# SBGN009 Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 50th Anniversary of the first quartz watch LE



## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

Here I present my new favorite Grand Seiko the SBGN009, a quartz GMT featuring the new for 2018 9F86 movement and a special dial depicting a "quartz mark pattern embellished with a crystal". This watch is all things to all men. It is sporty and dressy; functionally useful and wrist candy; delicate and durable; rare and backed by a manufacturing giant. As soon as I saw the typically lackluster press release photos I knew this watch would be mine. I did not, however, expect it to be so beautiful and wearable. It's a nigh perfect watch with a mercurial dial.
















We know all about GS quartz, why it is special, how it is watchmaker made, assembled, and regulated. Well, this watch celebrates the Seiko Astron, the first quartz wristwatch released in 1969. That watch almost buried the Swiss, French, English, and American watch industries. This watch pays a worthy tribute.









This a wearable 40 mm that feels like a 37 mm on the wrist. The bezel, all of high polish, is deceptively wide such that the dial is smaller than the 40 mm size would suggest. The height of 12.2 mm is well hidden by a narrow case band and the wide sloping bezel. The crown sits almost unperceptively recessed some into the case flank protected without overt shear guards. The crystal is subtly domed barely rising higher than the bezel. The bracelet is substantial yet supple hugging the wrist securely. This watch, despite a dense heft really disappears on the wrist, that is, until you want to notice it. When you take a moment to look or are ensnared by a flash off the polished surface or the inner glow of the dial you become mesmerized. 






























The dial goes from an electric blue to a dark midnight blue depending on the ambient light. The quartz design logo on the dial is really very much more noticeable in photographs than to the eye. When one does notice the logo on the lush blue background the experience is one of refined luxury. Somewhat uncharitably the dial design has been compared to something that might be found on dress socks. I think more of the like of Louis Vuitton, that is, a luxury product that references itself as a paradigm of luxury. That this design references quartz watch movement is all the more interesting. Normally, today, quartz is not a sign of luxury let alone high horology. In 1969 quartz was, however, king and once elevated to the level of the 9F it reigns supreme. High horology with sufficient technical acumen to be a timing reference. The perfect dead beat seconds complication.
















The movement is a charmer. Super precise timekeeping, nice finishing, and loaded with refined tech. Watching the date change instantly and knowing there is one uber skilled watchmaker responsible for this, is a thing of wonder. It is, however, a little jarring to witness the seconds hand stutter when advancing the independently settable hour hand. Time keeping is unaffected but to be frank it's a less than lux experience. The proportional, hyper polished main hands contrast nicely with the frosted gold 24-hour hand and the bright gold seconds hand. There is just enough gold tone on the watch to serve as the antipode to the sizzling blue dial. The observant will note that the center dial is ringed by what appears to be a different material sporting the minutes track and the applied markers. This appears to be a complicated dial construction and I believe that the fluted indices (this is a dark dial GS so it gets fluted indicies) cantilever over the center dial.









Visually, there is greater emphasis placed on the 24-hour hand, which is not all the way useful, but one gets accustomed to reading local time at a glance. Low light visibility is outstanding as it always is with GS handsets, yet, one does wonder if somehow lume could have been applied without making the watch too sporty. Perhaps a gentleman need not know the time in the pitch darkness and anyway he would have a GS diver for that. In the end this watch looks and feels special. There were only 2019 produced. That is a lot compared to some GS limited editions, but this watch is one of those landmarks in the lineup. This has it all and then some. Perhaps this is the quartz snowflake in that it is so right, so harmonious, it transcends itself becoming an icon of itself and the quartz lineup. I suggest you pick one up while you still can.


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## Jostack (Jul 1, 2018)

Great write up.

I saw this one at an AD last weekend and was surprised how understated the quartz symbols appear in person compared to many pics you see online. Lighting changes the appearance pretty dramatically.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mr.Jones82 (Jul 15, 2018)

Nice review. I have been talking about getting one of the GMTs for quite a while now, and I think I like this one the most. Is it the same case as the sbgv223/225/221? The thick bezel and case look the same as those models.


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

Mr.Jones82 said:


> Nice review. I have been talking about getting one of the GMTs for quite a while now, and I think I like this one the most. Is it the same case as the sbgv223/225/221? The thick bezel and case look the same as those models.


As far as I know it is the same case. My other quartz models have different case styles than the models you mentioned.


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## iddaka (Apr 5, 2019)

Great shots!! Love the royal look of blue and gold. Wear it well.

I got a message from my AD that the 241 has also come in. Going this weekend to make a decision between this and the LE 241. The odds are favoring this for sure


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

iddaka said:


> Great shots!! Love the royal look of blue and gold. Wear it well.
> 
> I got a message from my AD that the 241 has also come in. Going this weekend to make a decision between this and the LE 241. The odds are favoring this for sure


SBGT241? Day/date, +/- 5 spy, beads bracelet. That's pretty hot too. Update us.


