# Sticky  Tissot T-Touch disassembly photos and instructions



## halfapie

I recently got a used (perhaps abused?) T-Touch titanium with lots of scratches. I wanted to remove the scratches, but in the process I decided that a complete teardown would make things easier.

So here it is. A T-Touch disassembled for ALL to see!

*THIS WILL DEFINITELY VOID THE WARRANTY. I do not take ANY responsibility for your actions!* (Although, if you do it very carefully, they'll never know!)

I took the pictures during _assembly_, as I was doing scratch removal. but I'll show them in reverse order to show the _disassembly_. So, um.. it will show the watch going from good condition to worse. :-d

*I'll assume that you've already removed the band*

Sorry, the pictures will start with the final polished product: The final product for me, but the first step for you.


















Remove the back cover. To do this, just insert a knife blade or use your favorite snap-back remover.

Interestingly, the ENTIRE BACK of the module is DIRECTLY EXPOSED to water and any outside elements.










NOTE : :rodekaart DO NOT, for ANY reason, stick ANYTHING into that little circular thing just above the word "swiss". That's the pressure sensor, and it is SUPPOSED to have a gooey substance inside. (It's silicon gel designed to waterproof and protect the sensor)

Set the back cover aside.










There is a mesh screen glued to the inside of the back cover--this probably helps keep the dust away from the watch's sensors.










*Begin Battery change instructions. Skip down to continue disassembly!*

Remove the two tiny screws holding the battery cover, then gentry pry up the cover using a jeweler's screwdriver in the small slot on the 8 O-clock position.










The cover will come out, but it will probably fall apart into 3 separate pieces.

















Here's the battery. It's a CR1632, somewhat odd size but you should be able to buy one somewhere for a dollar. You can pop the battery out by wedging a small screwdriver in the open slot at 3 O'clock.









You reverse the steps to install a new battery, but you have to be careful when u put the cover back on. _*The battery cover is DIRECTLY exposed to water, so the O-Ring seal MUST BE PROPERLY SEATED. Otherwise you'll end up with a dead T-Touch next time you wash your hands!*_

Place a well-oiled oring on the back cover, followed by the metal lid There is a groove/step in the plastic lid designed for the oring.

















Then you can put the assembled battery cover onto the battery and gently tighten the screws. Do NOT over-tighten the screws! (It looks like somebody already messed up the screws on my poor used watch.  )

*END Battery change instructions.*

Okay so you have this: How do you remove the module from the case? Is it even safe?? -- Yes it is!









But before you start pulling at it, take a closer look! There is a large screw-down ring holding it down!

Turn it with a jaxa-type case opener, and set the ring aside.


















The module will probably stay put despite your efforts to claw at it. There are TWO tiny holes on either side of the module to help you remove the module from the case. One of those are shown here:










Insert your bracelet sizing pin tool (or maybe a paper clip could work?) and use gentle force to pull the module up. A lever action worked well for me. The resistance is coming from an o-ring. If it does not budge, check to make sure you removed the metal ring! 

Once the module is removed, a large oring will probably fall out with it.










*NOTE: *When re-assembling, make sure you place the o-ring like the picture below and insert the module into the case. The module will "float" a little bit and it won't slide all the way back into the case properly. Don't worry about it, and give it a gentle push. You'll feel the O-ring expand and slide into its proper groove. Once the O-ring is secure, you can pick up that metal screwdown ring and secure the module.










AND, there you have it, the naked module, outside of the case.










And here is the empty case. Notice a notch drilled out at the 3 O'clock (9 O'clock from the watch's front) . This notch needs to line up with the slight bulge in the module's brown plastic. Compare the pics of the case & module if confused. 


















The three buttons are mounted in a cylinder with internal springs. They appear to use a novel way of staying put--something like a tapered screw assembled directly into the plunger.

The touch sensor is mounted on the sapphire crystal--I am not sure if this can be replaced. I do know for sure that it cannot be replaced with a generic crystal, and that a replacement crystal must be aligned perfectly.

WHY?

