# Sticky  Tips and tricks...



## GJ

Maybe the time has come to make a thread on ''the making of'' pictures.
Below I numbered a few tips and tricks to make some nice pictures.
If anyone has something to add on this thread, please do so, we are all here to learn from each other..

*Tips and tricks to make great Photo's&#8230;*

• get a tripod, they are cheap and give great result
• clean up your watches/objects before taking pictures ( if possible)
• try working with daylight, it gives the best results
• Use a light box against difficult light reflections, a white plastic bucket will do fine
• If the light is no good, try white sheets of paper to capture ''more'' light
• Clear the background, remove all distracting objects
• Try shooting from angles, then you have less reflections
• If you are taking pictures of watches, make them smile, 10 past 10.
• Make sure that your white balance setting on the camera matches that of the light source to avoid yellow or blue tint on the picture(if that feature is on your camera)

I would like to thank Chip for sharing his thoughts with me on this one..


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## BathysHawaii

Great tips Gerard! I wanted to add a couple more suggestions to this impressive list...

• Use glycerin if you want to give the watch a "wet" look...It stays put, forms nice round droplets, has higher refractive index than plain water so it "pops" more on a photograph. But beware..it gets all over everything..including your camera gear, so pack a special towel for cleaning up.

• Without moving the watch, widely "bracket" your exposures - from as much as +2 to -2...this will create different images, some very dark, some very light. By using the "masking" tool in Photoshop, you can pick though the images and combine them to make one "perfect" image. Doing this allows you to get a much better detail in both the shadows AND the highlights. This is the way almost all professional studios get the killer shots. I do this using early morning daylight (so there aren't shadows on the dial) down at the beach. What you will find is that the darker exposures are good for keeping reflections off the crystal to a minimum, while the overexposed images are good for showing details of the case, crown, etc. I will try to add more to this post later to show an example of how this is done, but if you understand how to use Photoshop, you can probably do this on your own....*

• Shoot using a LOT of depth of field (i.e f22 or so...), this will make sure ALL of the watch is in focus, and then using Photoshops "blur" you can throw the band, etc out of focus exactly as much as you like later on....

• Try to use a polarizing filter to further reduce reflections. In my studio I actually have studio flashes that have polarizing gels over them to create polarized _indoor _light, then when I use a polarizing filter on the lens, reflections are cut to nearly zero. I still prefer to use daylight though....

• Of course, don't forget to set the time to the industry standard of 10:08:38 to allow the logo, watch model to be seen clearly on the dial.

• Although they ARE expensive, for anyone who is watch-crazy enough to be reading this, I would suggest a dedicated macro lens. I use a Tamron 90mm 2.8 on a Nikon D70, and this is a pretty good set up... But as someone who really digs using older equipment, you could easily get a dedicated macro lens on a 35mm camera on eBay for pretty cheap and get just as good results. I have a $250 4x5 Speed Graphic from 1958 that can take pictures WAAY sharper than my Nikon....So it's not a matter of having the latest/greatest gear...much more a matter of....

• ....PRACTICE! This is the #1 best way to get better. The first time you try, you'll see so much dust, spots, fingerprints, reflections, etc. etc. that you'll be embarrassed. After just a couple tries, you'll be shooting like a pro no doubt.

OK, well here's two images that were done this way. The silver Bathys was done by a professional graphic artist. The UV Bathys was done by me (and in fact it's still not really done yet, maybe about 80% done..). Each image already has 3-6 hours of work in it. 
You can also see how the artist made the cool fake "shadow" as well...I've got to ask him about that!

















Compare these to a "plain" image using tripod/macro lens/daylight and no retouching....









So you can get a nice image without all the retouching, but it lacks that final "jump off the page" look.

Now that I've let the cat out of the bag, go look through WatchTime, etc and look very carefully at things like the dial ring, the numbers, the shadows, and I think you'll start to see the little touches that have been added later on....I'm looking now at this Breguet ad with Winston Churchill - look at the areas at the periphery of the dial and you can see the retouching..it's just too perfect - the crystal would cause small distortions and reflections that have all been removed. And of course, look carefully at that shadow...it's not real..it's the Breguet "B"! Tricky bastards!

Hope some of these suggestions prove helpful. Let's hear more since learning is a lifetime thing....

* *ALL *the women (and men too btw) we see in magazines, fashion, Playboy bunnies, etc. are *extensively* retouched in this way (besides all the hair/makeup/body makeup). They do stuff like "blend" away *every* blemish on the model's skin then go back in and ADD back in moles, fuzz, beauty marks...exactly as many as the client wants to make her look (cough) "natural"....

