# 3D printed watch build with ETA 2824 movement



## tmr5555

Hi all, I'm an industrial designer & about a year ago begun designing my own watch from scratch.
The idea was to have the case 3D printed with laser sintering technology and exploit the ability to construct hollow/skeletonized and undercut parts. This was done by emptying out the central part of the lugs, so the lugs are effectively formed from four 1.2 mm bars instead of being a solid chunk of metal. As far as i know now not many technologies allow such parts to be made. I'm actually surprised the watch industry isn't already employing 3D printing.
The skeletonizing concept carries on to the case sides and bezel. 
Another nice thing about 3D printing technology is that the parts can be ready for use with minimal machining input such as lathes, etc later on, providing the part is well engineered of course :-D
An example would be the ratcheting bezel teeth which i unfortunately did not picture for this thread. The bezel could be simply printed with them built in therefore eliminating expensive CNC lathing later on.

Here's the process:

This was one of the first conceptual drawings and some stuff was still to be figured out:









Then the month long CAD process started, i used solidworks, Engineers use it to design planes so its safe to say a watch case wasn't much of a problem!:









Once the model was finished verification drawings were made and everything was double/triple checked:









Then the CAD data (cloud of dots) was sent of to a company in Belgium, one month onwards the parts were in my hand:










I started sourcing supporting stuff like drill bits (many bit the dust), hole tappers, rotary cutters, watch parts, gasket rubber...










The case was strapped on to a drill press to make the lug holes and crown hole, i had luckily planned pilot holes into the part, that saved me a lot of hassle and time:










The gasket was cut by hand and sanded down, the case was also mildly sanded, i sort of like the semi rough patina it has due to the manufacture technique it reminds me of old Panerais:










Then the dial which was made by acid etching Aluminium got lumed with a Bergeon kit. I must say i was hoping for stronger lume brightness but anyways...
The crown stem was also cut down to size and locktited :










Final result, the pics (taken on an iPhone, ahem) don't really do justice:





































Watch specs:

Case & caseback: Stainless steel 420 & Bronze infusion
Bezel: Titanium, ratcheting (Bezel spring courtesy of a Vostok Amphibia!)
Dial: Aluminium (acid etched and painted with black model paint and green Bergeon lume)
Rear gasket: hand cut
Case screws: M3 INOX
Movement: ETA 2824-1
Strap: 22 mm "plopprof" (from timefactors)
Hands: Coffin style with C3 lume (from 10watches)
Plexi: 1.2 mm Acrylic domed.

Watch dimetions:

Bezel diameter: 40mm
Lug to lug: 48mm
Height: 16-18mm

Comments are very welcome!


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## Bergarn

Looks really nice handywork!

I've heard that 3d-printed metal is more frail than cnc-milled, is that a worry with your intricate lug design? Or it will never see that kind of stress for it to be considered?


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## WnS

Quite novel and intricate. You're realising the potential of 3D printing, that's for sure.


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## fatehbajwa

Impressive.


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## tmr5555

Bergarn said:


> Looks really nice handywork!
> 
> I've heard that 3d-printed metal is more frail than cnc-milled, is that a worry with your intricate lug design? Or it will never see that kind of stress for it to be considered?


The fragility would probably be important if this was a high stress engine part, but with day to day loads it will surely last longer than me :-D
The object is printed from 420SS (normally watches use 316SS wich is softer than 420SS) with a bronze infusion and is actually a terror to drill, i've heard of marine impellers being made by 3d printing, so i'd say the fragility is a little exaggerated. Many broken titanium and HSS drill bits are nodding from the bin.


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## watchma

How much (ball park) are we talking for this one-off ?

I like the caseback.

In a way I like the rough finish to the front, but wonder if post-machining could help make it sharper? - just the bevel bezel maybe as a contrast surface , like they do combining polished and brushed on some watches?....


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## tmr5555

Without calculating the man hours and effort, the 3 metal parts (case, caseback,bezel) cost 150 euros excluding VAT and handling fees.
I know what you mean about the finish, the case could be surely sandblasted for a satin finish but the titanium bezel couldn't because of the detailing. But if some detail was omitted it too could be sanded down for a satin finish. 
I might blast the case when i get a little bored...


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## TheCeladon

3D printing is catching on. I've been experimenting myself. This is a G-Shock case that I printed. It's an original design that I made using Sketchup. It's printed in plastic. I spray painted it in silver. It has a cast metal look. Costs about $6 to print in this type of plastic. I could have printed it in stainless steel but at this point I'm still experimenting.

