# WUS Feature: Calibre de Cartier Put To The Test



## Robert-Jan Broer

*Calibre de Cartier
*A review by Robert-Jan Broer








*Introduction*
Cartier is probably not the first brand that comes to mind when discussing or just thinking about mechanical timepieces. Although I am not sure whether this statement goes for women as well, I know only few men who have seriously considered owning a Cartier watch.

Although Cartier was the first to create a men's wristwatch in the early 1900s, for most men their focus is probably a bit too much on jewelry and design in general. With the exception of their expensive haute horlogerie line-up by the name of Cartier Paris Collection Privee (CPCP), it seems that Cartier's watches get less credits than they deserve by watch collectors.

Perhaps Cartier felt the same way, or simply thought that it was time to come up with something new for men (since the Santos 100), but during the SIHH in Geneva in 2010, they introduced the Calibre de Cartier.








At the same time, Cartier introduced their new in-house movement caliber 1904-PS MC that belongs to the Calibre de Cartier watches. This is a bi-directional winding movement that measures 25.6mm in diameter and only 4mm in height. It's dimensions, together with the power reserve of 48 hours and amplitude of 28.800 beats per hour (or bph) reminds me of the ETA 2892-A2, which has more or less the same specifications (it is a tad bit thinner though). While I am not implying anything here, it might be the case that Cartier is replacing the ETA 2892-A2 with this caliber 1904-PS MC movement in the next coming years.

*The Calibre de Cartier*
Although I've seen this watch a couple of times during watch shows in the last year, I've never had the chance to try one for a few days. Luckily, a few weeks ago, a brand new Calibre de Cartier came across my path and I was able to give it a spin.








Just like with most other Cartier watches, a lot of effort has been put in the design of the dial of this Calibre de Cartier. The oversized Roman 'XII' and the other Roman numerals on the upper part of the dial keep the stick markers and the large seconds sub dial on the lower part of the dial in perfect balance. The only thing I am not sure of is the large date aperture at 3 o'clock, displaying 3 dates at the same time. We've seen this on pilot watches before, such as IWC's famous Pilot Chronograph ref.3717. However, I personally don't favor this type of date windows on a dress watch.

Furthermore, the outer circle on the dial with the minute markers are again used on the sub dial, which creates a lot of harmony. One of the things that do bother me, besides the large date aperture, is the SWISS MADE wording in the outer ring. It disturbs the pattern too much in my opinion.

The case of the Calibre de Cartier is definitely masculine with its 42mm in diameter, perhaps even more masculine then their Santos 100 model. Fat lugs and a pair of thick crown guards make this watch remind me of the Luminor models by Officine Panerai, without being a copycat.








Looking at the watch from the side, you'll see the use of screws for the crown guards and the strap. On top of the winding crown, you will see a synthetic spinel cabochon that will remind you immediately again you are looking at a Cartier timepiece. Also, from a side angle you'll notice that the domed sapphire crystal is protected by the sleek bezel around it.

The Calibre de Cartier comes in different flavors, but I had obviously had the one with the leather strap. It is a very comfortable thin strap that suits the watch better than the stainless steel bracelet in my opinion, to each his own of course. In this configuration, you can either choose between a black dial and the silver/white dial that is fitted in this particular model. The gold models also have a brown dial as an option.








At the end of the leather alligator strap is a Cartier folding clasp. The clasp is one of the things that didn't impress me at all about this Calibre de Cartier. Although it fits perfectly around my wrist, the way the long end of the strap is attached to it is worrying me. It is simply fold around the buckle and is not safe guarded by a hole and a pin like we are used to. Although this clasp didn't fail on me during the few days I was able to lay my hands on it, the thought it is not secured does not comfort me.








During the introduction I already elaborated about the caliber 1904 PS-MC movement in this Cartier watch, but on the pictures you can see actually how nice it looks. A plain and simple hhmmss and date movement, with a full size rotor finished with Côtes de Genève. The bridge is finished with the same decoration as the rotor and the main plate has been circular grained.