So if _your_ girl don't look like dat...no blame 'er! NOBODY really looks like that!


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## 200mmmm

*Thanks for the tips, but...*

I have been trying to find good info about photographing watches on so many sites, so much of the info seem to be false fixes. I want to shoot a black face diver straight on, without reflections or shadows in or on the face.

Many people have told me i have to have a lightbox, so I made one.

Well, I should have noticed that all the photos i liked had White of Silver faced watches, not dark or black!

Why you ask, does that make a difference? Well, with light colored dials you can get a nice photo, with a dark face the crystal turns into a wonderful mirror. and you see everything going on. Lightboxes are not a Cure all.

Does anyone have a way of shooting a dark faced watch without reflections?

Thanks 200m


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## rikrose

For photographing my KHS Shadow Blue Mk II watch with Tritium tubes in, there's a good challenge - the exposure needs to be long enough in a dark environment that the tritium tubes show up, but there needs to be enough light to expose the rest of the image properly.

I have available my Canon 20D, a non-macro lens, my canon speedlight, and a tripod. I waited until about 02:00, so it was as dark as it's going to get, and used to following setup:

Self-timer, because I didn't have a cable release.
ISO 100 - I'm doing long exposure anyway, I may as well get the best capture possible
Long exposure noise reduction - turned on in custom functions. Same reasoning as above
30 second exposure, f/4.5 - I would have liked to have used f/17 or up, but the camera didn't have timings for beyond 30 seconds. Since the face was pretty much flat on to me, with no external light sources to get glare from, and I didn't care about the background, I got away with it, I think. Now I have a cable release, I could try again for a higher f-stop and longer time.

On the Speedlight, I used second curtain flash. Second-curtain flash is where the flash fires at the end of the shutter being open, instead of at the start.

Why did I use this technique with my watch? There's a tritium tube in the second hand. With first-curtain flash, the second hand would be exposed correctly, and then it would be invisible to the camera, except for the tritium tube. It would continue to tick throughout the exposure. The hand would appear, and the "ticks" would appear in front. With second curtain flash, the "ticks" where the hand has been appear behind it, like the outline of a cartoon character it sleft behind when they run away really really fast. See the full sized version and you can see the ticks left behind by the second hand as it goes.

It looks odd using first-curtain flash.

Unfortunately, my photo looks odd because it also looks blue. That's just my lack of other skills. Bringing up more light meant that I lost the green tritium tube in the bezel, due to the reflection off the metal surround, so I left it looking "cool blue". I suspect that I'll re-do this one, now I have a cable release.

The final image is below. It's a link to the flickr page, so click on it to go there, and click "All Sizes" above the image to see the high-res version.



I hope this was helpful, and if not, I hope someone else can point out what I did wrong


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## McKenzie

Hi,
Ref; the unwanted relections.... might be worth trying a polarizing filter??? I have not tried tis yet but it may do the trick.

Steve


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## rikrose

McKenzie said:


> Hi,
> Ref; the unwanted relections.... might be worth trying a polarizing filter??? I have not tried tis yet but it may do the trick.
> 
> Steve


That it could well do. i haven't got one, but I'll borrow one and give it a try.

In the meantime, I got a new one, and took a photo...


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## rikrose

This is the new one - serial number 42 of 199 (yes, I know where my towel is). It's a Titan Commander Pro, again from KHS. It's all Titanium, and looks awfully good with my suit. 

For this one, I angled it back, used f/10 instead of f/3.5 and manually fired the flash on 29 seconds. The flash was away from the camera body, up near the ceiling to create a big general whiteness, and managed to avoid reflections on it. The added depth of field was really worth doing, and had I been more awake, I'd have attempted at f/14 or higher, and manual shutter with the remote release.

The touching up was adding some fill light in Picasa, but that's all I've done. I should have tweaked brightness/contrast too.


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## DragonJade

rikrose said:


> This is the new one - serial number 42 of 199 (yes, I know where my towel is). It's a Titan Commander Pro, again from KHS. It's all Titanium, and looks awfully good with my suit.
> 
> For this one, I angled it back, used f/10 instead of f/3.5 and manually fired the flash on 29 seconds. The flash was away from the camera body, up near the ceiling to create a big general whiteness, and managed to avoid reflections on it. The added depth of field was really worth doing, and had I been more awake, I'd have attempted at f/14 or higher, and manual shutter with the remote release.
> 
> The touching up was adding some fill light in Picasa, but that's all I've done. I should have tweaked brightness/contrast too.