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## Nokie (Jul 4, 2011)

Excellent pictures to capture that beautiful blue dial.

Very nice. Enjoy.


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## berni29 (Sep 8, 2007)

Hi there

I popped into my local Seiko Boutique here in HK expecting to see the SBGN009 but they have not arrived yet 

So here is a picture of it's very close brother the SBGN007.










Just to answer the question about the case vs the SBGV225, it does look different to my eyes. I no longer have my 225, but here is a couple of pictures.



















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

berni29 said:


> Hi there
> 
> I popped into my local Seiko Boutique here in HK expecting to see the SBGN009 but they have not arrived yet
> 
> ...


Thanks for the pics, I've tried on the 007 and it's great too. Yes, it seems the case is different. Probably mostly because the GMT movement is thicker.


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## T1meout (Sep 27, 2013)

I find the all brushed bracelet extra appealing. It gives it a sporty look.


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## Vfp123 (Jul 16, 2019)

Jandrese - I just picked one up myself today. I couldn’t not agree more with your excellent review. This one is a keeper! 

From the finishing to the dial, it is exquisite.


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## Vfp123 (Jul 16, 2019)

Jandrese - There was a typo in my above post. I just picked one up myself today. I couldn’t agree more with your excellent review. This one is a keeper! 

From the finishing to the dial, it is exquisite.


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

Vfp123 said:


> Jandrese - There was a typo in my above post. I just picked one up myself today. I couldn't agree more with your excellent review. This one is a keeper!
> 
> From the finishing to the dial, it is exquisite.


Rock on! Congrats.


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## Chingoo (Feb 4, 2019)

jandrese said:


> Vfp123 said:
> 
> 
> > Jandrese - There was a typo in my above post. I just picked one up myself today. I couldn't agree more with your excellent review. This one is a keeper!
> ...


If you have any shots of your new watch on leather..curious how it looks.


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

Chingoo said:


> If you have any shots of your new watch on leather..curious how it looks.


Mine will never see leather, for the most part I'm a bracelet guy. Otherwise, I would share for sure.


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## Zyklon (Jan 28, 2015)

how much does the bracelet tappers? 18mm near the clasp?


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

Zyklon said:


> how much does the bracelet tappers? 18mm near the clasp?


Very little if at all. Most GS bracelets, with my quartz diver being an exception, don't really taper.


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## koolpep (Jul 14, 2008)

Zyklon said:


> how much does the bracelet tappers? 18mm near the clasp?


SBGN009 bracelet tapers from nearly 20mm to 18mm at the clasp.

Cheers!


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## yokied (Jan 7, 2017)

jandrese said:


> Here I present my new favorite Grand Seiko the SBGN009, a quartz GMT featuring the new for 2018 9F86 movement and a special dial depicting a "quartz mark pattern embellished with a crystal". This watch is all things to all men ... As soon as I saw the typically lackluster press release photos I knew this watch would be mine ... Somewhat uncharitably the dial design has been compared to something that might be found on dress socks. I think more of the like of Louis Vuitton, that is, a luxury product that references itself as a paradigm of luxury ... Perhaps a gentleman need not know the time in the pitch darkness and anyway he would have a GS diver for that ... Perhaps this is the quartz snowflake in that it is so right, so harmonious, it transcends itself becoming an icon of itself and the quartz lineup.


Outstanding review OP. Quoted were the highlights for me. Reviewing is a dying art and yours, like so many GS sports watches themselves, strikes a good balance of including enough but remaining relatively succinct and entertaining. I must admit that after reading "this watch is all things to all men" I went straight to watchrecon to see if you had listed it. It's an unfortunate phenomenon that I have encountered all too often with lyrical reviewers...

So my only question is are still socking it to 'em at +/- 10s per annum and loving it? It's eminently reasonably priced too...


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## koolpep (Jul 14, 2008)

I bought mine two days ago, my dealer had sold another one just a day before. Seems like supply is getting tighter. I have a 18XX number of 2019 and the AD told me he is unsure if he gets more supply of this model. 

My advice, if you are on the fence with this one, get it now.


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

yokied said:


> Outstanding review OP. Quoted were the highlights for me. Reviewing is a dying art and yours, like so many GS sports watches themselves, strikes a good balance of including enough but remaining relatively succinct and entertaining. I must admit that after reading "this watch is all things to all men" I went straight to watchrecon to see if you had listed it. It's an unfortunate phenomenon that I have encountered all too often with lyrical reviewers...
> 
> So my only question is are still socking it to 'em at +/- 10s per annum and loving it? It's eminently reasonably priced too...


