# Poljot 3133 adjusting guide



## macca4motion (Jun 2, 2010)

Hello friends, I'm here sharing with you my experience on this calibre, on how regulating cams, posting my thread written on another forum hoping it will be helpful. I'm not responsible of any damage to your wristwatches!!!!


Here we go. Movment on my table, chrono on, fully working ( sorry for mobile phone pictures ):



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

*Cam 1:*

This one sets the distance between the minute counter spring and wheel . UNSCREW PARTIALLY THE HIGHLIGHTED SCREW BEFOR STARTING MOVING CAM. This cam moves the spring tooth , a good regulation is obtained when the minutes chrono hand sweeps exctly of 1 minute at the "12" o'clock passage of second chrono hand.

You have to adjust this cam when the watch stops passing to the next chrono minute, in fact when the tooth is bad regulated, the second hand wheel and the minute hand wheel don't slip one on the other, hitting themself.
This regulation has not to be used for setting "zero" position of minute chrono hand..
You have to be really carefull adjusting this camme, this spring is really delicate and easy to break. Always use a movement holder!!!!

- "VITE" in the picture in SCREW in Italian, forgot to translate!!!

*Cam 2:*

It sets the depth of the engagement between sprocket and minute chrono wheel.
Acting on this cam if: chronograph minute wheel hard to turn ( too deep engagement ), or if operating the chronograph minute hand has a jump over his "zero" position ( sprocket too distant slamming operating chronograph ). 
Note well that this cam also regulates the second wheel brake, so you can have problems from bad regulation, like wheel always braking or always free.
Acting with chrono turned on.

*Cam 3:*
This cam engages and disengages the chronograph pressing the button. Act when the chronograph will not start or stop

*Cam 4:*

This cam controls the depth of engagement between the chronograph second wheel and sprocket to the second chrono wheel. Acting on this when:
movement stops with chrono turned on, engagement will be too deep or too loose.
Adjust with chrono turned off and "zeroed".

*Cam 5:*

This cam controls the depth of engagement between the sprocket wheel and second chrono wheel.
Act on this when, with chrono turned on, the movement stop working ( too deep engagement ) or when the second chrono hand works intermittently ( loose engagement ).
Act with chrono turned on.
NOTA: after this adjusting check again cam 4.

Hope you enjoy, and sorry for my english, its not my first language!

*NOTE: COPY FOR EACH OTHER FORUMS EXPRESSLY PROHIBITED*

AGGIUNGO LA VERSIONE ITALIANA PER GLI AMICI CHE LEGGONO CERCANDO UNA DRITTA!

Vorrei rendervi partecipi di quanto ho imparato trafficando vicino a questo bel calibro. Naturalmente tutti quanti siete invitati a segnalarmi eventuali imprecisioni o errori, e... non mi assumo responsabilità se distruggerete il vostro amato segnatempo!


Cominciamo. Ecco il movimento sul mio tavolo, a crono innestato e funzionante ( scusate la foto fatta con il cellulare ):










*Camme 1:*

Questa serve a impostare la distanza di fermo ruota minuti crono ad ogni passo. PRIMA DI REGOLARLA ALLENTARE LA RELATIVA VITE DI FISSAGGIO EVIDENZIATA. Questa camme agisce sulla mollettina visibile, spostandone tangenzialmente all'ingranaggio il dentino.

Agite su questa quando il crono si ferma al momento di incrementare il contatore minuti, ossia quando il dentino della ruota secondi prende di punta l'ingranaggio della ruota rinvio minuti ( evento facilmente verificabile con una lente ).
La posizione garantita dal dentino non va intesa come regolazione dello "zero" della ruota minuti.
Al momento del riserraggio della vite, interporre se necessario un piccolo spessore ( es. punta oliatore ) tra la battuta della base della molla e il ponte a V con i rubini della ruota minuti e secondi crono, queso per applicare un precarico al dentino di arresto sulla punta della molletta nel caso fosse necessario.
LA MOLLETTA E' DELICATISSIMA, ATTENZIONE CON IL CACCIAVITE, OPERATE SOLO CON MOVIMENTO BEN FERMO SU UN PORTAMOVIMENTI.

