# A Basic Homemade Watchmakers Bench Photo layout



## sixties.nut

Hello WUS Member's,

This is my first contributory post and I hope some will find it useful. Yes I know all of you look forward to my comical and wise-cracking posts but after more than a hundred or so, it's about time I post something serious. Let's get Started...

After looking over the web for plans for a watchmakers bench and finding very little in terms of dimensions I sat down an did some tinkering with the bench on my own. I came up with a bench 40 inches long by 40 inches tall and 18 inches deep.

I picked out Birch ply panels 2' x 4' x 1/4" for the front and sides, this took four sheets of material, then the top I used another 2' x 4' Birch panel by 3/4 inch. 1 sheet of that material. Then for the framing I used Douglas Fir in 2" x 4" in 10' length. 3 boards used. (try to find the dry ones if you can, sure helps too keep it square.)










The inside cross members seen are cut to 15 inches and with the top and bottom outside members adding another 3 inches will yield an 18 inch depth to the table.










The length of course is cut to exactly 40 inches to fit me, I got this figure by laying my forearms down on a surface out stretched and added three inches to each side and came up with the 40 inch figure. Make adjustments where you feel appropriate for your needs.










This next photo is a side view showing the uprights which I cut to 39 inches tall. Again this figure was made to my posture and the chair I plan to use at this bench. I read a post here which one of our members described that you want a comfortable height with your arms resting on the edge of the top surface. My regards to the original poster for that bit of information which I could not have pre-conceived with my limited experience.










With the framing done, all that is left is to hang the panels. Before I go into this next shot I should give notice for all other amatuer carpenter's such as myself, that square in woodworking isn't EVER square. By this I mean to say that even though you have 90 degree's on all four sides. Well just make sure you lay your panel onto whatever frame you make and mark them with the pencil, then cut your panels to the MARK!!!

Don't ask my why, I still don't know. But if you notice a good carpenter while he's working you'll see him do the same thing. 'Square AIN'T EVER SQUARE.' This bottom piece was the first to go on, you'll see the gap towards the bottom. Afterwards of hanging this piece I figured out that the staight edge of the panel don't mean anything in relationship to the square of the frame. USE A PENCIL and MARK YOUR CUT. It is insignificant because it will be covered with a corner mold piece, but I (we) still know it's there. Just to keep the cost factor low, I'll run with it. You will also notice that due to the weight of the panels I added medium duty roller wheels that added another inch to the height! Take this into consideration on your project too. 1 inch will be a big difference in comfort later on.










This next photo shows the inside of the bench here you can see where I had to add the middle cross member to the frontside of the bench to fasten the two sheets of panel securely so that a trim strip can be applied after varnishing. I also added two more extensions so that arm rest padding can be applied later on. I have a board of 1" x 3" oak for triming the top edges with on the backside and sides. These I will cut at 45 degree angles and cap with brass corner plates. Inside on right hand side I will install an inexpensive 'machinst's chest' from harbor freight for the watch cabinet. This will expedite the build and keep the overall cost as low as possible. A shelf to hold the microscope will be added to the left side rear area to balance the load.









Sorry for the quality of the pics it's totally the fault of the operator! I will update this post as more progress is made. Hope it will provide idea's for your homemade benches.

Regards,
sixties.nut
aka Mike


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## sixties.nut

The next few segments will have to be spaced out to allow for drying times of the finishing steps. With this in mind I'll make the second installment of the 'Budget Norm's' Yankee Woodshop. (I know but the other title was copyrighted)!

While I was at my local Borg studying the many colorful cans of finishing products in the isle and totally overwhelmed/under educated, and confused as to which ones to pick, I met up with Mr. Paul-in-Paints!! And THAT Was A Good Thing...

I asked him 'hey gotta minute' an first thing he asked me was 'what are you doing with that brush?' To which I replied 'gonna paint with it, why?' And he said 'why you buying a cheap brush, didn't anyone ever teach you how to properly clean one?' I said 'CHEAP BRUSH MY EYE!' (I didn't think eight bucks was too [email protected]#m cheap anyway). Then I got the rapidfire 5 minute crash course.