If you look at the module, you'll see two thin curved strips from 8:40 to 11:30. These "zebra" strips carry the electrical signals from the crystal's touch sensors to the module. Therefore, any misalignment of the crystal, or any dirt trapped on those zebra strips, will cause a touch-sensor malfunction.

The bezel is also removable. This requires brute force, so I don't recommend that anyone do it. There is a good chance you will damage the underlying clicking mechanism trying to remove the bezel.


























If you are feeling adventurous, You COULD go further and disassemble the module. To do that, you have to remove the hands and dial. I didn't want to leave any smuges anywhere so I stopped here. If somebody donated a T-Touch I'd be glad to complete a REAL teardown all the way to its circuitboard. :-d

Some notes on removing scratches on this titanium polish:

On the back cover, I started with the stock factory finish. 









But I wanted to give it a uniform brushed look, and remove some of the scratches.

So, I put some scotch tape on the back and cut out the hole:









And used scotch-brite (the maroon colored one) and removed most of the scratches.

Then I put some scotch tape on the back and this time left the center covered--and then I rubbed the outer ring with my scotch-brite.









I like the final look.  I know it's not that pretty, but I'm going to use this watch as my "beater" anyway.









The end! :-!

YES, THE WATCH IS 100% FUNCTIONAL AFTER GOING THROUGH THIS PROCEDURE.









But I haven't decided if i want to put it back on its stock orange rubber band, or get some fancy orange color schemed band somewhere else... It will NOT fit a nato band properly because of the way the case is shaped, but it looks like it will fit any standard 20mm band. Maybe I can find a nice waterproof black leather band with orange stitching. How cool!


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## Woaloo

Really nice tutorial !!!!
Thanks a thousand lot, man !!!


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## seanpiper

Very interesting! Thanks for taking the time to walk us through it.

Was that the battery you put in, or the existing one that came with it?

Also of note, the new Expert models have done away with the mesh barrier and now have a steel plate to cover the movement. The sensor is soldered up through the middle.


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## halfapie

seanpiper said:


> Very interesting! Thanks for taking the time to walk us through it.
> 
> Was that the battery you put in, or the existing one that came with it?
> 
> Also of note, the new Expert models have done away with the mesh barrier and now have a steel plate to cover the movement. The sensor is soldered up through the middle.


It was the existing battery, I just put it right back in. When buying new batteries, I like Renata batteries myself.

I'd love to see how the expert model is different from the old regular T-Touch. Alas, I don't have the $$$ to buy a T-Touch expert! :-(


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## sethenosh

Thanks for this walk-through. One question if I may, how hard was it to press the titanium back cover on to the case, and did you use a case press?


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## BBJWatchMan

halfapie said:


> I haven't decided if i want to put it back on its stock orange rubber band, or get some fancy orange back somewhere else... It will NOT fit a nato band properly because of the way the case is shaped, but it looks like it will fit any standard 20mm band. Maybe I can find an black diver's leather band with orange stitching. How cool!


Yeah, I have run into a few issues with trying to fit alternative bands/straps from even the same model line onto other watches for customers. The way the lugs are designed, along with the curve of the case makes for an interesting go of it. If you find something else that works, post up some pics! :-!


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## seanpiper

halfapie said:


> It was the existing battery, I just put it right back in. When buying new batteries, I like Renata batteries myself.
> 
> I'd love to see how the expert model is different from the old regular T-Touch. Alas, I don't have the $$$ to buy a T-Touch expert! :-(


Then I'm afraid you're not the first to peer inside to see whats going on. The cheap japanese battery is the first giveaway that an un-authorised repair agent has opened the watch.

Stick with Renata!! :-!


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## halfapie

sethenosh said:


> Thanks for this walk-through. One question if I may, how hard was it to press the titanium back cover on to the case, and did you use a case press?


The caseback snapped in very easily with my hands. And I have really weak hands! It's almost a "click" instead of a "pop." You definitely won't need a case press.

Also, it is very easy to pop open the case. I just used the knife on my leatherman, which doesn't open most of my watches. The back cover isn't watertight (the watertight seal is somewhere else), so I think Tissot made it "loose" on purpose.


