# $1k, $2k, $3k Watch Comparison: Alpina vs. Longines vs. SUF Helsinki



## sdiver68

Thanks for the write-up. It seems the Longines acquits itself quite well as it matches or beats the SUF in nearly every category except case finishing. Though I cant find a rating, I suspect the silicon spring and balance L888.4 at least matches the SUF in anti-magnetic properties.


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## Crisker

Alpina for the dial design win.


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## atxzizou

Longines is the better value choice in my opinion, I actually own one. But I am putting it up for sale. It is almost the ideal GADA for me and even works with my job (Airline Pilot), if it weren’t for those enormously long lugs. Maybe if they shave off a few millimeters in the future I’ll find myself with another one on the wrist.


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## Buramu

Funny how that ugly date hole in the dial makes them all look considerably cheaper.


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## JustinMFrost

sdiver68 said:


> Thanks for the write-up. It seems the Longines acquits itself quite well as it matches or beats the SUF in nearly every category except case finishing. Though I cant find a rating, I suspect the silicon spring and balance L888.4 at least matches the SUF in anti-magnetic properties.


Yes and no. Every detail about the SUF case is better than that of the Longines, and the fact that it's nearly 4mm thinner goes a long ways. I'd also add, that just because the dial has more flashy details does not necessarily make it better either. If we have some free time, you might see a dial macro shot or two of the SUF surface on our Instagram feed later on today-would have done the same with the other two, but this was all shot prior to the macro lens acquisition...


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## sdiver68

JustinMFrost said:


> Yes and no. Every detail about the SUF case is better than that of the Longines, and the fact that it's nearly 4mm thinner goes a long ways. I'd also add, that just because the dial has more flashy details does not necessarily make it better either. If we have some free time, you might see a dial macro shot or two of the SUF surface on our Instagram feed later on today-would have done the same with the other two, but this was all shot prior to the macro lens acquisition...


Its a great article and response. No doubt you like the SUF better overall and objectively it has a nicer case. I think it points out (yet again) how with luxury goods subjective criteria/rankings far outweighs objective criteria/rankings.

Instagram, whats thst? ?


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## JustinMFrost

sdiver68 said:


> Its a great article and response. No doubt you like the SUF better overall and objectively it has a nicer case. I think it points out (yet again) how with luxury goods subjective criteria/rankings far outweighs objective criteria/rankings.
> 
> Instagram, whsts thst? 😅


You're entirely right! That was the fun of putting this together, and I hope that it was hammered home well enough that there is no real right or wrong answer between these three watches. Thanks for the response!


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## chas58

The difference with more $$$?


Case
hands
dial
lume
movement
extras (sapphire, screw down crown)
elegance in fit (comfort, thickness)
design (no cost option?)

I can get a nice watch in the $100-$300 range. But the increase in finishing, materials used (incl. movement), and precision can make for a pretty nice piece of wrist jewelry.


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## Simon

I think the Longines is the winner for me -
Though I like the SUF as a cool evening/weekend watch
The Alpina to me just doesnt look quite right - I think its the size & style of font


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## TJ Boogie

I love the slim case of the SUF, and how fun to add some color to any wardrobe with the gloss red. The other matte colors look great, too. I’d love to see the SUF in real life.
the Longines sounds great, however the L2L is too long (for me) - which is a common gripe of many Longines watches. 
The Alpina has too many dings against it in its price range, but could make someone happy in a pre-owned situation with a good discount.

Thanks for the great write up!


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## Ellery

The SUF case with the Longines dial would be the winner for me.


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## Onebrokecollector

I am a sucker for white dials (don't currently own a watch with a white dial) and one watch I sold I wish I kept was my Alpina. I guess you can put me in the camp of I don't sweat the small details. I care about lume, movement and crystal top 3. I'd probably take that Alpina for the white dial. I do love the bright dial of the SUF! All three are good looking


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## zephyrj

I'd take the Alpina, the dial is pretty dang good to my eye. I've always immediately liked the logo as well. I do agree the hands seem to not match the dial very well though....

I've never been a fan of red so that is an immediate biased con for the SUF, but otherwise does seem like the superior watch, just not enough for me to ignore the $ difference.

Thanks for the read!


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## leastonh

Thanks for another interesting write up Justin.

Hmm, the Alpina looks a bit too...generic? I'm not keen on the stark black and white contrast and the crown is disproportionately large.
The Longines is the most understated of the three and generally looks good, providing your wrist size is large enough to cope with that lug to lug. The hour and minute hands...I'm not keen on. They need something more. I love the second hand and the way it matches the track. The five applied stars make it look like one of the old Orient models and were unnecessary. The date wheel colouring is a killer though. What were they thinking??
The SUF has the more dressy case shape, thickness and crown size to my mind and yet it would be too small for me. The colour leaves me conflicted. I like it, but not on this watch. I'd have preferred applied indices too and the black on the date wheel is jarring.

I don't think I'd buy any of the three for the money they're asking. Mind you, I'm more of a tool/dive watch kind of guy anyway, so that isn't surprising.

