# A vital tip on achieving a fine brushed finish on stainless steel watch bracelets using sandpaper



## tayyabpirzada

So my Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra developed a few scratches on the bracelet and I thought I would try out a refinishing method which is wildly popular online (especially on Watchuseek) and among the WIS community, which is to use Scotchbrite pads and refinishing blocks to remove scratches and restore the brushed finishing on the bracelet.

So what I did is use the green scouring Scotchbrite pad first (very abrasive) and tried to make uniform lines. However the lines really stood out and it looked frankly really ugly to my eyes. After that I used a Sandflex Fine refinishing block, which I had used earlier on the clasp of my Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 and had done an amazing job for. However, even with the Sandflex fine brushing, it still produced those lines which I found looked mediocre and cheapened the watch. So I used Cape Cod polishing cloth on the bracelet afterwards (and a lot of it) to maybe remove the lines a bit. Unfortunately it just made it really shiny but the lines were still very visible.

You can see in the below pictures the result of that.
















So instead what I did is I used sandpaper (by 3M) in the following order, trying to brush evenly each times in single-stroke movements (not going back and forth but in a long single stroke; this is the same method of finishing I did with the Scotchbrite and Sandflex too): 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit, and 2500 grit (in that order).

And then I used a very mild application of Cape Cod to finish it off, and then put some water on it and wiped it all off.

The result (as seen in the pictures below) were absolutely phenomenal and looks like factory finishing. No brush lines or grains are visible due to the fine finishing of the 2500 grit sandpaper, and it's not too shiny but not too dull either.
















I don't know if the other grits of sandpaper were necessary, but I will be stocking up on 2500 grit sandpaper and Cape Cod polishing cloth for sure.

P.S. I should also note that I used all methods (finishing block, scotchbrite, and sandpaper) while wet as this helped increase the efficiency of brushing.


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## Ginseng108

Nice work. I'm a big fan of the 3M Imperial Wet/Dry sandpapers. Top notch stuff and works great on aluminum, titanium, and steel. Definitely use wet.


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## Michael Maddan

I think you did a good job...anytime a non-professional attempts to refinish a case, there seems to be more than just a little Luck involved...sometimes the result is impressive, other times, not!

I saw a video some time ago ( YouTube ?) that dealt with a Professional case restorer...not someone making believe...and I was really impressed with his knowledge and technique...there's a lot going on when it's time to redo a case... Michael.


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## JPCass

I came here looking for some updated ideas on restoring brushed steel finishes, and thought I should add my experience with polishing and refinishing a variety of items including jewelry and antiques.

I agree with some other comments that the Scotchbrite method is a questionable one. It might work on some watches that have a certain finish grade that it works with, or on watches or areas of watch bands that don't really matter, but I don't think that it can be relied upon to do a good job of restoring finishes.

In my experience, the two most important things in restoring brushed finishes are:

* To know, in advance, what grade of abrasive it will be necessary to end up with, to match the desired finish

* To have a good technique worked out for getting straight, even brush marks without curving or swirls, and to match the edges on the piece - edges that were originally sharp need to be maintained that way, not rounded over, while edges that were rounded need to be restored to their original profile in a separate step

My suggestion on those two points is to go to the hardware store and get some stainless steel washers and at least one bolt, to practice on and to use as samples for the finish produced by various grades of abrasive.

3M sandpaper is indeed some of the best. Auto supply stores often sell some of the finer sandpaper grades necessary. It's also possible on Amazon to purchase packs of a variety of sheets, and smaller size sheets. Flex-i-files can also be a good choice for finer work and getting into tight spaces, with their pads and cone tip sanders - they also offer a variety of other useful abrasives and tools:

- Flex-i-File and Touch-n-Flow System Hobby Files









I think that some Flex-I-files or something similar are available at Hobby Lobby - though a good hobby or jeweler's supply store is great for that and other supplies and equipment, if you can find one. MicroMark sells some, but I think not all, of the Flex-I-file products online, and is a good source for other tools and equipment.