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## undocumented

Thanks and wow, that is a great resource for owners out there.

You are a gutsy man my friend, beater or not I would not have be able to summon the courage to do it....but now that I have this I might!!


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## nathantw666

Thank you! That'll save me more than $250 and a month wait the next time I need a battery change.


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## halfapie

wow Tissot charges $250 for a battery change?

They MUST be doing something else for that price. maybe replacing the orings, testing water tightness, etc?


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## leewmeister

Thanks. Added to the sticky list.


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## halfapie

leewmeister said:


> Thanks. Added to the sticky list.


woohoo! another sticky for me! :-!

:thanks


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## Woaloo

Could you explain how do you removed the band ?
Is it classic attach ? there are two little holes on the each side of the watch.
Thank you very much.


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## halfapie

Yeah you have to take a pin remover and push it from one side.

You have to push very hard, I actually tapped it with a hammer to get it going.

I think there might be instructions on tissot's website.



Woaloo said:


> Could you explain how do you removed the band ?
> Is it classic attach ? there are two little holes on the each side of the watch.
> Thank you very much.


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## JET YCOY

NICE JOB MY FRIEND, I GOT ONE ALSO POLISH Ti CARBON FIBER, DON'T HAVE THE GUT'S TO OPEN MINE JUST LIKE THE WAY YOU DID TO YOUR WATCH ..... BRAVO!!!


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## petta_pista

Hi, Can you please show me how to remove the band.


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## aquaman2010

When are we going to get one of the Expert? Do you think they will have similar battery replacement?


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## rgreer

hi, I just acquired my tissot t touch titamium watch off ebay and appears almost new so I probably lucked out, On disassembly I was wondering can you clean the inside of the crystal glass if it needs to be? Also in removing the back cover its only the bottom and not the holes that a knife is applied in and up to pop it. rgreer


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## chronos00

Hello everyone!

I was looking for t-touch disassembly instructions hoping I could repair mine. Many of you probably know of the very common problem the t-touches have, that is the touch screen stop being responsive (at least being correctly responsive). This is the case of my watch, which along the past month it's screen became progressively unresponsive.

Do any of you know how can I repair this screen unresponsiveness? My watch is 4 years old, and it's warranty is over. I cant afford to pay for it's repair, but on the other hand, I have quite a lot of practice in disassembling almost anything for repairs.

If someone could point me in the right direction, I would be VERY grateful.
Thank you in advance!


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## swaziman

Great pics but can you tell me more about the button fixtures? My middle button has come loose and I want to know what it will take to reattach it. Cheers.


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## sonnoio

*Re: Tissot T-Touch disassembly photos and instructions -older t-touch*

Hello all,
I followed the excellent instructions from halfapie. Found traces of water contamination and a dead battery. Hopefully a battery replacement will do. However, I found a difference with the retention of the module to the case because my t-touch is old: there is no large screw down ring in my t-touch but rather it seems that it may be secured by two internal golden fingers each with a securing screw. Has anyone removed the module with this design? I need to get to the pushbuttons because one of them is inactive.
Thank you, sonnio


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## JTWRally

*Re: Tissot T-Touch disassembly photos and instructions -older t-touch*



sonnoio said:


> Hello all,
> I followed the excellent instructions from halfapie. Found traces of water contamination and a dead battery. Hopefully a battery replacement will do. However, I found a difference with the retention of the module to the case because my t-touch is old: there is no large screw down ring in my t-touch but rather it seems that it may be secured by two internal golden fingers each with a securing screw. Has anyone removed the module with this design? I need to get to the pushbuttons because one of them is inactive.
> Thank you, sonnio


Hi sonnoio, I have just removed the type you have just described. just remove the two screws that hold the two brass tabs and then it is the same as described in this forum. Word of warning tho... I removed the module to clean around the buttons etc after having probs with them working correctly... I cleaned it successfully but when refitting the module into the case, caught one of the contacts on the button and it snapped the contact from the module. therefore that button no longer works. Take great care refitting it.... perhaps line up the button side first then push other end down. The case back on mine was very tight to refit also.......

perhaps an expert watch repairer could tell me if that snapped contact could be repaired by Tissot or is it likely to need a new module ?


