# My first watch project. Bronze+stainless case.



## INTERIMLAMB

Hello everyone.

I began my small workshop "INTERIMLAMB" to build original watch.
This is prototype of 1st model "IDLER"-single hand watch.
I am making case,crown,hand and dial. With mini-lathe and mill. No CNC.

Case is made from stainless-steel and bronze.
Diameter is 40mm (bezel is 40.5mm). Lug to lug is 50mm.
Thickness is 11mm.
Width of lug is 20mm.
Glasses are sapphire.
Movement is ETA2824-2 Open-balance virsion. It has no calender function, so you need only one crown-pulling to set time.

I like the color and texture of bronze.
Sorry for my poor English.
Thanks.


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## DEPA

Nice watch. Congratulations


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## Drop of a Hat

Not gonna lie, that thing is badass.

"He's just a witness"


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## James Haury

The one hand is because it's a weekend watch? Exact time is not important?Sort of a laid back vibe. Will you be doing a California dial?


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## INTERIMLAMB

Yes, this is a watch giving the unclear reading. However, We can supplement the fuzziness with sense of sight and mathematical judgement. But it is unsuitable for a business scene I guess... I would not change the design of the dial.


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## Somewhere else

Where in Japan are you? I'm in Tokyo.

What type of lathe are you using?


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## INTERIMLAMB

Somewhere else said:


> Where in Japan are you? I'm in Tokyo.
> 
> What type of lathe are you using?


I live in Yamaguchi. Is there no damage of heavy rain in Tokyo?
My lathe is cheap and compact. Difficult to cut stainless-steel...but I do in some way.









This is new crown.


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## The Guvnah

View attachment 1628315


Yes! including anything that could possibly be conceptually linked to the word yes.

It seems we share a common aesthetic Interimlamb. It reflects exactly the same attributes I'm intending to project onto my own little project.



INTERIMLAMB said:


> No CNC.


Exactly that; it is so openly and honestly 'hewn from the billet'. One can never get bored of perusing the endless images of jaw dropping guilloche and brain achingly complex pan-dimensional tourbilloned masterpieces but your watch takes a different and equally worthy route to beauty. in fact if I had CNC access I'd _still_ make something that tried to reproduce that "I'm hand turned and don't you forget it" look.

I'm guessing that's a 3 part case with the spring bar lugs as separate screw fixed pieces? Any idea of its water resistance?



INTERIMLAMB said:


> I like the color and texture of bronze.


Hoh yes; whats _not_ to like? When this bad boy starts to properly patinate you really must post up some additional pics, we'll re-visit this thread in say 2 years. 



INTERIMLAMB said:


> Sorry for my poor English.
> Thanks.


No apologies req'd, the watch does the talking fellah. :-! If I may throw in an observation, I'd probably work up the hand design a little to offset that rigorously triangular form but that's just me. Some sort of piercing maybe? And I've got to ask before someone else does, what's the derivation of the name Interimlamb?

Guv.


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## The Guvnah

Forgot to ask, are those spring bar release pushers I'm looking at?


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## The Guvnah

INTERIMLAMB said:


> I live in Yamaguchi. Is there no damage of heavy rain in Tokyo?
> My lathe is cheap and compact. Difficult to cut stainless-steel...but I do in some way.
> 
> View attachment 1629573


And then this thread got even better as the tool fetishists pile in and prepare their popcorn for the action shots!



INTERIMLAMB said:


> This is new crown.
> View attachment 1629576


Nicely done. Screw down perhaps?


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## Q Lai

This is actually pretty darn impressive dude. Quick question; if it's open balance (same thing as open heart, right?), why don't you open up the dial to show the balance wheel?

I know that's pretty superficial to some but by digging a hole you can bump up the price by quite a bit.


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## INTERIMLAMB

The Guvnah said:


> Forgot to ask, are those spring bar release pushers I'm looking at?


It is just a pin drilled a hole for spring bar.
I used this pin with the proto, but I will change it to screwed lug bar.


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## INTERIMLAMB

The Guvnah said:


> View attachment 1628315
> 
> 
> Yes! including anything that could possibly be conceptually linked to the word yes.
> 
> It seems we share a common aesthetic Interimlamb. It reflects exactly the same attributes I'm intending to project onto my own little project.
> 
> Exactly that; it is so openly and honestly 'hewn from the billet'. One can never get bored of perusing the endless images of jaw dropping guilloche and brain achingly complex pan-dimensional tourbilloned masterpieces but your watch takes a different and equally worthy route to beauty. in fact if I had CNC access I'd _still_ make something that tried to reproduce that "I'm hand turned and don't you forget it" look.
> 
> I'm guessing that's a 3 part case with the spring bar lugs as separate screw fixed pieces? Any idea of its water resistance?
> 
> Hoh yes; whats _not_ to like? When this bad boy starts to properly patinate you really must post up some additional pics, we'll re-visit this thread in say 2 years.
> 
> No apologies req'd, the watch does the talking fellah. :-! If I may throw in an observation, I'd probably work up the hand design a little to offset that rigorously triangular form but that's just me. Some sort of piercing maybe? And I've got to ask before someone else does, what's the derivation of the name Interimlamb?
> 
> Guv.


I thank for your reply and read it with interest.
Are you making your original watch now?

My brand name means a person in the middle of the life.
It is an idea that a person(=lamb) growing up in between(=interim) the birth and the death.
And it expresses the concept of my work at the same time.
In a sense I want to embody by a noncommittal design.
I imagine the scene somebody wear my watch is talked "it is a slightly strange watch" from his friend or a person of the neighboring seat.
I hope that my poor English is understood.

P.S. According to the guess, lugs are separate from main case. It is fixed to the main case with two screws, but the screw holes does not penetrate.
The bezel , case back and the crown has gasket each, but is daily waterproofing specifications.


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## INTERIMLAMB

I made new case back...add 0.3mm thickness.


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## The Guvnah

INTERIMLAMB said:


> I thank for your reply and read it with interest.
> Are you making your original watch now?


Indeed I am;
https://www.watchuseek.com/f77/fear-not-lathe-lets-make-some-swarf-guys-1037016.html?highlight=



INTERIMLAMB said:


> My brand name means a person in the middle of the life.
> It is an idea that a person(=lamb) growing up in between(=interim) the birth and the death.
> And it expresses the concept of my work at the same time.
> In a sense I want to embody by a noncommittal design.


