# My personal diver DIY project



## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Hi everybody,

I've been lurking in this great forum for almost a year, since I got bitten by the watch bug. My personal collection is very modest, with just a 13 years old Tissot T-Race Moto GP 2004, an Orient dressy automatic and a Steinhart Ocean One Black on its way. Love the watches for their design and mechanics. I work as a software engineer but I consider myself a DIY person, having collected and built scale models for the past 15 years.

I've been toying for some time with the idea of designing and making myself a diver watch and decided to put it up here on the forum to get some technical advises and document the progress. Currently I am still in the CAD design stage - I think I am pretty good with 3D modelling for an amateur/hobbyist. As this is the first build for me, I am planning just to machine the case myself. All other parts will be bought. The watch is designed to suit my machining skills and tools - I have a Sherline manual lathe and mill and access to bigger machines if needed.

Here are the specifications:
1. Movement: ETA 955.112 quartz. I chose it because it is cheap
2. Dial: I already bought a brand less dial from eBay which I think looks pretty good and fits the movement
3. Hands: Will buy those as well. I already found some that look good on the watch and I modeled them in CAD
4. Case: 316L stainless, 42 mm diameter, 10 mm thickness. I will try to design the case for waterproofing and here I would need your help.
5. Case back: probably screw down and hopefully I can reuse a case back from the market. I am flexible in the design and should be able to fit just about anything.
5. Crystal: Not decided yet - I would prefer sapphire but it depends on availability. The glass has around 31 mm in diameter with around 1.5 mm thickness. These dimensions are not yet finalized
6. Strap: For now it will be 22 mm in width, probably nato. Later will see what other style fits and what is available on the market

So, I am posting some photos of the watch design I have done so far. Comments and suggestions are welcomed.








































Regards,
DanP


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## MechaMind (Mar 23, 2014)

Nice idea - nice case! 

Related to the 31mm crystal you will be in the close to 50mm diameter range with the watch diameter! Which would be rather big for a all day watch ( if you would like to wear it over a scuba suite as a working diver - then I'd agree but for my wrist it would be far too heavy). The rather plain surfaces come up with a kind of very clean look which meets the reduced dial information, but also visually sizes up the the watch.

I like the lugs as it looks like you already made your strategy for manufacturing!

Are you aware that you are putting that much effort into a watch case and afterwards put in a rather cheap movement - ( not sure if it would be more satisfying to "crown" this sort of work with an equal gem inside) but that is your decision!

However - nice work - I will surely follow this one !


Hansjoerg


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Thanks Hansjoerg for your comments. I appreciate your input.



MechaMind said:


> Related to the 31mm crystal you will be in the close to 50mm diameter range with the watch diameter! Which would be rather big for a all day watch ( if you would like to wear it over a scuba suite as a working diver - then I'd agree but for my wrist it would be far too heavy).


TBH I didn't understand your concern. The design you see already accommodates a 31 mm crystal. And the case diameter is already set to 42 mm. So I don't understand why the case will get close to 50 mm.



MechaMind said:


> Are you aware that you are putting that much effort into a watch case and afterwards put in a rather cheap movement - ( not sure if it would be more satisfying to "crown" this sort of work with an equal gem inside) but that is your decision!


You are perfectly right. I thought about it, but since this is my first attempt to build a watch, I did't want to invest a lot into the movement. And I kind of like the convenience of the quartz for daily use. 
This design is a simplification of another watch I did, with bespoke dial and hands. That one requires more effort and different skills, so I put it aside for the moment. With the second watch I will probably go for an automatic movement, but that is a different story. Below a photo of the other watch design.









Regards,
DanP


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## Dhillon (Mar 29, 2014)

DanP,
A very interesting post, liking both designs, I'd side with Hansjoerg, going to all this effort,then having a 'cheapish' movement wouldn't do the design justice. 

