# HOW TO: DIY cheap crystal repair - scratch removal tutorial



## Sparcster

Evening Gents,

Also posted this tread on the seiko forum (because of the watches), but would be equally good here, as this is aimed at Acrylic Crystal, found on plenty of vintage watches.. hopefully this helps someone!

Recently i posted this thread showing my bargain car boot find - King seiko 5246:

https://www.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?t=417320

Awesome watch, which had only one problem... the Acrylic crystal was very scratched. Thanks to the suggestions of stefano34 and Pandamonium i have managed to turn this:










Into this:










Granted, this is not as good as a new crystal... but its very close! Plus i have not had to spend lots of time and money finding the right replacement crystal - if even possible!

This is how i did it:

Firstly, sorry if this is common knowledge and something you guys do all the time. But i did do a thread search and did not find anything.

Also, im sure people have proper equipment and better ways of doing this... but this is my first steps into watch (cosmetic) repair and am amazed how easy and cheap it is to do this.

Firstly, you will need a watch with an Acrylic Crystal which is in need of repair. Luckily, a work colleague has a vintage seiko that had a nasty scratch, plus normal wear an tear. After telling him about my DIY repair to my KS he gave his watch today for the same treatment.

Its a 1975, 7006-5000. Notice the scratch from 7 to 1




























Once you have the watch, you need the tools... I say tools, but infact, its stuff you are likely to have in the house - if you have a female in the house!

The first thing. A nail polishing block - Ask the ladies in the house, or go to your nearest Supermarket? Boots? Superdrug? and it looks like this:










Each side has a different grade of glass paper, from a rough grade to a side that buffs. From what my girlfriend says, this is standard and each side is normally numbered from 1 to 4! In the case of this one, 1 was the rough side, going through to 4 the buff ('Shiner') side. Please note, I have not used side 1 (the roughest) at any point. One of these will cost about £2...

The second thing you will need is.... Toothpaste:










Nothing special.. I assume the cheapeast tube will do the job?

Right, when i did my KS (I have since done 3 other watches this way), i have left the crystal in the case. But, as this watch has a very easy crystal to take out, I did... but you dont have to!

I then started but using side 2 (called ridge remover on this block) in a circular motion to 'sand' the top of the crystal (This is the only time i have needed to use side 2, as the scratch was quite deep). When i first did this, i thought i was killing the crystal... it looks like this:










If you wipe this off with a damp cloth, it does not look as bad, but you will see the crystal has lots of mini scratches... Once i could see the main scratch had been rubbed out, I moved onto side 3 "nail smoother"










I have also found adding a bit of moisture to the surface when doing this helps.... once you have worked out the mini scratches, you are left with a slightly cloudy crystal with minute scratches. Wipe off the crystal powder and get the toothpaste.










Using a cloth ( I used kitch towel/paper) rub the tooth paste around in circular motions once again for a couple of minutes. I had to repeat the sanding with side 3 and toothpaste buffing twice to pick up all scratches.

The end result:




























Like i said earlier... this is not as good as a new crystal... but its very close. And with a watch like this, when a replacement is hard to find, this gives many more years of use to a tired crystal.

The one thing i would say if you plan to do this, is: TRY IT ON A CHEAPY OR CRYSTAL THAT IS ONLY GOOD FOR THE BIN!!!

Thanks again to the guys that suggested this and sorry to those of you that think this was a waste of your time reading (as you already know this)or a bit amateurish.

But to Noob's like me... I hope this helps


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## Niccolo

I heard you could polish acrylic with toothpaste, but this is the first time I see a proper tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to do this!


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## enough

*a voyage of discovery*

Looks great!


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## Sparcster

Niccolo said:


> I heard you could polish acrylic with toothpaste, but this is the first time I see a proper tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to do this!


You are welcome... If it helps one person, it was worth it! Thanks Enough.. I am really happy how it worked out.


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## stefano34

Well done, I use exactly the same principle but use Autosol instead of toothpaste (I save toothpaste for stainlessstraps/bracelets along with a toothbrush)
Definately not a waste of time as you have kept te original crystal and you can now read the watch...I am, pretty sure finding crystals for both of these Seiko's would have not been easy...It really bringsthe face out on your Seiko, I love the snazzy 70's brown..rocking!