View attachment 985445
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View attachment 985448


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## tmr5555

I've seen that G-shock project around, good stuff, endless possibilities!


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## cooperj

This is very cool... I happen across this post after watching a short video about a case designer and a movment designer.

I found it highly interesting all the steps in design process and the CAD program used. I am not sure if it is the same you use.

This combined with the 3D printing tech is very cool... 

All the best.


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## NSG1Tausend

Wow impressive , both you guys have me stoked! 
Thanks for posting your projects.
Regards
Robt


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## workaholic_ro

A Linde Werdelin Spidolite with lugs ? Sorry, I would expect more from an industrial designer.
View attachment 986042


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## watchma




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## tmr5555

workaholic_ro said:


> Sorry, I would expect more from an industrial designer.


Sorry, i'd expect more from a comment.
Take your negativity elsewhere.


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## Shiftster

tmr5555 said:


> Sorry, i'd expect more from a comment.
> Take your negativity elsewhere.


+1

after you design and build your own watch you can criticize.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2


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## workaholic_ro

My apologies, sir. You should have specified after "Comments are very welcome!", "especially the positive comments" or "excepting the negative comments" to prevent people like me being confused and posting an honest reply.



tmr5555 said:


> Sorry, i'd expect more from a comment.
> Take your negativity elsewhere.


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## tmr5555

Your criticism would be very welcome, but you are not criticizing you are just trolling the thread and accusing of plagiarization.
Who are you to expect more or less? 
Did Linde Werdelin steal their dial design from the big ben?








Is compartmentalized watch dials unique to them?

Did they steal their bezel design from Vostok?









Why do thousands of watch designs use the oyster case?

Your comments are out of line. Maybe its because English isn't your first language.
You don't like it, fine, this isn't a place for accusations or snarly sideways remarks.
I posted this project here because maybe some like minded people would like to see what is possible to make with 3d printing technology these days, the look is actually not even that important.


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## Eeeb

Back to the point of the thread.... are there any methods of 'filling in the holes'? Would a thick plating and subsequent polishing work?


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## tmr5555

Seems the only way to get rid of them is to give the parts a good sanding, or bead blasting.


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## tribe125

Looks great to me, and looks as original as you can expect of any design, especially of watches. There's only so many ways to make things...

Ignore any intended or unintended slights and press on. :-!


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## leroytwohawks

Looks like a workable design, as someone else pointed out I think the case finishing could be improved some. But my biggest issue is that rubber strap your using, with a watch design like you've made it demands a nice leather strap not a dive watch strap. I can only assume you where trying to match the slots designed into the case but the case itself is in a high end stylish look. Over all good work, just change that strap.


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## workaholic_ro

Eeeb said:


> Back to the point of the thread.... are there any methods of 'filling in the holes'? Would a thick plating and subsequent polishing work?


Post processing of 3D printed materials is almost impossible or very difficult. 3D printing is good for rapid prototyping, but the time when a 3D printed part can be used as a final product has not come yet.
The quality of the prints needs to be significantly improved to match the geometry and the mechanical properties of a machined part. After I had finished the DWP design, Keith Boschetti sent me a polyamide printed model of the watch to confirm some details, which presents a far better geometric accuracy and surface finish compared to this one and there is still room for better. And, AFAIK, that was the best from what the market was offering at that moment. Since then I had the opportunity to "play" with other varius 3D printed parts, some of them made by very expensive equipment. Same conclusion, that moment has not come yet.


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## tmr5555

@leroytwohawks: The watch was designed with the ploprof in mind but you make a fair point. What would you suggest? Perhaps a black crocodile Hirsch or a distressed gunny?


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## leroytwohawks

I think a a distressed gunny or even something in the lines of a PAM style strap. Even though you say "The watch was designed with the ploprof in mind." The watch is not made in any stretch of the imagination in a dive watch style from what I see, which is what the ploprof strap is made for.


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## leroytwohawks

I'm working on a watch with a vintage PAM inspired case and a custom dial of my own design but I know it will belong on a thick leather vintage PAM style strap.

My dial options 
View attachment 988850


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## tmr5555

What aspects would you say make it "not in the style of" a divers watch?
Could it be considered a sports/ casual watch then? (such as dare i say a royal oak or nautilus)
How would you classify it? I'd like to hear opinions.

It reminds me a little of vintage bronze diver, but sorta updated, maybe.

Ps: are you over at HF? I think i saw something similar there.


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## leroytwohawks

tmr5555 said:


> What aspects would you say make it "not in the style of" a divers watch?
> Could it be considered a sports/ casual watch then? (such as dare i say a royal oak or nautilus)
> How would you classify it? I'd like to hear opinions.
> 
> It reminds me a little of vintage bronze diver, but sorta updated, maybe.
> 
> Ps: are you over at HF? I think i saw something similar there.