The 'enthusiast sect' comment was brilliant. Thanks for the chuckle on that one.


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## mkws

I have seen the Longines Spirit 40mm, 42mm and the 42mm chrono, and I am absolutely in love with the 40mm black dial version, which I intend to buy. Not too chunky for me, but that's purely subjective and I can see why would someone consider it too big for them. Longines's one definite failure is the chronograph version, with its thickness of over 16mm, having tried it on confirmed my suspicions of it being too bulky and heavy.


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## maxter

ill take the alpina too


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## DocHollidayDDS

Sorry, but that fire engine red dial on the SUF makes it look like a fashion watch to my eye. I’d take the Longines out of this group.


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## TXDirt

Once again a good read, I'd def wear the red one but not at that price point. I've looked at several Alpina watches but none have really caught my eye, good thing we have lots of other choices  .


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## SayNo2Babies

I have a black dial SUF 180 and wear it as my daily. I adore it. Great write up. Assembly and regulation at Sarpaneva's factory in Finland might be worth a mention for the SUF, and the fact that Stepan designed the font himself just for this watch


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## jspecht

Great write up. I have a dark blue SUF 180. The dial, finishing, and case shape give it an elegance that you usually don’t find in a field watch.


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## zeeper25

Nice comparisons, I will shorten my review of all of the divers I have owned to say that the most comfortable one happens to be the thinnest (Rado Captain Cook). 

Thin watches wear better even if you aren't concerned with dress sleeves (I wear polo's to work).


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## broadarrownati

I recently purchased the 44mm version of the Alpina. Startimers are heavly discounted right now. You can one for under $600.00. Love the watch, I think it has the most interesting dial. It has a great presence and personality. The lume does stink. Tips for the Longines being a chronometer and the salmon version of the SUF is stunning. Great piece.


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## airpoch

Love the simplicity and brightness of the SUF!


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## LCPD43057

that longines suf is gorgeous, thanks for the review


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## Vuldric

I dig the white numerals and dial combo on the Alpina, that'd be my choice.


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## BundyBear

Saw the Longines in the shops yesterday. Definitely my kind of watch.


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## cmmndrkeen

I've been absolutely smitten with the Longines since the moment I saw it. You hightlighted what I think are the worst aspects: the thickness, the date window execution, and (to a lesser extent) the L2L. Oh, and that bracelet! Yuck. But I don't anticipate that any of those aspects--except the bracelet--would hinder my enjoyment of the watch. The bracelet might be the dealbreaker for me.


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## ennobee

I've been wearing the sunburst blue SUF 180 as my daily for nearly a year now, and I have to say that your write up is spot on. The quality of the case finishing and its extremely wearable dimensons have nearly killed my watch collection, as anything thicker than 12mm suddenly seems too bulky. 9mm thick automatic with 10ATM water resistance is nothing to scoff at, especially when Panerai releases a dressier watch with a crown lock that's only rated at 3ATM. The crown operation on the SUF is buttery smooth and has very little play. The inner area of the lug that attaches to the case is so crisp and sharp that I'm fairly certain it's hand finished - most watches have that area raduis'd due to cheaper machining costs.

These watches also come in tons of dial colors and they've even started releasing models without a date, so there's plenty of options to pick from.

The SUF may seem expensive for a no-frills 3 hander, but you get what you pay for, and as absurd as it sounds, I think its actually competing with the likes of IWC.


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## DC guy

People commenting that they prefer the design of one watch over another are missing the point. 

The article is not about which watch is "better," but what you can expect to get as you move up price brackets within the same genre.


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## leastonh

DC guy said:


> People commenting that they prefer the design of one watch over another are missing the point.
> 
> The article is not about which watch is "better," but what you can expect to get as you move up price brackets within the same genre.


Hmm, 'better' is still subjective no matter how much you pay. Better than what? Yes, price factors in to what you can expect, but it doesn't always tally with what you receive.


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## DC guy

Um, I just said the article is NOT about which watch is better.

Personally I found the writeup quite insightful since I recently considered two of these watches when searching for a new field watch. I didn't have a full appreciation of what came with the higher price tags, apart from the chronometer movement in the Longines.


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## lucaloren

JustinMFrost said:


> Three hands, date windows, steel cases ranging from 38.7mm to 40mm in diameter, and Arabic numeral dials. This is not your average shoot-out, as we couldn't help but think it would make things more interesting if we took comparable watches and ratcheted up the price spectrum in $1,000 increments (roughly). What we're looking at today is the Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic ($1,084 USD), the Longines Spirit ($2,150 USD), and the S.U.F Helsinki 180 ($2,573.34 USD without VAT or $3,190.94 with VAT). Two came in for review, and one is a part of my personal collection, and all three are incredibly charming little field/tool/go-anywhere-do-anything/call-it-whatever-you-want watches that each have a healthy amount of appeal in their respective price brackets. This was an impromptu shoot, and a comparison that spawned from the fluke opportunity of having all three watches on hand at the same time. Sure, we could have stepped down the scale or up the scale, but this is where we landed. We're sure plenty of you will have options, suggestions, and criticism to throw into the comments section once you hit the end of the page. Did I mention they all also have solid casebacks?
> View attachment 16082170
> 
> *Deciding on a "Basic" Watch*
> 
> Before getting into how these three watches stack up against each other, first we make the case for why something like this belongs in your collection in the first place. Let's ignore diameter for a moment, knowing that not everyone likes a 40mm watch, the same way not everyone likes ANY particular case size. The idea behind a simple 3-hander with Arabic numerals and without a timing bezel is simple. It's a clean look that's more casual than a typical dress watch, but slim and simple enough to pass for "dressy". It ticks all the requisite boxes for a day-to-night transition piece for the same reasons that Rolex-obsessed collectors and editors go on about the Explorer incessantly (and at any available opportunity). Diversity within a watch collection is great, but so is the ability to wear one watch for everything, whether you're at home or hitting the road for a few days.
> View attachment 16082159
> 
> *Budget-Why Spend More?*
> 
> This is a touchy one as always, and one that I know I'll take heat on-I'm ready for it. Fact is, some people sweat different details differently for others. Some will say "the cheaper option looks great, why would I spend more?" and there's nothing wrong with that. Others will say "I really like the attention paid to details X, Y, and Z on the more expensive one, so why would I spend less?" and that's equally acceptable in my books. We've seen the never ending threads about the price of a watch not matching the sum of its parts based on what little information the enthusiast sect reads on the internet. We also know that this is not how the world works. Long story short, I'm going to go through the details of each of these watches, looking at a handful of key categories. We won't touch movement finishing, as the casebacks are closed. We won't touch movement accuracy, as I do not have appropriate measuring equipment available. Each brand has their respective accuracy specs available online, and all three watches carry warranties that will cover those matters should they arise. Instead we're going to focus on dials, hands, case dimensions and finishing, strap choices, and other little details that will often make or break a purchasing decision.
> View attachment 16082162
> 
> *Dials, Hands, and Dates, Oh My*
> 
> Looking at the dials and hands of the 180, the Spirit, and the Startimer, it's pretty obvious to say that one is a more traditional pilot than its two counterparts-if one follows the IWC pilot's watch aesthetic as the operating baseline. Let's ignore that for a moment. The first noteworthy difference at hand here is that the S.U.F is the only watch in the trio that has a printed dial; both the Longines and Alpina are fitted with applied indices filled with luminous material. To some, applied indices will always trump printing, however the execution of the S.U.F is quite flawless. Its numerals and railroad minute track are printed in a silver finish, and the white plots at each hour (including the batons at 3-6-9 and triangle at 12) are luminous. I had high hopes for the lume on both of the others, but unfortunately the Alpina falls quite short of the other two. With even a modest blast of daylight the Longines glows like a torch, and the smaller plots of the S.U.F 180 also delivers an appropriate level of legibility. Apologies for the lack of a lume shot, but trust me when I say that the Alpina was underwhelming.
> View attachment 16082161
> 
> From a dial finish standpoint, both the Longines and Alpina dials have a matte finish, whereas the S.U.F is glossy. That said, the black and silver/white dial variants of the 180 are offered with a matte grained finish. If we were to go apples-to-apples, the Longines dial does come across as the most elaborate, detailed, and spendy of the pack. Aside from its applied numerals, the polished silver ring located to the inside of the minute track adds an additional bit of character that immediately stands out when it catches a touch of sunlight. I could do without the addition of the five applied stars above the "chronometer" reference on the dial, though this is a historical detail that references vintage Longines models (specifically the Admiral 5 Star from the '70s). In contrast, the Alpina Startimer's dial is stark, with simple utilitarian black printing throughout with black hands to match. In this white guise, the touch of red at 12 o'clock and on its seconds hand counterbalance adds a nice pop of color, as does the red tip of the seconds hand of the Longines.
> View attachment 16082160
> 
> While we're talking hands, once again we're pretty much ranking as Longines, S.U.F, and Alpina as our one-two-three. From a quality of execution standpoint, the S.U.F and Longines are pretty much apples to apples, with the upper hand going to Longines for the added detail seen in its seconds hand. Aside from the contrasting red detail, the use of a trapezoid "lollipop" tip that matches the small trapezoid indices every 5 minutes is a slick little detail. When we get to the Alpina Startimer, those hands just fall flat. The leaflike profile isn't well suited to the rest of the dial, and if anything the amount of black on the hands seems to overpower the white dial.
> View attachment 16082163
> 
> Lastly, as we take a peek at the date windows, we're on a level playing field. None of the three brands in play opted to frame the date windows of their respective references, and all opted for fairly ubiquitous date wheels. The Alpina disc is obviously stock issue, based on its appearance, and unfortunately the line weight of the numerals pales in contrast to the line weight of any of the black details found on its dial. Longines, on the other hand, went a little weird by using a faux-aged beige for its date wheel numerals, that don't quite match the luminous application on the hands or dial. It's not bad, but it is also a hair out of place. S.U.F, lastly, went with a black date disc to support the red dial, which looks better than white would have. With a red dial, I can't help but think that a red date disc would be a hindrance to legibility of a standard-sized date.