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## k10k10

HI all I am new to the site, here out of necessity!! Bought my touch Titanium in 2007 from Jamaica throught a reputable dealer...

worked fine up until last week, before the total failure it was not getting the temperature right was displaying way lower temps than were actual. The only thing I did before this failure was on a beach at see level and rest the see level to 0, after this problems started. So I rest the see level to what it was before but temp was still wrong. Figured the battery was running low so planned to change it when I got back to Canada from India. Took it off like I do every night before bed and woke the next to find screen blank and hands frozen at time of death. Went to an official Tissot dealer here in India to change the battery he openned it change the battery still no life! He checked the new battery with a volt meter and my old one which was fine. Said would have to take it to adn repair shop about an 1hr and a half from here, so I will wait till I am safely back home in Canada.

Has anyone had this kind of problem or know of anyone who has? Who else should I contanct about this to get some more advise? 

Thanks for your help guys and help me to not make this watch an expensive paper weight!

K10


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## bilbuz

Can anyone lead me to where I can purchase a replacement T touch module possible online and in the USA or Canada? Mine has given up after 3-4 years of good service and replacing the battery did not do anything.
I would happily donate the guts to halfapie for additional "reverse engineering" pictures. 
Thanks for any help that you can offer. 
bilbuz


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## k10k10

I suppose you had the same problem as I, eh bilbuz? Guess we both need an answer to our questions.


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## lizardsnoop

hi does anyone know the precise size of screwdriver to remove the battery cover please. so i can purchase one before i take the back off my watch as i have been quoted £80 about 127$ too change two batterys and reset the computer after they have been replaced.
lizardsnoop


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## ninjamedic

Thanks will do this with my T-Touch, will save me a bomb


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## mcat0

A sincere thank you. I took my Tissot T-Touch watch to the Swatch repair center in Toronto for what I thought was a simple battery replacement. Their technician declared the watch unrepairable. For $500+ and my watch I was offered a new one. With nothing to lose, I bought a package of 1632 batteries and followed your detailed instructions carefully. The watch fired up and runs perfectly. I have registered a complaint with the Swatch Group and have asked for an explanation. I have no idea what sort of an operation they're running but they have certainly lost my trust.


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## Lemper

Great pics and instructions. Thanks OP!


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## azimuth_pl

Hello, a very good write up on the T-Touch.
There are some slight design differences between the models but the principles are the same.
I was always intrigued by the touch crystal so here you have a close-up picture showing the electrodes.
The round touch points are connected with the edge at 10-11 o'clock and then via the zebra-connectors on the module/movement.
It is most likely that the electrodes are applied on the bottom side and are heat sensitive what activates the functions upon using a finger.
However I would also believe that the electrodes are applied on top of the crystal and thus you close the circuit with your finger/body.
If the crystal stops being responsive to touch then the electrodes are either worn out (unlikely but possible if applied on top) or what is rather more likely and easy to fix...the connection between the crystal and zebra connectors is broken or dirty. Naturally it might be a fault in the circuitry of the module as well.
Please share your comments and experiences in reference to the crystal electrodes.

View attachment 979486


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## azimuth_pl

Very relevant for this sticky thread...
I have made a technical review of the Tissot T-Touch supported with loads of macro pictures.
Click the link below:
TISSOT T-TOUCH MULTIFUNCTION SMART WATCH 1999


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## sasebt

Hi,

I have a T-Touch titanium... it worked perfectly ok since last summer, when the battery went dead. I used to swim with it, take shower, wash hands, anything you do in normal life. and, it was pretty cool to see the water temperature while swimming in the sea.

Then, I took it to the local watchman to replace the battery. he did, and everything was ok. until, I washed my hands... after that, it dropped dead again... I took it again to the repairman, he said, water went in on the battery, and replaced it once more. now it works ok, but it sucks when I wash my hands, I have to be extra careful not to get it wet.

are there any pointers on what needs to be done to improve the seals? I watched him while he replaced the battery, he did not put any lubricants on the battery cover, so Im guessing that needs to be done.

anything else that needs to be sealed?

oh, and the back cover mesh was all dirty, he did not wanted to clean it so he wont destroy it or something.