Very nice. What's the difference between this and the MKII?


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## whachudoin

How do you take lume pictures in the dark? I have a Canon Powershot A620. What setting do I use?

Thanks.


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## NoTx

Hey all, I am new to this forum, but I figured I would comment on this thread... as I LOVE photography. So far, the comments have been interesting, but I thought I would throw out a few modifications and extra suggestions.

When people talk about shooting at an angle, and how it reduces reflection and what not... something even more important is that if you use a flash, that its light wont bouce directly into a lens. Most often this will take anything shiny, and turn it black.

And when shoot really tight apertures... you really should look into using just the right amount of depth of field that you think the shot can get away with. If you have it, try using a depth of field preview and you will get an idea of what is in focus. Why do this instead of just as closed tight as you can? Diffraction. At a certain point, any camera starts losing quality in its photos due to the light just not hitting at the right angle. Each format is different. Life Fourthirds, APS-C or 35mm. But you just need to look up your format.

Oh, and if you are using a tripod... turn of image stabilization if you have it

And now back to your regulary scheduled program.


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## KRW

whachudoin said:


> How do you take lume pictures in the dark? I have a Canon Powershot A620. What setting do I use?
> 
> Thanks.


whachudoing,

Set your camera to manual mode (M) and shoot away. Once you set your f-stop adjust your exposure accordingly. Play around, increase exposure until you get what you are looking for.

krw:-!


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## cappoldt

The thing to remember re angles and shootign anything with a reflective surface is that at the end of the day, you're looking to sculpt and photograph JUST the reflection - that will let the rest of the image fall into place.

So, get the the watch into position, hands as they should be, etc...then start to look through that viewfinder and examine how the REFLECTION of the white diffusion material - be it paper or a milk bottle or whatever - is acting on the watch. Move just the paper/diffuser from there, closer, further, up, down...move the light behind them further, up, closer, down...see how it reacts.

Some really cool links...

...How to take it one step further: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/08/on-assignment-shoot-your-shiny-new.html

A DIY watch photog whose work, done with minimal fuss, always thrills me
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mingthein/sets/72157594566793600/

Chris


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## yermano

rikrose said:


> This is the new one - serial number 42 of 199 (yes, I know where my towel is). It's a Titan Commander Pro, again from KHS. It's all Titanium, and looks awfully good with my suit.
> 
> For this one, I angled it back, used f/10 instead of f/3.5 and manually fired the flash on 29 seconds. The flash was away from the camera body, up near the ceiling to create a big general whiteness, and managed to avoid reflections on it. The added depth of field was really worth doing, and had I been more awake, I'd have attempted at f/14 or higher, and manual shutter with the remote release.
> 
> The touching up was adding some fill light in Picasa, but that's all I've done. I should have tweaked brightness/contrast too.


nice watch nice picture glad to hear you know where your towel is:-d am using mine to keep warm as i type... keep up the good work


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## MikalNY

thanks for sharing these great tips


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## EScheidl

rikrose,

That is really a cool watch. And you did a great job photographing it!

Ever since I saw it I can't get it out of my head.|> Is there a place that sells them in the US?

I think I have been seriously bitten by the KHS bug.:-!



rikrose said:


> This is the new one - serial number 42 of 199 (yes, I know where my towel is). It's a Titan Commander Pro, again from KHS. It's all Titanium, and looks awfully good with my suit.
> 
> For this one, I angled it back, used f/10 instead of f/3.5 and manually fired the flash on 29 seconds. The flash was away from the camera body, up near the ceiling to create a big general whiteness, and managed to avoid reflections on it. The added depth of field was really worth doing, and had I been more awake, I'd have attempted at f/14 or higher, and manual shutter with the remote release.
> 
> The touching up was adding some fill light in Picasa, but that's all I've done. I should have tweaked brightness/contrast too.


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## Mangi1

EScheidl said:


> rikrose,
> 
> That is really a cool watch. And you did a great job photographing it!
> 
> Ever since I saw it I can't get it out of my head.|> Is there a place that sells them in the US?
> 
> I think I have been seriously bitten by the KHS bug.:-!


Read this post...great advice. However photos of my watch with my Casio Exilim 7.2 still are fuzzy. Any advice?