*Camme 2:*

Regola la profondità di ingranamento tra la ruota di rinvio ai minuti crono e la ruota minuti crono. Agire su questa camme se: la ruota minuti crono gira con difficoltà ( ingranamento troppo profondo ), oppure se azionando il crono la lancetta dei minuti crono fà un salto fuori dalla sua posizione di "zero" ( ruota di rinvio troppo distante che sbatte azionando il crono ). 
Notare bene che questa camme regola anche il freno della ruota secondi, con tutti gli eventi che ne derivano in caso di errata regolazione ( ruota sempre frenata o sempre libera ).
Agire a crono innestato.

*Camme 3:*
Questa camme innesta e disinnesta il crono alla pressione del pulsante. Agire quando il crono non parte o non si ferma, a crono innestato e non.

*Camme 4:*

Questa camme regola la profondità di ingranamento tra ruota dei secondi continui e ruota intermedia di rinvio ai secondi crono. Agire su questa quando:
Il movimento si arresta a crono disinnestato, l'ingranamento sarà troppo profondo o troppo lasco, determinando nel primo caso il contatto tra le creste dei denti di una e le valli dell'altra, e nel secondo caso un impuntamento cresta-cresta.
Agire con crono disinnestato e azzerato.

*Camme 5:*

Questa camme regola la profondità di ingranamento tra ruota di rinvio secondi crono e ruota secondi crono.
Agire quando innestando il crono il movimento si ferma ( ingranamento troppo profondo ) oppure quando i secondi crono vengono trascinati ad intermittenza ( ingranamento lasco ).
Agire a crono innestato.
NOTA: dopo aver regolato questa camme verificare nuovamente l'ingranamento relativo alla camme 4.

Spero di aver fatto cosa gradita!

*NOTA: OGNI COPIA PER USO SU ALTRI FORUM E' ESPRESSAMENTE VIETATA*


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## YG1 (May 7, 2010)

Nice guide.
Some 3133 are badly adjusted and when you start chrono seconds hand tend to jump forward.
This happens because seconds sprocket is too far from chrono seconds wheel.
To make chrono start smooth you have to position sprocket as closely to seconds wheel as possible (while chronograph is reset) using 4 and 5 cams.


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## pacifichrono (Feb 11, 2006)

Thanks for the informative guide. |>


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## Senignol (Sep 18, 2010)

I think I made a mistake...


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## Vaurien (Jun 9, 2008)

Fine! :-!

Thank you very much


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## Sodiac (Dec 6, 2008)

YG1 said:


> Nice guide.
> Some 3133 are badly adjusted and when you start chrono seconds hand tend to jump forward.
> This happens because seconds sprocket is too far from chrono seconds wheel.
> To make chrono start smooth you have to position sprocket as closely to seconds wheel as possible (while chronograph is reset) using 4 and 5 cams.


My new Sturmanskie "TV" chrono has exactly this problem. It started out jumping ahead 1 minute, now jumps erratically, sometimes up to 7 minutes! I'm packing it up today and sending it back to Irina Maier, she said she'll take care of it. Good thing for Germany's 2 year warranty!


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## macca4motion (Jun 2, 2010)

Original Italian Version added for all Italian friends!


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## McSh5 (Feb 4, 2010)

I keep reading and re-reading this and still not sure if it addresses my problem with my 3133.

Minute chrono hand occasionally jumps forward several minutes on start. Resets just fine though.
Second chrono hand starts just fine, but resets to almost random points on the dial. The longer the chrono runs, the more variability there is on reset. If you only run the chrono a few seconds, it resets a few seconds (but often not the same number of seconds....if that makes sense).

Can anyone help? Thanks!


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## YG1 (May 7, 2010)

Shane112358 said:


> I keep reading and re-reading this and still not sure if it addresses my problem with my 3133.
> 
> Minute chrono hand occasionally jumps forward several minutes on start. Resets just fine though.
> Second chrono hand starts just fine, but resets to almost random points on the dial. The longer the chrono runs, the more variability there is on reset. If you only run the chrono a few seconds, it resets a few seconds (but often not the same number of seconds....if that makes sense).
> ...


to fix minute hand jumps 
you have to adjust cam #2 so minute sprocket would move alittle away from chrono wheel tooth.

to fix seconds hand issue you have to either reinstall hand to correct position and press it in or if the hand's bushing is not tight enough you'll have to replace it


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## McSh5 (Feb 4, 2010)

YG1 said:


> to fix minute hand jumps
> you have to adjust cam #2 so minute sprocket would move alittle away from chrono wheel tooth.
> 
> to fix seconds hand issue you have to either reinstall hand to correct position and press it in or if the hand's bushing is not tight enough you'll have to replace it


Thanks YG1. If the second hand is resetting to random positions on the dial, would reinstalling the hand really fix the problem? It seems like this would only work if it reset to the same (wrong) place every time. Since it is resetting to random positions, it seems like the latter fix (replacing the bushing) would be the more likely fix, correct? Thanks!