Thanks


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## Captaincarlos

Love the t touch, but I should have read your. Tutorial. I self serviced my trekker and ended up breaking the battery cover.....do you know where I can get a replacement? I'm just concerned about the integrity of the water tight resistance if the watch is submerged. Thanks.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Captaincarlos

azimuth_pl said:


> Very relevant for this sticky thread...
> I have made a technical review of the Tissot T-Touch supported with loads of macro pictures.
> Click the link below:
> TISSOT T-TOUCH MULTIFUNCTION SMART WATCH 1999
> 
> View attachment 1300161


Extensive service of the T-touch! is there a part number for the mesh screen inside the case back or one you can ship? I cannot identify that part. Thanks

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_BNSp-zcYpXc/SdwSeAlupsI/AAAAAAAAAeg/HtZa1i1KQP4/s800/DSC_6186.JPG


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## halfapie

I love that this thread continues to help people and draw interest. Alas I have sold my t-touch since this post was written and I don't have any further information about parts and part numbers. But hopefully someone else will chime in with some info. Thanks!


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## Captaincarlos

http://www.spectrumlabs.com/filtration/SpectraMesh.html
Looks like I found a material that would be a sufficient substitute for a debris filtration mesh In the case back of the T-Touch I'm not sure why Tissot didn't opt for a water tight case in the first place.
Now I just have to figure out what the difference between NYLON, POLYESTER, and POLYPROPYLENE is.


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## halfapie

Captaincarlos said:


> I'm not sure why Tissot didn't opt for a water tight case in the first place.


I believe the alti-barometer would not function otherwise.


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## Captaincarlos

oh, I never considered that.


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## The Guvnah

Captaincarlos said:


> Spectra Mesh choice of 5 Mesh materials at Spectrum Labs
> Looks like I found a material that would be a sufficient substitute for a debris filtration mesh In the case back of the T-Touch I'm not sure why Tissot didn't opt for a water tight case in the first place.
> Now I just have to figure out what the difference between NYLON, POLYESTER, and POLYPROPYLENE is.


I'm thinking that it derives its 'waterproofness' by relying on the principle that the surface tension of the water droplets on the super-fine marix of that mesh prevent ingress through it but still allow atmospheric pressure to impinge on the sensor. If that mesh gets clogged however it then turns into a kind of blotting paper which will then wick the water through itself into the innards.

ONE BIG QUESTION THOUGH - how do you remove the pushers on these?


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## tman69

Does anybody know how to actually remove the buttons? i got as far as taking the entire movement out but need to replace the buttons as they fell off the outside. I have replacement buttons but the old stems are in really tight...

Thanks in advance...


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## levisottomaior

Hi Folks. Could anyone help me out where to find a dealer that sells the whole unit with pressure sensor for tissot sea touch? I left mine for 1 year with salty water over it and now it is dead.
Thanks in advance.


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## Martin1234

Many thanks for this info. My t-touch went haywired without a low battery warning. Upon a synchro, it would go back to just anything. Hit a touch function, and it became even more weird. I got the back panel off, and should have taken a picture. One large brown mess. This is my daily watch, I've kept it on while working around the house (like drilling in concrete), probably a big mistake. 
For info it's old. I think I got it in 2005? then on a repair in 2007 It was without reason exchanged for a brandnew one. And i just found out the steel bracelet issued with the original one does not fit the new one. I've been using the 'rubber' one to-date 

New battery sorted it. In hindsight the lower volume of alarms and beeps is an indicator the battery is down

Did find out that cheapo small screwdrivers are no good. I had to sharpen a 1.4mm blade one to fit the screw. That was not much work. These are made out of cheap steel.

popping up the battery cover was the most work. I guess if the seal has not been well lubed before, it sticks


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## watchmeglobal

Hi halfapie. Great job! I also own a T-Touch (Z 251/351-1) and because the battery is empty I decided (after 2 years or so...) to replace it. Thanks for the 'how to'! Strangely enough I found a sort of mesh (and mess...) unther the backplate and a movement with 12 jewels instead of your 0 jewels movement. Strange...