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> *The Case of the Cases-Where The True Differences Shine*
> 
> As noted in our intro, these watches run pretty close to one another in diameter, but can you tell which is which based on the imagery provided? The Longines and Alpina both measure 40mm across, and the S.U.F is 38.7mm. While the diameter difference is nominal, the HUGE differences lie in the design of the lugs of each of these cases, as well as in their respective case thicknesses. Let's go through the specs first. The S.U.F Helsinki 180 has a 20mm lug width, and measures 46.4mm from lug to lug, and 8.9mm thick. The Longines Spirit has 21mm lugs, it's 49.6mm lug to lug, and 12.5mm thick. Lastly the Alpina Startimer Pilot has 20mm lugs, and measures 48.5mm lug to lug, and 10.25mm thick. The Longines Spirit is hands-down the most "misleading" 40mm watch of the pack, as those long, flat, burly lugs occupy a ton of real estate, almost disproportionately in contrast to its compact dial aperture. The Alpina's case is the most traditional in dimensions for the category, I'd argue, wearing as one comes to expect from the 40mm diameter category after years of trying on/testing/reviewing watches for a living. In contrast, the compact S.U.F is downright svelte-a huge part of its charm.
> View attachment 16082164
> 
> Two of three (the Alpina and Longines) use screw-down crowns to achieve 100m (or 10 ATM, or 10 Bar) of water resistance, whereas the S.U.F 180 relies on gaskets to get the job done. None of the watches have a "bad" crown, per se, though I did find the gasket position in the Alpina crown to create some unwarranted drag when screwing the crown down to the point of feeling like it's on the verge of cross threading. I also found its conical crown shape to be the most prone of the three to dig into my wrist from time to time. Though not nearly as bad as some other offenders I've experienced over the years (my Ming was notoriously bad for this), it's still a point worth noting.
> View attachment 16082165
> 
> When it comes to case finishing, the three watches very much run in line with their respective price brackets. The Alpina feels very "off the production line", in that there is not a lot of fine or detailed work in its case design whatsoever, and rather it airs on the side of utility. Minor polished bevels flare out from the case flanks to the tip of its lugs, but there's nothing dramatic going on otherwise. The Longines is more refined with consistent beveling from end to end, however the machined edges on the inside of the lugs provide clear insight into its mass-produced status. This again is not so much a critique but rather an expression of what we've come to expect from any of the big players in this $2k automatic price category. From stem to stern the case of the S.U.F 180 is a different animal. A polished concave curve bezel with crisp edges steps down into the flanks of the case. Lug beveling is faint but consistent. Its lugs mate into the tight edges of the case barrel. The brushing of the case is also far more refined and consistent than that of its counterparts, as the image above clearly reveals. It's all these details-these minor and to some inconsequential details-that sets the S.U.F apart by a fair margin.
> View attachment 16082166
> 
> *Fits and Straps*
> 
> I'll do my best to be a bit less long-winded with this category, as it's a pretty simple one to rattle off. When talking straps, The Alpina isn't bad but clearly needs a good amount of break-in time that couldn't be accomplished over the course of a 2 or 3 week review rotation. The Longines strap on the other hand felt rather well broken in from day one, and it also came on a factory bracelet that I found made the watch feel obnoxiously disproportionate (too much metal, not enough dial). The S.U.F strap I can't fairly speak to, as the straps that mine is equipped with are not the standard calfskin leather that the new watch would deliver with. It's pin buckles all around for this trio, and I'm not complaining about that either (a personal choice, but deployant clasps are seldom good these days as far as I'm concerned, unless you're shopping in a higher price bracket).
> View attachment 16082167
> 
> On the wrist, as someone with a 6 and ¾ inch wrist, the Alpina and S.U.F are winners, and the Longines is chunkier than I would like it to be. If you're one of countless folks on here with larger wrists, the Longines is a great fit, but it's the least adaptable for those of you that consider yourselves to have more slender wrists. There's also the matter of versatility to consider, and to be fair none of the options are perfect. The S.U.F's compact dimensions are bound to trigger some psychologically, in that a watch this slender isn't suited for day-to-day use and abuse. Meanwhile the visual heft of the Longines Spirit is almost overbearing, to the point that sneaking it under a cuff might be a bit iffy. It's better than doing so with a Submariner or IWC Big Pilot, mind you, but it's still not ideal.
> View attachment 16082168
> 
> *The Guts and Closing Thoughts*
> 
> Three different watches, and three different calibers all stand before us. The Alpina is powered by the Alpina AL-525, which is a rebranded Sellita SW200 with a power reserve of 38h. The Longines is the highest spec movement on paper, with a Chronometer-certified ETA-based caliber L888.4. This movement bumps its beat rate down to 3.5 Hz or 25,000 vibrations per hour (compared to the 4 Hz or 28,800 VPH of the two other movements seen here) in order to achieve a longer 72h power reserve. The S.U.F on the other hand uses the less common and more expensive Soprod A10 caliber, which is generally more nicely finished, uses a Glucydur antimagnetic balance, and delivers a power reserve of 42 hours. As we mentioned, we cannot speak to the finishing of any of the above calibers due to the closed nature of the casebacks.
> View attachment 16082169
> 
> At the end of the day, these three watches are equal parts similar and vastly different from one another-each of which align relatively well in their respective price brackets without being overpriced or a huge bargain for what they deliver. I've already spoken with my dollar, having purchased the S.U.F 180. This was done prior to the other models launching, but even with the other contenders in the ring, I wouldn't change my mind.
> 
> What about you? Which of this trio tickles your fancy and why? All of them? None of them? Let's hear why in the comments below.
> 
> *See More of the Alpina Startimer Pilot*
> 
> *See More of the Longines Spirit*
> 
> *See More of the S.U.F Helsinki 180*