I'll be brief and spare you as I continue on. So if your project don't turn out as good as mine, you can just blame Paul-in-Paints okay!

Once I had the finishing nails 'set' with the steel punch I used the DAP wood filler and covered the nailheads then let that dry. I've lightly sanded the bare birchwood surfaces with a 220 grit sandpaper. Then wiped down all the surfaces from top-down.

At this point I used the first of three coating materials. This one was a Gel based stain. I wanted to wind up with a very light shade at the end and I picked the Honey Maple stain colorant. In the next two photos it is hard to determine that hardly anything was done! But actually the stain in person is a dramatic improvement that the photos don't really capture. As Paul-in-Paints instructed, I applied the Gel Stain starting from the BOTTOM's and working my way up, using strokes in a single direction. With that said, here is a couple of shots with the stain applied.










In the photo it only seems that the framing has a more defined reddish coloring.










Later this evening I will post the shots taken after the sealant product was applied.


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## sixties.nut

Back in the shop again this afternoon I get my first look at the cabinet with the sealant applied and I'll take my hat off to ole' Paul-in-Paints. Looks like he knows his stuff alright. The cabinet panels have a nice smooth even sheen to them that the camera just can't capture even after fiddlin' with the white balance settings. Here is what I saw today.










The inside view shows the luster fairly better than the outside view in the next shot but the outside definately has the beginnings of a nice furniture finish look even better than I can show.










As nice as this first coat of sealant went down, I'll give it a light sanding tonight a tack cloth cleaning then another coat of sealer. I don't expect the photo's to be able to show to much of a difference tomorrow so I'll switch back to locating that source for the machinist's cabinet to go underneath. If there is a significant difference though I'll post more pictures tomorrow, if not I'll next show the progress with the first dryed coat of polyurethane. Til then WUS members play safe, stay safe.

(aren't you glad I didn't use the apostrophe on members again?)


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## BullDawg

Sixties Nut,

Wow that is great, I'm guessing by your posts 3 days or less? What will you do for the drawers?

Cheers,

Bulldawg


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## tomshep

Nice work Sir. One of my pending projects. I'd go for braked castors I think, as I wouldn't want it all getting away from me but you are right to go for a good finish. Your descendants will admire the workbench that their grandfather made.


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## Rikku

This is great! I wan't to build a nice desk, but I don't think I'd have any space for it 

For now I'll just have to have a sore neck and back.

Thanks for sharing


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## sixties.nut

When I left off last I had applied the sealer to the wood and let that dry pretty good. Then I lightly sanded the surfaces with 01 grade steel wool pads. Then wiped that down three maybe four times, then I applied the first coat of clear polyurethane yesterday just before a heavy rainstorm here.

Note: This polyurethane went on slicker than greased butter!!! So 'watch' carefully for runs until it thickens some because it wants to run easy. These are the shots from this morning, the camera finally picks up a hint of a gloss on the sides and gives a good indication on the top work surface.










Couple of shots of the inside.



















Expecting more rainshowers here today, I'll switch gears and work on the trim pieces for tomorrows update. I'll use some 1x3 red oak boards for the top lip and a pine deco strip to hide the seam on the front where the two panels meet up.

Thanks for the comments !!! For the drawers I'm planning to use a machinist's cabinet with dovetail edges (If I can find the website again) there is a cabinet online that has the drawers on the end facing much like a bakers rack.

I considered using the locking casters from the onset then decided to go ahead and use the rubber wheel slip cups when I couldn't find locking wheels small enough that was durable. Now that the cabinet has been assembled it's weight is in the neighborhood of 70 pounds and even on a level flooring it takes a good nudge to get it moving.

I'm trying to avoid making my own using the router and dovetail jig, just to show that a decent quality cabinet can be made with simple handtools thus far the only electrical tool used has been a jig-saw to trim the panels. Most everyone has one already. Weather holds out, tomorrow we'll have trim applied and then another coat of polyurethane can go on.