I'm going to follow your progress with interest,

Dhillon


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## stonehead887 (Feb 5, 2014)

It's a very good looking design. And if you have the skills to make it yourself then even better. Are the lugs of the case hinged or movable? If so, I think that is an excellent design feature and more watches should have that. I have an Oris Williams F1 with hinged lugs and it is incredibly comfortable rooms wear. I look forward to seeing more of this. Good work 

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


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## MechaMind (Mar 23, 2014)

Beg your pardon ... I missed the 42mm but visually ( as I mentioned) estimated the glass frame to be in between 7 and 8 mm -> what I mentioned with plain surface visually raises the size! 


Regarding the lugs you probably will have to take a movement which leaves enough material to use solid screws in the case but this should not be a too big thing!
( perhaps you could place the lugs some 0.x mm lower so when moving (if they would not be fix ) they would not lever the lunette off the case


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## Dhillon (Mar 29, 2014)

DanP,
A very interesting post, liking both designs, I'd side with Hansjoerg, going to all this effort,then having a 'cheapish' movement wouldn't do the design justice. 

I'm going to follow your progress with interest,

Dhillon


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## MechaMind (Mar 23, 2014)

About the movement - If this first watch is not resulting in what you are aiming for you could transfer the movement in a second or a third watch attempt - just be sure to be able to get spare stems and hands .....  and it hast to fit to the dials feet of the exisitng Dial


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

stonehead887 said:


> It's a very good looking design. And if you have the skills to make it yourself then even better. Are the lugs of the case hinged or movable? If so, I think that is an excellent design feature and more watches should have that. I have an Oris Williams F1 with hinged lugs and it is incredibly comfortable rooms wear. I look forward to seeing more of this. Good work


Thank you for your appreciation! The lugs are attached with custom bolts (planning to machine those too) and the current design will allow some degrees of movement but only by loosening the bolts and readjusting. I was planning to make them movable, but need to think how to engineer them.


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## stonehead887 (Feb 5, 2014)

If you check out the Oris it may give you an idea. The lugs on my watch look like they are held in place with pin straight through the case. 

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

MechaMind said:


> Regarding the lugs you probably will have to take a movement which leaves enough material to use solid screws in the case but this should not be a too big thing!
> ( perhaps you could place the lugs some 0.x mm lower so when moving (if they would not be fix ) they would not lever the lunette off the case


Already took that into account and there is enough space to push a solid screw from one side to another. In fact, unless I will find suitable screws, I am planning to machine those too, as they are quite beefy (around 2 mm through the case). This should make it easier to drill holes in the case without breaking the drill bits.
Will post later more detailed pics of the case engineering.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Dhillon said:


> DanP,
> A very interesting post, liking both designs, I'd side with Hansjoerg, going to all this effort,then having a 'cheapish' movement wouldn't do the design justice.
> 
> I'm going to follow your progress with interest,
> ...


You are right Dhillon. It's just that I already bought the quartz movement and dial. Next version (the Moby Dick) will be using a proper movement.

BTW, where can I find the CAD plans for ETA 2824-2? ETA site doesn't have them.


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## MechaMind (Mar 23, 2014)

CHeck out the Sellita site the SW 200 is rather similar As ETA seems to be not willing to share them anymore ...! But if you want to stay with Quarz - there are more valuable Quarz movements out there , too!


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

MechaMind said:


> CHeck out the Sellita site the SW 200 is rather similar As ETA seems to be not willing to share them anymore ...! But if you want to stay with Quarz - there are more valuable Quarz movements out there , too!


Thanks! Will look into Sellita movements. For Octopus, I still want to stick with a quartz movement though as I already have a nice dial and the movement itself. Any other quartz movement worth considering?


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## MechaMind (Mar 23, 2014)

Check out ronda or the more valuable myiota movements


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

stonehead887 said:


> If you check out the Oris it may give you an idea. The lugs on my watch look like they are held in place with pin straight through the case.


I modified a bit the lugs design so there will always be 20 degrees of movement without the need of loosening the screws.





















Regards,
DanP


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

One thing I need assistance with is how to design the case for crystal fitting. I guess I will use L-shaped gaskets with a press fit, unless there are better alternatives that don't impact the manufacturing. What is the dimensional relation between the crystal diameter and gasket?

Thanks,
DanP


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## MechaMind (Mar 23, 2014)

Depends on what kind of crystal you want to use.. Some crystals ( especially Saphire) are glued with special UV activated glue .. for the gasket version and the related diameter I would look in the cathalogs of the manufacturers - e.g. Sternkreuz!