Getting even brush finishing requires having the abrasive perfectly parallel to the surface during the whole pass, using either sandpaper mounted on a flat surface (or even laying on one) or a file-type abrasive. If starting with a rougher grade of abrasive is required to take off a lot of material, it's necessary to plan for that and to be practiced at it - starting with too rough a grade, will result in deep scratches that don't fully come out in subsequent passes, especially in preparation for polished finishes (see next). It's better to err on the side of just doing a lot of passes with finer grades.

Also, polished steel finishes can be restored with steel buffing compound on a miniature felt wheel mounted in a Dremel power tool. However, that's only good for final finishing, not material removal; if the surface does need to be taken down a bit, then that needs to be done with successive grades of fine abrasives, until the surface is ready for final polishing. Buffing can lessen the visibility of scratches and gouges by smoothing off their edges, but such damage marks often turn out on close inspection to have raised edges and gouging, which then need to be worked down even with the original surface using abrasives before polishing.


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## pithy

JPCass said:


> . . . Also, polished steel finishes can be restored with steel buffing compound on a miniature felt wheel mounted in a Dremel power tool. . . .


Stop.

If you want to apply a waveform pattern of crests and troughs you have recommended the optimal tool.

The minimum acceptable buff diameter for polishing is five (5) inches.

Seven (7) inches is better for many applications.


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## JPCass

pithy said:


> Stop.
> 
> If you want to apply a waveform pattern of crests and troughs you have recommended the optimal tool.
> 
> The minimum acceptable buff diameter for polishing is five (5) inches.
> 
> Seven (7) inches is better for many applications.


There are sorts of specialized things that can be done with a tool like a Dremel and its various attachments, but that's a topic of a more in-depth discussion.

I understand that larger polishing buffs are used on larger applications, but aren't they too big for watch work? There is a reason that small felt, cotton and muslin buffs exist, and are sold at jewelry and watchmaking suppliers like Esslinger:







https://www.esslinger.com/miniature-buff-polishing-wheel-assortment/








https://www.esslinger.com/replaceme...-polishing-and-buffing-machine-motor-47-0215/

Then there are also the new miniature abrasive synthetic wheels and buffs that I'm only starting to get used to, but that jewelers seem to be pretty fond of these days.


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## Iandk

I use small abrasive wheels and such on a small rotary tool... for small, organic shapes only (under quarter-inch or so).

Anything with larger/flat areas, goes on the large wheel on bench lathe. Hard to keep the surface even enough otherwise.


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## pithy

Iandk said:


> I use small abrasive wheels and such on a small rotary tool... for small, organic shapes only (under quarter-inch or so). Anything with larger/flat areas, goes on the large wheel on bench lathe. Hard to keep the surface even enough otherwise.


The Foredom flexshaft is excellent for cutting and burr work on small jewelry pieces.

The compact hand piece can be wielded with precision allowing for accurate cutting and carving even on micro scale work performed under 10x magnification.

The hanging motor offers a surplus of torque while the foot rheostat allows an almost infinite speed range.

Polishing watches is performed on dust collector equipped bench motors.


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## Iandk

Got one of those, though not of the Foredom brand; the flex shaft needs replacing though. Most of the time I don't need the torque it provides, so a micromotor handpiece (with foot rheostat) gets the most use since it provides just a tad bit more mobility than the flex shaft.

That said, I've avoided doing anything with watch cases thus far. A bezel here and a bracelet there. Non-geometric shapes are more... forgiving.


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## pithy

Iandk said:


> . . . . a micromotor handpiece (with foot rheostat) gets the most use since it provides just a tad bit more mobility than the flex shaft. . . . .


5/8" diameter.


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## Iandk

Almost the same one. 

I just prefer the thin electrical cord vs. the stiffer shaft when I have to move the handpiece around a lot, which tends to be the case most of the time for access & visibility.

(Anyhow, topic derailment, would not recommend for watch case )


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## Archer

JPCass said:


> I understand that larger polishing buffs are used on larger applications, but aren't they too big for watch work?


I took these photos in the case finishing room at the JLC factory in Le Sentier...









Note the size of the buffs being used there.

In any brand training I've ever received on refinishing, none recommended or promoted the use of motorized handpieces with small buffs. Variable speed bench lathe with larger buffs are the industry standard, and it's typically only hobbyists that use things like Dremels.