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## tomshep

Wheel cups sound like a good Idea. The finish is very good and you've created some nice work there. If you are using a bench mat, well and good but you might find it worth dulling the worktop finish with a coat of matt Polyureathane to kill reflections from your lighting, which should best be diffused if you are going to spend a lot of time at the bench (which you jolly well deserve to after that work.)


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## Genway

Mike,

Beautiful finish on wood and I like the caster and handle idea.
It is about time to consider few detail on your bench top layout.
First you need a retaining edge, as every single thing will push out and fall from the bench top eventually by accident, small screw and spring will jump away and this retaining walls will keep it on the top.
You will also need some groove on front edge (near you), so small parts will trapped there just in case it rolled.
You need measure your lamp's arm to reach every corner of the bench top. where the lamp will be and how to set in minimum area.
I use six inch wood dowl in one inch diameter, drill a hole on one side so my swing arm lamp post drop in and fit, I screw the dowl onto center of my bench back retaining wall, it more like windshield blade swing on front panel of car, so it reach everywhere on my bench.
All tall piece of equipments, you need to design a secure place for it, so will not fall over by accident.
Retail watchmaker, trade watchmaker, weekend watchmaker, or hobby watchmaker, all have different use of their bench, and size of working area vary too. But if you could, do design a seperated area for heavy work, i. e. hammering, press, lathe... watch bench is best no vibration and no inpact! small parts could changed place and jump away.
List all the basic equipments you will put on the bench and make a simple layout plan for each tool where it set.
Jeweler's bench is relatively heavy in contrast to watchmaker's, but as new technology advanced every days, watchmaker's bench are more specially design for the trade, advance bench would cost $8000 from Switzerland. just think about how much you can save, put more devisions and compartments to the bench.
It is already look better than a $400 standard bench now, keep the good work.


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## sixties.nut

Thanks for the comments and considerations with the lighting Tom and Genway ! This is good information to be aware of in the advance planning stages for others to make decisions in their builds.

As for myself, after eight hours of squinting at rows of computer monitors all day, on top of a low vision problem it takes those 'natural' light fluorescent ceiling fixtures for me to see hardly anything at all. I had planned to use a smaller lamp with two T20 bulbs hanging low from overhead. I will start to think about one of the articulated lamps so that I can adjust the position to eliminate glare. Thanks for the heads up!

We didn't get the rain that we expected yesterday, so this helped out a lot. I was able to get the trim boards cut, stained, dryed and attached. I also made the side shelf to mount the microscope. Getting a little antsy (ahead of myself here) Here are some shots I made just to check the balance of the unit.










Even with the addition of 55 pounds of weight I noticed no discernable tipping while moving in either direction.










This shot gives you an idea of how the trim covered the join of the two front panels. It gave a somewhat blend of the two dissimiliar colors of the panels but it is still evident. When I shopped the panels I picked the best in terms of edge rough / scratches / etc. but by going to one retail outlet I was limited to the few panels they had on hand. I should have driven the extra 15 miles and picked matching shades from another local store.










This shot gives an idea of how I planned to catch the rolling, and springing off errant parts. The lip is raised up by three quarter of an inch on the front and sides. For the rear area I plan to make some arm cushions from soft leather with foam inserts underneath and upholstry tack them to a 1/2 thick plywood strips to make the lip on the backside.

Until the cabinet is located or made and the arm rests are finished requiring another final update to this project. All The Best ! Thanks for reading along. Comments, suggestions and opinions are welcome by the next builder.

sixties.nut


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## tomshep

That is a very fine stand for the 'scope. I use a stereo zoom 'scope myself and it is worth its weight in gold. I'll have to scout around for a similar stand.
At least I got the lathe onto a bed this weekend and rigged up the motor so I don't feel too idle.


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## TheHobbit

Awesome, I can't wait to see the finished product.


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## vinylgreek

Very nice and I am agog over your microscope. Really top notch stuff and I am anxious to see how you handle the storage aspect.