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## domi (Jan 21, 2008)

Senignol said:


> I think I made a mistake...


The crown is wrong?


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## macca4motion (Jun 2, 2010)

Shane112358 said:


> Thanks YG1. If the second hand is resetting to random positions on the dial, would reinstalling the hand really fix the problem? It seems like this would only work if it reset to the same (wrong) place every time. Since it is resetting to random positions, it seems like the latter fix (replacing the bushing) would be the more likely fix, correct? Thanks!


Sometimes the second hand slips on the center axle. Try to put it in the correct position and to push it in firmly ( be really careful!!! ), the flyback to zero is really fast and strong and sometimes the hand after some use begins to do what she wants... 
If the hand is firmly inplace, put some watch oil on the "hearth" of the second wheel, this will make it slip softly when the brake hits it.


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## McSh5 (Feb 4, 2010)

macca4motion said:


> Sometimes the second hand slips on the center axle. Try to put it in the correct position and to push it in firmly ( be really careful!!! ), the flyback to zero is really fast and strong and sometimes the hand after some use begins to do what she wants...
> If the hand is firmly inplace, put some watch oil on the "hearth" of the second wheel, this will make it slip softly when the brake hits it.


Thank you. I'm a bit scared to try this, but perhaps it's worth a shot. Already took it to one watch guy who wouldn't touch it.


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## kawasaki z1000 a1 (Jan 21, 2011)

hello just wondering if you could help me with some information on 3133 movement i was given a poljot watch in bits in a box i have been looking for pdf files on where the watch parts fit also their is jewel needs to go some where watch skills nill i keep finding that the poljot is a remaking of valjoux 7734 also their is some cogs damaged if found theirs not many parts for these watches but i could be looking in the wrong places could you help thanks graham


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## McSh5 (Feb 4, 2010)

I got around to working on my 3133 today and was able to fix the jumping minutes hand using the #2 screw, so that is awesome.

Then I started on the randomly resettings seconds hand. I kept running and resetting the seconds hand trying to get it to zero exactly at zero so all I had to do was push the hand in, but now the seconds hand just sort of hangs whichever way gravity wants it to go. Does this sound like a bushing thing or could taking the movement out and pushing the seconds hand in potentially fix the problem?


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## McSh5 (Feb 4, 2010)

Any thoughts? Thanks.


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## pantani (Mar 2, 2011)

thank you very much.
grazie mille!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
interessantissimo


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## lysanderxiii (Oct 4, 2006)

Shane112358 said:


> I got around to working on my 3133 today and was able to fix the jumping minutes hand using the #2 screw, so that is awesome.
> 
> Then I started on the randomly resettings seconds hand. I kept running and resetting the seconds hand trying to get it to zero exactly at zero so all I had to do was push the hand in, but now the seconds hand just sort of hangs whichever way gravity wants it to go. Does this sound like a bushing thing or could taking the movement out and pushing the seconds hand in potentially fix the problem?


Sounds like the hand is loose on the center bushing, does it hang there limp as the chronograph runs?

You might need to tighten the bushing on the hand or get a new second hand.....


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## McSh5 (Feb 4, 2010)

Yes it just hangs there now. How do I try to tighten the bushing? I'm not too experienced (read: not at all) at moving hands around.


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## lysanderxiii (Oct 4, 2006)

You'll need a staking set at the least....


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## wodenm (Jan 2, 2011)

hi a have a problem with the sweep second chrono of my 3133, it is not centered on the 12 a little bit from the right, is there any way to adjust it to the movement? pls. help...

Thanks,


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## McSh5 (Feb 4, 2010)

Update on my continued quest to fix the problem with my 3133 watch and the randomly-resetting seconds hand. I took the movement out today and tried pressed firmly on the seconds hand to try to fix it better. It does reset better than before but still does not reset as it should (the "amount of randomness" is lower, but not zero).