Thank you for the in-depth write up on these 3 pieces. As you indicate in your write up the arguments based on which piece is nicer/better value/appealing are all very much subjective to the individual. A large part of this subjectivity is measured by different aspects of a watch, each specific to an individual.
I donot own any of these watches but have researched them in my effort to find an every day watch. To me the Longines is right up there as a good contender but the lug-lug distance makes it borderline for my wrist and the placement of that date window so far away from the chapter ring makes the dial look unbalanced. The Alpina is last in my evaluation as it comes across with a dial that is far too busy and overt for the type of watch it is supposed to be. The SUF has intrigued me for a while now, the dimensions and dial look to be spot on for me but the price (at least to land it in Australia) puts it into a different class of watch, which is largely why I haven't purchased it....yet!


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## SkyMustang

Just going by the pictures for I have not held any of them in-hand, I have a preference for the Longines. To me it seems the case shape and colour hue are nicer and the overall proportions more agreeable. In very closses second I'll go with the Alpina. In some ways I prefer the less contrast of the dial versus the numerals but it's close between that and the Longines.

Although I've never held any of these three watches, I've been up close with the Longines and Alpina but cannot say the same of the SUF and it could be the reason it comes third in my estimation (even though I prefer the 10mm case thickness over the Longines' 14mm); but third does not mean it's a bad looking watch at all, just from the pictures that's how I feel.

Nice review btw. Thanks.


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## dklaiman

I'm wearing a different Alpina as I write this. It's a beautiful watch, wears well on my 7.25 inch wrist, and goes with just about anything. That being said, and I've only seen it in pictures, the SUF--especially without the date--is just stunning.


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## Maxbliss888

Longines or Alpina for me as never heard of the third brand. Key concern is the after sales service and availability of spare parts…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## d_himan

I managed to preorder the Startimer 40 white from my AD at ~$580 and at this price, I'm extremely happy with the price-value equation for my skinny 6.5 inch wrist.


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## raggaeluv

Thanks for the write up! I love the Longines. Something about that dial.


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## RetiredKarlMarx

JustinMFrost said:


> Three hands, date windows, steel cases ranging from 38.7mm to 40mm in diameter, and Arabic numeral dials. This is not your average shoot-out, as we couldn't help but think it would make things more interesting if we took comparable watches and ratcheted up the price spectrum in $1,000 increments (roughly). What we're looking at today is the Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic ($1,084 USD), the Longines Spirit ($2,150 USD), and the S.U.F Helsinki 180 ($2,573.34 USD without VAT or $3,190.94 with VAT). Two came in for review, and one is a part of my personal collection, and all three are incredibly charming little field/tool/go-anywhere-do-anything/call-it-whatever-you-want watches that each have a healthy amount of appeal in their respective price brackets. This was an impromptu shoot, and a comparison that spawned from the fluke opportunity of having all three watches on hand at the same time. Sure, we could have stepped down the scale or up the scale, but this is where we landed. We're sure plenty of you will have options, suggestions, and criticism to throw into the comments section once you hit the end of the page. Did I mention they all also have solid casebacks?
> View attachment 16082170
> 
> *Deciding on a "Basic" Watch*
> 
> Before getting into how these three watches stack up against each other, first we make the case for why something like this belongs in your collection in the first place. Let's ignore diameter for a moment, knowing that not everyone likes a 40mm watch, the same way not everyone likes ANY particular case size. The idea behind a simple 3-hander with Arabic numerals and without a timing bezel is simple. It's a clean look that's more casual than a typical dress watch, but slim and simple enough to pass for "dressy". It ticks all the requisite boxes for a day-to-night transition piece for the same reasons that Rolex-obsessed collectors and editors go on about the Explorer incessantly (and at any available opportunity). Diversity within a watch collection is great, but so is the ability to wear one watch for everything, whether you're at home or hitting the road for a few days.
> View attachment 16082159
> 
> *Budget-Why Spend More?*
> 
> This is a touchy one as always, and one that I know I'll take heat on-I'm ready for it. Fact is, some people sweat different details differently for others. Some will say "the cheaper option looks great, why would I spend more?" and there's nothing wrong with that. Others will say "I really like the attention paid to details X, Y, and Z on the more expensive one, so why would I spend less?" and that's equally acceptable in my books. We've seen the never ending threads about the price of a watch not matching the sum of its parts based on what little information the enthusiast sect reads on the internet. We also know that this is not how the world works. Long story short, I'm going to go through the details of each of these watches, looking at a handful of key categories. We won't touch movement finishing, as the casebacks are closed. We won't touch movement accuracy, as I do not have appropriate measuring equipment available. Each brand has their respective accuracy specs available online, and all three watches carry warranties that will cover those matters should they arise. Instead we're going to focus on dials, hands, case dimensions and finishing, strap choices, and other little details that will often make or break a purchasing decision.
> View attachment 16082162
> 
> *Dials, Hands, and Dates, Oh My*
> 
> Looking at the dials and hands of the 180, the Spirit, and the Startimer, it's pretty obvious to say that one is a more traditional pilot than its two counterparts-if one follows the IWC pilot's watch aesthetic as the operating baseline. Let's ignore that for a moment. The first noteworthy difference at hand here is that the S.U.F is the only watch in the trio that has a printed dial; both the Longines and Alpina are fitted with applied indices filled with luminous material. To some, applied indices will always trump printing, however the execution of the S.U.F is quite flawless. Its numerals and railroad minute track are printed in a silver finish, and the white plots at each hour (including the batons at 3-6-9 and triangle at 12) are luminous. I had high hopes for the lume on both of the others, but unfortunately the Alpina falls quite short of the other two. With even a modest blast of daylight the Longines glows like a torch, and the smaller plots of the S.U.F 180 also delivers an appropriate level of legibility. Apologies for the lack of a lume shot, but trust me when I say that the Alpina was underwhelming.
> View attachment 16082161
> 
> From a dial finish standpoint, both the Longines and Alpina dials have a matte finish, whereas the S.U.F is glossy. That said, the black and silver/white dial variants of the 180 are offered with a matte grained finish. If we were to go apples-to-apples, the Longines dial does come across as the most elaborate, detailed, and spendy of the pack. Aside from its applied numerals, the polished silver ring located to the inside of the minute track adds an additional bit of character that immediately stands out when it catches a touch of sunlight. I could do without the addition of the five applied stars above the "chronometer" reference on the dial, though this is a historical detail that references vintage Longines models (specifically the Admiral 5 Star from the '70s). In contrast, the Alpina Startimer's dial is stark, with simple utilitarian black printing throughout with black hands to match. In this white guise, the touch of red at 12 o'clock and on its seconds hand counterbalance adds a nice pop of color, as does the red tip of the seconds hand of the Longines.
> View attachment 16082160
> 
> While we're talking hands, once again we're pretty much ranking as Longines, S.U.F, and Alpina as our one-two-three. From a quality of execution standpoint, the S.U.F and Longines are pretty much apples to apples, with the upper hand going to Longines for the added detail seen in its seconds hand. Aside from the contrasting red detail, the use of a trapezoid "lollipop" tip that matches the small trapezoid indices every 5 minutes is a slick little detail. When we get to the Alpina Startimer, those hands just fall flat. The leaflike profile isn't well suited to the rest of the dial, and if anything the amount of black on the hands seems to overpower the white dial.
> View attachment 16082163
> 
> Lastly, as we take a peek at the date windows, we're on a level playing field. None of the three brands in play opted to frame the date windows of their respective references, and all opted for fairly ubiquitous date wheels. The Alpina disc is obviously stock issue, based on its appearance, and unfortunately the line weight of the numerals pales in contrast to the line weight of any of the black details found on its dial. Longines, on the other hand, went a little weird by using a faux-aged beige for its date wheel numerals, that don't quite match the luminous application on the hands or dial. It's not bad, but it is also a hair out of place. S.U.F, lastly, went with a black date disc to support the red dial, which looks better than white would have. With a red dial, I can't help but think that a red date disc would be a hindrance to legibility of a standard-sized date.
