# The many faces of the Zenith El Primero Espada



## Michael Weare

Presenting the many faces of the new Zenith El Primero Espada, a three-handed watch for 2012, styled with all the restraint and refinement that have now become a signature of the brand. On the face of it, the Zenith designers have been ratcheting up thousands in overtime by creating every variation they can possibly conceive, and inevitably some are better than others.

But nonetheless, classical styling and traditional values which made Zenith special in the first place are back. The El Primero Espada will definitely please most Zenith traditionalists.

It comes with a sensibly sized 40mm stainless steel case and handsome applied indices and faceted hands. The date window is at three o'clock. Inside is the famous automatic in-house Zenith El Primero 4650B with 50 hours of power reserve, the first edition of this movement was introduced in 1969 and is arguably the first high frequency chronograph which beats at 36,000 vph, but it is undeniably the first with an integrated winding mechanism.



















Refreshingly *not *Limited Edition, the Zenith El Primero Espada will be available in black, white or a very vintage silver dial editions.

*Specifications
*
Movement : El Primero 4650 B, automatic
Calibre : 13¼"` (Diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness : 5.58 mm
Components : 210
Jewels : 22
Frequency : 36'000 VpH - (5 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 50 hours
Finishings : Oscillating weight with "Côtes de Genève" pattern.
Functions : Hours and minutes in the center, Central second hand, Date indicator at 3 o'clock
Case, Dial & Hands :18-carat rose gold and stainless steel; or stainless steel; or 18-carat rose gold with or without diamonds
Diameter : 40 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment on both sides
Case-back : Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Black, or brown, or silver sunray, or white; Brown with or without diamonds or white mother-of-pearl with baguette diamonds
Hour-markers: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted (with or without gold plating); Gold-plated rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted or 11 baguette diamonds or round diamonds
Hand : Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted (with or without gold plating); or Gold-plated rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted 
Straps & Buckle:
Metal bracelets :
bi-color bracelet Ref.: 27.86.2170.4650
metal bracelet : Ref.: 27.02.2170.4650
Stainless steel triple folding buckle
Alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining or 18-carat rose gold bracelet :
brown alligator leather Ref.: 27.00.2016.713
18-carat rose gold pin buckle Ref.: 27.18.0016.002
18-carat rose gold bracelet Ref.: 27.17.2170.4650
.


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## Rickr23

Why not just call it Espada and leave it at that? Doesn't the whole El Primero label make the 36kvph label unnecessary? In any case, to further diffentiate it from other brands and to give it a certain Zenith touch, I would have put the date at 4:30 and paint the date wheel the same color as the dial.


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## v76

There are some photos and videos taken by Ernie and JohnF from day three of their Baselworld visit when they were at the Zenith booth ... check out day 3 of the Baselworld updates on the forum.


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## LouS

Rickr23 said:


> Why not just call it Espada and leave it at that? Doesn't the whole El Primero label make the 36kvph label unnecessary? In any case, to further diffentiate it from other brands and to give it a certain Zenith touch, I would have put the date at 4:30 and paint the date wheel the same color as the dial.


+1. That sums it up exactly. Rick, you and I have finally reached convergence on design. They said it would never happen!


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## v76

I'm not sure how the date at 4:30 would work for this design (perhaps it would ... maybe also have the crown at that position?). But yes, a similar colored date wheel would have been nice (black for the black dial and perhaps white for white and silver dials). I think a trapezoid-shaped window for the date would have been nice (like in most Zenith vintages). You won't get any argument for me about NOT having the El Primero on that dial :-d


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## 31 Jewels

Wait untill the collectors find out that the Holy Grail "Espada" was made in the 70s. If Zenith is going to use a name thats on "one of its most famous watches" at least use a moon phase. 31


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## Rickr23

All that free design advice Zeniths gets from us and all we get is more overlaps and naming confusion....


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## Hartmut Richter

I am somewhat shocked to hear that the watch is really an El Primero minus chronograph 13''', non hacking, crown functions "reversed") and they managed to reduce the thickness by less than a millimetre!! At that rate, I wonder why they bothered - just increase the size of the Elite, knock it up to 5Hz and you get a slimmer watch with the same features. Or is the El Primero so much more accurate and rugged than the Elite?!

Hartmut Richter


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## Rickr23

Good point, that should have been the road of choice, that way there is no confusion as to the future of the Elite. Not to mention, now we can only expect a proliferation of these non-chrono "El Primeros" that is going to put the status of the Elite in question. At the end of the day, it must have been a beancounter's decision- cheaper to de-chrono an EP than to rework the Elite.


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## sempervivens

I see a lot of two-tone watches and gold and a lot of brown but only one normal steel watch. That is nice. I like the pure steel one. (The gold one with the brown dial is also ok).

I don't care so much about the label and I'm inclined to see the "El Primero Espada 36000 bph"-signature and movement as a new original creation which was made with respect for the past.