Somehow in the process I managed the mess up the keyless works at the crown, so now it doesn't wind and it only has one position, which is a very grind-y version of the time setting position. Not sure how I managed this since I only removed the crown from the winding position. It's not the first time I've removed the crown of a watch before and it was so easy with the push-button - but somehow I totally screwed it up.

So basically I'm hosed now and need to replace the movement unless someone has a better idea. I've fixed the keyless works before in a 6497 but the 3133 has another plate on it, so I can't even access what is messed up without taking the movement apart....


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## YG1 (May 7, 2010)

Shane112358 said:


> Update on my continued quest to fix the problem with my 3133 watch and the randomly-resetting seconds hand. I took the movement out today and tried pressed firmly on the seconds hand to try to fix it better. It does reset better than before but still does not reset as it should (the "amount of randomness" is lower, but not zero).
> 
> Somehow in the process I managed the mess up the keyless works at the crown, so now it doesn't wind and it only has one position, which is a very grind-y version of the time setting position. Not sure how I managed this since I only removed the crown from the winding position. It's not the first time I've removed the crown of a watch before and it was so easy with the push-button - but somehow I totally screwed it up.
> 
> So basically I'm hosed now and need to replace the movement unless someone has a better idea. I've fixed the keyless works before in a 6497 but the 3133 has another plate on it, so I can't even access what is messed up without taking the movement apart....


Get a new hand or at least get watchmaker to replace bushing on an old one.

There is an aperture on the side of the movement above winding stem hole. You'll see a level there (pull-out piece), push it in until it clicks, this way you'll put keyless into time setting mode. Then install stem as always.


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## McSh5 (Feb 4, 2010)

YG1 said:


> Get a new hand or at least get watchmaker to replace bushing on an old one.
> 
> There is an aperture on the side of the movement above winding stem hole. You'll see a level there (pull-out piece), push it in until it clicks, this way you'll put keyless into time setting mode. Then install stem as always.


Thanks for your help YG1. I located the lever you mentioned and clicked it in. Inserting the crown allowed me to wind smoothly, but the crown would not install completely or lock into place. I played around with it a little bit more and am now back where I was, except that the lever doesn't move at all anymore. Crown doesn't go either either position nor does it lock into place. Grrr...

update: YG1 helped a lot, but unfortunately I can't fix it. I'm sending into Julian and Poljot.de and they are fixing it for me.


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## ej0rge (Jan 13, 2011)

I have posted a possibly clearer explanation of how to reinsert the stem over in the watchmaking forum:

https://www.watchuseek.com/f6/installing-stem-poljot-3133-a-527607.html#post3909647

Based on my own experience with my 3133 (and with pictures).


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## Xantiagib (Feb 13, 2006)

I've got a 3133 Poljot that stops always at 57s - like just before I think the minute chrono hand would jump...
the minute chrono hand does not jump and the movement just stops.

I think to start I have to look at Cam 1, perhaps the spring is too tight thus stopping the movement when the seconds wheel 'finger' wants to push the minute along.

then perhaps cam2 meaning the minute wheel is too tight to move

or maybe Cam 4 & 5 but these would mean the movement would stop sooner than when hitting the minute wheel?


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

Well, I'm no watchmaker but I think you're on the right track. Bottom line is there's either too much friction, a lack of energy, or a combination of both. As far as friction goes, I would look to make sure the chrono minute is moving freely first(remove the spring first). If it is moving freely, then the small amount of friction that is always present could just be straw that broke the camel's back, so to speak. In that case, you would have to look elsewhere for friction, or even a broken part, and then finally to the main spring that provides the energy.


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## Xantiagib (Feb 13, 2006)

I adjusted all the cams, result now I know intimately what they all do - but the minute wheel just does not advance under its own steam.
It does move on its own the spring is not tight at all - however its stiff enough (old oil, broken jewel?) to stop the movement. 
Possibly its a weak main spring or old oil slowing down the power of the watch - I have concluded it needs a complete overhaul. :-(


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

_old oil, broken jewel?_
It could be, the stop watch function may have never been used after servicing. It has to spin with virtually no friction at all.

You may also want to check that the escape wheel is not jamming when the minute gear is engaged. The escape wheel is the one with the hooked teeth adjacent to the the balance wheel. It engages the anchor-shaped lever with the two jewels. It's very easy to break, so I wouldn't touch it or loosen the bolt that holds it in place between the two jewels. Just see how it reacts when it minute gear is engaged. It's very difficult to see in there, I know.