Existentialism as expressed through the medium of horology, this thread has _everything!_ And it makes one wonder; what for instance would a company like De Bethune or Romaine Jerome produce given such a design brief?

I asked because to a western conception it seemed a curious and almost semi-surreal juxtaposition of the two words 'interim' and 'lamb'. Even now that you've explained it it still sounds slightly "odd" and I mean no disrespect by that. I can't say I've ever conceived of myself as any kind of lamb, quite the reverse usually. :-d Fascinating stuff though. Is that a cultural idiom that the 'average Japanese in the street' would recognise?



INTERIMLAMB said:


> I imagine the scene somebody wear my watch is talked "it is a slightly strange watch" from his friend or a person of the neighboring seat.
> I hope that my poor English is understood.


And if in turn that friend found out who made it and asked you, would you make him one too or are these to be strictly one-offs?



INTERIMLAMB said:


> P.S. According to the guess, lugs are separate from main case. It is fixed to the main case with two screws, but the screw holes does not penetrate.


So no case penerations to seal. I looked at fabricating seperate lugs tapped into the case for mine but as the body is of aluminium I was uncertain as to whether the threading would be strong enough to withstand the pull of a straining watch strap. Yours is tapping into solid bronze which would give much greater confidence in that regard. Hence the switch to swinging lugs to better resist that direction of pull.

View attachment 1631470


Could look at that all day. :roll: Just what is this hypnotic allure exuded by tightly machined brushed bronze?


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## INTERIMLAMB

Q Lai said:


> This is actually pretty darn impressive dude. Quick question; if it's open balance (same thing as open heart, right?), why don't you open up the dial to show the balance wheel?
> 
> I know that's pretty superficial to some but by digging a hole you can bump up the price by quite a bit.


Hi.
Yes, I consider your opinion is true.
But I do not like it very much simply.
I think that it is only a pretense as you point it out.
Thanks.


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## DDimitrov

Hi INTERIMLAMB,

Congratulations for the work and skills !!! I've always found the combination of bronze and steel very fascinating. The idea of one hand I like a lot, especially in the context of the simple design. If you do decide to paint the dial brown will really go with the strap. Also I like the detachable lugs because you can change them with others, if you want to change the design. For my taste, they are quite raw. I allowed myself to edit your picture, I do not want to accept it for insolence, but only an idea how it stood with different lugs.

Regards,
Dimitar


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## kendalw3

Looks great! I love the watch, and everything you have said about how and why you made it that way. Truly amazing!


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## frpedersen7

Looks a bit chunky to me, not exactly a big fan of the fact that there is only 1 hand.. But with some small modifications it can definately be a bad ass watch  

Congratulations on your first work though


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## INTERIMLAMB

The Guvnah said:


> Indeed I am;
> https://www.watchuseek.com/f77/fear-not-lathe-lets-make-some-swarf-guys-1037016.html?highlight=
> 
> Existentialism as expressed through the medium of horology, this thread has _everything!_ And it makes one wonder; what for instance would a company like De Bethune or Romaine Jerome produce given such a design brief?
> 
> I asked because to a western conception it seemed a curious and almost semi-surreal juxtaposition of the two words 'interim' and 'lamb'. Even now that you've explained it it still sounds slightly "odd" and I mean no disrespect by that. I can't say I've ever conceived of myself as any kind of lamb, quite the reverse usually. :-d Fascinating stuff though. Is that a cultural idiom that the 'average Japanese in the street' would recognise?
> 
> And if in turn that friend found out who made it and asked you, would you make him one too or are these to be strictly one-offs?
> 
> So no case penerations to seal. I looked at fabricating seperate lugs tapped into the case for mine but as the body is of aluminium I was uncertain as to whether the threading would be strong enough to withstand the pull of a straining watch strap. Yours is tapping into solid bronze which would give much greater confidence in that regard. Hence the switch to swinging lugs to better resist that direction of pull.
> 
> View attachment 1631470
> 
> 
> Could look at that all day. :roll: Just what is this hypnotic allure exuded by tightly machined brushed bronze?


Hi.

I read the thread of your watch making project. Very nice sporty watch. To think about design and structure of the lugs gives you many problems, doesn't it? Because these are problems to be related to beauty of the looks and comfortableness on the wrist, I guess.
I think that the idea of the movable lug is wonderful. It will fit a wrist easily.

"INTERIM"+"LAMB"---I can understand the reason of your saying 'odd'. I use "lamb" according to my very personal sense. The meaning that I put in those two words may be a Japanese-like idea. But the choice of "lamb" is not average for Japanese. "Lamb" will not be a word with the friendly feeling for many Japanese people.


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## INTERIMLAMB

DDimitrov said:


> Hi INTERIMLAMB,
> 
> Congratulations for the work and skills !!! I've always found the combination of bronze and steel very fascinating. The idea of one hand I like a lot, especially in the context of the simple design. If you do decide to paint the dial brown will really go with the strap. Also I like the detachable lugs because you can change them with others, if you want to change the design. For my taste, they are quite raw. I allowed myself to edit your picture, I do not want to accept it for insolence, but only an idea how it stood with different lugs.
> 
> Regards,
> Dimitar


Hello Dimitar.

Thank you for taking time for the processing of the images. I think that it is surely attractive that rags can be changed. 
But the 3D work processing such as in your photo is difficult with my restrictive equipment.
In fact, my immediate early design plan was the following image.







It is not a refined like your image, but they may be similar.
If I have time, I will try the different design.
Thanks!


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## INTERIMLAMB

I tried to make new hands...taken from 0.4mm thick carbon steel plate.
Hand of proto was made by blass.

Sureface is hairlined and side is polished.









Then tempered to be colored. Brown-steel and blue gray-steel I made.















Actually, it will be brown to be easy to recognize. However, the blue-gray gives a more
mechanical and cool impression. That color changes from silver to black by the angle of the reflection.
Thanks.