Another solution is a screw down of the crystal which needs some space over the glass but is not that uncommon to be used on true diver watches because it withstands high pressure ....and as you would not have a He ventilation


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

So far I would like to use sapphire crystal and set my mind on Sternkreuz 1.4 mm flat.


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## Chascomm (Feb 13, 2006)

How will you prevent the lugs from moving independently? Perhaps a splined bolt to ensure that the lugs can only move as a pair? Or else you could use a bolt instead of a springbar to secure the strap.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

I was hoping the springbars (1.5 mm) and strap/bracelet will ensure that. I will 3D print the case and lugs and then will see if it is an issue. Thanks for raising it up.



Chascomm said:


> How will you prevent the lugs from moving independently? Perhaps a splined bolt to ensure that the lugs can only move as a pair? Or else you could use a bolt instead of a springbar to secure the strap.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Now, that I decided to use a 1.4 mm thick flat sapphire crystal, how should it fit to the case? Should it be pressed fit and then use the UV glue? Given the 31 mm case opening, what should be the crystal diameter to ensure proper waterproofing?

Thanks,
DanP



MechaMind said:


> Depends on what kind of crystal you want to use.. Some crystals ( especially Saphire) are glued with special UV activated glue .. for the gasket version and the related diameter I would look in the cathalogs of the manufacturers - e.g. Sternkreuz!
> 
> Another solution is a screw down of the crystal which needs some space over the glass but is not that uncommon to be used on true diver watches because it withstands high pressure ....and as you would not have a He ventilation


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## Nalco (Dec 6, 2015)

The L shaped I rings are mostly 0,40 mm thick and you may use 1 or 1,5mm height I ring for 1,5mm thick screen.As far as I know eg: screen diameter 30mm the screen seat will be 30,60 instead 30,80(for press friction and elasticity to hold the screen) you can go back and calculate with this sample above.



utzelu said:


> Now, that I decided to use a 1.4 mm thick flat sapphire crystal, how should it fit to the case? Should it be pressed fit and then use the UV glue? Given the 31 mm case opening, what should be the crystal diameter to ensure proper waterproofing?
> 
> Thanks,
> DanP


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Somehow I don't want to use an L-shaped ring on sapphire but only UV glue. It should look much nicer. I will investigate how much water proofing can I get with it.

Regards,
DanP


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## Nalco (Dec 6, 2015)

Ok then, 0,2mm or 0,3 gap will be enough between screen and the nest.Be careful while using UV glue because if touches any part you have to clean it with alcohol or aceton based sth with a soft fabric.I recommend you to fix first the screen with masking band on case, due to prevent touch and move screen at application.For UV glue you can obtain from esslinger or ofrei for couple of dollars I assume.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

As I understand, UV glue finds its way between the crystal and case through capillary action. I will try first with a 0.2 mm gap.

Thanks,
DanP


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## Nalco (Dec 6, 2015)

yes, try to apply with injector BTW. Just fill the gap, not too much,not too less, enough to make bond between metal and screen.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Today I got from a friend of mine a 3D print of the Moby Dick case. The Octopus case has the same size and general design, only the bezel is different.

The print is quite low res and low quality but it is enough to do the first assessment of the design and general dimensions. Later, I will machine the case in Nylon plastic to check the details, fitting and decide on the machining steps. My focus currently is on the Octopus however.


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The size seems to be perfect for my wrist, which is around 170 mm in circumference. But I could find out that the lugs need more degree of movement - currently it is 20 degrees from horizontal. They have to be angled more so I need to update the design in order to allow that.









Other than that I can say that I like the design so far.

Thanks for watching,
DanP


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## Nalco (Dec 6, 2015)

you are on the right way, I feel it. For moving lugs pls check the bethune link, it may give an idea of ergonomy.


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## Medusa (Feb 6, 2010)

I like your designs and I like the quartz movement. A high performance watch deserves a high performance, accurate movement. To me, an automatic or manual wind movement would wreck the watch. Unless your Swiss, there is no reason to put an old fashioned inferior movement in a newly designed timepiece. A Seiko Kinetic movement would be really cool.