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## Xantiagib (Feb 13, 2006)

The minute wheels spin but seem stiff. The movement stops when the chrono seconds wheel hits a tooth of the intermediate-seconds-to-minute counter wheel. the escape wheel continues to tick a bit and then stops shortly after (within 1 or 2 seconds)



polmax3133 said:


> _old oil, broken jewel?_
> It could be, the stop watch function may have never been used after servicing. It has to spin with virtually no friction at all.
> 
> You may also want to check that the escape wheel is not jamming when the minute gear is engaged. The escape wheel is the one with the hooked teeth adjacent to the the balance wheel. It engages the anchor-shaped lever with the two jewels. It's very easy to break, so I wouldn't touch it or loosen the bolt that holds it in place between the two jewels. Just see how it reacts when it minute gear is engaged. It's very difficult to see in there, I know.


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

It sounds like the chrono minute stem or hand is rubbing on something. The minute hand may be pressed in too much. You would need a hand puller to investigate further, and with that goes the potential to break the stem or damage the hand. It's tough when parts are not readily available, mistakes can be very costly.


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

I just repaired a 3133 with this identical problem. After trying to ajust, I noticed that the chrono bridge was pressing down just a little too much and rubbing on the top of the minute cam. All I did to correct the problem was pull up on (micro-bending) the bridge arm and the problem was corrected. Of course, other causes are still possible...


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## bencayetano (Jul 9, 2011)

Instead of making a new thread about a specific watch, I'll stick it in here since the watch I'm interested has this movement.

Is the chrono problem common? How's the overall performance of the regular time "out of the box?" 
Can I count on this movement to last me down the line assuming that it is serviced? 
How hard would it be to find someone to service these Russian movements? Any suggestions on the West coast?

The two guys that we usually go through said they likely would not do it.


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

No, not commom at all. These chronos date back to the seventies so you're going to run into a few problems here and there if you're collecting some of the oldies. The vast majority that I have purchased, including the oldies, have had no issues at all.

If you are purchasing new, and are concerned about repairs after the warranty runs out, I would recommend that you purchase from P.Maier (the forum sponsor):

Russian watches Vostok Europe, Poljot, Aviator, Buran, Sturmanskie, Denissov, Vostok, Molnija

or

Julian Kampmann:

Russische Uhren, Poljot, Julian Kampmann

My understanding is that _they_ will make repairs to watches that _they_ sold new after the warranty runs out. So you can't go wrong!


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## kev80e (Apr 19, 2014)

I have a 3133 Sturmanskie that the minute hand on the chronograph jumps forward 1 minute on start up. Reading this thread I have located the appropriate screw etc but am unclear on part of the instructions. Does turning the screw ,marked 2 on diagrams at start of thread , move the lever or do you loosen the screw and move it then tighten it again? In the original post it says act with chronograph on, surely this doesn't mean have it running whilst do I g this, or does it? 
Any help appreciated, waiting for screwdriver at the moment hopefully be here for the weekend then it depends on how brave I am feeling as to I have a go or send it for a service.


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

I think that it is more likely #1, kev80e. Does the minute-counter function normally otherwise?


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## kev80e (Apr 19, 2014)

polmax3133 said:


> I think that it is more likely #1, kev80e. Does the minute-counter function normally otherwise?


Yes other this which it does about 70% of the time it works great, minute sweeps as the second hand passes the 12 is perfect . It does seem to me to have more of a clunk on start up than my other 2. If it is more than a simple adjustment, i.e. idiot proof, then I will have it serviced and adjusted by a professional. Thanks for your help as always Polmax was hoping you would see this.


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

Well, the jumper spring is very dainty, and once you adjust it the minute hand will be a little out of alignment from zero position.

What has to be done is a) loosen the bolt on the jumper spring; b) adjust the cam below the bolt to raise or lower the spring slightly (1-2mm); c) make sure the spring is pressed against the chrono-bridge before tightening the bolt (it has to be sitting firmly between the minute wheel teeth [and don't over-tighten the bolt]); and finally d) test and see if the adjustment worked. Do this before worrying about the position of the minute-counter hand.

Be very careful not to damage the jumper spring. Try not to even touch the long spring bar attached to the base.