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## DDimitrov

Great job with those hands INTERIMLAMB !!! 
I like the color of both and the finish. You did a very good job with the coloring, because it has completely evenly. 
I know that is only one hand but isn't it too thick ? However, I like it

Dimitar


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## INTERIMLAMB

DDimitrov said:


> Great job with those hands INTERIMLAMB !!!
> I like the color of both and the finish. You did a very good job with the coloring, because it has completely evenly.
> I know that is only one hand but isn't it too thick ? However, I like it
> 
> Dimitar


Hi.
Thank your glad post.
The polised blass hand of proto is 0.8mm thick...I know it is too thick. 
Then I decide to use 0.4mm plate because it is needed a certain measure of chamfering.
I want to express the contrast of those two parts-polish and hairline.
Thanks.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Cutting bronze case.


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## MarkDaniels

very nice work and a great looking watch, congrats dude


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## INTERIMLAMB

Today I am making stainless bezel. Tough metal. Hard to cut.








I must cut a part to fit crystal.


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## INTERIMLAMB

All things have become the product in the present age.
The fashion is directed.
The choices continue increasing, but the most of the product which we find there are uniform.
Whether I chose it or was it forced?
I want to live in the small solitary island apart from the very large continent of the mass marketing.
Galapagos is unique.

I will make the watch which everybody does not want.
Let's produce a primitive compound with simplicity than a complicated chemosynthetic material.
The thing which it is simple, but has you use it habitually with attachment for a long time.


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## INTERIMLAMB

I made two bronze cases. 
They must be drilled and tapped many time.
Raw copper color is beautiful.
Their surface will be coated with patina...


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## The Guvnah

Nice one! reflections on the passing of time









:-!



INTERIMLAMB said:


> Raw copper color is beautiful.
> Their surface will be coated with patina...
> 
> View attachment 1646001


It is indeed captivating, either in the raw and fresh from the machine or with 200 years of patination upon it.


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## INTERIMLAMB

I finished two stainless bezels today.
Because diameter of crystals to use is 34mm, I made the space for them with 33.97-8mm in diameter.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Good morning.
I do a continuance of the work of the case back now.
Chamfering and hairline processing are still left.









Omake...some of my antique watches.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Here the two case backs.
Lathe work for case back is done.
Diameter is 39mm and crystal size is 27mm.
Then I must mill six holes for screws.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Movement holders.
Their material is extra super duralumin ANB79.
It is aluminium alloy, but the strength is high.


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## The Guvnah

Aaaah; I can smell the swarf from here I-Lamb, keep the pics coming.


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## INTERIMLAMB

The Guvnah said:


> Aaaah; I can smell the swarf from here I-Lamb, keep the pics coming.


Hi Guv.
Your project seems to go surely, too. Let's both do our best.

I processed tapping to the cases today.
I prepared the screw holes of M1 .6 to fix lugs.
I used a spiral tap before, but they were easy to be broken.
Now I use the jet tap.

Checking parallel line by laser pointer.








Prep for drilling...








Hand tapping slowly...








Depth is OK!








Finished.


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## The Guvnah

INTERIMLAMB said:


> Hi Guv. Let's both do our best.


I know no other way. ;-)



INTERIMLAMB said:


> Now I use the jet tap.


_JET_ tap? Not heard that phrase before. By this do you mean a tap with straight flutes/swarf channels?

I can only dream of laser pointers Lamb, my edge/centre finding technique revolves around using a carbide 'reference' bar of exactly 10.00mm diameter (OK it's an old ballnosed cutter!) in the chuck, moving it in till it touches the work as indicated by it gripping a sliver of very thin cigarette paper and then winding in by 5mm as indicated by a dial gauge. Very low tech.


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## INTERIMLAMB

The Guvnah said:


> I know no other way. ;-)
> 
> _JET_ tap? Not heard that phrase before. By this do you mean a tap with straight flutes/swarf channels?
> 
> I can only dream of laser pointers Lamb, my edge/centre finding technique revolves around using a carbide 'reference' bar of exactly 10.00mm diameter (OK it's an old ballnosed cutter!) in the chuck, moving it in till it touches the work as indicated by it gripping a sliver of very thin cigarette paper and then winding in by 5mm as indicated by a dial gauge. Very low tech.


The jet tap is another name of the point tap. Is the name used only in Japan?
The point tap has a small resistance of the cutting, and strength is high.

Because, in fact, the precision of the laser finder is not so good, I use the laser for only confirmation of the parallelism.
I usually use the mechanical edge finder for the decision of a correct position.

Now I am milling the lugs from bronze ring.
This work takes much time...:-(


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## TheWatchLover

Thanks for sharing, awesome pics! Please keep us up to date!


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## DDimitrov

Hi INTERIMLAMB,

It's good to see progress with the project. Very nice pictures you've done, especially with this retro falloff.


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## INTERIMLAMB

TheWatchLover said:


> Thanks for sharing, awesome pics! Please keep us up to date!





DDimitrov said:


> Hi INTERIMLAMB,
> 
> It's good to see progress with the project. Very nice pictures you've done, especially with this retro falloff.


Hi TheWatchLover and Dimi.
I thank for your checking.
At last I cut out a one pair of the lugs.






























Moreover, I must make cut and drilling...(-_-


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## The Guvnah

DDimitrov said:


> ... especially with this retro falloff.


Works for me too...









I-Lamb, can you get four lugs out of that one ring of bronze?


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## INTERIMLAMB

The Guvnah said:


> I-Lamb, can you get four lugs out of that one ring of bronze?
> 
> View attachment 1656887


No,only two lugs.
It lacks width. It is slightly a waste of materials, but can process it based on the same anchoring point without changing work. Simple and correct.


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## INTERIMLAMB

A continuance of making of the lugs.
I cut both sides of the lug at an angle 4 degrees.
















After that I grind a hand filature with an endmill of 2.5mm.








Then drill 1.8mm hole to let a bar go through.








I look such.


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## Ajax_Drakos

That, sir, is one hell of a nice watch. 

I have to give you credit, too, for a very original design. That thing doesn't look like an homage to anything.


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## dplace

Did you make the crown by yourself?


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## RocketHurricane

That is a very handsome watch and you have impressive machining skills. I have a very similar mini-lathe and mini-mill setup to yours, so you are inspiring me to try a case of my own. 