Cheers, Al


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## JPCass

Iandk said:


> I use small abrasive wheels and such on a small rotary tool... for small, organic shapes only (under quarter-inch or so).
> 
> Anything with larger/flat areas, goes on the large wheel on bench lathe. Hard to keep the surface even enough otherwise.


I'd agree that large buffs are better for larger or flat areas, like case backs - with the one exception that with a small chamois buff I can put a fine finish on, or at least polish up a rough older finish, without taking much material off, particularly on the high points and edges that are subject to excessive wear and that a larger buff is also likely to hit hard, which is particularly an issue working on vintage watches with GF (filled) or RGP (rolled) finishes on top of base metal - and especially on electroplate.


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## JPCass

Iandk said:


> Got one of those, though not of the Foredom brand; the flex shaft needs replacing though. Most of the time I don't need the torque it provides, so a micromotor handpiece (with foot rheostat) gets the most use since it provides just a tad bit more mobility than the flex shaft.
> 
> That said, I've avoided doing anything with watch cases thus far. A bezel here and a bracelet there. Non-geometric shapes are more... forgiving.


You can do a lot - it just takes practice. The hard felt buffs, available in various shapes and sizes, help match the area being worked on and keep the polished surface remaining flat - sometimes to maintain or restore a polished flat surface, it's best to go over it first with extremely fine abrasive on a flat backing (see previous discussion about getting good results on brushed finishes) to take off a bit of material and flatten the surface, including the raised edges of dings and gouges (even microscopic ones), and then do a final polish.

A main reason that I learned to do my own case work, is that a lot of jewelers and watchmakers aren't good at it, and I had trouble getting work done up to my standards. I can do better work at my kitchen table (how I started out, though I now have a workshop - but I still sometimes prefer to work upstairs) with a Dremel. than a lot of guys with a bench.


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## JPCass

Archer said:


> In any brand training I've ever received on refinishing, none recommended or promoted the use of motorized handpieces with small buffs. Variable speed bench lathe with larger buffs are the industry standard, and it's typically only hobbyists that use things like Dremels.
> 
> Cheers, Al


Thanks a lot for the photos, that's interesting to see.

I have a hard time imagining how they get into the corners of a watch case, like the inside of lugs and the adjacent area, but it looks like they maintain a pretty sharp edge on those buffs, and obviously they have worked out a technique.

Yes, for a hobbyist, or even a small shop, a small tool like a Dremel probably offers more control. As I alluded to in another comment, I've had pieces practically ruined by shops with a bench-mount polisher - and someone who obviously didn't apprentice on the finish line at a Swiss watch factory


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## Archer

JPCass said:


> Thanks a lot for the photos, that's interesting to see.
> 
> I have a hard time imagining how they get into the corners of a watch case, like the inside of lugs and the adjacent area, but it looks like they maintain a pretty sharp edge on those buffs, and obviously they have worked out a technique.
> 
> Yes, for a hobbyist, or even a small shop, a small tool like a Dremel probably offers more control. As I alluded to in another comment, I've had pieces practically ruined by shops with a bench-mount polisher - and someone who obviously didn't apprentice on the finish line at a Swiss watch factory


Refinishing is a skill like any other, which takes time and practice to become proficient at. You are quite right that for many it seems a good lean on the buff is what is considered a polish, and they don't care if the case comes out looking like a semi-melted ice cube at the end. That is however a failure of technique, not equipment.

Your assertion that a Dremel offers more control simply is not true - that control is an illusion. In the right hands large buffs are the gold standard - in the wrong hands those same buffs (or a Dremel) are much more likely to end with a poor result.

My advice is to let properly trained professionals refinish the watch, because in my experience fixing the "DIY refinish" is much more difficult than just fixing the scratched up case or bracelet.

Cheers, Al


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## pithy

Archer said:


> . . . . Your assertion that a Dremel offers more control simply is not true - that control is an illusion. . . . .


The Dremel could rightly be called a toy and its use would be humorous if it weren't so destructive.