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## sixties.nut

Welcome back to the bench project, I was hoping to have all the pieces together for this post but I ran into a snag with the Formica sheeting and arm rest upholstery. So for those interested in the progression here is an update for you.

I located the vertical wooden storage cabinet for underneath storage and once I did, I saw that the cost of that cabinet blew away the concept of a basic workbench. So, instead I fabricated a drawer for underneath that runs the length of the bench and is three inches deep and in conjunction with the tool chest this should provide ample storage for the time being. I was shooting for an overall cost of 200 and I missed the mark by 20 taking into consideration of the drawer boards, fibreboard, and rails. This first shot is the Harbor Freight Tool Chest with the part number on the box.










One would be hard pressed to build a chest as durable for less than the price of 79 dollars! I am pretty impressed with the materials used, here is a close look at the box.










And finally an overall look at the shelf and drawer addition that was put together this weekend. Earlier this afternoon I stained these two pieces and will seal and polyurethane them in the next few days. Maybe by the weekend the laminate for the top will be available and the arm rests ready to install.










Some final commentary to this post, in case you are wondering about the snag with the formica material. It stems from the fact that the nature of this material is fragile so that Home Depot only carries it in 4 foot by 9 foot sheets! In both stores near me they only have four colors, bright white, black, a copper veined brown, and a copper veined white. None of these are suitable for our purpose.

Lowes has the same variety's and they are NON-Stocked items that are special order. At the end of the day on Saturday last, I went to a Kitchen-Bath store here in town. That man didn't have the material but promised to try to get something suitable from his counter-top maker as a remnant piece according to the size I need.

With a little luck, maybe something will happen here by this weekend or next. So for now that's all the news thats fit to print, Thanks for following along! See you next time.

Sixties


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## bjohnson

looks like a very practical setup

good work


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## vinylgreek

I assume you have locking casters because the location of your photo shoot seems a little precarious. The bench looks to be coming along swimmingly. It seems difficult to imagine that a nearly ubiquitous countertop material from my youth has nearly gone the way of the Dodo.


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## tomshep

Thanks for the inspiration. I've been starting work on my own bench this week. The carcass is now complete and I have a frame stood on four of its six legs.
Some pictures will follow as I progress with it.


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## sixties.nut

There we Go, we have some collaboration!!! Thanks for joining in here. Established watchmakers, enthusiasts, and other budding amatuers are also welcomed to post pics of your benches. I've never seen the established bench complete with tools. 

Need not even tidy up, works in progress will make them more interesting. Give the scribes a peek into the secret art of watch medicine! More to come from me later this weekend ! Hope you have a productive weekend Tom!

sixties


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## AbslomRob

Here's my desktop work-in-progress. Still need to figure out what to put on the top. Most of it is 3/4" plywood. All the wood is "leftovers" from other projects. Simple, really. Just needed something to get the stuff I'm working on a bit higher (for the sake of me aching back!)


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## sixties.nut

Very nice work Rob not only for the compact structure but you also made good use of previously deemed 'worthless wood'. My last woodworking project was a microwave table for one of the neighbors. She had specific dimensions for the complete table/appliance to fit in a corner cove. For the legs I used stairway Ballisters which were very economical at 5 each, then I cut them to length.

If you were to attach another plank to the bottom front and rear (to keep level) you would then have a surface to attach table legs. To keep the legs sturdy you could fix a lower shelf midway up the legs and give you some open space storage shelf.

Not having much luck with getting Formica sheeting from the local cabinet makers (I think they must swear an oath to be uncooporative with the competition in their union contracts!) I remembered that it occurred to me that while cutting the masonite board for the drawer insert. That I might possibly be able to use that material if push came to shove. It can be obtained cheaply (large sheet was 5 dollars) and it came in thick and thin thickness, with no warp in any sheet I looked at.

The topside had a smooth surface that could take paint and be covered with sealant/poly coat too. Cheap enough to be later replaced anyway. I'm thinking the lite green Bergeon type work pads will still be the center of focus while working. Once again, what a great design for a moveable and handy bench!