My question for you is how you have made your dial. I would love to see some photos and descriptions of that process. I think I have the machining skills to make a case, but a professional looking dial seems to be a different set of skills. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## INTERIMLAMB

Ajax_Drakos said:


> That, sir, is one hell of a nice watch.
> 
> I have to give you credit, too, for a very original design. That thing doesn't look like an homage to anything.


I am really glad to have you praise my watch.
It is right the core of the concept of my watch that you said.
Thanks!


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## INTERIMLAMB

dplace said:


> Did you make the crown by yourself?


Yes, I am making the crown by myself.　
It is made up of two parts.
I tried it in various ways about the ditch.
It was finally decided to 7.5mm in diameter, number of ditches seven, 0.3mm in depth.
I make it using a rotary table and a starting drill of tip corner 120 degrees.
Thank you.


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## The Guvnah

For some reason pics only showing as attachment hyperlinks?

"Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"


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## INTERIMLAMB

RocketHurricane said:


> That is a very handsome watch and you have impressive machining skills. I have a very similar mini-lathe and mini-mill setup to yours, so you are inspiring me to try a case of my own.
> 
> My question for you is how you have made your dial. I would love to see some photos and descriptions of that process. I think I have the machining skills to make a case, but a professional looking dial seems to be a different set of skills.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi RocketHurricane.
Sorry. the dials has been already finished,and there is not the photo of the process...









Please look at below photograph, my dial does not have feet.









Two hollows of top and bottom falls into the projections of the movement holder and becomes unable to drag.
This is because it allows you to access the area of the keyless work without opening case back and removing a crown.

There is a gap of approximately 0.05mm between a clockface and the holders. It is slightly controlled when I press-fit a bezel and does not work.
I wanted to use power to occur structurally naturally. It is important that it is easy to maintain it and is concise.









The materials are brass boards of the 0.8mm thickness.
At first I make a central hole and two hollows on the mill, then cut the diameter with a jig on the lathe.
I spray two-liquid urethane paint.

It may be the part which you want to know most, but I do not have the skill of the pad printing. I do not have the printing machine either.
Therefore I leave it to a printer. They use metal plate and twice pushing to ensure thickness of ink.
I hope this help you.


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## dplace

Realy good job! Can you make some crowns for me?


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## INTERIMLAMB

dplace said:


> Realy good job! Can you make some crowns for me?


Now I don't have time to make them newly, sorry. But if you want, I will give some crowns which were rejected.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Continuance of making lugs.

Will process the thickness.















Cut at 60 degrees. The backside is over.















To the opposite side. It will be cut at 45 degrees.








The cutting work of the lugs is completed here.


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## dplace

INTERIMLAMB said:


> Now I don't have time to make them newly, sorry. But if you want, I will give some crowns which were rejected.


I need a few crowns with my design but cant find who can make it. If you have time ill pay you.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Hi.
It has been a while.
I will remake the steel hand.
I changed the thickness from 0.4mm to 0.8mm and some shapes.

At first I cut out this from a steel plate board. Already drilled a hole.








I perform chamfering with a file after fixing the outline.








Chamfering is finished.








Then I will polish a chamfering part. The beginning is like this.








I smooth the surface using the sandpaper #800-2000.








Then a mirror challenges polishing it.
I polish it with diamond paste #3000 and #8000 using tin and peg wood.
Because I did not have a tin stick, I dissolved a solder.








I attach paste to tin and move it by light power for one hour.
Furthermore, I polished it well in peg wood for another one hour. 








It took a little over four hours by all steps...:-(


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## INTERIMLAMB

Continuance of making hand...
This is processing of the part of the hairline.

Completely remove a surface roughness with sandpaper.








I give a hairline with paper of #320-600.
It is hard to understand it with this photograph.








I temper it on a thin copperplate. Heat until it becomes the blue-gray.








The left made it before. Is the right more high-quality?








I attach the fitting-ring(?) for fittings to the hand's hole.








Tap-tap by using stacking-tool.








The completion.








I attach a shaft for single hands to hour wheel.






















It is the good finish.


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## DDimitrov

Well, It's really impressive. 
You did a great job on this project. I'll look forward to the next one. A hands have become great. BRAVO !!! 
Where you print the dial? What material did you use for hands bushing?

Dimitar


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## The Guvnah

This is marvellous work I.L. It's my contentment simply to observe the work in progress.


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## INTERIMLAMB

DDimitrov said:


> Well, It's really impressive.
> You did a great job on this project. I'll look forward to the next one. A hands have become great. BRAVO !!!
> Where you print the dial? What material did you use for hands bushing?
> 
> Dimitar


I made hands bushing from brass. It is adjustable easily. 
Dial print is requested to Japanese printing company with the results of the pad printing.
I think that the layer dial which you make is really splendid. Delicate cutting line is beautiful.
Thanks.:-d


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## INTERIMLAMB

Drilling and tapping to case and case back. Tap size is M1.4.
Must be working in silence...









Case back...








Making counter sink with 2.5mm endmill.








Finished like this.


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## INTERIMLAMB

The crown is comprised of two parts.
I made one of those today.








Screw-ｔap M0.9 for stem.








I put a cut of 0.65 millimeters in width. A micro-gasket is settled there.


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## Sean779

Beautiful and strange--to the uninitiated--skill you have. Enjoying your thread very much.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Sean779 said:


> Beautiful and strange--to the uninitiated--skill you have. Enjoying your thread very much.


Hi Sean779.
Thank you for your responding my thread.
This watchmaking will be in last chapter soon.
Please look forward to the completion.

I added hairline to the lugs by handwork today.

Rubbed with #320 sandpaper.















Then with #600 paper.








Chamfered the edge by filing.


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## taramuh

WOW! You really doing an outstanding job from ground up!So impressive! I just wonder if that would be a one off project or you planning to do some more pieces for sale?That would be some pretty unique watch.


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## Sean779

taramuh said:


> WOW! You really doing an outstanding job from ground up!So impressive! I just wonder if that would be a one off project or you planning to do some more pieces for sale?That would be some pretty unique watch.


Ain't that the truth!


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## DDimitrov

Аgain perfect!!


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## INTERIMLAMB

Most parts were finished.
I will assemble them after having made some small parts.











taramuh said:


> WOW! You really doing an outstanding job from ground up!So impressive! I just wonder if that would be a one off project or you planning to do some more pieces for sale?That would be some pretty unique watch.