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## stefano34

Forgot to add you can use the same priciple and equipment to do stainless cases and even solid gold ones just be careful to keep the original shape of the case, on brushed cases you just leave out the finer grades of polishing and 'brush' one way only in the same direction as the original if that makes sense?


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## Marrick

stefano34 said:


> I save toothpaste for stainlessstraps/bracelets along with a toothbrush


Or put them in the cutlery tray of your dishwasher. ;-)


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## restless

Well done. I really like the dial on the KS, beautiful.

When it comes to method, I use metal polish instead of toothpaste. The two finest blocks, the buffer and the polisher are really great for ss cases that have no real scratches but are hazy or dull. The polisher block really produces a shine.


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## Sparcster

Thanks guys,

If it helps one person, it was worth doing. If you do try this out, let me know how you get on!?

I really would recommend this to anyone... as you can see from the time on the watch, it really does not take that long (time shows 40mins - in reality, that was about 20mins of actual work). Plus a lay person (like me) could do this without worry of doing any real damage! I would like to stress again, I practiced on a crystal that was only good for the bin, but that came up great, so i have re-vamped 3 or 4 watches since!

At the end of the day, i now have an awesome looking KS, which i am wearing with pride today... whereas before, i had an awesome KS which i had to explain to people was awesome, as all they could see was the scratches.... and all this really cost me was 20mins.... well worth it!


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## DragonJade

Nicely done. You didn't say, but did you use side 4 at all, or just the toothpaste?


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## Sparcster

DragonJade said:


> Nicely done. You didn't say, but did you use side 4 at all, or just the toothpaste?


Hi there,

I did use side 4 on a couple of my other watches - after using the toothpaste just to buff/polish the surface... But as you can see from this, the toothpaste alone does a great job...

Gave the watch back to my work colleague today.... he is well chuffed!! :-!


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## hctaw

Great info and pics....your method works great....I have also been using AUTO LENS CLEANER on my crystals.....I have an older vintage car and I bought this product as it was intended to 'take the yellow discoloration out and add back clarity and illumination' by buffing the lens ,I was using it on colored lamps and thought I would try it on a watch crystal....works great as well:thanks


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## Sparcster

Update:

The same technique with the block (the finer sanding side of the bock)and toothpaste works very well on the bracelet/case. 

Also the cost of the blocks on shEbay are cheap - just make sure you get a 4 in 1 block... as some of the blocks are just sand paper on all 4 sides! 

I estimate the cost of doing this to one crystal in about 50p.... :-!


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## mrsnak

Although I do have some Polywatch, I use what most watch repair facilities use to polish crystals: a small buffing wheel. Inexpensive and quick.
Something like this:


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## lowme55

Thanks for the lesson. Well worth the time taken to read and hope to try soon. Now, will I spend 20 minutes....


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## Sparcster

mrsnak said:


> Although I do have some Polywatch, I use what most watch repair facilities use to polish crystals: a small buffing wheel. Inexpensive and quick.
> Something like this:


When you say inexpensive... how much??


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## pepi

My Grandson was so upset today. His CD game for his X-Box would not load. I looked at the CD and o| I took the CD and wet sanded it with 2500 grit sandpaper. Looked pretty bad after doing this but the scratches were gone. Next, I took some 3M buffing compound and buffed the CD to a new mirror finish. Works like a champ again. :-!


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## mrsnak

Sparcster said:


> When you say inexpensive... how much??


I grabbed this off the web. Mine in the garage was $5 at a yard sale. Home Depot has these 6" new for $25. Just put buffing wheels on them.
Cheap and quick- plus you can use them for all kinds of polishing.


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## Sparcster

I really need a work shed... There is only so much that can fit on the dining room table before the mrs gets a bit twitchy! I will have to chech prices in the uk. Does this work on glass crystals? And would it get deep scratches out?


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## mrsnak

Sparcster said:


> I really need a work shed... There is only so much that can fit on the dining room table before the mrs gets a bit twitchy! I will have to chech prices in the uk. Does this work on glass crystals? And would it get deep scratches out?


These grinders do need to be bolted down because they will shimmy around. You also need the leverage.My first thought would be to bolt it to a piece of wood, then use C clamps to hold it to the table.

It gets the deep scratches out provided you are careful about how much pressure you use and how long you hold it in one place. The buffing wheel will heat up the surface (friction) and melt the plastic (Polywatch does the same thing but a much slower pace).
Glass crystals? Yes if you use a polishing compound. I have a bar of plexyglass compound that I use sparingly for my plastic crystals. You'd probably want to use a coarser compound for glass. Be advised that you'd need to mask the surrounding bezel well if you don't remove it!


