# Review: Baume & Mercier Classima Executives XL Chronograph 8692



## Drez (May 17, 2008)

As with most of my reviews I try to organize them in as logical a manner as possible, I apologize where the groupings cross over and where a review becomes overly subjective. In either case, please enjoy viewing this piece and I hope you find this review enjoyable or at least informative.

*The Baume et Mercier Brand*

The brand enjoys a fairly strong pedigree not to mention financial backing under the Richemont Group (JLC, Panerai, IWC, Cartier). While the brand has a couple cult classics (the XXL Capeland diver comes to mind), its surprising that Baume et Mercier does not have more of a following. In terms of brand placement (prestige/cost/value) I personally place along with peers like Longines (Swatch Group) or Tag Heuer (LVMH) though in recent years they appear to be creeping up the latter. Given my experiences, I welcome this as I view the brand very positively in terms of quality and value. 

*Design*

What a well balanced and tasteful design in my eyes. The subtle blued hands on a creamy silver/white dial coupled with a brown strap is one of the most solid foundations a watch can be designed on IMO. Perhaps I'm simply a sucker for it but its a timeless look in my eyes and lends itself well to a variety of settings, when paired with a clean design you can hardly help having a winner in my books.

Detailed dimensions as best as I can measure are as follows:

Diameter 42.5mm without crown, 45mm with crown
Thickness 13.5mm
Lug to Lug 51mm 
Lug Width 22mm
Deployment/Buckle Width 20mm
Strap Length 118/78mm

Please note the curved lugs mean the otherwise large lug to lug size is forgiving, the 13.5mm case thickness (largely due to the thick Valjoux base movement) is quite substantial. Note that since the case does not taper, the rise from the wrist is accentuated. The 42.5mm diameter is also pronounced somewhat by the pushers as often is the case with a chronograph as well as the lack of a bezel. When further coupled with a fairly clean dial layout, the end result is a fair amount of wrist presence.

Translation, forgiving dimensions mean the watch can be worn by med-small wrists but its unquestionably a larger dress watch and it carries substantial presence, I do not however find it excessive at all. The entire presentation appears fairly well balanced. For reference my wrist is at 7 1/4"and I find it wears comfortably. Shirt cuff conflicts may arise depending on the shirt.

The strap quality is quite good, the noble crocodile is supple with a fine grain to it while the shade of brown is quite dark. It has a nice cut to it as well and overall presents very nice. The deployment is wonderful. While it falls short of some of my all time favourites (like the Omega/Tag Heuer) it scores those points right back again for its compatibility to standard aftermarket straps (take note manufactures, we notice these things!). Even the size dimensions are one of the most common configurations (22/20mm) giving lots of options. The butterfly style deployment type is not always my favourite but its at least well executed and centers on the wrist well for a good fit. The portion that appears to be a tang buckle (but is not) is well designed and I appreciate novel designs particularly in this case as it integrates well into the deployment. The one flaw I would offer is I fear over time the single center joint may experience premature wear as the clasp is a pressure fit and constant lateral pressure to this point may fatigue it (and or the strap) prematurely over time. Please note on the smallest hole I would estimate a good fit for 7" wrist (possibly tighter fit on 7 1/4".) Anything smaller would be needing a new hole or an aftermarket strap. I might argue this is a good _rough_ reference to what size wrist the watch is most apt to suit.




























Regarding the dial design, the suppressed second hand is perhaps the most salient element even if not at first realized. To me, this is most welcomed. Chronographs often suffer from looking overly cluttered, dressier watches especially suffer in this regard. Given that chronographs almost always can track seconds, a running seconds hand is somewhat redundant. Its removal allows for the removal of a whole sub dial and as a result a much more clean dial and additionally balanced symmetry. The extra space allows for clear and legible deviations down to 15s increments which is more that suitable for most, if not all, timing needs. If finer measurements are required the chronograph can always be engaged. After all that's its purpose, no? This is a winning set up is not unlike the now classic IWC Portuguese, its too bad its under utilized.

Baume et Mercier scores extra points for a few other design notes.

A) for removal of unneeded scales (unless your a race car driver or pilot) as they too add unnecessary clutter to a watch with intended design of a "classical" look intended for business wear, after all this is the "Classima Executives"

B) for placement of the dial signature off center. This does two things, it firstly prevents occlusion by the seconds counter (a huge pet peeve of mine) and secondly balances out the date window to the opposite side. A further note regarding signature placement is the "Phi" symbol at "12" as this is the secondary Baume & Mercier signature. Its placement serves a double function as zero line for the chrono min and seconds. Again well thought out. As a footnote please be advised that that this trademark is a stylized Phi for Baume & Mercier's purposes, the true Greek capital letter Phi should be symmetrical top to bottom. This is probably for branding and trademarking but I felt it was noteworthy.

C)No extra dial text. I would be happy if most watches would Include the brand, the fact that its an automatic and one extra note of choice (Geneve in this case). This is perfect. Anything more is clutter in my eyes, I know the watch is a chronograph after all and silly details like WR, model and who's uncle was involved in the design can all go on the case back where they belong. I'll quit before I rant.