Mike


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## tomshep

Yep! 900mm hemlock spindles (balusters) for the legs, 120x18 pine for the upper frame 1260x606x28 beech worktop (£15 bargain from Ikea so I bought two.)
The cupboard and drawers will be cut from a single sheet of 12mm ply and sit alongside the basic table, the extra worktop becoming a shelf, microscope support and drawer fronts. I was lucky to find self closing drawer slides for under £2 per pair and my local DIY shop will cut the ply up for me with their big Striiebig machine so the drawers arrive in kit form. So far it is all working out but I've an afternoon of chopping mortices in the hemlock (and I wish I had bought pine instead; hemlock is pretty but brittle and not very nice to work.) More later..


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## tomshep

Phase two: The frame is now glued together and cramped up. The table top has been placed temporarily on the frame to load it up and ensure that it dries square and straight. Tomorrow, the frame will be sanded and varnished, the foot rail will be tied in and the top fixed on.


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## sixties.nut

Beech, hmm, I really do need to venture out to a better lumber yard! 

p.s. you guy's are REALLY making me look bad and you know how Watashi don't like that! ;o)

Seriously, It is good to see another example of excellent homemade craftsmanship though! 

Good on ya mate ! At your rate you'll be finished and cracking open watch cases before I even get the finishing touches done.

Mike


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## tomshep

A week further on and the cabinet is well under construction. The drawers need a little lining up and everything needs sanding, filling and finishing. The cupboard door at the bottom needs hinges and everything needs handles. I've yet to source the guard fence and fit the shelf above the bench and where the 'scope is to go, heaven currently knows (and is not letting on.) The bench is now a substantial piece of furniture and I'm happy with the proportions. There will be a lull now as I'm so busy but I promise more photos as progress is made.


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## sixties.nut

HA HA, Tom you ole Salt You !!! You had me going, I thought from your last post that the overhang was where you planned to mount your lathe! You've gone and made six drawers and a cubbard shelf! Man you been BUSY, they look really nice.

I can't wait to see your next addition, but do pause to enjoy the summer while it's here. You really knocked my socks off here. Great Post !!!

My bench is starting to look like one of those things the preacher stands behind. LOL


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## tomshep

It has been altared?:-d


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## BullDawg

Hi TomShep and SixtiesNut,

Thanks for both you guys keeping us posted. Any further progress? In closing on a new house the 31st of the month and will finally have dedicated space for watchmaking. Now everything is is a plastic box that comes out on the kitchen table 2-3 times a week. Me being in a wheelchair I'm not sure what table height I'll need. My wheelchair is not adjustable height wise, I was thinking about hanging an Elfa support bracket and TomShep's beech Ikea top then I can adjust for optimal height and have clearance below. The WD 8 Drawer Chest that SixtiesNut has, will go somewhere above and off to the side. Thanks guys!

Bulldawg


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## sixties.nut

Hey Bulldawg,

I've not had a chance to get into the shop since my last update. Mostly running around to kitchen shops whenever I happen to be by one looking for some formica culls. Not finding anything usable so far the hunt is still on. Tom on the other hand has blown right by me and left me in a cloud of dust!

Instead of using a Elfa bracket which would be fine, consider using two regular door hinges and mount the hanger side to your wall beams.This way you could lift the table top up and latch it to free up some space when not in use. I have a toy train layout that uses this method since it don't get used all that much.

Let us know once your settled into the new place! Sounds like lots of possibilities with new room to expand. 

sixties


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## tomshep

Time was when I, too, had a plastic box on the kitchen table. Making accessories for wheelchair users is not difficult, (There is one sitting next to me right now) I'd begin with a short table and cramp some legs to the existing legs, adjusting them until the height is just right. That will give you the correct dimension. From initial impressions, working at a bench makes a huge improvement to your watchmaking so I wish you well with the project.