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## ChrisDK

Is it possible to remove the bezel? I think mine is really dirty underneath as it won't move anymore.


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## Deli

ChrisDK said:


> Is it possible to remove the bezel? I think mine is really dirty underneath as it won't move anymore.


Sure.
A knife will do it.

Clean the metal parts (case groove / bezel), but do not brush or clean (even gently) the bezel synthetic parts, since it's very brittle after a couple of years.


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## azimuth_pl

The T-Touch is waterproof without the caseback.
The module has a gasket on the edge and is screwed into the case with a threaded ring.
The battery compartment and sensor also have their own gaskets. If the battery compartment has a bad gasket or is not secured with both screws then water is likely to enter.
The caseback with nylon mesh is only for mechanical protection of the sensor while the mesh filter prevents sand and dust to accumulate on the sticky sealing gel of the sensor.
The mesh can be easily replaced with a decent quality tea bag, the ones not made of paper but with a plastic mesh. It does the job just right 

Pushers are removed like any other by using a button removal tool/vise.
Buttons are secured in their tubes in two ways depending on the model - either with a press-fitted pin or with a screw.
In many cases the screw type will get broken and buttons will get missing when wearing. This was likely a production issue as most watches have a press-fitted pin.


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## Landy

azimuth_pl said:


> Hello, a very good write up on the T-Touch.
> There are some slight design differences between the models but the principles are the same.
> I was always intrigued by the touch crystal so here you have a close-up picture showing the electrodes.
> The round touch points are connected with the edge at 10-11 o'clock and then via the zebra-connectors on the module/movement.
> It is most likely that the electrodes are applied on the bottom side and are heat sensitive what activates the functions upon using a finger.
> However I would also believe that the electrodes are applied on top of the crystal and thus you close the circuit with your finger/body.
> If the crystal stops being responsive to touch then the electrodes are either worn out (unlikely but possible if applied on top) or what is rather more likely and easy to fix...the connection between the crystal and zebra connectors is broken or dirty. Naturally it might be a fault in the circuitry of the module as well.
> Please share your comments and experiences in reference to the crystal electrodes.
> 
> View attachment 979486


Hi all,
I have to say that this is a great thread. 
Which i have used to resolve a few issues with my tissot t touch expert titanium.
However, currently i still have a problem with the crystle. The zebra connector is good and responsive after i took the module out, which allowed me to sync hands and to configure the digital screen to have date on it.

I have cleaned the zebra connector with alcohol (isopropanol) and cleaned the bottom of the crystle with no success. Can you please advise what and how can i fix the connection between the crystle and the zebra connection?

Currently, the crystle works only for the compass option, but the compass itself has some issues, which i don't intend to resolve now. 
But basically when i push the middle button to activate the touch screen, the only option which response is the compass on 6 hour. 
All the other options are not responsive, so it does seems that the connection between the crystle and the zebra connector does work partialy. But i need at least the centre option to move between date and time, and foe the timer and etc.

When clicking on the compass option, i get an empty screen... which i assume saying the the compass is faulty. 
When i click on bottom or top buttons it start to calibrate the compass.

Thus, right now i just want to fix the other touch functionalities, do you know how i can do that?

Awaiting for your response.


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## Deli

If you could get access to the center tactile functions, you'd go into sleep --> test mode. Then you could know if the module is faulty or not.

Remove the bezel.
Check on the glass at 3 o'clock. You should see a barely discernable triangle. Is it well-aligned with the corresponding 3 o'clock notch on the case ?


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## Landy

Deli said:


> If you could get access to the center tactile functions, you'd go into sleep --> test mode. Then you could know if the module is faulty or not.
> 
> Remove the bezel.
> Check on the glass at 3 o'clock. You should see a barely discernable triangle. Is it well-aligned with the corresponding 3 o'clock notch on the case ?