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## PAUL H.

I has used polywatch and a buffing pad on a dremel (low speed) - works great but be careful can burn 
Cheers Paul / Canada


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## Sparcster

PAUL H. said:


> I has used polywatch and a buffing pad on a dremel (low speed) - works great but be careful can burn
> Cheers Paul / Canada


Sounds good... but, does the watch smell minty fresh after? ;-)


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## DragonJade

Sparcster said:


> Sounds good... but, does the watch smell minty fresh after? ;-)


Mmm. Mint. Right now I'm eating a mint choc chip mini sponge cake. Nice.










Colgate have some crazy/cool flavours in the US. I've bought cinnamon and a herb flavoured one before.


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## Sparcster

DragonJade said:


> Mmm. Mint. Right now I'm eating a mint choc chip mini sponge cake. Nice.
> 
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> 
> Colgate have some crazy/cool flavours in the US. I've bought cinnamon and a herb flavoured one before.


Random... but i like it...... Plus, i want one of those!


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## mrsnak

The problem I've always had with with the Dremels for this (and I have one), is that the buffing wheel is too small & thin. Too easy to gouge or polish unevenly if you aren't really careful and you don't get the larger coverage.

Love those Japanese snacks!


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## DragonJade

Sparcster said:


> Random... but i like it...... Plus, i want one of those!


Random indeed. I was in the supermarket and had to do a double take when I saw them. I love mint. Unfortunately they're not big on mint here. They associate it with toothpaste. I brought back a bag of spearmint chews for the office once after coming back from holiday as I thought it was a really cool thing for them to try - very British. I don't think anyone liked them. How can you not like spearmint chews? o|


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## DragonJade

mrsnak said:


> Love those Japanese snacks!


Like these?










I picked them up for a friend. Honest.

Now we really are getting off topic.


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## bjohnson

DragonJade said:


> Like these?
> 
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> I picked them up for a friend. Honest.
> 
> Now we really are getting off topic.


I would have guessed that to be a B-Cup cookie


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## Sparcster

bjohnson said:


> I would have guessed that to be a B-Cup cookie


Very Funny....

As for being off topic... what was the topic? Hmmm a 'Topic' would be nice!


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## restless

It's possible to polish mineral crystals "on the cheap" as well, I just did two divers today. Basically you need sandpaper of various grades and some patience. I also have some cerium oxide compound that is good for the finish stage. Regarding patience, you absolutely need to get the deepest scratches out when you start, and check at each grade, unless you want to start over again. I guess with some practice you could hand polish a mineral crystal in 1-2 hours.


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## Sparcster

restless said:


> It's possible to polish mineral crystals "on the cheap" as well, I just did two divers today. Basically you need sandpaper of various grades and some patience. I also have some cerium oxide compound that is good for the finish stage. Regarding patience, you absolutely need to get the deepest scratches out when you start, and check at each grade, unless you want to start over again. I guess with some practice you could hand polish a mineral crystal in 1-2 hours.


Thanks for that... there is a lot of talk of Cerium Oxide... What is it? and other than ebay, where do you get it?


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## restless

It's an oxide of the metal cerium..according to Wikipedia. I would be a little careful with it especially in powder form because I've read that it can contain traces of radioactivity and I don't want to inhale that. I got mine from a car glass restorer. They said that the scratch reducer effect as such was low even with the use of machinery. As far as watch crystals go, it makes them more shiny and takes out minor scratches with some effort.


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## Sparcster

restless said:


> I've read that it can contain traces of radioactivity and I don't want to inhale that.


Right... traces of radioactivity.... I think i may stick to toothpaste! It works great, its easy, and I dont fear it!


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## restless

Have a look at data safety sheets for it, they give the best info when it comes to risks and precautions.


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## DragonJade

restless said:


> Have a look at data safety sheets for it, they give the best info when it comes to risks and precautions.


Hazard data sheets courtesy of Sigam-Aldritch:

http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog...7=0&D10=Cerium+Oxide&N1=S_ID&ST=RS&N25=0&F=PR

It's non-radioactive just as it is, although you can get doped versions of it, and it's that safe enough that it may end up as an ingredient in sunblock.