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## kev80e (Apr 19, 2014)

Thanks Polmax think I understand. Sounds a little to involved for me , don't want to damage it took to long to get one . Think maybe a service would be my best option. Just one thing, will this cause damage if used whilst like this ?


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

No, not at all, no damage will be caused. It is, like many 3133s, not properly adjusted. My Okeah FE's second hand jumped ahead a second or two staight out of the box!


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## kev80e (Apr 19, 2014)

Thanks a lot , will enjoy it for a while then get it done .


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## kev80e (Apr 19, 2014)

polmax3133 said:


> I just repaired a 3133 with this identical problem. After trying to ajust, I noticed that the chrono bridge was pressing down just a little too much and rubbing on the top of the minute cam. All I did to correct the problem was pull up on (micro-bending) the bridge arm and the problem was corrected. Of course, other causes are still possible...


Really not surprised that a Polmax post contained the answer to my problem. Sorted , thanks Steve.


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## polmax3133 (Jun 13, 2011)

Hey kev80e, I have since discovered that the brass bushing that chrono-minute stem fits through can also be adjusted to resolve this problem. Tapping the bushing in slightly from the top will give the chrono-minute wheel more room to maneuver freely. Unfortunately, to accomplish this you would have to remove the chrono-minute hand and wheel in order to get at the bushing. What I then do is reverse the blade of a mini-screwdriver so that the but end of the round bar is at the end, insert it through the hole in the plate until it rests on the bushing, and then lightly tap until the desired result is achieved. Be careful not to tap the bushing out of the plate end because much of the watch will have to be disassembled to re-insert it.

However, slightly bending the chrono-bridge is certainly the easiest, albeit incorrect, method for most.

The problem is caused by differing lengths of the thicker part of the axle (and hence stem) that rests on the bushing. This bushing seems to have been adjusted to fit the length of the main axle.


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## kev80e (Apr 19, 2014)

Thanks polmax that answers my question of why this happens. All sounds a bit too complicated for me to attempt , I would wreck it, but really good to know for future reference. It was on my least important one so had a go , glad I did.


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## haejuk (Dec 20, 2015)

Deleted. Thought I was in a different window...

But since I already made a post, let me just say I found this thread very helpful.


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## cheetahrd (Jan 8, 2015)

very informative thread, I'm gathering all the information on servicing a franken 3133 (Only Dial is relumed wrong)which i got off ebay, that would be a nice start I believe.


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## Solotov (Nov 27, 2017)

Ressurecting a dead thread here. Cross posting too because the first one was in a different forum. ( double faux pas )

So I've got a Poljot 3133 that hit the deck a bit ago. Maybe 2 feet onto thin carpet, not good. So the regulator got all moved outta wack and I adjusted that back to normal and the watch is running reasonably accurate, although i havent got the timeographer out yet. The chronograph functions all work fine when the watch is wound up reasonably well too. 

But the damn thing is rattling! It sounds like a cheap automatic with a noisy [email protected] Anyone know what this could be? It's not really effecting functionality of the watch but now it just feels cheap. I don't have any other 3133 movements, so I don't know if that's how they normally feel/sound. (got a 31659 in the mail though, i guess that will be a good thing to compare it to) Anyone know what could be rattling? I can post pictures when i get home here of the movement.


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## MattBrace (Mar 7, 2014)

Probably a loose case clamp.

Cheers...


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## 24h (Nov 11, 2017)

Solotov said:


> Ressurecting a dead thread here. Cross posting too because the first one was in a different forum. ( double faux pas )
> 
> So I've got a Poljot 3133 that hit the deck a bit ago. Maybe 2 feet onto thin carpet, not good. So the regulator got all moved outta wack and I adjusted that back to normal and the watch is running reasonably accurate, although i havent got the timeographer out yet. The chronograph functions all work fine when the watch is wound up reasonably well too.
> 
> But the damn thing is rattling! It sounds like a cheap automatic with a noisy [email protected] Anyone know what this could be? It's not really effecting functionality of the watch but now it just feels cheap. I don't have any other 3133 movements, so I don't know if that's how they normally feel/sound. (got a 31659 in the mail though, i guess that will be a good thing to compare it to) Anyone know what could be rattling? I can post pictures when i get home here of the movement.





MattBrace said:


> Probably a loose case clamp.
> 
> Cheers...


I think Matt is right. One of my first 3133s (that I have since sold) had this same rattling noise that turned out to be originating from a loose case clamp.