Firstly thank you for your quick response. 
And apologies for my late response.

Unfortunately i don't have access to the center tactical function while the watch is fully assembled. I can do that only when the module is apart and then i assume that the module will display a fault.

Now going to my questions and requests:
1. How and what is the best method of rebooking the bezel without damaging the watch?
Do you have pictures that show how to do it?
I am worried that i will damage or crack the crystle which will damage my sealing and water proof. 
2. Regarding the triangle.... why couldn't i see it from the bottom of the crystle?
My zebra is between 9 and 12 o'clock. 
And the notch is on 12 o'clock if i recall correctly.

Thank you for your support, 
Awaiting for your response.


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## Deli

Landy said:


> Now going to my questions and requests:
> 1. How and what is the best method of rebooking the bezel without damaging the watch?
> Do you have pictures that show how to do it?


I do not have any photographs to show you, sorry.
But with a properly sharpened (not a cutting edge though...) knife, or case opener, it'll be quite easy. It takes 5 seconds to do.

On a T1, I put the edge of the knife at 2 o'clock, after the upper end of the lug, almost on top of the (+) pusher.
Then when the knife "enters" under the bezel, I do *lift up the outer side* (this is important) of the knife. If you lift up the inner (cutting) side of the knife, you'll mar the case and the synthetic parts.

When the bezel is out, most of the time, you'll notice the upper synthetic ring is still onto the case. Remove it WITH GREAT CARE, since it's brittle. Try to work it from 2 o'clock, then go all around the case, it'll fall after a few tries. Do not rush it.

If you do not remove this latter part, you'll have quite a hard time putting the steel bezel onto the case.

On a T2/EXP, I'll do the same, at 2 o'clock, it's easier. BTW never wash or clean the bezel synthetic parts. Change these if needed, or nothing.
On a Solar it can be done, but it takes more time, as you have to do it by steps all around the fixed bezel. Same applies for a RacingT or similar.



Landy said:


> I am worried that i will damage or crack the crystle which will damage my sealing and water proof.


The waterproofness has nothing to do here with the bezel, since there's no gasket involved.
The sapphire crystal is about 3 mm thick (if my memory's right), so you'll need some direct brute force to crack it.



Landy said:


> 2. Regarding the triangle.... why couldn't i see it from the bottom of the crystle?
> My zebra is between 9 and 12 o'clock.
> And the notch is on 12 o'clock if i recall correctly.


The bezel has to be removed to see this triangle.
The notch is at 3 o'clock.


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## Landy

Thank you for your response,

However, i am quite terrified on doing some kind of damage to the watch..... which is partially working. 

but i am exempt keen on making that fix.... and i was looking on the web for more information regarding this triangle or even afew pictures which might explain and show what to do. 

Does any one tried it before?

In addition, whay exactly do i need to do after seeing the triangle? Can i move or adjust it? Is it adhered to the crystle surface?
What are the steps of assembling everything together? 

Appreciate your response,


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## Landy

Dear sir,

I have looked in the beginning of this thread and found a pictures of the crystle without the bezel. 
Can you please advise where is the triangle? I couldn't see it in the picture. 

Secondly, please let me know how and what is the best way to assemble everything after i took everything apart, referring only to the bezel parts. 



Thank toy for your help.


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## Deli

I thought you had a TT Exp or II.
I can't remember if the Ist gen had these triangles, sorry.
But the II/Exp had :









Only remove the sapphire glass IF NEEDED :
= if the black arrow (pointing outside) isn't aligned onto the 3 o'clock mark. +/- 1° is okay though.
BTW, the red arrow pointing towards the glass center should be on the top of the other one. That means the tactile glass is on the good side.

Do not try to remove the glass if its alignment is within tolerances.

Bezel :

On your picture, it seems the upper synthetic ring is still onto the case. Remove it with great caution (it may easily break, since it's brittle), with a knife, going all around 360°. There's 2 dots on it, each at 180°. Check under the bezel, align these, and put the bezel back on the case.