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## marc2131

I just followed the instruction to polish off (what I assume is) the original glass face of my 1956 Mockba Russian watch. It came out beautifully. 55 years of scratches all gone. Thanks for the instructions.


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## Sparcster

marc2131 said:


> I just followed the instruction to polish off (what I assume is) the original glass face of my 1956 Mockba Russian watch. It came out beautifully. 55 years of scratches all gone. Thanks for the instructions.
> 
> View attachment 404713


Result! I'm glad to see this thread is still helping!


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## Outta Time

Ideally, you want a buffer that doesn't spin too fast, or have too much torque, as that will melt the crystal or make it worse. One with a speed control is good. Putting buffer wheels on a high speed grinder will do more harm than good.


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## trim

Outta Time said:


> Ideally, you want a buffer that doesn't spin too fast, or have too much torque, as that will melt the crystal or make it worse. One with a speed control is good. Putting buffer wheels on a high speed grinder will do more harm than good.


Personally graded sandpaper and Brasso works for me, and only takes a few minutes. You'd be surprised at what you can recover. A buffer makes sense for a professional though - I wouldn't want to do it by hand all day :-d


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## eccles

I use one of these Micromesh kits. It comes with various grades of micromesh (up to 6000 grade), a foam block and plastic polish. I've had my kit for years and it's not worn out.
Micro-Mesh Acrylic Restoral Kit - KR70 £24.99

Here's a very battered crystal on an old Garrard watch I picked up...









And here it is after a polish....


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## vosnack

How did you restore the dial on your KS? The watch looks amazing.


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## john*thomas

For those who might want to try something a little less abrasive that works pretty well just get a buffing wheel compound bar like this.










Lop off a small piece and work the crystal with it. It will take out most scratches and you really can't screw anything up. I found this Hamilton at a flea market last weekend.










After a bit of rubbing.


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## jopex

I too have had great results with toothpaste on acrylic crystals. What I want to know if anyone ever managed to get rid of mineral crystal scratches? I'm waiting on a diamond paste to arrive to give it a try.


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## Beena

Thanks for this guide. I had a dirty great big scratch on my Oris wrist alarm that made me sad as I had only replaced the acrylic two weeks prior because of a crack. A bit of work with some Brasso and a cloth had it looking like new in about ten minutes. I wouldn't have had the courage to try it had I not seen your post first. I was about to take it for another crystal replacement.


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## kanzaki_reborn

Not pretty sure of the crystal of my G-shock G-306X if it's mineral or acrylic (do G-shocks mostly have an acrylic crystal?) But it has a nasty scratch on the 1 o' clock position. I really want to restore it because I've been wearing the G since 2008 and it has a somewhat sentimental value to me.


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## cfw

Hi can I use this technique on a Oysterdate with the cyclops aswell?


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## Sparcster

cfw said:


> Hi can I use this technique on a Oysterdate with the cyclops aswell?


Dont think so... I dont think the crystal is acrylic?


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## cfw

Sparcster said:


> Dont think so... I dont think the crystal is acrylic?


It is acrylic, I am just concerned about the cyclops


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## Sparcster

In that case, possibly...

You are right to be concerned though, you would not want to scratch the cyclops.

depending on the depth of scratch, a polish (may take a while) with just toothpaste may improve things... or something a bit more abrasive - I generally leave the toothpaste in the bathroom now and have bought some 'Autosol' which is a metal polish (you can buy something called polywatch, which does the same job but costs more for a smaller tube, or people have suggested brasso). However, as I posted originally, if you have not done this before, you may want to practice on something less precious than a oysterdate!


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## cfw

Sparcster said:


> In that case, possibly...
> 
> You are right to be concerned though, you would not want to scratch the cyclops.
> 
> depending on the depth of scratch, a polish (may take a while) with just toothpaste may improve things... or something a bit more abrasive - I generally leave the toothpaste in the bathroom now and have bought some 'Autosol' which is a metal polish (you can buy something called polywatch, which does the same job but costs more for a smaller tube, or people have suggested brasso). However, as I posted originally, if you have not done this before, you may want to practice on something less precious than a oysterdate!


Thanx for the advice, I have done a few before but never with a cyclops plus I haven't tried brasso yet, so I'll give that a shot first


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## cfw

Done, scratches was a bit deep for Brasso or toothpaste, just worked around the cyclops with water sanding and shined with Brasso, thanx for the advice


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## Sparcster

cfw said:


> Done, scratches was a bit deep for Brasso or toothpaste, just worked around the cyclops with water sanding and shined with Brasso, thanx for the advice


Always nice to see a pic of the outcome.....