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> *The Case of the Cases-Where The True Differences Shine*
> 
> As noted in our intro, these watches run pretty close to one another in diameter, but can you tell which is which based on the imagery provided? The Longines and Alpina both measure 40mm across, and the S.U.F is 38.7mm. While the diameter difference is nominal, the HUGE differences lie in the design of the lugs of each of these cases, as well as in their respective case thicknesses. Let's go through the specs first. The S.U.F Helsinki 180 has a 20mm lug width, and measures 46.4mm from lug to lug, and 8.9mm thick. The Longines Spirit has 21mm lugs, it's 49.6mm lug to lug, and 12.5mm thick. Lastly the Alpina Startimer Pilot has 20mm lugs, and measures 48.5mm lug to lug, and 10.25mm thick. The Longines Spirit is hands-down the most "misleading" 40mm watch of the pack, as those long, flat, burly lugs occupy a ton of real estate, almost disproportionately in contrast to its compact dial aperture. The Alpina's case is the most traditional in dimensions for the category, I'd argue, wearing as one comes to expect from the 40mm diameter category after years of trying on/testing/reviewing watches for a living. In contrast, the compact S.U.F is downright svelte-a huge part of its charm.
> View attachment 16082164
> 
> Two of three (the Alpina and Longines) use screw-down crowns to achieve 100m (or 10 ATM, or 10 Bar) of water resistance, whereas the S.U.F 180 relies on gaskets to get the job done. None of the watches have a "bad" crown, per se, though I did find the gasket position in the Alpina crown to create some unwarranted drag when screwing the crown down to the point of feeling like it's on the verge of cross threading. I also found its conical crown shape to be the most prone of the three to dig into my wrist from time to time. Though not nearly as bad as some other offenders I've experienced over the years (my Ming was notoriously bad for this), it's still a point worth noting.
> View attachment 16082165
> 
> When it comes to case finishing, the three watches very much run in line with their respective price brackets. The Alpina feels very "off the production line", in that there is not a lot of fine or detailed work in its case design whatsoever, and rather it airs on the side of utility. Minor polished bevels flare out from the case flanks to the tip of its lugs, but there's nothing dramatic going on otherwise. The Longines is more refined with consistent beveling from end to end, however the machined edges on the inside of the lugs provide clear insight into its mass-produced status. This again is not so much a critique but rather an expression of what we've come to expect from any of the big players in this $2k automatic price category. From stem to stern the case of the S.U.F 180 is a different animal. A polished concave curve bezel with crisp edges steps down into the flanks of the case. Lug beveling is faint but consistent. Its lugs mate into the tight edges of the case barrel. The brushing of the case is also far more refined and consistent than that of its counterparts, as the image above clearly reveals. It's all these details-these minor and to some inconsequential details-that sets the S.U.F apart by a fair margin.
> View attachment 16082166
> 
> *Fits and Straps*
> 
> I'll do my best to be a bit less long-winded with this category, as it's a pretty simple one to rattle off. When talking straps, The Alpina isn't bad but clearly needs a good amount of break-in time that couldn't be accomplished over the course of a 2 or 3 week review rotation. The Longines strap on the other hand felt rather well broken in from day one, and it also came on a factory bracelet that I found made the watch feel obnoxiously disproportionate (too much metal, not enough dial). The S.U.F strap I can't fairly speak to, as the straps that mine is equipped with are not the standard calfskin leather that the new watch would deliver with. It's pin buckles all around for this trio, and I'm not complaining about that either (a personal choice, but deployant clasps are seldom good these days as far as I'm concerned, unless you're shopping in a higher price bracket).
> View attachment 16082167
> 
> On the wrist, as someone with a 6 and ¾ inch wrist, the Alpina and S.U.F are winners, and the Longines is chunkier than I would like it to be. If you're one of countless folks on here with larger wrists, the Longines is a great fit, but it's the least adaptable for those of you that consider yourselves to have more slender wrists. There's also the matter of versatility to consider, and to be fair none of the options are perfect. The S.U.F's compact dimensions are bound to trigger some psychologically, in that a watch this slender isn't suited for day-to-day use and abuse. Meanwhile the visual heft of the Longines Spirit is almost overbearing, to the point that sneaking it under a cuff might be a bit iffy. It's better than doing so with a Submariner or IWC Big Pilot, mind you, but it's still not ideal.
> View attachment 16082168
> 
> *The Guts and Closing Thoughts*
> 
> Three different watches, and three different calibers all stand before us. The Alpina is powered by the Alpina AL-525, which is a rebranded Sellita SW200 with a power reserve of 38h. The Longines is the highest spec movement on paper, with a Chronometer-certified ETA-based caliber L888.4. This movement bumps its beat rate down to 3.5 Hz or 25,000 vibrations per hour (compared to the 4 Hz or 28,800 VPH of the two other movements seen here) in order to achieve a longer 72h power reserve. The S.U.F on the other hand uses the less common and more expensive Soprod A10 caliber, which is generally more nicely finished, uses a Glucydur antimagnetic balance, and delivers a power reserve of 42 hours. As we mentioned, we cannot speak to the finishing of any of the above calibers due to the closed nature of the casebacks.
> View attachment 16082169
> 
> At the end of the day, these three watches are equal parts similar and vastly different from one another-each of which align relatively well in their respective price brackets without being overpriced or a huge bargain for what they deliver. I've already spoken with my dollar, having purchased the S.U.F 180. This was done prior to the other models launching, but even with the other contenders in the ring, I wouldn't change my mind.
> 
> What about you? Which of this trio tickles your fancy and why? All of them? None of them? Let's hear why in the comments below.
> 
> *See More of the Alpina Startimer Pilot*
> 
> *See More of the Longines Spirit*
> 
> *See More of the S.U.F Helsinki 180*