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## JPCass

Archer said:


> Refinishing is a skill like any other, which takes time and practice to become proficient at. You are quite right that for many it seems a good lean on the buff is what is considered a polish, and they don't care if the case comes out looking like a semi-melted ice cube at the end. That is however a failure of technique, not equipment.
> 
> Your assertion that a Dremel offers more control simply is not true - that control is an illusion. In the right hands large buffs are the gold standard - in the wrong hands those same buffs (or a Dremel) are much more likely to end with a poor result.
> 
> My advice is to let properly trained professionals refinish the watch, because in my experience fixing the "DIY refinish" is much more difficult than just fixing the scratched up case or bracelet.
> 
> Cheers, Al


Thanks for the advice - I feel like I've really learned something here, which is that I didn't know about what I don't know about how a large buffing wheel can be used pretty precisely.

I do know that when I go to jewelry supply shops, they have large selections of various types of small buffs for use in hand-held tools. Are jewelers doing so many things that are not applicable at all to work on watch cases?

Is I've said, I only learned to do my own case work, because I had trouble finding professionals to do good enough work. I grew up around fine mechanical work that used a lot of jewelers' equipment, so I have a background for taking that sort of thing on.

I wouldn't suggest that anyone just pick up a Dremel and go at it - though I still think for the hobbyist, a tool like a Dremel may help them to work carefully and slowly. And I suggested early on in this thread, to get steel washers and bolts to practice on for brush finishes. For polishing something like gold, I'd suggest learning on brass, first.

I often end up trying to fix the refinishing work of so-called professionals who have big buffers and not a lot of skill - including at least two jewelers who my family and I used to use. Also, I collect antique silver, and some high-end silver plate, and among other things polishing inside spoon bowls and the bases of forks properly requires a fairly small diameter buff that can be used in two or more directions (one of the details that the guys with the big buffs miss, resulting in patterns that start to "run" in the single direction the bore down in with the buff); the dealers who have work done with big buffs, including one national firm with full-time polishing staff, often ruin fine pattern details, and accelerate the edge wear on plate.


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## JPCass

pithy said:


> The Dremel could rightly be called a toy and its use would be humorous if it weren't so destructive.


It's a tool like any other. Particularly using a flex-shaft, they are hardly different from professional handheld equipment, other than maybe not offering as much torque for grinding (not the issue, here) and not being built to stand up to constant use in a shop. Unlike with other tools, I don't think there's any issue of comparative accuracy and precision - and when it comes to areas where that does matter, like good screwdrivers that won't end up mangling screws (especially visible ones), I use professional equipment like Borgeon.

I'd agree that Dremels' mis-use by inexperienced hobbyists can go wrong. But as I've noted, I've seen professional-grade buffing equipment, used by supposed professionals, be just as destructive.

I can get professional-grade results with the equipment I have - including Dremels. Supposed professionals who rely too much on their equipment rather than their technique, worry me as much as amateurs.


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## utzelu

While the technique described here can be used for removing small scratches, I am not sure it can be applied for dings or bigger scratches. That is because using sandpaper the material from the case is removed. For bigger scratches it would remove too much material from the entire surrounding area, thinning the case too much. As I understand, there are different techniques for this purpose, where no material is removed but only moved from one place to another.


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## Archer

JPCass said:


> Thanks for the advice - I feel like I've really learned something here, which is that I didn't know about what I don't know about how a large buffing wheel can be used pretty precisely.
> 
> I do know that when I go to jewelry supply shops, they have large selections of various types of small buffs for use in hand-held tools. Are jewelers doing so many things that are not applicable at all to work on watch cases?
> 
> Is I've said, I only learned to do my own case work, because I had trouble finding professionals to do good enough work. I grew up around fine mechanical work that used a lot of jewelers' equipment, so I have a background for taking that sort of thing on.
> 
> I wouldn't suggest that anyone just pick up a Dremel and go at it - though I still think for the hobbyist, a tool like a Dremel may help them to work carefully and slowly. And I suggested early on in this thread, to get steel washers and bolts to practice on for brush finishes. For polishing something like gold, I'd suggest learning on brass, first.
> 
> I often end up trying to fix the refinishing work of so-called professionals who have big buffers and not a lot of skill - including at least two jewelers who my family and I used to use. Also, I collect antique silver, and some high-end silver plate, and among other things polishing inside spoon bowls and the bases of forks properly requires a fairly small diameter buff that can be used in two or more directions (one of the details that the guys with the big buffs miss, resulting in patterns that start to "run" in the single direction the bore down in with the buff); the dealers who have work done with big buffs, including one national firm with full-time polishing staff, often ruin fine pattern details, and accelerate the edge wear on plate.