I still have it a love on it. Wore it just last week. I've sold a gang of watches but I'm not a flipper. Grand Seiko only enter my house, they never leave. This model is a standout in my collection.


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## brash47 (Jul 14, 2018)

Got mine this week. Your review was the final push. Thanks for all of that information not available anywhere else.

I have totally fallen in love with GS, a brand I knew nothing about a little over a year ago. I have 2 now. Both quartz.

Thanks again for this great review. Here's some gratuitous eye candy for folks.....NSFW...naked 9f strip tease for ya!!









Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk


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## Chingoo (Feb 4, 2019)

Still waiting for someone to put this on leather..not a single pic on the net yet.


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

brash47 said:


> Got mine this week. Your review was the final push. Thanks for all of that information not available anywhere else.
> 
> I have totally fallen in love with GS, a brand I knew nothing about a little over a year ago. I have 2 now. Both quartz.
> 
> ...


Congrats on getting a great watch, a future classic. I just ordered my 10th (?) GS and my wife has 2. They are so good they are hard to resist!


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## koolpep (Jul 14, 2008)

Chingoo said:


> Still waiting for someone to put this on leather..not a single pic on the net yet.


Give me a week with mine and it's on a strap eventually.


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## brash47 (Jul 14, 2018)

I'll bite, let me see what I have in stock in that size and I'll throw a few on. Probably Barton's at the moment and probably black...

Might have a brown alligator. 

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk


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## CLMacPherson (Aug 10, 2018)

Beautiful piece! Gotta love that dial


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## westcoastco (Apr 10, 2016)

koolpep said:


> I bought mine two days ago, my dealer had sold another one just a day before. Seems like supply is getting tighter. I have a 18XX number of 2019 and the AD told me he is unsure if he gets more supply of this model.
> 
> My advice, if you are on the fence with this one, get it now.


+1

I have one which is currently my daily watch for work. It is in my opinion the best looking and most versatile of the present 9F quartz GMTs. The gold hands on the rich dark blue dial look amazing. For me the bracelet is so comfortable that I don't see myself ever putting it on a strap.


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## koolpep (Jul 14, 2008)

westcoastco said:


> +1
> 
> I have one which is currently my daily watch for work. It is in my opinion the best looking and most versatile of the present 9F quartz GMTs. The gold hands on the rich dark blue dial look amazing. For me the bracelet is so comfortable that I don't see myself ever putting it on a strap.


I agree with you. I put my SBGA283 and SBGX261 on a strap once and changed back after one day. But I have a feeling that this version would look amazing on a strap, either brown or blue.


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## koolpep (Jul 14, 2008)

Ok - I just received my new springbar tweezer and put it to use.

Please find the SBGN009 on various straps that I had and would match in 20mm:

Canvas Denim Vintage Italian Leather Watch Strap Navy Blue from watchgecko:








Archer Watch Straps Soft-Rubber Naples-Yellow:








Hirsch light brown leather straps with stitching:








Wtachgecko Geckota Vintage Soft Top Grain Leather Watch Strap








Drop.com: Vulture Badalassi leather strap blue:








Bark & Jack BLue Seatbelt Nylon:








Omega (yes, original Omega) Speedmaster 'same as PRESLEY' 20mm CWZ011027 NATO Blue Denim Buckle Strap (denim on top of light brown leather):








So there you have it....

And you know what: I am so excited - I had no idea it would look so good on these straps.... Now - which one should I choose?

Cheers!!


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## Chingoo (Feb 4, 2019)

Thanks for the pictures. Seems like a difficult one to match. Id say stick with leather, brown or black. Maybe croc. I don't think nato or rubber will work here. Too dressy


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

koolpep said:


> Ok - I just received my new springbar tweezer and put it to use.
> 
> Please find the SBGN009 on various straps that I had and would match in 20mm:
> 
> ...


I think it would take a special strap to look better than the bracelet. Don't think any of those are it. They don't match the pizzaz of the dial.


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## koolpep (Jul 14, 2008)

jandrese said:


> I think it would take a special strap to look better than the bracelet. Don't think any of those are it. They don't match the pizzaz of the dial.


Ah well that's a matter of taste IMHO - the bracelet is the standard GS bracelet - it's rather boring and compared to Omega and Rolex bracelets more on the pedestrian side in looks and function. My options there were a bit casual - no glitter and bling but blue


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## Armstrong31 (Nov 7, 2016)

Hi Jandrese, Great looking watch! I am looking at this, the SBGE211 and the Seiko LX GMT in blue. I am doing a little fence sitting and getting itchy. Are you still enjoying the watch at the 4 month mark?


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

Armstrong31 said:


> Hi Jandrese, Great looking watch! I am looking at this, the SBGE211 and the Seiko LX GMT in blue. I am doing a little fence sitting and getting itchy. Are you still enjoying the watch at the 4 month mark?