Glad this old thread is still helping!


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## bp6270

Big thanks to Sparcster! Decided to test-polish the crystal of a Raketa that I pretty much got for a dollar or two (perfect for practicing polish and movement disassembly). The toothpaste worked well after sanding the crystal down as evenly as possible using the nail buffer (I picked up a 7-way one with that has more granularity between the even-filing segment and the shining-segment).

Definitely takes a good amount of practice, especially when getting the deeper scratches... but works well and saves lots of money.


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## kontai69

FWIW, I once did a side-by-side comparison with toothpaste, Brasso, and Polywatch. Polywatch works the best and leaves almost no residual swirl marks, even under close examination under bright light. Toothpaste left behind _clearly_ visible swirl marks which I saw even under low lighting conditions. Brasso produced somewhat intermediate results: not as good as Polywatch but better than toothpaste. This poster's observation also reflects mine...https://www.watchuseek.com/f20/does-polywatch-work-you-judge-129924-3.html#post844886
Polywatch is not commonly available at B&M stores but you can easily find it on eBay.


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## Sparcster

kontai69 said:


> FWIW, I once did a side-by-side comparison with toothpaste, Brasso, and Polywatch. Polywatch works the best and leaves almost no residual swirl marks, even under close examination under bright light. Toothpaste left behind _clearly_ visible swirl marks which I saw even under low lighting conditions. Brasso produced somewhat intermediate results: not as good as Polywatch but better than toothpaste. This poster's observation also reflects mine...https://www.watchuseek.com/f20/does-polywatch-work-you-judge-129924-3.html#post844886
> Polywatch is not commonly available at B&M stores but you can easily find it on eBay.


Hi there,

This is the thread that just keeps on giving!

Nearly 3 years on from originally posting this thread, I would suggest Autosol instead of Toothpaste (as I have mentioned throughout the thread). However. At the time of posting, I was using bits likely to be found in the house. With many applications, sanding, ect, it works well as a first step. That said, I think this is down to the graded sanding, and not the toothpaste

I have not used polywatch, so cant compare its cleaning ability!

When upgrading from toothpaste, I looked at a few threads comparing Polywatch/Brasso/Autosol/Etc... I cant remember being bowled over by Polywatch and was put off by the price. For less money and many times the amount, Autosol seemed to me to be great value. I Still have the same tube that has lasted 2+ years with over 50% left (and has cleaned countless watches).

If done well (which may mean taking longer than polywatch), I would say its leaves the crystal looking perfect!


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## bp6270

I haven't used Polywatch (definitely have to try it), but if you take your time to sand out all the little scratches and then use toothpaste or Brasso (I just restored another crystal using Brasso this time), you won't really see any swirl marks, even when observed under an LED light. It really depends on the workmanship of the person actually polishing the crystal.

Here's another watch (Dunhaven / AS5203 movement) I worked on... still have to continue working on the case to get it as smooth and shiny as possible, but big difference compared to when I bought it at the flea market (for 5 dollars):


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## Coykoicarp

Pardon me for reviving an old thread. I tried it on my vintage seiko... but I saw wrongly and used side 1 (the roughest) of the manicure thingy instead of side 4. Now, the watch has a large gash across it. What should I do now? It's a domed acrylic, so not gonna be easy/cheap to replace.


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## Marrick

Oh dear.

A round acrylic crystal should be quite cheap and easy to replace - other shapes are more problematic. You could try Polywatch:


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## Mirius

mickxa2 said:


> Pardon me for reviving an old thread. I tried it on my vintage seiko... but I saw wrongly and used side 1 (the roughest) of the manicure thingy instead of side 4. Now, the watch has a large gash across it. What should I do now? It's a domed acrylic, so not gonna be easy/cheap to replace.


I would suggest that you use side 3, then side 2 and finally side 1. You might be surprised how easily that gash will come out, and you have nothing to lose by trying. And as Marrick says, worst case it's easy and cheap enough to replace.


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## Coykoicarp

Mirius said:


> I would suggest that you use side 3, then side 2 and finally side 1. You might be surprised how easily that gash will come out, and you have nothing to lose by trying. And as Marrick says, worst case it's easy and cheap enough to replace.