Sean779 said:


> Ain't that the truth!


I can receive orders from everybody.
However, I do not have certain idea of price range. I don't want to set wrong price.
So I want to hear the opinion of everybody about an appropriate price to my watch.
When this watch is completed, I intend to post some detailed photos.
If you please, propose it after seeing them.

Thank you.


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## Sean779

INTERIMLAMB said:


> I can receive orders from everybody.
> However, I do not have certain idea of price range. I don't want to set wrong price.
> So I want to hear the opinion of everybody about an appropriate price to my watch.
> When this watch is completed, I intend to post some detailed photos.
> If you please, propose it after seeing them.
> 
> Thank you.


You're doing something very few have done. Add your labor hours. I think you'll do well. I certainly wish that for you.


----------



## ParsonsArcher

Great Work! cant wait to see the final piece


----------



## Scott S

INTERIMLAMB said:


> I can receive orders from everybody.
> However, I do not have certain idea of price range. I don't want to set wrong price.
> So I want to hear the opinion of everybody about an appropriate price to my watch.
> When this watch is completed, I intend to post some detailed photos.
> If you please, propose it after seeing them.
> 
> Thank you.


I am aware of only a couple of watchmakers in the world who basically make a watch from scratch (using off the shelf movements of course). Kaventsmann and Manu Propria come to mind, I believe Vintage VDB and Germano and Walter also do some basically one-offs.
Their prices range from around $2K to much more...I think they are very reasonable for their exclusivity. When you show your final product, also give us an estimate into the labor times, as well as material costs, to give a good price range.


----------



## INTERIMLAMB

I am at assembly work.

Sapphire glass fitting.
Not only pressing but also using UV adhesive(SEIKO S-314).






















Case back is in same way.















Adjusting the length of stem.








Remain gap is about 0.2mm.








Closing case back with M1.4 screws and gasket.






















Front side.








Steel hand with brass bushing.








Press down the bezel to main case.






















Fit the lugs with M1.6 screws (with LOCTITE).















1.8mm screw bar for strap.








Now this is completed!











































What kind of the strap suit my watch?








I would like to say THANK YOU to everyone who encouraged me.
I guess that this watchmaking takes about two weeks.
I am going to post many photos in another day.


----------



## Medusa

It is we who thank you , Sir


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## Sean779

Medusa said:


> It is we who thank you , Sir


+1, just gorgeous.


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## Scott S

Stunning!


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## The Guvnah

INTERIMLAMB said:


> Now this is completed!
> View attachment 1877642


Now it is sublime 



INTERIMLAMB said:


> What kind of the strap suit my watch?
> View attachment 1877690


Of the two I would go with the dark brown.

I feel inexplicably churlish saying this but I'd venture one observation if I may; to _my eye_ the crown is a tad over-sized and dominant to the point that it is detracting from the ethos of the case. It looks like any other generic dive watch crown and this watch needs and deserves something more cohesive and consistent with the overall look. Maybe even flushed into the case? I think the crown should take its design cues directly from the case. Steel with a knurled sleeve of bronze incorporated perhaps. I can also spot a few milling/machine marks in the flutes of the crown that need polishing out. But forget all that, this watch really is pushing all my buttons simultaneously! An object of desire indeed.


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## Sean779

The Guvnah said:


> Now it is sublime
> 
> Of the two I would go with the dark brown.
> 
> I feel inexplicably churlish saying this but I'd venture one observation if I may; to _my eye_ the crown is a tad over-sized and dominant to the point that it is detracting from the ethos of the case. It looks like any other generic dive watch crown and this watch needs and deserves something more cohesive and consistent with the overall look. Maybe even flushed into the case? I think the crown should take its design cues directly from the case. Steel with a knurled sleeve of bronze incorporated perhaps. I can also spot a few milling/machine marks in the flutes of the crown that need polishing out. But forget all that, this watch really is pushing all my buttons simultaneously! An object of desire indeed.


I disagree. Just another opinion. If the watch weren't encased in a rectangular platform then yes I believe the crown might be a bit large. To me the large crown balances out the watch on its large rectangular platform.


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## INTERIMLAMB

I took some pictures in the open.
Today is slightly cloudy and suitable for taking picture.





























My wrist size is mere 15cm...































































































The Guvnah said:


> I feel inexplicably churlish saying this but I'd venture one observation if I may; to _my eye_ the crown is a tad over-sized and dominant to the point that it is detracting from the ethos of the case. It looks like any other generic dive watch crown and this watch needs and deserves something more cohesive and consistent with the overall look. Maybe even flushed into the case? I think the crown should take its design cues directly from the case. Steel with a knurled sleeve of bronze incorporated perhaps. I can also spot a few milling/machine marks in the flutes of the crown that need polishing out. But forget all that, this watch really is pushing all my buttons simultaneously! An object of desire indeed.


I thank your opinion about crown. 
Exactly I designed it larger than normal size. Because of easy operation and total size balance.



Sean779 said:


> I disagree. Just another opinion. If the watch weren't encased in a rectangular platform then yes I believe the crown might be a bit large. To me the large crown balances out the watch on its large rectangular platform.


What Sean779 said is precisely what I want to say about total balance.
But your indication about the flutes is right.
I will smooth it from the next product.

It will make me happy that there is a pro and con.
I think that it means you are considering my watch as one real product.

Thank you.


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## ParsonsArcher

Amazing Watch! Congratulations! How did you print your dial??


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## DDimitrov

Superb design and craftsmanship !!! Also magnificent photos !
I became a fan of you !!!

Dimitar


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## Sean779

Your work has created a following. I couldn't be happier for you.


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## Scott S

I have one suggestion that would just add to your piece's awesomeness.
Since you're obviously capable, how about milling up a unique bronze buckle to go with the strap, something kind of squarish and mechanical looking?


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## INTERIMLAMB

ParsonsArcher said:


> Amazing Watch! Congratulations! How did you print your dial??


Hi and thank you.
I don't have printing skill and machine. Dial print is requested to Japanese printing company with the results of the pad printing.
I want to do pad-printing by myself someday.