For sure. In my opinion it is more special and original than the other two watches you mention, but you really can't go wrong with any GS.


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## Armstrong31 (Nov 7, 2016)

My challenge with the SBGE211 is that I have nothing for the GS five (5) link bracelet and IMO the 211 is not a strap watch. If only it had the 3 link oyster type... My big interest in the SBGE211 is not only Spring Drive. I think the watch epitomizes not only Japanese watch making but also Japanese culture in general. Black lacquer and red (Dial and GMT hand) are the cornerstones of Japanese art and culture. Also the black, and maybe more on the SBGJ203 with the striations of Mt. Iwate give the look of the hair of a beautiful Japanese woman. I am stuck, but leaning 009 bc of size and price.


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## jandrese (May 11, 2009)

Armstrong31 said:


> My challenge with the SBGE211 is that I have nothing for the GS five (5) link bracelet and IMO the 211 is not a strap watch. If only it had the 3 link oyster type... My big interest in the SBGE211 is not only Spring Drive. I think the watch epitomizes not only Japanese watch making but also Japanese culture in general. Black lacquer and red (Dial and GMT hand) are the cornerstones of Japanese art and culture. Also the black, and maybe more on the SBGJ203 with the striations of Mt. Iwate give the look of the hair of a beautiful Japanese woman. I am stuck, but leaning 009 bc of size and price.


I have the SBGJ203 as well. Different beast. Bigger, thicker, and almost spring drive like smoothness to the seconds hand. Same functionality more money. The texture of the 203 only shows in bright light, otherwise it is that mysterious rich black known as nurebairo. The 009 dial pops more and is more flashy overall with the gold accents. I much prefer the 203 case to the 211 but that is me.


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## ark1985 (Aug 1, 2019)

Nice review! Super beautiful photos! But at the same time, i don't want you to post a review because i am saving for this one! :-d


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## SuperDadHK (Nov 3, 2018)

hi all the SBGN009 owners, do you still in love with it after months of ownership?
I am thinking about getting a 9F (SBGN009 or SBGV239) but still can't make up my mind.
do you find the symbol on dial, or the gold tone accent too loud for daily use? especially when wearing shirts and suits?
I am a bit leaning towards the SBGN009 at the moment but worried that it is not versatile enough (also trying to find a good deal )


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## Imagestreet (Apr 19, 2020)

Chingoo said:


> Still waiting for someone to put this on leather..not a single pic on the net yet.


I don't have the SBGN009 but have it's older sister the SBGN007 (identical case shape but green dial ). I didn't like this case on a leather strap as the watch instantly turns more dressy, and wears more like a 38mm due to it's large bezel and short lug to lug length. Unsuitable for NATOs for the same reason. Much prefer it on the bracelet. I think this case shape is the perfect work grab and go, and goes really well with formal or smart-casual wear, but it is not sufficiently sporty or large (on a 6.75 inch wrist) to suit casual weekend wear (e.g. jeans, on the beach, in the forest etc). I therefore only used it for work. I think the SBGN009 is less flexible then the SBGN007 as the blue dial doesn't really match any strap other than a blue one.


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## koolpep (Jul 14, 2008)

Imagestreet said:


> I don't have the SBGN009 but have it's older sister the SBGN007 (identical case shape but green dial ). I didn't like this case on a leather strap as the watch instantly turns more dressy, and wears more like a 38mm due to it's large bezel and short lug to lug length. Unsuitable for NATOs for the same reason. Much prefer it on the bracelet.  I think this case shape is the perfect work grab and go, and goes really well with formal or smart-casual wear, but it is not sufficiently sporty or large (on a 6.75 inch wrist) to suit casual weekend wear (e.g. jeans, on the beach, in the forest etc). I therefore only used it for work. I think the SBGN009 is less flexible then the SBGN007 as the blue dial doesn't really match any strap other than a blue one.
> 
> View attachment 15122313


Blue watches do mix well with some brown straps I think....


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## Imagestreet (Apr 19, 2020)

Fair point, these all look good, although on your SBGN009 shot the intense royal blue/purple sunburst you get in certain lighting conditions on that dial may be too much for the brown to handle - would be interesting to see whether it was still a good match then. Thanks for sharing - nice collection!


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## koolpep (Jul 14, 2008)

Imagestreet said:


> Fair point, these all look good, although on your SBGN009 shot the intense royal blue/purple sunburst you get in certain lighting conditions on that dial may be too much for the brown to handle - would be interesting to see whether it was still a good match then. Thanks for sharing - nice collection!


Unfortunately the H. Moser isn't mine. The others are.

I have the SBGN009 back on the bracelet but will take a few pics with the leather strap once it is back on it.

Cheers!


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