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## TicTocTach

Sixties,
In addition to formica culls, you may also want to check at architecture or drafting supply houses to see if they have any cutting matt culls as well. Note that I only assume this stuff is still available - certainly SOMEBODY still drafts things with pencil & paper these days. That stuff is kind of nice in that it is firm enough to draw on, but not quite a rigid surface, either, so tiny dropped things don't have quite the bounce they would on a hard surface. The strange "hospital" green that the stuff seemed to come in so often may not coordinate well with the natural wood tones you've created to this point.

And just to make sure there's still a little love for plastic box watchmaking, I'll say that my wife particularly loves this aspect of my new hobby. I have a Plano Model 3870 "connectable" for both my strapmaking tools and my watchmaking tools. Both are absolutely full to the brim, but have the basics of what I need to work. The kitchen table is best from a lighting standpoint, but the projects can't get drawn out more than a few hours at most due to breakfast concerns...

Clair


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## MikeTheWatchGuy

I'm fascinated by other watch restoration people's benches. I've attached several pictures of mine. I hope this is still on-topic since I bought everything. Still, I'm really happy with it and wanted to share.

I bought one of those table top units on eBay and am thrilled with it. I ended up removing the drawer that pulls out in front to catch parts as it was covered in metal and I suspected magnatism problems.

What's not shown and is a huge part of my setup is the 2 foot by 2 foot piece of white linen cloth I keep in my lap, constantly. It has saved me a billion times.

Let's see, the bench. Standard issue table top model. I used to cover it and push it out of the way. Now I don't bother and it stays right there on my desk. Computer is a chair swivel away.

I have a green mat on the top as you can see. Also on the top I've added 2 organizers. One is again from eBay. I use it to hold tweezers, papers, movement holders, etc. It's in the upper left cover as I'm left handed.

Next to that organizer is a recent acquisition from the Organizer Store. It holds pegwood and lots of other small, long objects.

The main bench drawers are used to store special tweezers, dial tools, mainspring winders, etc etc etc etc etc. The large drawer on the bottom has a lot of my eotk-in-progress-movements.

Since I'm left handed, my notebook is on the left. I have a detailed notebook with notes for each watch. Then a summary notebook that shows all the watches and their current status (e.g. sent out for crystal, added mainspring, needs to be cleaned, ...). I take too many notes and am cutting down on that significantly as I try to streamline my process.

On the sides of the benches are my proudest, most clever idea. Hooks for my loupes. Switching to 10X and back are a snap.

Finally, 3 racks that hold envelopes for dials & cases, all in various stages of restoration.

All of the watches on the bench table or in the bench are active pieces. Everything else is stored in cabinets as are some of the tools I use but perhaps less frequently.

Hoping I was (a) on topic and (b) helpful to someone


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## sixties.nut

Mike, well, well, well, that's a pretty nice setup ya got there! Very impressive. Now I know what a few more of the tools at otto's site is for, and how many I'll need to order of each. This more or less turning out to be a learning topic, glad you pitched in, Thanks!! Others are welcome to share your setup too! In case no one has already, we extend a hearty Welcome to this site to you.

Clair, thanks for mentioning the art store. There is a big one over in the next county near me. I mentally block it out since it's kind of like a casino for me. I walk in with a thin wallet and walk out with empty wallet and a new shiney ink pen! I knew I had seen lot's of useable materials and that's exactly were it was. Now I need to go light a fire under the upholsterer and dig back into this, maybe finish it up this weekend.

Then I can get some tools on order.

I wonder how Rob is doing with the base for his bench? Probably on holiday where we should be. No where near a computer! )

sixties


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## radger

Well done on the builds and layouts you lot.

There's no doubt that you'll enjoy watchmaking a good deal more
with a dedicated workspace, I know I do.

Here's my workbench which I built into a small boxroom, the framing
is 3x2 redwood with 1and1/4" thick hardwood tops except for the
section where I do the watch work which is just a couple of rails with a
3/4" blockboard top. I do all my watchwork on A4 cartridge paper and curl
up the edges to prevent loss of parts.