First yes I am over on HF so I'm sure it was mine you saw. Now on your watch to me it just looks to be more of a dress/fashion styling with both the case and dial design to it over dive functionality of it. Don't get me wrong I'm not trying to put down your design just that you've hit more of the fashion style than the dive style I guess you where going for. I like the style ether way just not your choice of strap.;-)


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## tmr5555

No worries man, just trying to figure stuff out, good luck with your project!


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## bhiney

This is awesome, I am an ID student myself and I have been wanting to do this for a while. I haven't 3D printed anything in SS so it's great to see what I can expect. It seems like there are some great possibilities for incorporating the printed texture in your design. I will have to get started on my own project this has been great inspiration!


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## wizard0

naice watch. like the 3d printed fabrication. I think this surface finish gives it a naice desert military look


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## tmr5555

Thanks Wizard, kinda tempted to sand blast it though.


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## wizard0

Yeah mabey it's somewhat better. A finer grain. You should check beadblasting out that seems to be quit popular with watch cases. Perhaps you already heard of it


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## slikmetalfab

I like what you have done. I have also been 3D printing watch cases. There are "good" DMLS processes that make tight tolerance parts that can be finished polished. It's all in who you choose to print your geometry. Shapeways and Imaterialise are becoming the Kmart of the printing world.


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## tmr5555

Are there any companies that can deliver better results at prices that won't break the bank? Do tell.


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## JPOP007

Hello,
can you explain the process you used to make the aluminium etched dial?

cheers,
JP


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## slikmetalfab

Tmr5555,
Sent you a PM


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## Guest

tmr5555 said:


> (...)


Hi Tmr,

Nice and original method for your project. Though I'm not a fan of the whole design, I like the way you made it real in the end.
BTW, where did you buy the crown ?


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## tmr5555

The crown came out of a parts bin, no idea where it came from.
It's basically a 8mm screwdown crown.


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## YamTEKK

I saw this on the i.materialise blog, it's very nice! Out of interest, is there any reason you've chosen steel for one part and titanium for the other?


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## DEPA

Nice job tmr. 3d printing might be a new way to make protos. yours definitely looks like a steampunk style of watch. so it can easily live with non accurate lines and surface finishes. you will for sure encourage many of the forumers to follow your steps


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## tmr5555

Titanium has a higher degree of accuracy, it wasn't possible to print the bezel details with the stainless steel material. İt's not visible but the bezel also has very tiny ratcheting teeth on the bottom.
Also wanted to see what the material would look like. The titanium bezel also makes the watch slightly lighter.


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## neatlittlefellow

Hi,

Could you tell me which company you used in Belgium?

Kind regards,
Peter


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## tmr5555

i.materialise


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## neatlittlefellow

Great!

Thanks
bedankt & merci


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## bilingham

I am very late to this party, but I want to comment on your project. Just fantastic. I am making a watch using subtractive methods: lathe, milling machine, etc. It makes me wonder how a printed part would respond to machining. Can you tell if the surface texture is just a few thousands thick or does it go deeper?


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## tmr5555

Hi, i've been watching your thread quite enthusiastically too!
Some stuff happened to the project since the last post. Firstly i polished the bezel (titanium) to a polished look and no stepping is left.
Secondly while trying to brush finish the case on a rotary sander, the part was thrusted outta my gloves (those stupid thick gloves you wear for protection) and shot all the way across the workshop. Thankfully no one was hurt, one lug however being skeletonized broke off.
I managed to have it welded back on with laser welding at a jeweller for the equal of $5. I then also had the case sandblasted for a more aesthetic finish and it certainly helped, no stepping remains. Unfortunately i have no up to date photos because i'm on vacation.


By surface texture , if you mean solidity the parts are solid inside too, but i'm guessing since they use bronze infusion to bring the parts out of green state (at that point they're just metal dust held together by "glue" ) i'm guessing the outside will be slightly harder and the material would probably be a little porous under a microscope.

The technology is used in aeronautics and they probably don't just get the part out of the printer and slap if on, i guess a minimal amount of machining has to be done to assure holes are properly round, tapping most certainly has to be done post printing because the printing technology just isn't precise enough yet.

The stainless steel at i.materialise is equal to 420 HSS, and pretty hard to drill, we had to use titanium ended drillbits under oil cooling and had to resharpen the bit every other minute.