The movement is based on the same caliber that Zenith made in 1969, known as the El Primero, so they can use the El Primero name. It has 36000 bph and it is not against Zenith tradition to mention the frequency on the dial: they did the same when 28800 was new in 1971-72. Without the "_vph_", that is true.
And the Espada name has already been used frequently by Zenith. The combination is new so that differentiates it from anything else we have already seen. It is completely based on their past and yet completely new. It is brilliant. A 30 mm automatic. Wasn't that what you also wanted Hartmut?

Come to think of it, it is exciting that they have this new wristwatch movement, based on the El Primero, without the chronograph, but still at 36000 bph. That is a novelty in the watchworld, I don't know any other current wristwatch movements with 36000. I think it can be a success, if the movement performs well.


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## Hartmut Richter

Well, Audemars Piguet have one going at 43200 A/h (6Hz) and Breguet have a chronograph (!!) at 72000 A/h (10Hz)! The latter with a silicon escapement, otherwise I suspect they wouldn't have made it up that far.....

I am sure that, once you get the machinery for it, increasing the size of the Elite to 13''' and increasing the beat rate to 5Hz is a doddle. What I am really looking for, in view of the ever increasing sizes of these things is a 16''' automatic wrist watch movement! ETA did it with their Valgranges series (Cal. A07.111 - 16.5''' for that one!).

Hartmut Richter


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## v76

Hartmut, Chopard LUC have a new 8Hz (57,600 A/h) out this Baselworld ... they seem to be one company doing a lot on the movement front almost every year.



Hartmut Richter said:


> Well, Audemars Piguet have one going at 43200 A/h (6Hz) and Breguet have a chronograph (!!) at 72000 A/h (10Hz)! The latter with a silicon escapement, otherwise I suspect they wouldn't have made it up that far.....
> 
> I am sure that, once you get the machinery for it, increasing the size of the Elite to 13''' and increasing the beat rate to 5Hz is a doddle. What I am really looking for, in view of the ever increasing sizes of these things is a 16''' automatic wrist watch movement! ETA did it with their Valgranges series (Cal. A07.111 - 16.5''' for that one!).
> 
> Hartmut Richter


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## Rickr23

I don't understand the reluctance to create larger movements. They know very well how they themselves keep increasing the size of watches. Aside from that Valgranges movements, who has a movement to match the size of the watch? I can't find any info on the size of Breitling's 01 movements, but it too seems tiny in their 44mm watch. Other than covering watches in diamonds and increasing case diameters, the Swiss watch industry doesn't seem to be interested in anything, unless it brings in the easy money. They are so lucky that there is no serious competition from anywhere and that customers aren't picky about that sort of thing.


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## Hartmut Richter

The Breitling Cal. B01 is ca. 13''' (30mm) - just like the Zenith El Primero. I suspect that the companies are reluctant to invest in new machinery for larger movements, at least as long as they can get away with putting small movements into large cases! ;-)

Hartmut Richter


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## v76

I wonder if most companies are hedging their bets on watch sizes getting back to what they were in the '90s (not exactly vintage sizes, but close enough). It could also be the bean counters and "efficiency experts" putting the kibosh on new movement development.

IWC based some of their recent manual wind and automatic movements on pocket watch calibers to "upsize" their range, I'm sure Zenith and a few others could do that as well, if they wished to.



Hartmut Richter said:


> The Breitling Cal. B01 is ca. 13''' (30mm) - just like the Zenith El Primero. I suspect that the companies are reluctant to invest in new machinery for larger movements, at least as long as they can get away with putting small movements into large cases! ;-)
> 
> Hartmut Richter


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## John Chris

Why bother making larger movements? The existing 13''' movements work perfectly well in any size case. The current/possibly waning fashion for pocket-watch sized wristwatches is based solely on external aesthetics, not internal function, so what's the point? Might as well wonder why they don't make gold movements for gold-cased watches (as Gruen once did). Hmmph!


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## Rickr23

Why? Because it limits what they can do aesthetically and forces them to solve things with dubious design choices: Subdial overlaps in the case of Zenith; elsewhere: very small subdials, tiny window dates, functions that look disproportionally crowded and close to the center of the watch. Things don't look any better on the back of the watch when they have transparent casebacks- spacers, huge caseback covers revealing a tiny movement. Aestethics matter an awful lot when it comes to expensive mechanical watches.


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## LouS

Well, rumor has it a larger chronograph movement is in the offing for 2013.


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## Rickr23

Well, I'm not holding my breath. By the way, are we to consider the Espada movement (I refuse to call a de-chronoed EP an EP) as Zenith's movement development of this year? Didn't JFD promise every year some movement novelty.


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## Alpinist

im wondering since its a non chrono el primero. 

Does it hack ?