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## INTERIMLAMB

DDimitrov said:


> Superb design and craftsmanship !!! Also magnificent photos !
> I became a fan of you !!!
> 
> Dimitar





Sean779 said:


> Your work has created a following. I couldn't be happier for you.





Scott S said:


> I have one suggestion that would just add to your piece's awesomeness.
> Since you're obviously capable, how about milling up a unique bronze buckle to go with the strap, something kind of squarish and mechanical looking?


Thank you everyone. Delightful comments.
Scott's idea of bronze buckle is very nice, I think. But that designing and making will take much time. I will try in the near future.
I have an image of combination bronze and stainless like the case.　Squarish and mechanical looking...that's great!


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## Sean779

INTERIMLAMB said:


> I have an image of combination bronze and stainless like the case.


That would be wonderful, the finishing touch.


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## INTERIMLAMB

I made the another version of lug.
The band width is the same 20mm. I changed the cut of both sides.
The person who has small wrist (like me) may look good with this.


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## INTERIMLAMB

I attached new lugs.
As I thought, it gives slim impression.
You may choose either.


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## Sean779

INTERIMLAMB said:


> I attached new lugs.
> As I thought, it gives slim impression.
> You may choose either.
> 
> View attachment 1981834
> 
> View attachment 1981842
> 
> View attachment 1981850
> 
> View attachment 1981858


The slim lugs look wonderful, but with slim lugs you might need a smaller crown.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Sean779 said:


> The slim lugs look wonderful, but with slim lugs you might need a smaller crown.


OK, will test smaller one. And I may change the angle of inclination of the bezel a little.

Because a new M1 tap does not arrive, work does not advance.








Test making a second hand. Maybe I'll make punch by DIY.


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## INTERIMLAMB

At last M1.0 tap arraived.
I made screw hole to fix movement holder to main case.























I changed the number of screws of the case back from 6 to 5 for securing of clearance of the screw holes.


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## Blak Smyth

Awesome work, awesome thread!


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## INTERIMLAMB

I made smaller crown. It may match small lug one.
Thanks to Sean779.


> Originally Posted by *Sean779*
> _The slim lugs look wonderful, but with slim lugs you might need a smaller crown._


















At milling machine. 















Back to the lathe and cut off.








I cannot yet attach it.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Why picture uploading is denied??


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## jsj11

Man, that is plain awesome! I am so impressed by your skills, I think there are not enough craftsmen in the world anymore, who can undertake this type of project. Well done. Btw, the lighter brown strap looks the best IMO.


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## Magura

Nice project you've got going there.

A suggestion for the next set of crowns.
Machine the recesses on the lathe before you mill the splines.
That will give you a much nicer surface of the recesses, and a lot less post machining work.

Magura


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## INTERIMLAMB

I am working on the review of some parts now.
I revise the shape of the hand.
The present wedge-shape hand is feeling too concise in the center of this watch.
I am making new hand with inspiration from Japanese ancient polished stone sword.









Burnishing a part chamfered. I made the burnisher from broken carbide end-mill.








Not yet polished.








Burnished. Can you see the difference?








With new brass bushing.








Adding hair-line texture on surface by whetstone.















After this I smoothed the surface a bit with #1000 sandpaper.
And last I tempered this until the color changed to blue-gray.


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## The Guvnah

+1 for the Lambster! Lovely stuff as ever.


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## Baguette

INTERIMLAMB said:


> I am working on the review of some parts now.
> I revise the shape of the hand.
> The present wedge-shape hand is feeling too concise in the center of this watch.
> I am making new hand with inspiration from Japanese ancient polished stone sword.
> 
> View attachment 2203970
> 
> 
> Burnishing a part chamfered. I made the burnisher from broken carbide end-mill.
> View attachment 2203986
> 
> 
> Not yet polished.
> View attachment 2204010
> 
> 
> Burnished. Can you see the difference?
> View attachment 2204018
> 
> 
> With new brass bushing.
> View attachment 2204026
> 
> 
> Adding hair-line texture on surface by whetstone.
> View attachment 2204034
> 
> View attachment 2204050
> 
> 
> After this I smoothed the surface a bit with #1000 sandpaper.
> And last I tempered this until the color changed to blue-gray.
> View attachment 2204058


Awesome blued hands. Those look sharp! Quite literally and figuratively haha pun intended.


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## ParsonsArcher

Looking great!


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## DDimitrov

Absolutely stunning work!! 

Dimitar


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## INTERIMLAMB

Hi everyone.

This is a sample of a version for sale.

Single-hand watch "IDLER"

Case is made from stainless-steel and bronze.

Case diameter is 40mm
Bezel diameter is 40.5mm
Lug to lug is 50mm
Thickness is 11mm
Band width is 20mm
Mat black dial
Glasses are sapphire
Movement is ETA2824-2 Open-balance version
Bezel , caseback and crown have a gasket each
Brown calf strap

*PRICE:1,750USD + worldwide shipping cost 20USD
*
I can accept 8  *7* 6 5 4 3 2 1 orders only
50 % deposit by Paypal, only, at time of order. Balance due 
on 'Ready to ship' notice in 4 to 6 weeks.
One Year Warranty.

A red colored number shows remaining pieces I can accept. 



*If you have any interest, please contact me.*

Of course you can choose 'large lug and crown' version.
Price is the same.


Specifications are subject to change without announce.
Thank you!

P.S. I'm afraid to say, I gave up making original strap buckle. It needs time too much than expected. I want to challenge at some other time.

Please see below photos.
































































































































Old and new comparison. 
Hand and crown. Angle of inclination of the bezel was changed from 70° to 66°.






　

Thank you again


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## JohnQFord

Obviously this is a Limited Edition. How many will be produced in total ?


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## Vonthone

Congratulations, Nice watch !


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## INTERIMLAMB

JohnQFord said:


> Obviously this is a Limited Edition. How many will be produced in total ?


Hi.
I can make last seven pieces only. First one is sold. 
This is very small number production.
Thank you!


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## Arie Kabaalstra

I noticed that i don't look enough in this section of the forum... 

You've done some very nice work, I like the design and the materials.. also your attention to details is stunning.. 
the later version of the lugs is a big improvement!.. i really like the rounded shape..