I'd say if would be possible to machine, you could always ask support engineers over at their forum, but they tend to play it safe.
I would just go ahead and order a part from them and have a go, then post the results here )


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## James Haury

THE RESULT IS AMAZING! TheCELADON the link does not work.Can you amend it so that it functions?


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## dant.kz

Hello!

Awesome job, and nice design! Very impressive!

A few questions: 
1. Why did you have to drill holes for lugs and crown? Couldn't you just specify holes in the CAD file?
2. Where did you get acrylic? From other watch, or ordered somewhere else?
3. In the end, the case (with lugs), caseback and dial were 3D printed, everything else (bezel, strap, gasket, hands, crown) were borrowed from other watches? Which material do you think looks bad/cheap/unimpressive/dull: steel with bronze or aluminium? What would you change if you could?

Thanks!


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## tmr5555

1. The 3d printing technology isn't precise enough for accurate holes, so it's necessary to allow for shrinkage. So pilot holes can be put in the CAD file but not the actual holes.

2. Any watch part seller stocks a huge amount of crystals, they can be found online at ofrei, cousins, esslinger to name a few.

3. The gaskets were hand cut from silicone sheets, The bezel was printed, the bezel ring was borrowed from a Vostok Amphibia, Hands and crown from watch part suppliers.
The best material is titanium because it polishes nicely and is light. But 10 its also times more expensive than printing in regular steel.
The regular steel is VERY HARD and difficult to machine, also contains bronze so is yellowish in tint and results in a different patina. I don't like the stainless steel material but titanium costs too much.

What would i change? Everything. I'd use M1.8 screws instead of M3, design the case with lower tolerances, and do my own dial. 
This was the first attempt, the second will be better.


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## dant.kz

tmr5555 said:


> 1. The 3d printing technology isn't precise enough for accurate holes, so it's necessary to allow for shrinkage. So pilot holes can be put in the CAD file but not the actual holes.
> 
> 2. Any watch part seller stocks a huge amount of crystals, they can be found online at ofrei, cousins, esslinger to name a few.
> 
> 3. The gaskets were hand cut from silicone sheets, The bezel was printed, the bezel ring was borrowed from a Vostok Amphibia, Hands and crown from watch part suppliers.
> The best material is titanium because it polishes nicely and is light. But 10 its also times more expensive than printing in regular steel.
> The regular steel is VERY HARD and difficult to machine, also contains bronze so is yellowish in tint and results in a different patina. I don't like the stainless steel material but titanium costs too much.
> 
> What would i change? Everything. I'd use M1.8 screws instead of M3, design the case with lower tolerances, and do my own dial.
> This was the first attempt, the second will be better.


Thanks for the prompt reply!

For lower tolerances, how are you going to predict the shrinkage?

What exactly do you mean by "do my own dial"? Isn't your dial 3D printed already?


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## Charles_R

Really cool idea and great use of new technology. It will be interesting to see how 3D printing changes a lot of industries, I'm sure the watch industry will also be effected.


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## Alan_F

Needs to be on a Gunny canvas verte strap. The distressed canvas will match the aesthetics of the case perfectly. 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## Moondiver

That is indeed a great example of what can be done in 3D. Your CAD knowledge giving you an extra miles on a lot of normal wannabe designers (I am jealous) LOL

Hope to see more creation from you because the beginning is wonderful.



TheCeladon said:


> 3D printing is catching on. I've been experimenting myself. This is a G-Shock case that I printed. It's an original design that I made using Sketchup. It's printed in plastic. I spray painted it in silver. It has a cast metal look. Costs about $6 to print in this type of plastic. I could have printed it in stainless steel but at this point I'm still experimenting.
> 
> View attachment 985445
> View attachment 985446
> View attachment 985447
> View attachment 985448


Could you revive the link?

Thx


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## cxk216

Amazing!


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## daangoumans

What 3d software did you use?

I'm currently trying to design a watch myself. I got some drawings on paper now but I want to create a good 3d model first to make sure it looks alright. 
After printing in plastic and adding a cheap quartz movement I'll try to go with metal/mechanical movement and maybe a see through case back.

Your post motivates me to continue with my project!


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## tmr5555

Solidworks


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## kidcisco

Pretty cool. Technically it's not 'printing' though. Direct to metal machines (SLS or selective laser sintering) use a laser to fuse metal powder together but it is additive like printing. If anyone in the US is looking for a place to outsource something like this then check out shapeways.com or if you need a mockup printed in resin I could do it for you for cheap (i have a printer). Interesting none the less to see where rapid manufacturing is taking things these days.


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## tmr5555

Using the term "3d printing" to keep things simple.


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