Yep I was thinking of using side 2 now and try my luck. Side 3 looks a little rough. Tbh it isn't the money, it's just hard to find a domed acrylic where I am. The watchsmith specializes in Seiko an he told me he can't find a supplier either. A friend recommended sandpaper but it is a no-no? My area doesn't seem to have Polywatch, I'm still trying to find the Brasso. Are they commonly found at supermarkets or DIY/hardware stores?


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## Mirius

mickxa2 said:


> Yep I was thinking of using side 2 now and try my luck. Side 3 looks a little rough. Tbh it isn't the money, it's just hard to find a domed acrylic where I am. The watchsmith specializes in Seiko an he told me he can't find a supplier either. A friend recommended sandpaper but it is a no-no? My area doesn't seem to have Polywatch, I'm still trying to find the Brasso. Are they commonly found at supermarkets or DIY/hardware stores?


Well I guess crystals in Neverland could be an issue. In the real world any watch repairer can get these easily but we can't really suggest what parts suppliers you might try since we don't know where the nearest portal between Neverland and the real world might come out.

That aside there are any number of abrasive compounds you might try, but again it's hard to recommend since we don't know where you are.


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## Shum

It is odd...Can't you just order it from the Interweb like the rest of us?


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## joeuk

Try using Autosol, its a metal polish but works great on acrylic. You can normally find Autosol at local car parts suppliers. Its works out a damn side cheaper then polywatch due to the much larger tube AUTOSOL SOLVOL CHROME ALUMINIUM METAL POLISH (CARS/BIKES/HOME) | eBay


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## Coykoicarp

Shum said:


> It is odd...Can't you just order it from the Interweb like the rest of us?


No man, it doesn't deliver. Haha, that aside, I got the 4 faces nail filer already. Here goes nothing.


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## Shum

mickxa2 said:


> No man, it doesn't deliver. Haha, that aside, I got the 4 faces nail filer already. Here goes nothing.


I have used fine sandpaper there I put a drop of olive oil on the paper so you always have a clear surface on the crystal making it easier to see.


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## Sparcster

mickxa2 said:


> Here goes nothing.


Patience at this time, is normally the best solution!

rushing to 'fix' the mistake when you dont have the correct tools/skills could lead to an unrepairable mistake.

To quote the OP, for others reading this in the future:

_The one thing i would say if you plan to do this, is: TRY IT ON A CHEAPY OR CRYSTAL THAT IS ONLY GOOD FOR THE BIN!!!_

Even with the coarsest nail file, I would have thought the damage could be fixed. Like Joe (and I have mentioned throughout the thread), Autosol is great to remove light scratches and finish the crystal off.

Good luck with the repair!


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## Coykoicarp

Sparcster said:


> Patience at this time, is normally the best solution!
> 
> rushing to 'fix' the mistake when you dont have the correct tools/skills could lead to an unrepairable mistake.
> 
> To quote the OP, for others reading this in the future:
> 
> _The one thing i would say if you plan to do this, is: TRY IT ON A CHEAPY OR CRYSTAL THAT IS ONLY GOOD FOR THE BIN!!!_
> 
> Even with the coarsest nail file, I would have thought the damage could be fixed. Like Joe (and I have mentioned throughout the thread), Autosol is great to remove light scratches and finish the crystal off.
> 
> Good luck with the repair!


Thanks so much dude! Side 3 looks quite rough but it's a lot smoother than side 4. I'm planning to use side 2 first for now. Would it be possible to still use side 3 if side 2 doesn't work? Logically, that doesn't really make sense; that is, to use side 3 after using side 2 lol.


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## Coykoicarp

All's good. Had fun doing this, thanks guys  sorry I forgot to take the before photos though.


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## JPH

I know this is resurrecting a good time dead already thread, but I just wanted to say thanks to the OP! This thread is still helping people out, what a great source!

Here's the problem:








And there it is finished:








I started with 800 grit waterproof sanding paper to even out the scratches, then used all but the coarsest side of the nail block and finished off with autosol. All done in less than an hour. :-!


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## marty491

I'm so glad I saw this thread. I have my Vostok in the shop getting serviced right now, as soon as it gets back I'm trying this! Thanks for the post and awesome tutorial!


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## johnna

Very nice! Gonna give this a try


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## QuartzCrisis

Thank you for resurrecting the old thread! It's great for people like me to learn. I'm very excited to try this


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