About dropping your watch...same thing happened to me with a Vostok 2415. Dropped the watch on the floor and it immediately began running a few minutes fast per day. I opened it up expecting something to be very wrong, but it turns out that the regulator arm got knocked all the way to one side. I moved it back to run more accurately and the arm was SURPRISINGLY loose. Seems like it's a defect from poor manufacturing tolerances or something...


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## Solotov (Nov 27, 2017)

MattBrace said:


> Probably a loose case clamp.
> 
> Cheers...





24h said:


> I think Matt is right. One of my first 3133s (that I have since sold) had this same rattling noise that turned out to be originating from a loose case clamp.
> 
> About dropping your watch...same thing happened to me with a Vostok 2415. Dropped the watch on the floor and it immediately began running a few minutes fast per day. I opened it up expecting something to be very wrong, but it turns out that the regulator arm got knocked all the way to one side. I moved it back to run more accurately and the arm was SURPRISINGLY loose. Seems like it's a defect from poor manufacturing tolerances or something...


I'll give it a look tonight when i can sit down and open the watch. Definitely noticed the regulator arm being extremely loose too, wasn't happy about that.
Thanks!


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## Solotov (Nov 27, 2017)

Solotov said:


> I'll give it a look tonight when i can sit down and open the watch. Definitely noticed the regulator arm being extremely loose too, wasn't happy about that.
> Thanks!


Never found anything off about it, another poster mentioned this series just has a potentially loose internal bezel.

I've got a followup question about a new 3133 i received. If I put it on my timeographer it's running fantastic, maybe +5 sec per day in every orientation i've tested. But for some reason it will lose massive time overnight maybe 15 minutes or so. Both on my wrist if i sleep with it and in the watch box. I'm not sure what could be causing this to happen. I've also noticed that the original chrome plated crown was replaced with a stainless steel version and it's a bit harder to turn, almost feels sticky.


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## Solotov (Nov 27, 2017)

*double post


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## antilucem (Aug 16, 2014)

> I've got a follow up question about a new 3133 i received. If I put it on my timegrapher it's running fantastic, maybe +5 sec per day in every orientation i've tested. But for some reason it will lose massive time overnight maybe 15 minutes or so.


Try different positions each night to regulate it. It may be a 3133 but it will still have some variation, so take advantage of this to maintain accuracy. I keep mine to a few seconds a month like this.


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## 24h (Nov 11, 2017)

antilucem said:


> Try different positions each night to regulate it. It may be a 3133 but it will still have some variation, so take advantage of this to maintain accuracy. I keep mine to a few seconds a month like this.


Well if it's losing 15 minutes overnight, then something is certainly wrong and it's not from "normal" positional variance.
As for the cause of it? I don't know :-s


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## jackie01 (Jul 4, 2019)

Solotov said:


> Never found anything off about it, another poster mentioned this series just has a potentially loose internal bezel.
> 
> I've got a followup question about a new 3133 i received. If I put it on my timeographer it's running fantastic, maybe +5 sec per day in every orientation i've tested. But for some reason it will lose massive time overnight maybe 15 minutes or so. Both on my wrist if i sleep with it and in the watch box. I'm not sure what could be causing this to happen. I've also noticed that the original chrome plated crown was replaced with a stainless steel version and it's a bit harder to turn, almost feels sticky.


Hello,

Probably your problem is with loose canon pinion. At the midnight when there is need for more power to change date loosen cannon pinion cause that watch lose time. Need to dissasembly hands and dial and tighten cannon pinion.


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## system11 (Mar 2, 2018)

Bumping an old thread.. So what do you do if you have a watch where the movement is rattling around (as seen by most recent posts) but the case clamp screws seem to be tight? They seem to be two tiny bits of metal that curve slightly in the direction of the crystal. I don't see how they are supposed to work - this is in a classic 3133 chrome case with the domed pushers.


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## MattBrace (Mar 7, 2014)

system11 said:


> Bumping an old thread.. So what do you do if you have a watch where the movement is rattling around (as seen by most recent posts) but the case clamp screws seem to be tight? They seem to be two tiny bits of metal that curve slightly in the direction of the crystal. I don't see how they are supposed to work - this is in a classic 3133 chrome case with the domed pushers.


There are two tags underneath the two screws, these tags fit into slots on the case. Try removing the tags and turning them upside-down they should be straight and grip on the top of the case slots but sometimes get bent with age.
There is no spacer ring for this 3133 case type.