Thanks


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## Leixlip

Just came across this post today.
Good advice NEVER goes out of date, thanks.


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## audphile1

few shots I just took with the T1i. Available light, without flash. I have to play with the White Balance settings some more. For now I just left the camera in an AWB mode. Images came out looking like a saturated sepia toning effect, which I kind of like for its warm colors, but it wasn't my intention. The light source was a halogen floor lamp. I have to experiment with the WB on this camera...I'm still learing the settings.

I think I made few mistakes here, including the WB setting and the fact that I forgot to disable the Image Stabilization on the lens while taking shots with a tripod mounted camera...not sure what this caused...

Any tips or tricks as far as working with available light such as halogen lamps? Appreciate your feedback.


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## Fabricioab

OMG!

Very nice pics, thankz for this!


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## jackportd

*Tips for Great Pictures*

Do you wish you were a better photographer? All it takes is a little know-how and experience. Keep reading for some important picture-taking tips. Then grab your camera and start shooting your way to great pictures.
Look your subject in the eye
Direct eye contact can be as engaging in a picture as it is in real life. When taking a picture of someone, hold the camera at the person's eye level to unleash the power of those magnetic gazes and mesmerizing smiles. For children, that means stooping to their level. And your subject need not always stare at the camera. All by itself that eye level angle will create a personal and inviting feeling that pulls you into the picture.
Use a plain backgroundA plain background shows off the subject you are photographing. When you look through the camera viewfinder, force yourself to study the area surrounding your subject. Make sure no poles grow from the head of your favorite niece and that no cars seem to dangle from her ears.
Use flash outdoorsBright sun can create unattractive deep facial shadows. Eliminate the shadows by using your flash to lighten the face. When taking people pictures on sunny days, turn your flash on. You may have a choice of fill-flash mode or full-flash mode. If the person is within five feet, use the fill-flash mode; beyond five feet, the full-power mode may be required. With a digital camera, use the picture display panel to review the results. 
On cloudy days, use the camera's fill-flash mode if it has one. The flash will brighten up people's faces and make them stand out. Also take a picture without the flash, because the soft light of overcast days sometimes gives quite pleasing results by itself.
Move in close
If your subject is smaller than a car, take a step or two closer before taking the picture and zoom in on your subject. Your goal is to fill the picture area with the subject you are photographing. Up close you can reveal telling details, like a sprinkle of freckles or an arched eyebrow. 
But don't get too close or your pictures will be blurry. The closest focusing distance for most cameras is about three feet, or about one step away from your camera. If you get closer than the closest focusing distance of your camera (see your manual to be sure), your pictures will be blurry.
Move it from the middle
Center-stage is a great place for a performer to be. However, the middle of your picture is not the best place for your subject. Bring your picture to life by simply moving your subject away from the middle of your picture. Start by playing tick-tack-toe with subject position. Imagine a tick-tack-toe grid in your viewfinder. Now place your important subject at one of the intersections of lines. 
You'll need to lock the focus if you have an auto-focus camera because most of them focus on whatever is in the center of the viewfinder.
Lock the focus
If your subject is not in the center of the picture, you need to lock the focus to create a sharp picture. Most auto-focus cameras focus on whatever is in the center of the picture. But to improve pictures, you will often want to move the subject away from the center of the picture. If you don't want a blurred picture, you'll need to first lock the focus with the subject in the middle and then recompose the picture so the subject is away from the middle. 
Usually you can lock the focus in three steps. First, center the subject and press and hold the shutter button halfway down. Second, reposition your camera (while still holding the shutter button) so the subject is away from the center. And third, finish by pressing the shutter button all the way down to take the picture
Know your flash's range
The number one flash mistake is taking pictures beyond the flash's range. Why is this a mistake? Because pictures taken beyond the maximum flash range will be too dark. For many cameras, the maximum flash range is less than fifteen feet-about five steps away. 
What is your camera's flash range? Look it up in your camera manual. Can't find it? Then don't take a chance. Position yourself so subjects are no farther than ten feet away. Film users can extend the flash range by using Kodak Max versatility or versatility plus film.
Watch the light
Next to the subject, the most important part of every picture is the light. It affects the appearance of everything you photograph. On a great-grandmother, bright sunlight from the side can enhance wrinkles. But the soft light of a cloudy day can subdue those same wrinkles. 
Don't like the light on your subject? Then move yourself or your subject. For landscapes, try to take pictures early or late in the day when the light is orangish and rakes across the land. 
Take some vertical pictures 
Is your camera vertically challenged? It is if you never turn it sideways to take a vertical picture. All sorts of things look better in a vertical picture. From a lighthouse near a cliff to the Eiffel Tower to your four-year-old niece jumping in a puddle. So next time out, make a conscious effort to turn your camera sideways and take some vertical pictures.
Be a picture director
Take control of your picture-taking and watch your pictures dramatically improve. Become a picture director, not just a passive picture-taker. A picture director takes charge. A picture director picks the location: "Everybody go outside to the backyard." A picture director adds props: "Girls, put on your pink sunglasses." A picture director arranges people: "Now move in close, and lean toward the camera." 
Most pictures won't be that involved, but you get the idea: Take charge of your pictures and win your own best picture awards.