I'm glad you are getting something from this thread. I see you refer a lot to jewelers...just to state the obvious these are not watchmakers, and the skill set is very different even when it comes to refinishing. I have a good friend who is a goldsmith, and although I would not hesitate to recommend him for making custom jewellery, engagement rings, etc., I would not want him refinishing my stainless steel watch case for example. It's a material he does not deal with, and the kind of polishing work he does on a hand made piece in gold is very different than the shape and form of a watch case. Where he has the same 2 buffs on his polishing machine every time I go to his shop, when refinishing a watch case and bracelet I may change buffs/wheels many times.

From Artifex wheels, hard felt buffs, stitched cotton buffs, unstitched cotton buffs, flap wheels, Bufflex wheels...plus a variety of compounds for heavier stock removal, and final colouring across a range of materials, from stainless steel, gold, titanium, etc. Of course refinishing is not just polishing, so on a watch case you may have to apply a variety of finishes, with specific directions to things like the grain - this can involve a lot of masking techniques that I never see him use, as pretty much everything has one finish - shiny. So refinishing a watch case/bracelet is very different from him using essentially one rouge and a couple of buffs for almost all his work.

In addition the pieces he works on rarely have sharp, crisp edges that he has to maintain, so the methods he uses would not suit a watch case very well.

As was mentioned, the key thing on watch cases is making sure large flat surfaces stay flat, and a Dremel or any other small buff is not really the right tool for that purpose. The larger wheel will give you a more even surface, where a smaller wheel is more likely to create an uneven surface. I don't recommend anyone learn refinishing on an actual watch case, at least one that they care about. But I would recommend that if you really want to learn to do this correctly, you get a bench lathe, some proper wheels, buffs, and compounds, and do it right.

Cheers, Al


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## pithy

JPCass said:


> . . . I can get professional-grade results with the equipment I have - including Dremels. . . . .


Sure.


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## 789

Are there any tricks for re-brushing the starburst affect on many cases. Can it be done by hand with practice?

Rodney


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## Stuey63

It can be done, but the biggest issue is taking the sharp edges off the case. For that sort of job I'd use a board not unlike a woman's nail board with a square end and carefully stroke the surface in single strokes away from inside to outside, commencing right on the inner edge and coming off the surface just on the outer edge so as not to round it. Something like a pop stick (popsicle stick) with abrasive paper glued to it - or even actually a fine nail board cut square! It would be best with the bezel removed of course.

Keep in mind an imaginary line from the centre of the dial outward and that's the line you brush the case along.

Alternatively, if the surface is convex and the bezel flange doesn't get in the way you could very carefully do long strokes as if you're filing it, but make sure you keep the 'file' always at the right angle so as not to round the edge. This is where a hard stick is useful because it doesn't bow around the edge and cause rounding.

Patience and many light, straight strokes are important.

The grit chosen depends on the original finish. A Vostok tonneau case has deep grooves for example.

Finally, in my opinion dry abrasive paper is best (rather than wet).


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## Archer

789 said:


> Are there any tricks for re-brushing the starburst affect on many cases. Can it be done by hand with practice?
> 
> Rodney


To do this properly the case should be done on a lapping machine. Anything else is going to look suboptimal.

Cheers, Al


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## 789

Stuey63 said:


> It can be done, but the biggest issue is taking the sharp edges off the case. For that sort of job I'd use a board not unlike a woman's nail board with a square end and carefully stroke the surface in single strokes away from inside to outside, commencing right on the inner edge and coming off the surface just on the outer edge so as not to round it. Something like a pop stick (popsicle stick) with abrasive paper glued to it - or even actually a fine nail board cut square! It would be best with the bezel removed of course.
> 
> Keep in mind an imaginary line from the centre of the dial outward and that's the line you brush the case along.
> 
> Alternatively, if the surface is convex and the bezel flange doesn't get in the way you could very carefully do long strokes as if you're filing it, but make sure you keep the 'file' always at the right angle so as not to round the edge. This is where a hard stick is useful because it doesn't bow around the edge and cause rounding.
> 
> Patience and many light, straight strokes are important.
> 
> The grit chosen depends on the original finish. A Vostok tonneau case has deep grooves for example.
> 
> Finally, in my opinion dry abrasive paper is best (rather than wet).


