their pricing is very fair considering the quality.


Have to agree on TUNS products and workmanship … first class.

I also recommend The Strap Tailor, a small artisan strap maker in Covent Garden, London, whose work is exquisite. I recently received this from him and couldn’t be more pleased or impressed:









Badalassi Wax Watch Strap - Tan Brown


French Vegetable Tanned Calfskin, hand stitched with waxed polyester threads. Develops a beautiful patina over time. Creased, burnished and sealed edges




thestraptailor.com


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## RealUltimatePapo

RealUltimatePapo said:


> Tuns just shipped my custom light brown ostrich strap. I'll update with pics once it arrives. Hopefully it is as nice as others are saying they are


...it just arrived. Full unboxing and first impressions here:









'Tuns Leather' Custom Ostrich Strap - Unboxing...


When I bought my Montblanc Star Legacy, I knew it couldn't stay on the bracelet forever. I needed a nice strap that could dress the piece down, but not too much I ended up deciding on a custom light brown ostrich strap from Tuns Leather...




www.watchuseek.com


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## metatime

The "best" "high-end" strap would IMHO probably be an artisanal, handmade custom strap. The one shown up there by The Strap Tailor is a very nice example.

Higher-end retail production straps by makers such as Camille Fournet or ABP are fantastic in their own right and I would never complain with one of their straps but they are not like a high-quality handmade strap. For the money that we would be paying for a high end retail strap, I would rather go for an artisanal custom. You'll get something that was painstakingly crafted for you. A bespoke strap will have a buckle/deployant that ends at the right spot on the underside of your wrist and the strap end should not overhang too much so it never interferes with a shirt cuff.

One thing that often distinguishes a mass produced strap from a handmade strap is the method of stitching used. Mass produced straps are machine stitched. Handmade straps are handsewn using a saddle stitch method. Using that example above shared by "Ofacertainage", it can be seen that that strap was saddle stitched. A telltale sign is from the angled thread lines that is produced by correct saddle stitching method. Of course, saddle stitch can be stitched straight as well depending on the situation but an artisan would pride themselves in creating that angled line of stitching by hand. Having said this, a lot of custom strap makers machine stitch their straps. It cuts down their production times by quite a bit and helps them fulfill orders in a timely manner but if the artisan will hand stitch a strap, that would be the ideal.

A saddle stitch method basically creates two lines of thread that pass through the piece on both sides, weaving together a very strong bond. It can even be knotted between each stitch so that every stitch is individually secure. And if one thread is broken, the piece will still be held together by the other thread. Machine stitching on the other hand presents as a straight line stitch. Two strands are also used but the strands never actually pass through to the other side of the piece. Instead the two threads interlink holding each other together, hiding within the perforation points. Consequently, when the stitch is broken, pulling on one thread would cause the entire stitch to unravel. There are pros and cons of machine stitching vs saddle stitching but it won't be disputed that a saddle stitch is a more secure stitch. One thing though with a machine stitch is that it can be done with different colour threads on the top and bottom (since they are separate threads that never pass across to the other side.

Other than that, there is the factor of material choices for a strap. Exotic skins (the genuine stuff and not embossed leather) can be very costly because of the select areas matched for use. The scale patterns need to match up and run in the same direction. There are also ethical controls on the production and exportation of exotic skins so they can be rather limited and costly to obtain. Other than that, the good leathers often come from an Italian or old world tanneries. Again, these are not cheap leathers. The choice of leather should depend on the watch itself and the aesthetic we are trying to achieve - especially if we are going to follow the "pretentious, overly snobbish, old fashioned" rules!

For the lining or underside of the strap, high-end straps are usually produced with Zermatt calfskin. Zermatt calfskin is prized for its ability to withstand moisture while being hypoallergenic and scratch resistant. It feels comfortable against the skin and it does not patina throughout use. It is arguably the superior lining which discerning strap makers often select.

Inside the strap itself, in addition to any padding if used, high-end straps often include an anti-stretch interlining/reinforcement. This helps the strap retain its shape and last. High end straps would usually use something called "Velodon" or its equivalent. You would probably never be able to tell if this stuff is there unless you take a strap apart but you would know it isn't there when a strap stretches and goes off kilter.

These are just some of the more discerning material choices for high value straps so you know what to look out for./ask for. Be as it may, straps don't last forever - they are not meant to - and we tend to build up a strap collection over time. Just use whatever strap, there is no be all, end all strap. They are meant to be a wear and tear consumable part of watch wear? Sometimes the best things in life just don't last forever.