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## Cobia (Nov 24, 2013)

utzelu said:


> Thanks Hansjoerg for your comments. I appreciate your input.
> 
> TBH I didn't understand your concern. The design you see already accommodates a 31 mm crystal. And the case diameter is already set to 42 mm. So I don't understand why the case will get close to 50 mm.
> 
> ...


Dan im very impressed with your eye for design, especially on your first go, i really like the hands chosen for both, they are bold and suit the case well, i LOVE this seconds hand here and the green on the hands and dial, nice work mate.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Thank you Medusa! BTW, your avatar name could be a good name for a diver watch 

I also appreciate good quartz movements, especially their accuracy and convenience in daily use. My daily beater is a Tissot with a G10.211 movement. For the last 13 years it never missed a bit with no service other than changing the battery.

As for this project, a movement is not enough, I need CAD plans for it to design the case around it. I don't understand why others don't consider the ETA 955.112 as a good movement. To my uninitiated eyes it looks like a very well made movement, it is serviceable, has brass main plate and no plastic. It looks like a very robust piece and it is very cheap.

Regards,
DanP



Medusa said:


> I like your designs and I like the quartz movement. A high performance watch deserves a high performance, accurate movement. To me, an automatic or manual wind movement would wreck the watch. Unless your Swiss, there is no reason to put an old fashioned inferior movement in a newly designed timepiece. A Seiko Kinetic movement would be really cool.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Thank you Cobia. Really appreciate your feedback.

I was always attracted by design even though I haven't made a carrier out of it.

The hands on the Octopus are catalog parts but I think they suit very well the general design of the watch. The hands on the Moby Dick are bespoke (I think, as I haven't seen them on other watches) and they are inspired from hunting harpoons.

Regards,
DanP



Cobia said:


> Dan im very impressed with your eye for design, especially on your first go, i really like the hands chosen for both, they are bold and suit the case well, i LOVE this seconds hand here and the green on the hands and dial, nice work mate.


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## Cobia (Nov 24, 2013)

utzelu said:


> Thank you Cobia. Really appreciate your feedback.
> 
> I was always attracted by design even though I haven't made a carrier out of it.
> 
> ...


Cheers dan, the seconds hand in the moby dick reminded me of some of my pelagic spear shafts, i drill in a single small butterfly wing on, the first thing it reminded me of was a spear shaft.

I like youre case design too, im a bit of a traditionalist with bezels, i like em numbered and functioning, so i cant say it grabs me in the bezel dept, but i like the design, everything looks in proportion to each other, it looks a perfect size for you in the printed black one you have there looks good.

Id like to see it with a functioning bezel, maybe something bold that suits the design, maybe even a saw tooth bezel with fairly good size teeth would look sweet, or maybe not, im not sure.

Anyway im liking your stuff, cheers


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

For this version the bezel will be fixed. In fact it is not separate from the case, but one piece with it. It's a faux bezel sort of. Once I learn and perfect new skills, then will venture into rotating bezel. 

In a way, this is the beauty of doing something for yourself rather than for commercial purpose. You can learn at your own pace and do it in small steps without worrying about competition.

Regards,
DanP


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

I would like to ask here what would be a good thickness for the sapphire crystal? Would 1.4 - 1.5 mm flat be enough?

Thanks,
DanP


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## Nalco (Dec 6, 2015)

1.4 is not common, prefer 1.5mm flat or domed will be enough for a 200 to 500 m diver.
PS: try to select vitron gasket for backlid ,if the crown will be custom, vitron or nitril o ring also.



utzelu said:


> I would like to ask here what would be a good thickness for the sapphire crystal? Would 1.4 - 1.5 mm flat be enough?
> 
> Thanks,
> DanP


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

I was checking Sternkreuz catalog and they don't make 1.5 mm, only 1.4 or thinner. What about the quality of chinese sapphire crystals on ebay?