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## 1mowatch

Great forum..
I'm just starting to play with my Olympus SLR. I guess lighting has alot do with making a fine picture.


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## DragonDan

1mowatch said:


> I guess lighting has a lot do with making a fine picture.


Yup, Photography literally means 'writing with light'. If you're a photographer, then you are a student of light. Think of terms of quality of light. Which would you rather lay your eyes on, a photo of a nice watch under harsh fluorescent tubes, or soft late-afternoon springtime sunshine?

That's only the start, then there's the technical side of photography, meaning knowing enough about your equipment to do what you are trying to do. Composition plays a huge part as well.

I do disagree with some earlier posts that say shoot at f/22. All SLR lenses have a 'sweet spot', usually towards the middle of its aperture range. There is a point of diminishing returns (dealing with depth of field and sharpness) when shooting really stopped down. Do a quick search for Diffraction and Circle of Confusion. I get pretty good results with my EF 17-40mm f/4L stopped down to f/16.
Your mileage may vary!


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## dewaltwest

May have already been discussed but a tripod is helpful and dont be afraid to use a high ISO if you are shooting handheld. Many new cameras even point and shoot have decent higher ISO settings that can make a handheld photo easier to achieve. 

Also something I always do is set a custom white balance. I use a gray card with is a very inexpensive way to match your existing lighting. If yo do not know how to do that with your camera look at your instruction manual and find out how to set a custom white balance with your camera (not all cameras have this function but many do). You will be amazed at how it helps match the lighting environment you are in. (You may notice some photos overly yellow or blue when trying to capture your photo)

There are many online resources on product photography, setting custom white balance and mixing ambient light and flash.


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## Flex1493

OMG My girl is going to kill. I love this Forum. Now I pick a new Hobby. Im getting into photography. Well nothing to crazy. just to learn how to take photos. Thanks guys for all the info. I need it. lol


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## jaden1

Keep reading for some important picture taking tips:-
1. Look your subject in the eye
2. Use a plain background
3. Use flash outdoors
4. Move in close
5. Move it from the middle
6. Lock the focus
7. Know your flash's range
8. Watch the light
9. Take some vertical pictures
10.Be a picture director


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## reardenman

Can anybody recommend a good video camera for close up watch videos that I can post on YouTube?

Thanks in advance!


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## lyodakin

T2i works great for video. Take a look youtube.

Great tips guys!


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## sethtyler

I also strongly recommend using indirect flash in most cases. Try bouncing off walls or ceilings, even an off-camera flash if you have remote poppers or a capable flash. (Remote poppers can be had very cheaply from the internet)

In my opinion this will create some softer light, more filling light and will bring out more character of the watch or whatever subject you're shooting.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## imaCoolRobot

Shoot in RAW, white balance using a grey card. Do a colour profile with something like this X-Rite: MSCCC : ColorChecker Classic
I'm going to try a painting with light photo of a watch.
I can't set mine to the 2:08:38 time because it would do my head in to see the wrong time on my watch


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## Simon-Pierre

So many things to learn...


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## drDubbelklick

audphile1 said:


> few shots I just took with the T1i. Available light, without flash. I have to play with the White Balance settings some more. For now I just left the camera in an AWB mode. Images came out looking like a saturated sepia toning effect, which I kind of like for its warm colors, but it wasn't my intention. The light source was a halogen floor lamp. I have to experiment with the WB on this camera...I'm still learing the settings.
> 
> I think I made few mistakes here, including the WB setting and the fact that I forgot to disable the Image Stabilization on the lens while taking shots with a tripod mounted camera...not sure what this caused...
> 
> Any tips or tricks as far as working with available light such as halogen lamps? Appreciate your feedback.