I'll probably get up the nerve and give this a go. I think patience is the key word here.


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## 789

Archer said:


> To do this properly the case should be done on a lapping machine. Anything else is going to look suboptimal.
> 
> Cheers, Al


I did some web searches on lapping machines. It always helps to know what you're serching for. With the micro welding to fill in the gouges and lapping the surfaces the results are amazing. The machines look spendy.

Rodney


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## JPCass

789 said:


> I'll probably get up the nerve and give this a go. I think patience is the key word here.


That reminds me of something that occurred to me, that I should have suggested quite a while back in the thread - besides hardware store washers and bolts to practice on, a cheap watch picked up at a thrift store or yard sale can make a good practice piece.


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## Stuey63

My view is almost anything can be achieved with thought about the process, and due care.

Another thing I recommend is a glass scratch brush to give the final softness to the finish, carefully flicked back and forth, masking any surrounding polished surfaces. It is critical to note these brushes leave tiny glass bristles on the item so take appropriate precautions


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## pithy

789 said:


> Are there any tricks for re-brushing the starburst affect on many cases. . . . . .


Sure.

For starters, center the case in the lathe and mount a flexible abrasive disk, brush, wheel, buff or other torture device of the desired grit and or fineness in the milling attachment.

You can experiment but I'd start with a very slow spindle speed.


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## mattlockofthewatchworld

thanks! that was really helpful always good to hear others' experiences


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## monax

Stuey63 said:


> Finally, in my opinion dry abrasive paper is best (rather than wet).


This is what I have found as well.


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## Sepcivil1

Great tips on brushed finishes. Thanks for sharing the suggestions.


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## watchabit

For the starburst effect on bezels, although I haven't done it ...if doing it by hand the bezel would need to be mounted on a stationary rotating device (lapping machine, lathe/mill) and a fence place at a right angle to keep the sanding board exact, no? Even then the width of the sanding board is going to affect the radial lines at the edges of the board (they won't be at the correct angle) unless it's very narrow. Then, if the bezel is going to spin (at a constant rate), the angle of the abrasive and the speed of the bezel would have to be calculated to achieve straight lines (unless curved lines are desirable). Correct? 
I have quite a few cases and bezels with this pattern and have been thinking of ways to set this up. I'd love to see how it was done at the factory.


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## Thirdgenbird

Here is an example of professionals at work. They show quite a bit of detail.

https://static.breitling.com/videos/maintenance/breitling_polissage_2009_en.mp4


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## watchabit

Thirdgenbird said:


> Here is an example of professionals at work. They show quite a bit of detail.
> 
> https://static.breitling.com/videos/maintenance/breitling_polissage_2009_en.mp4


Very cool! Thanks much. The skill in this video is amazing.


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## Archer

watchabit said:


> For the starburst effect on bezels, although I haven't done it ...if doing it by hand the bezel would need to be mounted on a stationary rotating device (lapping machine, lathe/mill) and a fence place at a right angle to keep the sanding board exact, no? Even then the width of the sanding board is going to affect the radial lines at the edges of the board (they won't be at the correct angle) unless it's very narrow. Then, if the bezel is going to spin (at a constant rate), the angle of the abrasive and the speed of the bezel would have to be calculated to achieve straight lines (unless curved lines are desirable). Correct?
> I have quite a few cases and bezels with this pattern and have been thinking of ways to set this up. I'd love to see how it was done at the factory.


Here is the process being done at the Omega service center in NJ a few years ago - I spent a bit of time in the refinishing department looking at how they did things when there for training.








Cheers, Al


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## watchabit

Hey thanks Al! I'll have to watch it tomorrow but I really wish I could watch it now.

Ok I watched it. He's using the corner of the wheel which makes sense, and he has a jig which maintains one angle, but he's spinning the case by hand. Which means it's not located in place on the jig and can move about on the buff. So I'm amazed by his technique, but I'm confused as to how the pattern comes out even and on tangent. ...unless there is a locating pin that he spins the case on that I can't see.
I really love videos like this, always great to learn something new.
Thats a gorgeous case too!