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## Better than a Fossil?

metatime said:


> The "best" "high-end" strap would IMHO probably be an artisanal, handmade custom strap. The one shown up there by The Strap Tailor is a very nice example.
> 
> Higher-end retail production straps by makers such as Camille Fournet or ABP are fantastic in their own right and I would never complain with one of their straps but they are not like a high-quality handmade strap. For the money that we would be paying for a high end retail strap, I would rather go for an artisanal custom. You'll get something that was painstakingly crafted for you. A bespoke strap will have a buckle/deployant that ends at the right spot on the underside of your wrist and the strap end should not overhang too much so it never interferes with a shirt cuff.
> 
> One thing that often distinguishes a mass produced strap from a handmade strap is the method of stitching used. Mass produced straps are machine stitched. Handmade straps are handsewn using a saddle stitch method. Using that example above shared by "Ofacertainage", it can be seen that that strap was saddle stitched. A telltale sign is from the angled thread lines that is produced by correct saddle stitching method. Of course, saddle stitch can be stitched straight as well depending on the situation but an artisan would pride themselves in creating that angled line of stitching by hand. Having said this, a lot of custom strap makers machine stitch their straps. It cuts down their production times by quite a bit and helps them fulfill orders in a timely manner but if the artisan will hand stitch a strap, that would be the ideal.
> 
> A saddle stitch method basically creates two lines of thread that pass through the piece on both sides, weaving together a very strong bond. It can even knotted between each stitch so that every stitch is individually secure. And if one thread is broken, the piece will still be held together by the other thread. Machine stitching on the other hand presents as a straight line stitch. Two strands are also used but the strands never actually pass through to the other side of the piece. Instead the two threads interlink holding each other together, hiding within the perforation points. Consequently, when the stitch is broken, pulling on one thread would cause the entire stitch to unravel. There are pros and cons of machine stitching vs saddle stitching but it won't be disputed that a saddle stitch is a more secure stitch. One thing though with a machine stitch is that it can be done with different colour threads on the top and bottom (since they are separate threads that never pass across to the other side.
> 
> Other than that, there is the factor of material choices for a strap. Exotic skins (the genuine stuff and not embossed leather) can be very costly because of the select areas matched for use. The scale patterns need to match up and run in the same direction. There are also ethical controls on the production and exportation of exotic skins so they can be rather limited and costly to obtain. Other than that, the good leathers often come from an Italian or old world tanneries. Again, these are not cheap leathers. The choice of leather should depend on the watch itself and the aesthetic we are trying to achieve - especially if we are going to follow the "pretentious, overly snobbish, old fashioned" rules!
> 
> For the lining or underside of the strap, high-end straps are usually produced with Zermatt calfskin. Zermatt calfskin is prized for its ability to withstand moisture while being hypoallergenic and scratch resistant. It feels comfortable against the skin and it does not patina throughout use. It is arguably the superior lining which discerning strap makers often select.
> 
> Inside the strap itself, in addition to any padding if used, high-end straps often include an anti-stretch interlining/reinforcement. This helps the strap retain its shape and last. High end straps would usually use something called "Velodon" or its equivalent. You would probably never be able to tell if this stuff is there unless you take a strap apart but you would know it isn't there when a strap stretches and goes off kilter.
> 
> These are just some of the more discerning material choices for high value straps so you know what to look out for./ask for. Be as it may, straps don't last forever - they are not meant to - and we tend to build up a strap collection over time. Just use whatever strap, there is no be all end all strap. They are meant to be a wear and tear consumable part of watch wear? Sometimes the best things in life just dnt last forever.


Interesting. Thank you for the info/thoughts. I'm enjoying my bracelet for now, but will definitely end up getting a strap.