I don't know if this has been discussed before, but I use a grey card to obtain correct color temperature. One can be found at LensAlign - WhiBal, another at Digi Grey


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## Zanotti

Does anyone use this led panels or light brite panels? I see they are coming down in price radically and might put finer points of light on a watch subject?


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## SeikoAutomatic_01

I almost always use flash when taking watch pics. It gives me more control of the lighting and I don't need a long shutter speed that will blur the second hand. I use external flash and bounce it off of a white ceiling or walls. If there's glare on the watch crystal then aim the flash at a different part of the ceiling and try again. To simulate directional but soft "window" light, aim the flash at a wall to the side you want the light to come from. And many times I will fire the flash at a lower power and underexpose a little to give the image a low lighted indoor look.


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## Zanotti

Thanks!


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## SeikoAutomatic_01

Here's a tip for making the dial look vibrant and contrasty as if the crystal had been removed. I just got this uploaded to Youtube.


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## watchobs

Some good solid suggestions! Thanks!


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## gregormax

If you're using a DSLR I would highly suggest to use a good prime 35-55mm lens. Also shoot in RAW if possible - it gives you just great possibilities in Photoshop with the Camera RAW filter. You'll be able to tweak your picture in many ways and the pictures would look pro.


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## Paul Walker

Thanks for all tips , helped alot


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## HanWatchHan

Thanks for the great tips!


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## translog

Your YouTube demo was very informative Seiko Automatic thank you again.

Pierre


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## watchcho

Awesome info. I just purchased a Sony RX100 V and I'm still playing with different lighting and angles to get the perfect pictures for my watches. I'll post some pictures soon


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## huntfortime

GJ said:


> Maybe the time has come to make a thread on ''the making of'' pictures.
> Below I numbered a few tips and tricks to make some nice pictures.
> If anyone has something to add on this thread, please do so, we are all here to learn from each other..
> 
> *Tips and tricks to make great Photo's&#8230;*
> 
> • get a tripod, they are cheap and give great result
> • clean up your watches/objects before taking pictures ( if possible)
> • try working with daylight, it gives the best results
> • Use a light box against difficult light reflections, a white plastic bucket will do fine
> • If the light is no good, try white sheets of paper to capture ''more'' light
> • Clear the background, remove all distracting objects
> • Try shooting from angles, then you have less reflections
> • If you are taking pictures of watches, make them smile, 10 past 10.
> • Make sure that your white balance setting on the camera matches that of the light source to avoid yellow or blue tint on the picture(if that feature is on your camera)
> 
> I would like to thank Chip for sharing his thoughts with me on this one..


Thanks for the tips. I'll be conscious of this in the future with some of my photo's.


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## crashpad

Just discovered black acrylic glass and it is 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jjonesfc

The tips are good. Not sure how to use the bucket though...


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## jjonesfc

When you use the acrylic glass is your aim to showcase the watch and its beauty or for detail? And what kind of lighting are you using?


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## jhwarthog

Thanks for the tips!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## crashpad

jjonesfc said:


> When you use the acrylic glass is your aim to showcase the watch and its beauty or for detail? And what kind of lighting are you using?


I think it just a nice clean photo. I like the subtle reflections and without any background it lets the watch be the sole focus. The light box all white background photos to me are clean, but seems like just another website stock photo to me. 
Lighting can be tricky but a light bar or just a nice white bulb lamp works fine.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## asilker

This thread is fantastic. 

I'm shooting with a Fuji T2 and I've enjoyed good detail with the Fuji lenses I've owned. Does anyone here adapt vintage Macro lenses? I don't feel the need to spring for a modern AF macro lens since I shoot stationary objects when I'm doing detail work, so I'm wondering if there's a vintage MF lens out there that people have had great results with.

Looking for sharpness


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## distinguish1906

Awesome tips and tricks. Appreciate the info!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Msb7

awesome


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## markfoto40

GJ said:


> Maybe the time has come to make a thread on ''the making of'' pictures.
> Below I numbered a few tips and tricks to make some nice pictures.
> If anyone has something to add on this thread, please do so, we are all here to learn from each other..
> 
> *Tips and tricks to make great Photo's&#8230;*
> 
> • get a tripod, they are cheap and give great result
> • clean up your watches/objects before taking pictures ( if possible)
> • try working with daylight, it gives the best results
> • Use a light box against difficult light reflections, a white plastic bucket will do fine
> • If the light is no good, try white sheets of paper to capture ''more'' light
> • Clear the background, remove all distracting objects
> • Try shooting from angles, then you have less reflections
> • If you are taking pictures of watches, make them smile, 10 past 10.
> • Make sure that your white balance setting on the camera matches that of the light source to avoid yellow or blue tint on the picture(if that feature is on your camera)
> 
> I would like to thank Chip for sharing his thoughts with me on this one..