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## Archer

watchabit said:


> Hey thanks Al! I'll have to watch it tomorrow but I really wish I could watch it now.
> 
> Ok I watched it. He's using the corner of the wheel which makes sense, and he has a jig which maintains one angle, but he's spinning the case by hand. Which means it's not located in place on the jig and can move about on the buff. So I'm amazed by his technique, but I'm confused as to how the pattern comes out even and on tangent. ...unless there is a locating pin that he spins the case on that I can't see.
> I really love videos like this, always great to learn something new.
> Thats a gorgeous case too!


Skill and practice...it takes both. There's no locating pin.

Cheers, Al


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## fskywalker

Great thread!


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## wsfarrell

pithy said:


> Stop.
> 
> If you want to apply a waveform pattern of crests and troughs you have recommended the optimal tool.
> 
> The minimum acceptable buff diameter for polishing is five (5) inches.
> 
> Seven (7) inches is better for many applications.


Incorrect. Bergeon makes several grades of 4" (100mm) wheels that produce outstanding results. Here's an example of the ultra-fine wheel:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bergeon-60...=item3d582c09bf:g:4f4AAOSwNRdX9Njh:rk:26:pf:0

There's a technique I learned years ago for using these wheels to get a perfectly straight finish (as opposed to wavy or swirly): move the bracelet to the left and right while applying it to the wheel, rather than up and down. Seems counter-intuitive, but it works.


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## pithy

wsfarrell said:


> Incorrect. Bergeon makes several grades of 4" (100mm) wheels that produce outstanding results. Here's an example of the ultra-fine wheel:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bergeon-60...=item3d582c09bf:g:4f4AAOSwNRdX9Njh:rk:26:pf:0
> 
> There's a technique I learned years ago for using these wheels to get a perfectly straight finish (as opposed to wavy or swirly): move the bracelet to the left and right while applying it to the wheel, rather than up and down. Seems counter-intuitive, but it works.


Ha.


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## Dan3241

tayyabpirzada said:


> So my Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra developed a few scratches on the bracelet and I thought I would try out a refinishing method which is wildly popular online (especially on Watchuseek) and among the WIS community, which is to use Scotchbrite pads and refinishing blocks to remove scratches and restore the brushed finishing on the bracelet.
> 
> So what I did is use the green scouring Scotchbrite pad first (very abrasive) and tried to make uniform lines. However the lines really stood out and it looked frankly really ugly to my eyes. After that I used a Sandflex Fine refinishing block, which I had used earlier on the clasp of my Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 and had done an amazing job for. However, even with the Sandflex fine brushing, it still produced those lines which I found looked mediocre and cheapened the watch. So I used Cape Cod polishing cloth on the bracelet afterwards (and a lot of it) to maybe remove the lines a bit. Unfortunately it just made it really shiny but the lines were still very visible.
> 
> You can see in the below pictures the result of that.
> 
> View attachment 12203890
> 
> View attachment 12203898
> 
> 
> So instead what I did is I used sandpaper (by 3M) in the following order, trying to brush evenly each times in single-stroke movements (not going back and forth but in a long single stroke; this is the same method of finishing I did with the Scotchbrite and Sandflex too): 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit, and 2500 grit (in that order).
> 
> And then I used a very mild application of Cape Cod to finish it off, and then put some water on it and wiped it all off.
> 
> The result (as seen in the pictures below) were absolutely phenomenal and looks like factory finishing. No brush lines or grains are visible due to the fine finishing of the 2500 grit sandpaper, and it's not too shiny but not too dull either.
> 
> View attachment 12203914
> 
> View attachment 12203930
> 
> 
> I don't know if the other grits of sandpaper were necessary, but I will be stocking up on 2500 grit sandpaper and Cape Cod polishing cloth for sure.
> 
> P.S. I should also note that I used all methods (finishing block, scotchbrite, and sandpaper) while wet as this helped increase the efficiency of brushing.


I just want to thank you for the tip , ny seamaster clasp came out like factory , I might add , if you go one step further, use 3M 3000 grit , the results would be even better .


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