Cheers...


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## system11 (Mar 2, 2018)

Ok I took them both out to have a look, both are bent at least 45 degrees and you can see where they've rubbed on the inner edge of the case rather than fitting in those slots. So I guess the wrong clamps have been fitted after a service or something, or they were put in wrong causing them to bend in the first place. The bend is directly where the movement edge is so anything that wasn't held by the screw was pushed over, seems to be the problem.

Can I get replacements or is the correct course of action to use some pliers to flatten them?


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## joecool (Nov 11, 2012)

Put them on a hard flat surface and press down on them with another flat hard item...should do the trick....no need for pliers cause the metal tangs are quite thin and should bend reasonably easily.


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## system11 (Mar 2, 2018)

That was both more difficult than I expected and also easier. It really was as simple as straightening them out and refitting, movement isn't moving around anymore. Took a few attempts before I was totally happy with the positioning, had about 0.5mm to work with. At least that's one of my many watch related headaches dealt with.

Educational too - not only did I learn how case clamps work, I also discovered the tweezers in my watch toolkit are complete rubbish.


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## joecool (Nov 11, 2012)

Yep the metal tangs and screws are fiddly little b^$+£®)$


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## dariovw (Dec 20, 2019)

hi all, is possible to post again the photo of the first page? thank you


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## Odessa200 (Apr 12, 2019)

I think it is this one


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## cuthbert (Dec 6, 2009)

Quite confused, my 31639 suffers of chrono seconds´jump (forward, 1 sec approx, sometimes), which screw do I have to touch? As more than the cams, it appears 2,3,4 and 5 refers to screws.

To be honest, I think all my 3133s and 31659s have this problem, to a lesser extend, that annoys me and I would like to fix it.


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## Odessa200 (Apr 12, 2019)

cuthbert said:


> Quite confused, my 31639 suffers of chrono seconds´jump (forward, 1 sec approx, sometimes), which screw do I have to touch? As more than the cams, it appears 2,3,4 and 5 refers to screws.
> 
> To be honest, I think all my 3133s and 31659s have this problem, to a lesser extend, that annoys me and I would like to fix it.


How do you think Cams supposed to look? ?
These are NOT screws but Cams. They are 'screws' or look like screws but they have eccentric part and they are there to adjust the chono.

Now, when you say 'my chrono seconds jump 1 sec forward': is that what the second hand supposed to do? It jumps forward 1 sec ?


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## 24h (Nov 11, 2017)

Odessa200 said:


> How do you think Cams supposed to look? ��
> These are NOT screws but Cams. They are 'screws' or look like screws but they have eccentric part and they are there to adjust the chono.
> 
> Now, when you say 'my chrono seconds jump 1 sec forward': is that what the second hand supposed to do? It jumps forward 1 sec ��


Maybe it the common problem that the 3133 and some other cam operated chronographs suffer from? When you start the chronograph, it instantly jumps forward a second or two and then begins ticking normally.


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## Odessa200 (Apr 12, 2019)

YG1 said:


> Nice guide.
> Some 3133 are badly adjusted and when you start chrono seconds hand tend to jump forward.
> This happens because seconds sprocket is too far from chrono seconds wheel.
> To make chrono start smooth you have to position sprocket as closely to seconds wheel as possible (while chronograph is reset) using 4 and 5 cams.


Quoting this advise as an answer to the above question. Good luck.


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## cuthbert (Dec 6, 2009)

Odessa200 said:


> How do you think Cams supposed to look? ��


I am a mechanical engineer and I know ho cams look.

These are cams:










This is the cam of a 7750 and guess what, it looks like a cam:


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## Odessa200 (Apr 12, 2019)

cuthbert said:


> Odessa200 said:
> 
> 
> > How do you think Cams supposed to look? ��
> ...


Great! I am a mechanical engineer as well. At least used to be ?. Cams in 3133 are much much much simpler. This is why it is so reliable. Basically it is a screw with eccentric head. The purpose of this screw is not to hold parts together but to move parts with its eccentric head. Whatever these are true 'cams' or not is hard for me to say because English is not my native language and I did not study mechanical Engineering in English. But this is what people call these things. Maybe 'adjustment screws' is move correct. Who knows... but we do know that this is what one turns to tune the chrono work.


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