The reason it is so untidy is my lack of drawer space, which you's have inspired me to remedy, and I was working on watch at the time of pic.


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## sixties.nut

How in the world do you ever get anything done on this bench. There is way too much light and plenty of room to work in ? j/k . Looks as if you've fixed a few by now.

sixties


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## AbslomRob

Being both cheap and impatient (bad qualities for a watchmaker, I know), I opted to continue scavenging from previous house projects, and came up with some leftover floor tile. Its a self-stick Urethane tile (not vinal) that has bit of give to it. Bit too shiny for my tastes, but its light enough in color that I don't lose parts on it, and I usually put a sheet of low-acid paper on top of it anyway when I'm working. I'm still working on the drawers; turns out that adding drawers is a lot more complicated then I though.

For my tools, I found a nice, cheap set of metal drawers from Ikea for $30. Or rather, my wife found it when she got tired of seeing my tools lying all over the place...


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## tomshep

I considered them and they are a good value choice. The drawers in my unit probably cost around twice that (and a certain sweat equity.) I had thought of putting one either side of the Ikea worktop with a smll plinth to lift the cabinets to the right height. Cheap, (under£60,) simple and quick.


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## MikeTheWatchGuy

All of the other furnature in my shop/room is from Ikea. The desk you see my bench on, 2 book cases, the hanging lights in my picture, ...... I get a TON of my stuff from there.

On the topic of storage, I've found it a little difficult to find wooden cabinets to hold parts. I occassionally get one at the NAWCC marts. Those are the best. But I did find one on ebay that I've liked. It has 8 thin drawers and 1 big one. It's about 2 1/4 feet tall and has good depth to it. I'm not promoting their product, just saying I own it. I can post pictures if someone wants. You can find my unit by searching ebay for "unfinished flat file".

I like the tool chest posted earlier. Was wondering if anyone has bought one of those. I also like that it was being considered for under the bench. I hadn't thought of that location, but it makes sense.


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## watch_art

here's my setup. not great, but better than nothing. an old watch bench with some tools my buddy has loaned me. hopefully he won't want it all back. but ya never know.

worked on my first seiko today too. and the staking set, yeah, nice. but i never use it much....


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## MikeTheWatchGuy

Hey Sixties... how did that Tool Chest work out for you? What fits the drawers well or how are you using it in general?

-mike


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## sixties.nut

Sorry I haven't replied sooner on this thread, I've been busy cutting up on other peoples threads, hunting the grails and such. I slipped in checking back to this one.

watch_art: That desk speaks of some history don't it! Nicely laid out with the tools of the trade to go with it. Very nice setup there!

MikeTheWatchGuy: With the small amount of tools I've gathered so far the tool chest is working out great. In the top compartment I keep the duster bulb and a few tweezers, screwdrivers etc. in it. The top two rows of drawers have stiff partitions that can't easily be seen. They work out pretty good for use in storing some other tools not often needed. Then the bottom drawers I use to keep track of the movements once I've opened them. (for now, until I receive the cake dish looking storage units.) Once those come in I'll be able to leave whatever I'm working on at the time on the desktop. So for now, it's working out good for me.

Since I live in a rather small town, it's hard to get the only upholsterer in town to expedite the little arm rest cushions job, so I'm still in a holding patern with that detail. I did stop by the art store and find some materials better suited than formica as TicTocTach suggested, I found some winner material there.

It's amazing how word gets around quickly that someone is tinkering with watches. I've fixed (changed batteries mostly) on some quartz pieces and of those folks my charges were: That if they see any cheap old watches in their travels that they pick them up for me.

So far I've received three watches two were Bulova's from 1957 and 1958 with 11AC movements in them. Cases were in very bad shape but the movements themselves were in almost factory condition, except for the fact that they weren't running. LOL

But hey, you have to have some movements without sentimental value to actually practice with. So now I have a few to begin with. Now if only I could stop buying affordables and spend that money on TOOL's. )

Regards All !
Mike


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## cbrxxrider

Just wanted to show a quick picture of the bench my father is making for me. 