I use CNC equipment to make most of my parts, but.. i made my CNC machines myself... wasn't satisfied with machines that were for sale.. 
Stainless steel is indeed a tough nut to crack.. hard to machine.. i prefer titanium instead.. 

If you can get your hands on some titanium, why don't you go for a bronze/titanium watch?.. take Grade 5 Titanium (TiAl6V4) it is slightly harder than Grade 2, and is easier to polish..

Keep up the Good Work!..


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## Choke

Thanks for sharing this very cool work in progress with us all. As a burgeoning machinist, I found it quite interesting and inspirational. I wish it was in my current budget to grab one. Keep up the good work! Cheers.


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## INTERIMLAMB

Arie Kabaalstra said:


> I noticed that i don't look enough in this section of the forum...
> 
> You've done some very nice work, I like the design and the materials.. also your attention to details is stunning..
> the later version of the lugs is a big improvement!.. i really like the rounded shape..
> 
> I use CNC equipment to make most of my parts, but.. i made my CNC machines myself... wasn't satisfied with machines that were for sale..
> Stainless steel is indeed a tough nut to crack.. hard to machine.. i prefer titanium instead..
> 
> If you can get your hands on some titanium, why don't you go for a bronze/titanium watch?.. take Grade 5 Titanium (TiAl6V4) it is slightly harder than Grade 2, and is easier to polish..
> 
> Keep up the Good Work!..


Hi. I don't know about titanium very much. Is it easier to cut than stainless steel? I have interest in treating it for the material of sport watch.
When I make diver watch and so on, I would consider using titanium. But I worried about if I can get Grade 5...Thank you.


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## Arie Kabaalstra

About Titanium:

i'm a toolmaker by profession, and i've machined a lot of materials in my life, through the years i sort of made my "top ten list of machineable materials", you know, just the materials you like to machine..

For me, Low Carbon steels are at the #1 position, easy to machine with about every tool.. Toolsteels are on the #2 spot. slightly harder to machine, bit still manageable with the right tools.. then come the copper alloys, like brass and bronze.. easy to machine, but what a mess it makes with the fine chips.. , then there's Titanium.. Aluminium. Cast Iron.., and on the end of the list. stainless steel.. 
I hate machining Stainless steel.. i think stainless steel is for cooking equippement, and exhaustpipes.. 

Titanium is a tough material.. Grade 2 is less hard, but because of that harder to machine than Grade 5.. Titanium is also quite hard.. well.. as far as machining goes.. shallow cuts, low cuttingspeeds, with relatively high feeds work fine.. 
For instance when i'm milling titanium, feeds up to 500mm/min with a 2 mm endmill @10.000Rpm are no exception.. lubrication and cooling, if used..: Lamp oil.. cheap, and it works fine..

as far as machinery goes.. :










i have this small, cheap chinese lathe..only a 150 Watt motor... and, the ring that sits in the chuck, is a titanium watchcase..
After turning.. i milled out the caseshape...










and my milling maching is a small machine too..










I built this machine myself.. it may be small, but it is really accurate..
Yes.. i do use CNC machines.. i also have 2 Emco Compact 5 CNC lathes, one is fitted with a new CNC control..the other will be converted soon..
I'm a beta-tester for the develloper of this CNC controler..


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## chronomancer

I just read through this entire thing, couldn't "put it down"! So interesting; you are a very skilled person. I was curious if you had difficulty acquiring the ETA movements? Also, did you consider engraving or even creating your own, rotor? It is truly a lovely piece of functional art. Thanks for sharing!


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## INTERIMLAMB

I thank for information about titanium.
It was a preconception, but I had an impression to be hard to process titanium than stainless steel.
I use a cheap lathe and milling machine made in China. It is two years after I began machining. I was not interested in titanium very much so far.
However, I read your post and became interested very much.
Strong,light,good workability and easy to polish...attractive character. In addition, lamp oil is effective!
If I can get grade 5 and want to try titanium at an opportunity to make a proper model.



Arie Kabaalstra said:


> and my milling maching is a small machine too..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built this machine myself.. it may be small, but it is really accurate..
> Yes.. i do use CNC machines.. i also have 2 Emco Compact 5 CNC lathes, one is fitted with a new CNC control..the other will be converted soon..
> I'm a beta-tester for the develloper of this CNC controler..


You made it! It is work of a splendid professional. Beyond my imagination...! I was really impressed to see your clock and photograph of CNC. The watch made by your titanium is like a beautiful shell. It had a sharp line, but makes me feel slightly nostalgic and warmth at the same time.
Thank you!


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## Arie Kabaalstra

Thanks for the compliments!

I am a "professional" now, because i'm starting my own company., another start-up company asked me if i could make cases for him, and because of that, i bought a CNC lathe.

this lathe is also a small one.. an Emco Compact 5 CNC, these machines were originally meant for education, we had one at school, 25 years ago, yes, my lathe is that old.. 
I changed the CNC control to a modern one, but the machine is still the same.. running daily at the moment, "spitting out" Titanium Cases.. after turning, i machine the outer shape of the case on the CNC mill..

to make a case like this.. it can be done on a manual operated lathe and milling machine... but.. it is very hard, and takes a lot of time... CNC is so much quicker.










and my customer needed 10, in the first batch.. (that's alreadt some batches ago:-d)

the only thing that is difficult is drilling in titanium, and also tapping threads.. use very sharp drills, and good quality taps.. and drill the hole slightly bigger..that would work..
This watchcase has a press-fit caseback, but i can also make screw-in casebacks.. i just mill the threads on the CNC mill..

For your watch.. come and think of it.. Tapping isn't even the problem.. all the threads are in the bronze part of the case.. so if you can find some titanium (Grade 5,or TiAl6V4) just give it a go.. as you saw, my manual lathe is also a cheap chinese machine, and my CNC lathe.. well










also a small one..

Polishing Grade 5 Titanium is "quite easy".. just start by sanding it with 400 grit, then 800, 1200, 2000, 3000, and finally polishingwax on a buffing wheel..
For sanding, i use wooden sticks where i stick on strips of sandpaper with doublesided adhesive tape.. thus creating some sort of file.. (you could also get those nail-polishers they use in nail parlors, you could buy these at any drugstore..)