As I've said before in other articles, I am not particularly fond of showing movements that are not THAt special, but I guess there is a certain crowd that likes to glance at the inner workings of their watch once in a while, despite the lack of complications or stunning engraving/skeletonizing work.








All the information you need about this Cartier is engraved in the case back around the sapphire crystal: the material of the watch, the fact that it is water resistant (it doesn't say to what level), produced in Switzerland, the model name, a production or serial number and the fact that it has an automatic movement. Engraving a case back with the wording 'automatic' while only 3mm from the automatic movement that can be seen through the transparent case back, seems kind of dumb actually. R&D and marketing fails to communicate with each other once more.









A size comparison shot between my own 39mm AP ROC and this 42mm Calibre de Cartier​
In the end, Cartier delivered a timepiece for men without a doubt. Calibre de Cartier is a masculine watch with an interesting in-house movement, superb finish on case and dial and in an interesting price level for a brand like Cartier. For approximately 5000,- Euro (list price), you will own a watch manufactured by a brand that has an impeccable history in watchmaking and you won't look bad between all the Rolex, Panerai and IWC watches at your office (or wherever you'll see nice watches).

The fact that the strap has been attached in a lousy manner to the clasp is a bit worrying for a watch in this price range, but I don't want to be premature about this as I haven't seen it failing or haven't heard about any problems with it (yet).

It certainly isn't a watch for me, although I was kind of excited about it at first, as the specifications and pictures were promising. The fact that Cartier had made a watch that is masculine, using an in-house movement but yet affordable (kind of) was intriguing, but we didn't connect at all. I could live with the strap and folding clasp if I had too, but the overall look & feel doesn't match me.

All photos by me.

Please let me know what you think about this Calibre de Cartier or Cartier watches in general!

Robert-Jan


----------



## Watchbreath

Now, let the Cartier-Haters start whining. Eight screws on the back to boot!


----------



## Robert-Jan Broer

Watchbreath said:


> Now, let the Cartier-Haters start whining. Eight screws on the back to boot!


As long as it's friendly whining 

RJ


----------



## Bfisher

Watches are the only jewelry a man can wear and Cartier does a great job at making beautiful, elegant watches... :-!
After seeing trainloads of overdesigned diver/sporty/military watches that can withstand doomsday but won't even touch tap water... I really enjoy the view of timepieces like this because of the accurate design of every smal dial detail


----------



## MZhammer

I'm one of the few who appreciate and hope to own a Cartier watch someday. I don't understand all the flaming sometimes but hopefully this will help quench the fire;-)


----------



## Xspect

I would wear it proudly. I wonder what the retail is on that watch


----------



## Preston

Nice watch, will try one out when my AD gets theirs in. Well said review as well.
Peace,
Preston


----------



## NWP627

Watchbreath said:


> Now, let the Cartier-Haters start whining. Eight screws on the back to boot!


Do you really think there are "Cartier-Haters" out there?
N


----------



## Gerard Nijenbrinks

Without questioning the design of the watch - which in fact isn't very much my thing - something what bothers me most is the construction and finishing of the 'new' in-house 1904.ps movement.









Look at all the holes in which something seems to be missing. I know that these holes are most probably used during construction (to fix the different parts to the tools and machines they were machined with) and/or to be used in the future when adding parts for other and more functions of the movement.

However for a company like Cartier being so into design and the looks of things, I'm sure they could have done a better job towards the looks of the movement. Cartier never has been very solid on the movement side, and nowadays they really give me the impression being eager to do something about that. I'm not sure if how this movement shows itself under the glass back is the way to go.

Regards,

Gerard Nijenbrinks
in2watches | this blog is&#8230; well it's all in the name


----------



## baronrojo

Thing is...this watch looks classier than a lot of watches out there. Really beautiful watch...to truly have a love for watches is to be able to appreciate all watches regardless of name...not just be a fanboy for a few brands. I would love to wear this watch with a nice suit.