Thanks,
DanP


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## Nalco (Dec 6, 2015)

rather than ebay, I recommend you to buy from esslinger,ofrei,cousinsuk.... at least you will be sure for quality.Prices are plausible for retail, but your project, your decision.I can't say more.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

I understand. Being located in Europe, the only alternative I found so far is cousinsuk. So 1.4 mm thick flat sapphire from Sternkreuz will be, glued with UV adhesive. Hopefully it will be water proof enough.



Nalco said:


> rather than ebay, I recommend you to buy from esslinger,ofrei,cousinsuk.... at least you will be sure for quality.Prices are plausible for retail, but your project, your decision.I can't say more.


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## Nalco (Dec 6, 2015)

Dan, I am curious to see the shot of assembled watch on wrist as a watchmaker.Please check stem height, movement nest and cannon pin wheel height below screen once more before starting to manufacture the watch.


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## 08ryana (Nov 25, 2015)

Very interesting project! As the hands are bespoke how do you plan on making them? 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

For now I can only think of photoetching in 0.2 - 0.3 mm nickel. There is a company in Czech Republic that can take photoetching jobs from hobbyists and the prices seem to be very reasonable. I will contact them later. In any case, the Moby Dick is my 2nd priority currently. I want to make the Octopus first, as a testing prototype.



08ryana said:


> Very interesting project! As the hands are bespoke how do you plan on making them?
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## 08ryana (Nov 25, 2015)

utzelu said:


> For now I can only think of photoetching in 0.2 - 0.3 mm nickel. There is a company in Czech Republic that can take photoetching jobs from hobbyists and the prices seem to be very reasonable. I will contact them later. In any case, the Moby Dick is my 2nd priority currently. I want to make the Octopus first, as a testing prototype.


I'm currently in a similar situation to you for the manufacture of a watch design. I'm also using a quartz movement (Miyota 2025). I've made the dial and the case shouldn't be a problem. However the watch hands will be the biggest difficulty. I'll probably get them photo etched out of 0.25mm stainless steel but the difficulty will be getting the hands to grip the spindle. Drawing out the hole with some sort of die is the only thing I can think of for now.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

This issue is new to me, so thanks for bringing it up. What is the difference between of-the-shelf hands (which are stamped I think) and the custom ones made with photoetching? As long as the hole is the right diameter and round, shouldn't it grip to the movement spindle? Am I missing something?



08ryana said:


> I'm currently in a similar situation to you for the manufacture of a watch design. I'm also using a quartz movement (Miyota 2025). I've made the dial and the case shouldn't be a problem. However the watch hands will be the biggest difficulty. I'll probably get them photo etched out of 0.25mm stainless steel but the difficulty will be getting the hands to grip the spindle. Drawing out the hole with some sort of die is the only thing I can think of for now.
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## 08ryana (Nov 25, 2015)

utzelu said:


> This issue is new to me, so thanks for bringing it up. What is the difference between of-the-shelf hands (which are stamped I think) and the custom ones made with photoetching? As long as the hole is the right diameter and round, shouldn't it grip to the movement spindle? Am I missing something?


The hands are only held with friction. Photo etched hands would probably not have enough surface area on the spindle to hold the hands.
Stamped hands have a "deeper" hole and so more surface area to grip the spindle with.








I'm no expert so take this with a grain of salt but I've been lurking and researching for a few months on this very question as my whole design depends on the hands.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

According to the design there is a distance of 2.5 mm between the top surface of the dial to the bottom surface of the crystal. That should be plenty to have the required clearance.

In any case, I will 3D print all the parts in high resolution so I can do a full assembly with the movement, hands, crystal, screws etc. Then I will machine the parts in plastic to design the machining steps and necessary fixtures. And do another full test fit. So I still have a long way until I get to metal work.

Regards,
Dan



Nalco said:


> Dan, I am curious to see the shot of assembled watch on wrist as a watchmaker.Please check stem height, movement nest and cannon pin wheel height below screen once more before starting to manufacture the watch.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

I understand. Did you test this already? I guess you can file flat some spare hands and see if there is enough friction.



08ryana said:


> The hands are only held with friction. Photo etched hands would probably not have enough surface area on the spindle to hold the hands.
> Stamped hands have a "deeper" hole and so more surface area to grip the spindle with.
> 
> I'm no expert so take this with a grain of salt but I've been lurking and researching for a few months on this very question as my whole design depends on the hands.
> ...