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## Hartmut Richter

We have already establishedthat it doesn't hack - and that the crown functions are reversed, just like a true El Primero (full out for the date change).

Hartmut Richter


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## 31 Jewels

Rickr23 said:


> Good point, that should have been the road of choice, that way there is no confusion as to the future of the Elite. Not to mention, now we can only expect a proliferation of these non-chrono "El Primeros" that is going to put the status of the Elite in question. At the end of the day, it must have been a beancounter's decision- cheaper to de-chrono an EP than to rework the Elite.


I agree completely. 31


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## jimmer42

Hi all...my first post on here so forgive my lack of detailed knowledge of the brand. I have 3 Omegas and usually hang out over there. I am surprised that there seems to be no love for the new Espada. Is it because of the El primero naming convention or something else.

The reason I ask is because I am looking for a semi dressy, yet sporty watch which can be an everyday wearer with a combination of modern style and traditional styling elements. I was looking at an Omega Aqua terra or JLC Master control....Then I saw the Espada....Beautiful looks, good size, superb brand history and quality with the El Primero (albeit altered) movement.

I absolutely love the look of this watch and this has jumped to the top of my list....but the luke warm reception it gets on here has me thinking...am I missing something?

Thanks all


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## Veritas99

jimmer42 said:


> Hi all...my first post on here so forgive my lack of detailed knowledge of the brand. I have 3 Omegas and usually hang out over there. I am surprised that there seems to be no love for the new Espada. Is it because of the El primero naming convention or something else.
> 
> The reason I ask is because I am looking for a semi dressy, yet sporty watch which can be an everyday wearer with a combination of modern style and traditional styling elements. I was looking at an Omega Aqua terra or JLC Master control....Then I saw the Espada....Beautiful looks, good size, superb brand history and quality with the El Primero (albeit altered) movement.
> 
> I absolutely love the look of this watch and this has jumped to the top of my list....but the luke warm reception it gets on here has me thinking...am I missing something?
> 
> Thanks all


Welcome to the Zenith forum. Don't be put off by our grumbling if you like the watch. Based on the other two watches you mentioned, I think the Espada is a great option to throw into the mix. Frankly, I really like the styling for the reasons you said - it can be dressy, but it's still casual enough for everyday wear. The concern from many members (myself included) is how the company is handling its most iconic movement. I don't think those complaints takeaway from the quality or style of the watch, but for the collectors and unofficial historians of the brand, it's odd to take "the first" automatic chronograph and simply use that name for a non-chronograph.

Good luck on your choice, and be sure to post some photos of whatever you end up with!

Mike


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## Karolewskiej

I will bring that old thread - to the top.

Anyone has bought one of these?


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## malarky_hk

I was at the AD a month ago and tried it on. I was underwhelmed. It was a nice looking watch but not a stunner. In that price range, there are other El Primeros I would be considering - ones with a chrono function.


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## Karolewskiej

I am still thinking about Striking but in 38mm.


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## Devil00

It's kinda of a understated dress watching ...very nicely done!


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## Hartmut Richter

I would consider it more of a sports watch that is also dressy enough for a suit (but not evening dress IMO). If only they made more Zeniths waterproof..... :-(

Hartmut Richter


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## 31 Jewels

This is where its at. The original crown jewel, and the one in the history book for horological master pieces. 
It can be worn with anything, at any time. 31


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## Devil00

Perhaps a very understated sport dress style ? Pretty nice feel on the wrist... What be the ideal price for this beauty?


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## LouS

Devil00 said:


> What be the ideal price for this beauty?


Ideal? Free!:-!


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## WTSP

The new Espadas are attractive. Their understated designs have a certain strength to them. Modern and classical at once. On the other hand, if Nataf had brought out a watch that misappropriated the name of a past model and eliminated the chronograph functions from the El Primero the members of this forum wouldn't have held back railing in disapproval. People seem to be holding back a little despite the strangeness of this line.

The problem seems to me that the slim and refined Elite occupies a certain space which doesn't quite fit with the fashion for larger watches and movements. Using the chronographless El Primero is a bit of a gamble to fill this space. I like that the 25XX is being re-released. I feel that it holds more promise and legitimacy than this new EP.

Just my two cents...


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## hanz079

I tried on this watch at an AD over at Taipei and I must say it is a nice watch.
Pricing is a bit off but if for the right price, I would definitely add one in my rotation.
but i do understand where the negativity comes from, the revival of the espada name in a 3 handed watch and also without a chrono function but labelled an ep? Bound to rub someone the wrong way especially purists.


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## Yitbos76

can anyone attest as to whether the bracelet has any microadjustments or available half links? i have heard that it does not, which seems like a bit of an oversight....


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## ADillon

It doesn't hack. The reitteration, the synopsis did hack. I have this watch and I love it. love the thickness too. I appreciate a little beefiness and heft to a sports watch. Do with it hacked


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