----------



## Janne

I agree, the movement is less impressive than I thought it would be. In the past, Cartier bought in high Class movements from PP, JLC etc. Sometimes it is better to outsource some parts to the experts.


----------



## Watchbreath

How did you come up with, "Cartier has never been very solid on the movement side"?


Gerard Nijenbrinks said:


> Without questioning the design of the watch - which in fact isn't very much my thing - something what bothers me most is the construction and finishing of the 'new' in-house 1904.ps movement.
> 
> View attachment 457459
> 
> 
> Look at all the holes in which something seems to be missing. I know that these holes are most probably used during construction (to fix the different parts to the tools and machines they were machined with) and/or to be used in the future when adding parts for other and more functions of the movement.
> 
> However for a company like Cartier being so into design and the looks of things, I'm sure they could have done a better job towards the looks of the movement. Cartier never has been very solid on the movement side, and nowadays they really give me the impression being eager to do something about that. I'm not sure if how this movement shows itself under the glass back is the way to go.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Gerard Nijenbrinks
> in2watches | this blog is&#8230; well it's all in the name


----------



## Biased&Critical

Robert-Jan Broer said:


> *It's dimensions, together with the power reserve of 48 hours and amplitude of 28.800 beats per hour (or bph) reminds me of the ETA 2892-A2, which has more or less the same specifications (it is a tad bit thinner though). While I am not implying anything here, it might be the case that Cartier is replacing the ETA 2892-A2 with this caliber 1904-PS MC movement in the next coming years.*​


*

Considering that Cartier is a Richemont brand, and not Swatch (who still claims to be leaving the sandbox), I'm sure they have a very vested in replacing ETA movements they have previously relied on. This particular movement is probably just a 3-hand with date today, but I imagine that it actually provides a framework for Cartier to expand on, and add to (chronographs, etc).

In fact, I find it interesting that we are not seeing more of this type of action from other non-Swatch brands. When the ETA doors do become closed to non-Swatch shops, are we all going to start paying a lot kless for the same watch that now runs on Sellita, etc, or will we see more manufacture muscle get flexed? Wouldn't it be great if we found ourselves in a position where in-house movements were not anomalous miracles (mainly) available for the wealthy only?*​


----------



## GX9901

I love the Caliber de Cartier. I think it looks great and hope to own one someday. It's certainly on my short list of watches that I really want.


----------



## Gerard Nijenbrinks

I guess your question has to be taken cynically...? As most of us know, until recently Cartier never produced movements. Not that the movements used were not good quality; they were probably not always very interesting, but of course, even the ETA's are at least reliable. However they were not Cartier's movements and so 'on the movement side' Cartier can't get any credit for them.

G



Watchbreath said:


> How did you come up with, "Cartier has never been very solid on the movement side"?


----------



## Janne

Cartier has in the past used far more interesting calibers than ETA. JLC, PP.
Or even this one.
I have tried to find a link to where somebody analises it, but failed. Of course, you can ing a CG clip on Youtubem as usual.

I might be crazy, but I would not mind a COSC grade ETA ( or Sellita !) with all the visual bells and whistles, in this watch.

I like the dial very much. The California style here is very appealing (to me at least)

Cartier has departed from the normal Cabochon here. Very, very flat, too flat to be called a Cabochon. and I can see some facettes?

I beleve it is called a Buff Cut?


----------



## Sodiac

I'm kind of surprised at myself, the usual Mr. Cynic, because I really like the looks of this watch, it has a nice combination of retro, modern and a bit o' bling (jeweled crown) to make it cool. The size seems perfect also. I may be one of the few that really likes the date window also. I'm also pleasantly sort of surprised at the price; I would have guessed a lot more, although 5k Euros is still a lot of dosh.


----------



## Watchbreath

Movements like the Piaget 500 and 430, GP 3300, THA 045 MONOP, F Piguet 1185, and a base from Renaud et 
Papi and JLC just might create some interest around these parts.