Thank you for the write-up. I think it was one of your previous articles that pushed me towards the SUF. Proud owner of the Frosted Salmon variant and it is by FAR the most surprising watch I ever received. Every single detail of it managed to exceed my expectations (especially case finishing). I would also highlight how "precise" the dial is. Note how precisely the length of the hand matches the minute track and the clever positioning of the date window. I was considering it vs the IWC and I am so glad I went with SUF. Maybe should have bought the glossy or matte dial versions, as it fits the character of the watch more. But that heat-blued seconds hand on the sparkly frosted salmon dial gets me every time.


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## WatchAddicted21

Thanks for this, very well written. That longines definitely seems great specially for the price


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## Pedro Sousa

Great review, great watches. Thanks


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## judsonbishop

It's the Longines for me. They have been killing it lately.


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## spoolmakdays

That Alpina has the world's ugliest crown. The Longines crown is a close second as far as strange looking protuberances go. And I wouldn't wear a red dialed watch ever. Anyways, they're all nice watches, as far as getting what you pay for. The SUF with a neutral dial is the winner in my books.


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## Pavilions

I don't know but something about Longines keeps attracting me to buy one.


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## a-ro123

The longines is for sure the winner out of the 3, better overall brand as well


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## usd97

Longiness any day of the week!


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## cool302002

usd97 said:


> Longiness any day of the week!


ok


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## Masterbuilder46

Neat comparison and something Ive always asked myself - at what price point do you start to see a difference. Initially, this question proved to me the value of JDM Seiko's! Compared to $1k - 1.5k watches, I feel they are super equal.


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## CharlieS

Thanks for taking the time to make this!


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## Longi

Recently I actually open a discussion but for Longines Spirit vs Oris Propilot. Both normal and the Chrono type are great


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## Robotaz

As much as I love that Longines, the Alpina is hot as hell.


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## Jhutch50

Love the Alpina.


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## albaikin101

hey, thanks for posting this article keep writing more useful content. https://www.al-baik.in/


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## d_himan

The 40mm wears so well.








I love the look. At $530, i like the value too.


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## leonbeast

rather go with a seamasterplanet ocean


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## Buck67

I'm a big fan of the Longines Spirit, but I like this one best. Don't want a date window in my field watch


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## dklaiman

I loved the turquoise version of the SUF 180, and I have to say that if I had the cash and were in the market for another watch, I'd be really tempted to pull the trigger on the gray dialed version: 180G. I'm not sure the display back adds anything to the watch, but the dial and the overall sensibility of the speak to me.


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## Gerrard8

Thanks for the detailed comparison.
It seems to me the date window cutting and finish on SUF is not top notch. I only judge it from photos I saw. It may not be true. 
I used to own a Damasko DA45, that toolish and unrefined date window cutting bothered me.

You might also want to take the older or the latest Fortis flieger into consideration.
Older version is at sub 1000 usd region, newer version much more expensive.


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## yosukesan

Is there any dial colour variations for SUF ? Orange vs white ish grey contrast is very hard to read for me. I think blue or black index are better.


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## Mr.Timepiece

I think it's the Longines for me - though I do not own one I have always been intrigued by them!


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## CousinVinny

d_himan said:


> The 40mm wears so well.
> View attachment 16249495
> 
> I love the look. At $530, i like the value too.


That band and dial color combo is killer 


Sent from my grubby thumbs


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## KRONO TIMEPIECES

Good read and comparison. Not a fan of the red dial. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nebulight

Thanks for taking the time to do this write up. I'm considering an SUF 180 and you confirmed my assumptions about the price/quality ratio. Looks to be worth the cost of admission. Thanks again.


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## [email protected]

That red on the SUF is beautiful. Semi dull and glossy


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## N30P

Love the SUF, but the red doesn’f seem like a GADA watch, but a fun weekend watch. Its got a very nice color though. My favorite was definitely the Longines, it looks really clean and sleek, but the lug to lug is definitely a gripe.


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## mapf2000

I'm a sucker for white dials...That Alpina


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## Jericho.dedios

That white dial on Alpina looks G O O D


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## BundyBear

Yeah, that’s three votes for the white dial Alpina


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## dlmypr

great wrap up and review


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## packermover69

I think you are right but i want to discuss about Best Packers And Movers In Allahabad Which is Great Packers


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## ChrisBien

I've never come across Alpina before but this one here is _amazing_. I don't see anything quite like that on their website anymore. I'm not sure I would ever spend more than $2k on a watch (although I am quite new here) so I'm pleased that I like the $1000 one the most!



> The idea behind a simple 3-hander with Arabic numerals and without a timing bezel is simple. It's a clean look that's more casual than a typical dress watch, but slim and simple enough to pass for "dressy".


I recently got a Sinn 556A and I think it fits this description fairly well.


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## KaiRoMa4D

Great read!! Thank you for the comprehsive breakdowns


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## Nelo1404

Crisker said:


> Alpina for the dial design win.


Hard to compete with Alpina


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