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## 08ryana (Nov 25, 2015)

No I haven't tried it yet. Filing down some cheap hands could be a way of testing it. 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

I was checking the CAD plans for ETA 955.112, which is the movement I am using in Octopus and I can see that the maximum thickness for the minutes hand can be 0.25 mm. So it shouldn't matter if the hands are stamped with a deeper hole or photoetched; it cannot be thicker than 0.25 mm. So there should be the same surface to grip the spindle with both technologies.



08ryana said:


> No I haven't tried it yet. Filing down some cheap hands could be a way of testing it.
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## 08ryana (Nov 25, 2015)

utzelu said:


> I was checking the CAD plans for ETA 955.112, which is the movement I am using in Octopus and I can see that the maximum thickness for the minutes hand can be 0.25 mm. So it shouldn't matter if the hands are stamped with a deeper hole or photoetched; it cannot be thicker than 0.25 mm. So there should be the same surface to grip the spindle with both technologies.


Oh. In that case you should be fine hopefully. Though the tolerances of the hole can be hard to get right when photo etching I suspect. I'd get multiple hands with slight hole diameter tolerance differences made to get the best fit.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## hydrobloke (Feb 9, 2016)

Following this and would love to see the metal version, more updates please


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

I would love to see the metal version either but still a long way to get there. Yesterday I sent the parts to a 3D priting service in order to print them in high resolution plastic. I intend to do a full test assembly (movement, dial, hands, crystal etc).

Currently I am refining the details to ensure some sort of water resistance. Will post here more questions for that.

Thanks for watching,
DanP



hydrobloke said:


> Following this and would love to see the metal version, more updates please


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Today I would like to submit for review the crown. I beefed up the original design to help with machining and here are the specs:

Overall diameter of crown: 8.4 mm
Diameter of the interior hole in crown: 4.5 mm
Crown post diameter: 1.8 mm


The stem tube that goes in the case is beefed up as following:
Diameter of hole in case: 3 mm
OD diameter of stem tube (just the part that exists the case and goes into the crown): 4 mm
ID of stem tube: 2 mm (so the crown post has 0.2 mm clearance)

I will use just an o-ring on the crown post with 1.2 mm ID and 2 mm OD. This is where I would need your feedback. Would it be enough for water resistance?
















Stem tube will be a press fit with the case. Hopefully that is enough to keep the water away.










Regards,
DanP


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## hydrobloke (Feb 9, 2016)

How about a screw-down crown? better water resistance


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Indeed, it should be better due to the additional o-ring but I have no idea how to machine the required threads inside the crown. The space is just to tiny. So will leave it for the next watch.

Regards,
DanP


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## dspt (Apr 18, 2014)

would putting the threads on the outside of the crown post and insides of the stem tube be easier to machine?


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Yes, it should be easier to machine, indeed. But I am not sure the stem is suitable for a screw down crown. According to ETA, the stem moves 0.68 mm from position 1 to position 3. I am not sure how to solve this.

Regards,
DanP



dspt said:


> would putting the threads on the outside of the crown post and insides of the stem tube be easier to machine?


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## walltz (Nov 21, 2015)

Nice work, all the best.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Indeed, I also think it would look best in non-polished form. I will have to learn how to apply different finishes once I get to that point 



Clocked said:


> I can see this case in a brushed finish be very appealing.


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## Clocked (Sep 16, 2014)

I love the case and the lugs, not too big on the dial. To each his own, though. Good luck!


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Thanks for your feedback!

I assume you are referring to the Octopus. Indeed, the dial is from some old stock I got from ebay so it is not bespoke nor remarkable. I Just like it because of the orange color and it suits a diver. With Octopus I am focusing on the case and lugs machining, paving the way for the next watch project, which should have a bespoke dial and hands and better movement.

Regards,
DanP



Clocked said:


> I love the case and the lugs, not too big on the dial. To each his own, though. Good luck!


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Today I got the 3D printed parts and I am impressed with their quality. So I was eager to put together the parts and see how it all fits. The crown is not printed but machined from nylon plastic bar. I intended to focus on the machining steps for now. Other machined parts are the chapter ring and movement holder, both in aluminium.