Gerard Nijenbrinks said:


> I guess your question has to be taken cynically...? As most of us know, until recently Cartier never produced movements. Not that the movements used were not good quality; they were probably not always very interesting, but of course, even the ETA's are at least reliable. However they were not Cartier's movements and so 'on the movement side' Cartier can't get any credit for them.
> 
> G


----------



## Janne

I discovered one HUGE design misstake. (IMHO)

The ridiculous Date window. If it is the 20th today, I think I know it was the 19th yesterday, and I can possibly make a guess that it will be the 21st tomorrow.

For me, the date window spoils the dial. Pity, as I felt that Father X-mas......


----------



## ImitationOfLife

Gorgeous watch, but I do agree with Janne; without the date window the dial would be perfect!

I've always been a big Cartier fan. I don't understand why a man wouldn't want to own one, especially nowadays with all the new models and such, though I guess my view is skewed because my dad has a Cartier and I've always loved it.

Cartier's tourbillion models are droolworthy.

I terribly want this one.


----------



## Watchbreath

b-) Yep, me thinks that's a Piaget 608 P. Slip on a Tortue XL Tourb and you'll be floating 
for days as well as running out of drool.


ImitationOfLife said:


> Gorgeous watch, but I do agree with Janne; without the date window the dial would be perfect!
> 
> I've always been a big Cartier fan. I don't understand why a man wouldn't want to own one, especially nowadays with all the new models and such, though I guess my view is skewed because my dad has a Cartier and I've always loved it.
> 
> Cartier's tourbillion models are droolworthy.
> 
> I terribly want this one.


----------



## carlhaluss

Thank you for the excellent review, Robert-Jan.:-!
I went to look at the Calibre de Cartier last Saturday. Since I have been reading about it on the various forums, and the Cartier website, it was almost instantly a watch that I knew would someday be mine! A very good friend of mine got a Santos Galbee a few weeks ago, and it was the first time that I really held a Cartier watch and took a close look at it. The fit and the finish, not to mention the accuracy of the ETA-based movement impressed me so much, that I started to do extensive research on all of the Cartier models online.
I have to say that I love this watch to the point that as soon as I saw it, I put down a deposit on it, and will get it in a couple of weeks.
At first, I had to agree about the large date aperture. Normally, I am not a fan of any date on my watches. Both of my watches now are Rolexes, an Explorer I 36mm and an Air-king 34mm, neither of which have dates. I find that usually the watchmakers don't make enough effort trying to make them an integral and attractive part of the dial. The date window on the Calibre de Cartier is beautifully done: beautifully framed, and inside that a bevelled edge and a background that matches that of the small seconds subdial. Plus the small black arrow pointing to the date in question. The only thing I still could not figure out, is why 3 dates have to be displayed? The mystery was solved by my AD: numerous times during the day, either the minute hand or the hour hand - or both - are positioned directly above the date, making it not readable. At least, when you can see the date on either side of the middle position, you can easily figure out what the correct date is. A small thing, maybe overkill, but at least the explanation satisfied me. As I said, I also love the way Cartier have designed it, so that it actually looks attractive, at least IMO.
I really preferred the silver dial in the online photos, and when I saw the watch in person I felt no different. To me, it really is the most classic of all the dials, and it looks gorgeus in many different lights. Inside the shop window, it looked silver, but inside the store it took on kind of a cream-coloured old world look.
I did not really take the time to look at a model with the strap, as I basically prefer the steel bracelets on watches. The bracelet on this timepiece was even more beautiful than I expected. I don't compare it to anything, although I had heard it had a Rolex Oyster bracelet feel to it. I feel that the detail on this bracelet is even better. Each link on the entire bracelet is screwed on, held by four screws, two on each side of the link. The one side of the link is basically the screw, and the other is the "nut" into which it screws. The clasp is lovely, and fits beautifully inside the bracelet. A lot of time and effort has gone into the detail of this bracelet, and even better to know that it is specially made for this watch.
I have never had a watch on my wrist that fits so well! Feels just like it was custom made for my wrist. It is not heavy, and for a fairly large watch like this, is quite thin at only 10mm.
I agree about the movement. I am not a big fan of watches with exhibition backs. However, since this watch does have one, I think a bit more effort could be made in the appearance department. Still, to me, it is not a big deal. I have been reading a bit about the movement, and there have been a number of mechanical innovations made. I won't go into that here, because my own mechanical abilities are not that great, and I would have a hard time explaining all the details satisfactorily.
Anyway, I have to say this is one of the most beautiful watches I have seen. I also agree about the lugs reminding one of Panerai, and also the crown guards to an extent, again not copying. I find that this is one of the best combinations of a dress watch and a casual watch. It is definitely a fine piece of jewellery as well. I consider watches to be the ultimate form of jewellery, especially for a man, and I find it totally appropriate and gratifying for Cartier to be in the business of making fine timepieces, in addition to other fine jewellery and accessories.
I find the watch to have an almost whimsical quality to it. I immediately thought of Caesar's Palace in Las Vegas when I first saw it. To me, it is a quality timepiece that is meant to be enjoyed with a good measure of fun. Something that one is proud to show off, and enriches one's life. I can't wait to have it on my wrist! Oh, and I have to mention the fine detailing of the case, especially the edges that are so carefully polished. Also, the bezel, and how the inside slopes downwards at an angle to the recessed bezel. So many details in this fine watch.
Sorry to ramble on, and thanks for reading!
Cheers,
Carl