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## Landy

Dear sir,

Thank you for the quick response, i do have tissot t touch expert titanium, but i couldn't find a picture without the bezel. 

Just wonder regarding the red arrow. It needs to be slightly above 3 aclock? Not a special location?

Secondly, if i do need to adjust the crystle, would it eaisly come off?

Appreciate your response.


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## Deli

Hi Landy,



Landy said:


> Just wonder regarding the red arrow. It needs to be slightly above 3 aclock? Not a special location?


Black arrow, +/- 1°, pointing at the 3 o'clock case notch.
The other arrow (pointing towards the center, red arrow in the DRAWING) must then be on top on the other one.



Landy said:


> Secondly, if i do need to adjust the crystle, would it eaisly come off?


Only if you really do ! That's not too often...

Watch in sleep mode, remove the movement. Watch out for the zebras.
Use a glass press, inside out, that's it.
You should always use a new gasket then, but if the older is okay, why not.
Pressing the glass onto the case is a 2 minutes job max.


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## Mikeymike1971

Tissot Z251/351 o-ring size help?Looking for the bottom gasket (o-ring).
i found some on cousins but not sure of the size I.e. 33mm 37mm etc.

can anyone tell me which one to order?
all help appreciated

regards

Mikey​


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## Temujin

Hope this thread is alive  I was gifted a rather old z251/351 model, it was in their drawer for a very long time with no use. I replaced the battery following the instructions from here, and watch worked for two days perfectly. Then one morning it died. Someone in a thread I started about this suggested that the battery short circuited somehow, and suggested I'm missing a piece of adhesive plastic that prevents the battery from shorting out. Can someone please post a photo of where that plastic suppose to be, I do not have it in my movement right now, and it wasn't stuck to the old battery either. Trying to figure out if I can dyi the piece myself.

Help is much appreciated!









Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## halfapie

i'm the OP; my watch (which I no longer own) did not have any protective plastic film inside the battery compartment. it's possible that your battery was just old and on the verge of dying. Button cells do expire. Try a different new battery and see if that works.

There are digital watches that do have such plastic films. In those watches the film is a small circle exactly the diameter of the battery. It is placed between the battery prongs and the circuit-board, and depending on the exact design they sometimes have a hole in them to let the battery prong stick through.


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## Temujin

halfapie said:


> i'm the OP; my watch (which I no longer own) did not have any protective plastic film inside the battery compartment. it's possible that your battery was just old and on the verge of dying. Button cells do expire. Try a different new battery and see if that works.
> 
> There are digital watches that do have such plastic films. In those watches the film is a small circle exactly the diameter of the battery. It is placed between the battery prongs and the circuit-board, and depending on the exact design they sometimes have a hole in them to let the battery prong stick through.


I did manage to fix the watch, by placing a bit of plastic film under the contact. It now works on the same battery it "died" on. Mystery! I'll see if it keeps working, don't know what the plastic film did, but it obviously helped with something

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## Deli

Temujin said:


> (...)don't know what the plastic film did, but it obviously helped with something


The plastic thing is isolating the negative part of the battery cell from the rest of the module, thus avoiding a short circuit.


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## michaelinthesun

I didn't see this before tackling a battery change on my t touch. I was cleaning the back plate with the pressure sensor and thought it was grime over the sensor, so I cleaned it. Dumb move I know. know can I cover the pressure sensor with something (silicone?) before reassembly? Many thanks for any help.


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## m1f5n

Temujin said:


> Hope this thread is alive  I was gifted a rather old z251/351 model, it was in their drawer for a very long time with no use. I replaced the battery following the instructions from here, and watch worked for two days perfectly. Then one morning it died. Someone in a thread I started about this suggested that the battery short circuited somehow, and suggested I'm missing a piece of adhesive plastic that prevents the battery from shorting out. Can someone please post a photo of where that plastic suppose to be, I do not have it in my movement right now, and it wasn't stuck to the old battery either. Trying to figure out if I can dyi the piece myself.
> 
> Help is much appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


I have not noticed the plastic bit under the battery contact until I read this thread. It makes sense to isolate battery from PCB so here is the photo of how I found it.


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