Some photos below:





















The next step is to adjust the CAD design where is needed and start machining the parts in plastic. In parallel I am trying to source some 316L steel, which seems to be a challenge here where I live. I may need find an online source.

Thanks,
DanP


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## nabiul (Nov 15, 2014)

Clearance between the chapter ring and bezel seems to be very small, where will the crystal go?


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

The crystal is already temporary installed in the photos above. It is sapphire 1.5 mm thick.



nabiul said:


> Clearance between the chapter ring and bezel seems to be very small, where will the crystal go?


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## MechaMind (Mar 23, 2014)

Here is about a concept with similar lugs..

Mens Watches - Zinvo Blade Gunmetal - ZINVO Europe


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Indeed, the lugs are similar. I even mentioned in my early posts that the lugs design is not original. The main reason I chose this design is that it makes it easier to machine the case. Not having a CNC mill would make it almost impossible to make the case in one solid piece.

However, the concept fits very nice with the rest of the case and should make it for a comfortable fit.



MechaMind said:


> Here is about a concept with similar lugs..
> 
> Mens Watches - Zinvo Blade Gunmetal - ZINVO Europe


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Just a small update on the project. I am having difficulties in finding 316L stainless steel bars where I live. The only available steel on suppliers is 304 which is not good enough. I am looking for options to buy from internet but most online suppliers do not ship overseas.
Anybody has a 100 mm long, 316L steel bar in 45 mm diameter lying around and can sell it to me?

Thanks,
DanP


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Hi everybody,

An update on the project. Currently I am machining the case in 6061 aluminium, for testing purpose. It is a slow process as my lathe is quite small. 

I have a minor design issue I would like to ask for your opinion. As you can see in the last picture above, the movement is not secured inside the case. It is sandwiched between the chapter ring and the movement holder ring on the back side and there is a sliding fit between the movement holder and case. I will modify the holder ring and machine add two circular slots for screwing the movement to the holder. But I would like to secure the holder to the case as well. I know that I can use some small tabs but that requires machining an inner groove in the case and might be too challenging for me. Any other ideas would be welcomed.

Thanks,
DanP


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## dspt (Apr 18, 2014)

I've seen several times that there's a rubber ring between the case and the holder. through the tension it creates when inserted, it "sort of" secures the holder inside the case and adds shock protection. Do you think this will work for your project?


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Yes, I thought about machining a slot in the case back and movement holder ring, that would ensure that when closed, the movement would be secure. But when the watch back is open, the movement won't be secured anymore and move whenever there is some pressure applied on the crown. However, I guess when the case will have a crown tube and gaskets, the play will be minimal. Your idea would be easier to do either, since there is no machining needed.

Thanks,
DanP


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## Timepieces of Class (Sep 21, 2013)

Very nice. Looking forward to the actual finish products and if you decided to make more than one I would sure be one of the eager ones to bid for them. CHeers!


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## Kai Schraml (Apr 6, 2016)

Like the design quite a bit. Orange is not my color, but the design is wonderful. Perhaps color one of the bezel dents to make it a useful marker?


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Thanks for your feedback. The progress is slow due to work schedule. Plus I need to buy more milling tool bits as they go fast. Still working in aluminum on the prototype.


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## hydrobloke (Feb 9, 2016)

Been following this from the start and looking good, need to see the stainless steel prototype!

Well done so far mate.


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## utzelu (Aug 17, 2015)

Would like that too, but having difficulties in sourcing 316L SS here on the island of Cyprus. Seems no workshop uses more than 304 grade steel. So until then, will work the prototype in 6061 aluminum.



hydrobloke said:


> Been following this from the start and looking good, need to see the stainless steel prototype!
> 
> Well done so far mate.


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## Kai Schraml (Apr 6, 2016)

Love this design. too expensive to finish?


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## watchcrazy007 (Aug 8, 2016)

I really like the direction your heading towards. I would buy them if they were automatic with sapphire.


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## CODAFIL (Aug 16, 2016)

I like the tough look mixed with the colorful finish, nice going !


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