----------



## ljb187

Size is my problem here, I've had it one a few times and this is a big 42mm watch. The Date window is another minor issue and Gerard Nijenbrinks' (eye opening for me) comments regarding the movement are certainly worthy of consideration. Having said all that I think this is one of the best looking watches in the world and if it was 38mm the title of this thead might as well have been Calibre de Cartier On My Wrist (though I now would have to give the movent's finishing some additional thought).


----------



## walrusmonger

Great review for a sexy watch!


----------



## tom_hanx

As usual, a GREAT write-up, Robert-Jan. Thank you for posting.

You asked for opinions, and I take this opportunity to share mine. To my mind, for the past 5 years Richemont has been gently re-positioning all brands of the maison, clearly investing a lot into new shine/light to uncover hidden values or possible growth niches for all. Without going too broad, Cartier has shown some impressive prototypes, at the bleeding edge of innovation. I will not be surprised if five or ten years down the road they try to position it as the second (next to ALS) gun pointing at PP. Heritage - check, history - check, brand - check, innovation - check. Fire in the hole!


----------



## rnp614

Kind of a necro-bump here but I just went to a Cartier boutique with my fiancee for our wedding bands and I happened to wander to the watch area and I totally fell in love with the black version of this watch on a bracelet....may be something I'm buying for myself as wedding gift.

Anyone have one of these?


----------



## 1855

Great review. I finally picked up mine yesterday but the watch failed me  After 3 hours of wearing it, the time was off by about half hour!
Readjusted the time, rewound the watch and after 1 hour, the time was late again. The second hand stopped a few times. Finally after 3 hours,
it totally stopped. Hugely disappointed. Could not believe I bought a lemon. Spoke to the authorized dealer. Going to head down to change to a new one!


----------



## Watchman Dan

Janne said:


> I discovered one HUGE design misstake. (IMHO)
> 
> The ridiculous Date window. If it is the 20th today, I think I know it was the 19th yesterday, and I can possibly make a guess that it will be the 21st tomorrow.
> 
> For me, the date window spoils the dial. Pity, as I felt that Father X-mas......


It actually is so you can still see the date if the hands are obscuring the date window.


----------



## Steve Armstrong

Great read! Thanks.


----------



## TLUX

Very nice!


----------