Timeless tips, thanks!


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## jlbr1

I personally use a white backdrop with many different color options that I got from amazon for $27 USD. It is simple, efficient and effective. It makes the pictures look professional, also do not invest in cameras, Iphone resolutions or any current smart phones will do the job.


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## distinguish1906

Good stuff. Thanks gents!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mihoward

Are y'all waiting for the watch to stop in order to keep the second hand from sweeping - or are you just saying f-it and running with the blur of the sweep?


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## mihoward

Also - if the watch doesn't have hacking, are most of you still trying to maintain the 'industry standard' for hand placement? (10:10.38 etc)


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## The_kman

Thanks for all the good tips !

I would love some feedback on my watch photos and i have plenty right here :

Watch Reviews - Microbrands under the magnifying glass | Hype & Style

The hardest was probably to shoot inside as the outdoor light is simply perfect!

Here is what i have learned :


Shoot outside with lightly cloudy weather
Shoot with a Reflex camera and shoot with RAW. RAW enables you to fiddle with light options when you put the photo in Photoshop, and you can also add more details to the picture.
Find cool textures to shoot the watch on. Construction sites, parks and old churches has some nice textured surfaces.
Get better a photoshop... Duuuh
Use you Smartphone for good close ups if you don't have a macro lens. The newer smartphones have GREAT cameras, but you need your light to be good.
Don't always set the time to 10 past 10... It doesn't look genuine, but of course you should avoid times like 12 o'clock or when the hands are hiding the date aperture.
Take pictures of the watch without the bracelet. It looks hella cool (check my CODE41 Review).
For dive watches, shooting on concrete when it's raining is fun. Shoot dress watches inside in a fancy restaurant.. Use the terrain to tell the story... I shot the UNDONE Aqua in a small river for example.
For lume shots, use RAW and shoot in low light but where you can still get a good focus... Then just lower the expsure in Photoshop!


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## labcoatguy

asilker said:


> This thread is fantastic.
> 
> I'm shooting with a Fuji T2 and I've enjoyed good detail with the Fuji lenses I've owned. Does anyone here adapt vintage Macro lenses? I don't feel the need to spring for a modern AF macro lens since I shoot stationary objects when I'm doing detail work, so I'm wondering if there's a vintage MF lens out there that people have had great results with.
> 
> Looking for sharpness


I use an ancient Kilfitt Macro-Kilar on my Olympus OM-D, and it's quite nice to use. I found it at an antiques store and apparently it's rather rare, so I can't recommend it outright if you're looking for a lens, but in general these old macro lenses work pretty well so long as you are sure to stop them down. You can kind of see the lens reflected in my Grand Seiko here:


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## CVK

This thread is very educative. Learnt some new tricks here.


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## Time-Machines

Amazing tips and tricks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## stonecastle

BathysHawaii said:


> Great tips Gerard! I wanted to add a couple more suggestions to this impressive list...
> 
> • Use glycerin if you want to give the watch a "wet" look...It stays put, forms nice round droplets, has higher refractive index than plain water so it "pops" more on a photograph. But beware..it gets all over everything..including your camera gear, so pack a special towel for cleaning up.
> 
> • Without moving the watch, widely "bracket" your exposures - from as much as +2 to -2...this will create different images, some very dark, some very light. By using the "masking" tool in Photoshop, you can pick though the images and combine them to make one "perfect" image. Doing this allows you to get a much better detail in both the shadows AND the highlights. This is the way almost all professional studios get the killer shots. I do this using early morning daylight (so there aren't shadows on the dial) down at the beach. What you will find is that the darker exposures are good for keeping reflections off the crystal to a minimum, while the overexposed images are good for showing details of the case, crown, etc. I will try to add more to this post later to show an example of how this is done, but if you understand how to use Photoshop, you can probably do this on your own....*
> 
> • Shoot using a LOT of depth of field (i.e f22 or so...), this will make sure ALL of the watch is in focus, and then using Photoshops "blur" you can throw the band, etc out of focus exactly as much as you like later on....
> 
> • Try to use a polarizing filter to further reduce reflections. In my studio I actually have studio flashes that have polarizing gels over them to create polarized _indoor _light, then when I use a polarizing filter on the lens, reflections are cut to nearly zero. I still prefer to use daylight though....
> 
> • Of course, don't forget to set the time to the industry standard of 10:08:38 to allow the logo, watch model to be seen clearly on the dial.
> 
> • Although they ARE expensive, for anyone who is watch-crazy enough to be reading this, I would suggest a dedicated macro lens. I use a Tamron 90mm 2.8 on a Nikon D70, and this is a pretty good set up... But as someone who really digs using older equipment, you could easily get a dedicated macro lens on a 35mm camera on eBay for pretty cheap and get just as good results. I have a $250 4x5 Speed Graphic from 1958 that can take pictures WAAY sharper than my Nikon....So it's not a matter of having the latest/greatest gear...much more a matter of....
> 
> • ....PRACTICE! This is the #1 best way to get better. The first time you try, you'll see so much dust, spots, fingerprints, reflections, etc. etc. that you'll be embarrassed. After just a couple tries, you'll be shooting like a pro no doubt.
> 
> OK, well here's two images that were done this way. The silver Bathys was done by a professional graphic artist. The UV Bathys was done by me (and in fact it's still not really done yet, maybe about 80% done..). Each image already has 3-6 hours of work in it.
> You can also see how the artist made the cool fake "shadow" as well...I've got to ask him about that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare these to a "plain" image using tripod/macro lens/daylight and no retouching....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you can get a nice image without all the retouching, but it lacks that final "jump off the page" look.
> 
> Now that I've let the cat out of the bag, go look through WatchTime, etc and look very carefully at things like the dial ring, the numbers, the shadows, and I think you'll start to see the little touches that have been added later on....I'm looking now at this Breguet ad with Winston Churchill - look at the areas at the periphery of the dial and you can see the retouching..it's just too perfect - the crystal would cause small distortions and reflections that have all been removed. And of course, look carefully at that shadow...it's not real..it's the Breguet "B"! Tricky bastards!
> 
> Hope some of these suggestions prove helpful. Let's hear more since learning is a lifetime thing....
> 
> * *ALL *the women (and men too btw) we see in magazines, fashion, Playboy bunnies, etc. are *extensively* retouched in this way (besides all the hair/makeup/body makeup). They do stuff like "blend" away *every* blemish on the model's skin then go back in and ADD back in moles, fuzz, beauty marks...exactly as many as the client wants to make her look (cough) "natural"....
> 
> So if _your_ girl don't look like dat...no blame 'er! NOBODY really looks like that!


Thanks for all the hints and tips!


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## dmac6848

GJ said:


> Maybe the time has come to make a thread on ''the making of'' pictures.
> Below I numbered a few tips and tricks to make some nice pictures.
> If anyone has something to add on this thread, please do so, we are all here to learn from each other..
> 
> *Tips and tricks to make great Photo's&#8230;*
> 
> • get a tripod, they are cheap and give great result
> • clean up your watches/objects before taking pictures ( if possible)
> • try working with daylight, it gives the best results
> • Use a light box against difficult light reflections, a white plastic bucket will do fine
> • If the light is no good, try white sheets of paper to capture ''more'' light
> • Clear the background, remove all distracting objects
> • Try shooting from angles, then you have less reflections
> • If you are taking pictures of watches, make them smile, 10 past 10.
> • Make sure that your white balance setting on the camera matches that of the light source to avoid yellow or blue tint on the picture(if that feature is on your camera)
> 
> I would like to thank Chip for sharing his thoughts with me on this one..


great tips


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## Travis Gaudette

stonecastle said:


> Thanks for all the hints and tips!


Very cool


Thank you,
JLM LuxTimepieces
250-991-8728


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## DayveW

rikrose said:


> That it could well do. i haven't got one, but I'll borrow one and give it a try.
> 
> In the meantime, I got a new one, and took a photo...


If you set your main light to be about 45 degrees to the watch face then you'll avoid getting the reflection in the crystal (assuming you are photographing the watch straight on). 

Also, make sure the area behind the camera is as dark as possible to reduce reflections in the crystal.

If that still produces unwanted reflections then a polarising filter over the lens AND a sheet of polarising gel over the light will allow what is known as cross polarisation. With this technique you rotate the lens filter and it remove most reflections entirely. The problem with this method is the expensive gels for the light (and don't use hot lights with them!)

Hope that helps


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