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## PeterToronto

metatime said:


> The "best" "high-end" strap would IMHO probably be an artisanal, handmade custom strap. The one shown up there by The Strap Tailor is a very nice example.
> 
> Higher-end retail production straps by makers such as Camille Fournet or ABP are fantastic in their own right and I would never complain with one of their straps but they are not like a high-quality handmade strap. For the money that we would be paying for a high end retail strap, I would rather go for an artisanal custom. You'll get something that was painstakingly crafted for you. A bespoke strap will have a buckle/deployant that ends at the right spot on the underside of your wrist and the strap end should not overhang too much so it never interferes with a shirt cuff.
> 
> One thing that often distinguishes a mass produced strap from a handmade strap is the method of stitching used. Mass produced straps are machine stitched. Handmade straps are handsewn using a saddle stitch method. Using that example above shared by "Ofacertainage", it can be seen that that strap was saddle stitched. A telltale sign is from the angled thread lines that is produced by correct saddle stitching method. Of course, saddle stitch can be stitched straight as well depending on the situation but an artisan would pride themselves in creating that angled line of stitching by hand. Having said this, a lot of custom strap makers machine stitch their straps. It cuts down their production times by quite a bit and helps them fulfill orders in a timely manner but if the artisan will hand stitch a strap, that would be the ideal.
> 
> A saddle stitch method basically creates two lines of thread that pass through the piece on both sides, weaving together a very strong bond. It can even knotted between each stitch so that every stitch is individually secure. And if one thread is broken, the piece will still be held together by the other thread. Machine stitching on the other hand presents as a straight line stitch. Two strands are also used but the strands never actually pass through to the other side of the piece. Instead the two threads interlink holding each other together, hiding within the perforation points. Consequently, when the stitch is broken, pulling on one thread would cause the entire stitch to unravel. There are pros and cons of machine stitching vs saddle stitching but it won't be disputed that a saddle stitch is a more secure stitch. One thing though with a machine stitch is that it can be done with different colour threads on the top and bottom (since they are separate threads that never pass across to the other side.
> 
> Other than that, there is the factor of material choices for a strap. Exotic skins (the genuine stuff and not embossed leather) can be very costly because of the select areas matched for use. The scale patterns need to match up and run in the same direction. There are also ethical controls on the production and exportation of exotic skins so they can be rather limited and costly to obtain. Other than that, the good leathers often come from an Italian or old world tanneries. Again, these are not cheap leathers. The choice of leather should depend on the watch itself and the aesthetic we are trying to achieve - especially if we are going to follow the "pretentious, overly snobbish, old fashioned" rules!
> 
> For the lining or underside of the strap, high-end straps are usually produced with Zermatt calfskin. Zermatt calfskin is prized for its ability to withstand moisture while being hypoallergenic and scratch resistant. It feels comfortable against the skin and it does not patina throughout use. It is arguably the superior lining which discerning strap makers often select.
> 
> Inside the strap itself, in addition to any padding if used, high-end straps often include an anti-stretch interlining/reinforcement. This helps the strap retain its shape and last. High end straps would usually use something called "Velodon" or its equivalent. You would probably never be able to tell if this stuff is there unless you take a strap apart but you would know it isn't there when a strap stretches and goes off kilter.
> 
> These are just some of the more discerning material choices for high value straps so you know what to look out for./ask for. Be as it may, straps don't last forever - they are not meant to - and we tend to build up a strap collection over time. Just use whatever strap, there is no be all end all strap. They are meant to be a wear and tear consumable part of watch wear? Sometimes the best things in life just dnt last forever.


This should be used as a reference. Thank you for your many insights here. I appreciate it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Munkie Magik

The best I have come across in terms of quality to price are the straps made by Jayson at Artisan Straps in Sydney, AUS. 

I have about 10 of them now. They are superb quality. All fully handmade and saddle stitched (hand stitched). All lined with Zermatt leather (accept no alternatives for lining on leather straps). He works with all sorts of leathers and textures and will customise straps too.

The workmanship from Artisan Straps is second to none. I handled straps from the likes of Jean Rousseau and Camille Fournet. They are very nice straps but I would venture to say that (1) they are not price/quality competitive with a few of the artisans working out there (Artisan Straps, Strap Tailor etc.), and (2) the work done by Artisan Straps is on a par if not better. And at about one third of the price of JR or CF (especially if you get a strap or two in the occasional clearance sale).

Some of the Vietnamese strap makers on Etsy and eBay also offer good value for money (I’ve purchased from a few of them and the straps are good). But the refinement of the workmanship from Artisan Straps is on another level. 

Absolutely no connection to Artisan Straps other than being hugely impressed with the quality of straps for the price. I’ve been a repeat customer since my first purchase and I honestly wouldn’t really look anywhere else for now as the quality is top notch and the price is hard to beat (AS pricing is better than the pricing from the likes of the Strap Tailor (also making awesome straps that I would recommend)).


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