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## INTERIMLAMB

Arie Kabaalstra said:


>


Wow! It is truly beautiful and perfect work! Polished titanium like this seems to suit to even dress watches. Cutting of side of case by manual operation needs many many time and physical energy. Once I tried it, but I was exhausted absolutely. What is worse, after that operation, many hand-working were needed to develop smooth case side lines.
I say thank you for your practical information of tapping and polishing. They would be useful to other situations too. 
Thank you again.:-d


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## Sean779

Isn't the internet wonderful?


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## Arie Kabaalstra

When Polished, Titanium is very well suited for dress watches.. and when partially polished and brushed or machined.. it suits a toolwatch too..










i wrote a program for the CNC to mill the sunburst pattern on the case.. just a move down and outward, starting just beside the crystal-seat., i just calculated new coordinates for every pass of the tool..rotation in the XY Plane.. not too hard to program..


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## INTERIMLAMB

spin off


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## Arie Kabaalstra

ah.. i see you are making appliqué indexes?.. Nice... i've been thinking about that too.. but i didn't have time to do it sofar... 

I wonder how it will look once applied.. please post pictures as soon as you put them on the dial..


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## haggis basher

Great looking watch I was looking for a jump hour but when I saw this one I had to order one. It so cool that it is limited I will never see anybody else near me that has one.


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## INTERIMLAMB

This is trial manufacture of the upright index. 
The material is steel and brass. 
These indexes are too big... I want to finish them a little more elegantly.


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## Magura

Have you thought about making tools to be able to use your CNC mill for the finishing?
That would be an easy way to avoid the imperfections and rounded corners.

Magura


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## Arie Kabaalstra

I'd try a sunburst finish on the dial.. Ok.. i really love sunburst dials.. all my watches have that..

the indexes, they may be i bit too large for your taste.. but i think they realy look great.. i never tried that.. thats' still on the "let's try that once" list...

However..










i made this a while ago.. the indexes are titanium, the dial is Aluminium.. what i did was, Mill a Titanium Dial of 1mm thick, to 0.3, but leave the indexes on.. zo they are now 0.7 mm high.., then i milled a 0.3 mm aluminium dial with holes for the indexes.. that's also how i got the "frame" in the date window.. the window in the aluminium dial is just a bit bigger..

the Indexes protude 0.4 mm through the dial.. i applied sunburst and a clear blue laquer..


----------



## haggis basher

Thank you very much kenkichi I love my watch It fits my 7 1/2 inch wrist great. Anybody thinking of buying one get on board before there all gone. thanks willie


----------



## INTERIMLAMB

haggis basher said:


> Thank you very much kenkichi I love my watch It fits my 7 1/2 inch wrist great. Anybody thinking of buying one get on board before there all gone. thanks willie


I thank you for your purchace very much! I am very grad that you liked it!
Wrist shots from Willie.















Thanks again!


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## INTERIMLAMB

I made this IDLER for these three weeks. 








I changed the width of lug from 20 mm to 22 mm. I attached a black saddle leather strap. 








Because I wanted a chic atmosphere, I changed the color of steel hand to brown. 








The edges of the lug, bezel and caseback were polished. Now selling it at eBay. $1,750


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## Sean779

Such a handsome watch. It's like nothing else out there. I call it a classic already. I'd buy it if I could.


----------



## Alexandrmit

Classic design across modern style .
Great work !


----------



## INTERIMLAMB

Sean779 said:


> Such a handsome watch. It's like nothing else out there. I call it a classic already. I'd buy it if I could.





Alexandrmit said:


> Classic design across modern style .
> Great work !


Thank you everyone! 
Now I am trying to make new dial with Japanese traditional pattern "Same-Komon" motif. "Same-Komon" is very small circular dot pattern like a shark skin used from Edo-period.









Using 0.4mm thick brass plate and hand drilled to open many many small holes...irritated my eyes.
















At the lathe, cutting the diameter.
















These holes of pattern will be stuffed with dark-silver paint.























It must be dried well...that's all for today.


----------



## Magura

For stuff like that, you should mix aluminum or silver powder with epoxy. The paint will shrink and make an edge around the hole.


Magura


----------



## INTERIMLAMB

Magura said:


> For stuff like that, you should mix aluminum or silver powder with epoxy. The paint will shrink and make an edge around the hole.
> 
> Magura


Magura is right.;-) Lacquer paint is failure. It was finished poorly...I will retry with epoxy. Thank you Magura.


----------



## Magura

On a different note, I just noticed that your holes are not round but rather triangular. For the next shot at this a sharper and/or a shorter drill will have less of that effect. The rule of thumb is 3 X the diameter of the drill is the max. length for stuff like this. 
Shorter is always better, as sharp as possible, and short sharp carbide in a milling machine is ideal.
Before you fill them with epoxy, you can make them round with a reamer if available, or alternatively a tapered round needle file on a drill press.
It will scream to high heaven that they're not round, once you get a clean contrast between the base material and the inlay.


Magura


----------



## INTERIMLAMB

I fix the holes to rounding with a reamer and stuffed with epoxy. As a result, it was failure. There are some crater. It is different from my image and not beautiful simply. I will reconstruct it fundamentally.


----------



## Magura

What you see there is air inclusions in the epoxy.
It looks much like you used some sort of epoxy adhesive. That is to my knowledge impossible to get mixed without air inclusions.
If you use an epoxy resin intended for laying up composites, the thinner the better, and mix it very! slowly (may take like 10 minutes to mix) with a relatively thin round peg, you'll get around that. 
Also putting the mixed epoxy under vacuum for a couple of minutes before applying it, with take most of the air bubbles out. 
Fact is though that not mixing the air into the epoxy in the first place is to be preferred.
Mixing epoxy is not as easy as it sounds, and may require a few attempts to get it right, especially the part about going real slow seems to be hard.
One way to get it done a bit easier, is to mix your solids in the resin and leave it for a couple of days, before mixing in the hardener. 

Magura


----------



## S.M.B

Absolutely beautiful. Thank you for sharing.


----------



## Chronopolis

I just discovered this thread.
Wonderful work! Respect!

I look forward to seeing more of your work in the future.
The Japanese pattern for the dial is very enticing! I can't wait to see the result.

Best wishes!


----------