I've already mentioned the clean dial deviations. The chonograph follows suit. This chronograph tracks to 12 hours, anything more is superfluous I would argue and most of us, unless prone to long term blackouts, should be able to keep track of how many times its passed 12 hours even if were timing something longer. The half hour deviations are clean on the hour sub dial, often they are not and this is another pet peeve of mine Im happy to see avoided, similarly the minute deviations and even sub seconds down to 1/4s are all very clear. A timing device is only as good as it can be used and you would be surprised how many chronographs can not be used to their potential due to unclear dials.

I've already mentioned that I feel the dial layout is wonderful ad nauseum, but the dial texture is also superb! Sunken sub dials add a sense of depth and in some ways visually separate these counters from the min/hour dial. The sub dials also enjoy a very fine spiral texture, great attention to detail. The central horizontal "slates" or bars on the dial is similar to that of the 8500 Aqua Terra line and provides that much sought after texture that often separates boring dials from those enjoyable to look at. Beyond the applied indices you'll fine yet another textured ring of indentation. These elements really help to personify the clean, elegant and organized theme of the classical art period and the "classima" namesake _in addition_ to providing the mentioned depth and texture that capture the eye again and again. This is especially true when the lighting situations change as direct single source light really takes advantage of of this sort of texture.

All in all, a wonderfully designed piece.


















*
Fit, Finish and Features*

30m water resistance may be a weakness but any time I'm, wearing a a genuine croc I'm unlikely to even wear the watch to do dishes.

The case back is terrific. In general I'm not a fan of austere solid casebacks (i.e. IWC, Rolex) after all, I feel care should go into the entire creation. In contrast I rather prefer the care and workmanship of a nicely tooled caseback (ie. Breitling or Hydroconquest). Alternatively, display backs can be wonderful but as they've gradually taken over the art of nice casebacks has declined and often the trade is for a very basic minimally finished movement. Where am I going with all this? The Classima Executives embraces the best of both worlds. The case back is nicely finished, not the same depth or degree as the benchmarks listed above but still well executed. The case back also enjoys a porthole to view the heart of the watch, the balance wheel. Despite the small viewing hole the rotor appear well finished, it is this sort of care and detail that helps to justify the prices of our favoured peices.

The housed base movement is the iconic, tried tested and true Valjoux 7750, a welcomed choice in my books. Often touted as one of the "must haves" in every collection; I find the famous occasional "Valjoux wobble" to be endearing. In this same vein, I prefer the use of a true chronograph such as this over a module (i.e. Dupraz Dupuis) as the later feels like an after though. Don't get me wrong, I've had them and enjoyed them and there is certainly nothing wrong with them (after all if Audemar Piguet can use them who am I to judge) but I can't help being partial to a movement with the inital design intention of being a chronograph. Valjoux=win.

A few notes regarding the movement, first, the wobble is very noticeable in this piece. Not every Valjoux 7750 has exhibited the same amount of wobble as Im sure case design and other factors play into reducing or exacerbating the effect. This watch, love it or hate it, has a fair bit of wobble now and then. I personally like it, reminds me the watch is "alive." The second note is the rotor is rather loud. This I do not love. I'm not sure if its resonance or what, but the rotor is louder than I would say is usual. Some people might not mind, again is a nice reminder the watch is hard at work but I find it a little too much for my tastes and its one of those subjective things (like how loud the wind is) that people base subjective opinions on, good or bad.

On that note, the movement also has a fairly "stiff" feel to wind and is on the louder end of the spectrum. I prefer silky smooth winding myself as it feels like quality to me, even if there is no correlation between these things. A further note regarding winding is that despite a lovely large crown with good grip, manual winding is rather difficult. I'm not sure if its that the crown (despite a large diameter) is fairly thin, or if its more the shape of the case, but I find winding rather difficult which is too bad as the one thing I like about watches with low WR is that I can manual wind without unscrewing the crown. Sadly this feels moot in this case.

Timekeeping has been good, about what is expected from a Swiss made automatic, albeit nothing beyond status quo.

The rest of the case is also well tooled. Nice recess to the crown signature and deployment detailing, fine smooth lines across the case bezel and lug horns. The deployment has a nice firm pressure fit. Overall the fit and finish in every other regard appears top notch.




























* Summary:*
A few minor short comings but overall solid fit and finish and a truly lovely presentation for a larger dress watch that exemplifies the clean bold elegance of classical art, perfectly suited for the board room or where ever else you might find yourself.


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## Daniel Z (Mar 3, 2011)

Lovely review and an awesome watch (Y)!


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## dokman (Nov 6, 2012)

Thank you! This was a great help. Now i wear this watch and i love it.


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## Lava Lamp (Apr 4, 2008)

Thank you for an excellent review. I look favorably on the Baume & Mercier line as well and keep an eye open for a Classima at a good price. I bought my wife an Ilea recently and we've been very pleased with it.


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## Drez (May 17, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words all and grats to Dokman and your wife Lava Lamp; I hope your B&Ms serve you well.


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## Kid_A (Mar 2, 2014)

very nice, very classic. BM in each inch great review.


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