I have no woodworking tools nor much experience. My dad is retired and loves woodworking, so the last time he was visiting I gave him some pictures of benches
in catalogs. This is what he came up with using plywood.


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## tomshep

Looks like nice work to me! :-!


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## AbslomRob

Good work there. My dad has managed to chop off two fingers and his kneecap in two seperate incidents, so I try to avoid giving him excuses to play with powertools.


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## WillytheWimp

Wow, what a workstation!! I had just found a used watchmakers bench that I was planning on buying and having shipped up to Virginia from Texas,Very expensive proposition!!!
My wife said I should look online for plans for building my own as I have plenty of woodworking tools and some limited knowledge. The first thing that came up from a Google search was this post! What a life saver for me!! I now plan on building one like this, with a few modifications along the way to suit my personal tastes and needs.
I too, will make a photo layout along the build and will consider posting it if anyone is interested. 
Thank you,thank you, thank you sixties.nut!! I'll never be able to repay the money you've just saved me or the arguing with my wife!!! Before I posted this I went and cancelled the other transaction.
Again I thank you. That has to be the very best homemade watchmakers bench I've ever seen. What a fantastic job you've done. I think I may use a different color so people will be able to tell ours apart when I finish!
I plan on starting to get materials together this very week end.
You wouldn't happen to have a materials list I can get would you?


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## Jeffza

Cool benches.


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## sixties.nut

Hey Willy Thanks for your kind comments,

As far as a Bill of Materials, I don't have one but I can tell you that everything used came from Home Depot except for the Tool Chest. That was/still is a 79.00 outright steal from Harbor Freight. It's nothing more than Eye Candy if you have a spare tool box handy. Save a little money there.

Best I can recall I picked up a 4 x 6 sheet of I think it was #2 finished birch. That set me back approx. 50~70 dollars, but truthfully in retrospect by using the Minwax polyurethane. You could get away using a hand picked inexpensive #2 sheet of Pine.

The polyurethane comes in clear or stained. Two coats of that stuff and pine can become cherry, smoother that a newborn babies bottom. 

I used just regular sheetrock screws like any good ducktape guy would. You don't even notice them anyway!

There is an example from Shepp and abslobrob crxxrider (I just noticed-real nice work there!) up there which is more compact an hence room saving if your not planning on cold nights out in the garage. Walmart sells a small plastic ironing board that a small bench would sit perfect on and could be put out of place when your not using it. Something to think about!

Glad you used your noggin, and google was your friend! These days I'm all about saving a dollar or two, maybe in the process getting a better item making it ourselves.

Feel free to post your progress or finished bench if you have other projects in the pipeline. We all enjoy pic's and new concepts. So welcome to our madness my friend and good luck with your personal build.

Mike a.k.a (Sixties.nut)


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## SSTEEL

This thread deserves a bump, and a request for updates to those work benches. Some great inspiration you guys have given me.


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## Somewhere else

Speaking as someone who has worked at watch maker's benches their entire working life, here's a few things you might consider when making a watch maker's bench:

1) Is it tall enough. I suspect a lot of you are bending over your desk and may be setting yourself up for back problems if you do a lot of watch work.

2) Mounting your watch makers desk on wheels is a good idea. You occasionally have to move it to clean or search for parts.

3) You definitely need what every jewler's bench has, but for some reason very few watch maker's benches have: a pull our tray to catch parts if you drop them. A frame with cloth in it works well.

4) The skirts of the desk must come down to the floor. This is to stop parts from rolling away. When you drop a part it usually falls quite close to where your feet are, and may roll or bounce a bit. The skirts trap it within a small search area. It's a good idea to make the last 10 centimeters or so out of transparent acrylic sheet. This should go around the entire bottom of the desk. That way you can shine a flashlight on it from the outside to look on the floor more easily to see any part you've dropped.


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## SSTEEL

Great advice my friend, thanks.


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## xzqt

All I can say is NICE ! Great father too.


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