# WUS Feature: Calibre de Cartier Put To The Test



## Robert-Jan Broer (May 2, 2005)

*Calibre de Cartier
*A review by Robert-Jan Broer








*Introduction*
Cartier is probably not the first brand that comes to mind when discussing or just thinking about mechanical timepieces. Although I am not sure whether this statement goes for women as well, I know only few men who have seriously considered owning a Cartier watch.

Although Cartier was the first to create a men's wristwatch in the early 1900s, for most men their focus is probably a bit too much on jewelry and design in general. With the exception of their expensive haute horlogerie line-up by the name of Cartier Paris Collection Privee (CPCP), it seems that Cartier's watches get less credits than they deserve by watch collectors.

Perhaps Cartier felt the same way, or simply thought that it was time to come up with something new for men (since the Santos 100), but during the SIHH in Geneva in 2010, they introduced the Calibre de Cartier.








At the same time, Cartier introduced their new in-house movement caliber 1904-PS MC that belongs to the Calibre de Cartier watches. This is a bi-directional winding movement that measures 25.6mm in diameter and only 4mm in height. It's dimensions, together with the power reserve of 48 hours and amplitude of 28.800 beats per hour (or bph) reminds me of the ETA 2892-A2, which has more or less the same specifications (it is a tad bit thinner though). While I am not implying anything here, it might be the case that Cartier is replacing the ETA 2892-A2 with this caliber 1904-PS MC movement in the next coming years.

*The Calibre de Cartier*
Although I've seen this watch a couple of times during watch shows in the last year, I've never had the chance to try one for a few days. Luckily, a few weeks ago, a brand new Calibre de Cartier came across my path and I was able to give it a spin.








Just like with most other Cartier watches, a lot of effort has been put in the design of the dial of this Calibre de Cartier. The oversized Roman 'XII' and the other Roman numerals on the upper part of the dial keep the stick markers and the large seconds sub dial on the lower part of the dial in perfect balance. The only thing I am not sure of is the large date aperture at 3 o'clock, displaying 3 dates at the same time. We've seen this on pilot watches before, such as IWC's famous Pilot Chronograph ref.3717. However, I personally don't favor this type of date windows on a dress watch.

Furthermore, the outer circle on the dial with the minute markers are again used on the sub dial, which creates a lot of harmony. One of the things that do bother me, besides the large date aperture, is the SWISS MADE wording in the outer ring. It disturbs the pattern too much in my opinion.

The case of the Calibre de Cartier is definitely masculine with its 42mm in diameter, perhaps even more masculine then their Santos 100 model. Fat lugs and a pair of thick crown guards make this watch remind me of the Luminor models by Officine Panerai, without being a copycat.








Looking at the watch from the side, you'll see the use of screws for the crown guards and the strap. On top of the winding crown, you will see a synthetic spinel cabochon that will remind you immediately again you are looking at a Cartier timepiece. Also, from a side angle you'll notice that the domed sapphire crystal is protected by the sleek bezel around it.

The Calibre de Cartier comes in different flavors, but I had obviously had the one with the leather strap. It is a very comfortable thin strap that suits the watch better than the stainless steel bracelet in my opinion, to each his own of course. In this configuration, you can either choose between a black dial and the silver/white dial that is fitted in this particular model. The gold models also have a brown dial as an option.








At the end of the leather alligator strap is a Cartier folding clasp. The clasp is one of the things that didn't impress me at all about this Calibre de Cartier. Although it fits perfectly around my wrist, the way the long end of the strap is attached to it is worrying me. It is simply fold around the buckle and is not safe guarded by a hole and a pin like we are used to. Although this clasp didn't fail on me during the few days I was able to lay my hands on it, the thought it is not secured does not comfort me.








During the introduction I already elaborated about the caliber 1904 PS-MC movement in this Cartier watch, but on the pictures you can see actually how nice it looks. A plain and simple hhmmss and date movement, with a full size rotor finished with Côtes de Genève. The bridge is finished with the same decoration as the rotor and the main plate has been circular grained.

As I've said before in other articles, I am not particularly fond of showing movements that are not THAt special, but I guess there is a certain crowd that likes to glance at the inner workings of their watch once in a while, despite the lack of complications or stunning engraving/skeletonizing work.








All the information you need about this Cartier is engraved in the case back around the sapphire crystal: the material of the watch, the fact that it is water resistant (it doesn't say to what level), produced in Switzerland, the model name, a production or serial number and the fact that it has an automatic movement. Engraving a case back with the wording 'automatic' while only 3mm from the automatic movement that can be seen through the transparent case back, seems kind of dumb actually. R&D and marketing fails to communicate with each other once more.









A size comparison shot between my own 39mm AP ROC and this 42mm Calibre de Cartier​
In the end, Cartier delivered a timepiece for men without a doubt. Calibre de Cartier is a masculine watch with an interesting in-house movement, superb finish on case and dial and in an interesting price level for a brand like Cartier. For approximately 5000,- Euro (list price), you will own a watch manufactured by a brand that has an impeccable history in watchmaking and you won't look bad between all the Rolex, Panerai and IWC watches at your office (or wherever you'll see nice watches).

The fact that the strap has been attached in a lousy manner to the clasp is a bit worrying for a watch in this price range, but I don't want to be premature about this as I haven't seen it failing or haven't heard about any problems with it (yet).

It certainly isn't a watch for me, although I was kind of excited about it at first, as the specifications and pictures were promising. The fact that Cartier had made a watch that is masculine, using an in-house movement but yet affordable (kind of) was intriguing, but we didn't connect at all. I could live with the strap and folding clasp if I had too, but the overall look & feel doesn't match me.

All photos by me.

Please let me know what you think about this Calibre de Cartier or Cartier watches in general!

Robert-Jan


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## Watchbreath (Feb 12, 2006)

Now, let the Cartier-Haters start whining. Eight screws on the back to boot!


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## Goodchip (Apr 21, 2011)

I've had my Calibre de Cartier for about 8 months now, and very much enjoying it.
Like you, I was unimpressed with the strap / clasp combination, but for a different reason. I could not get the watch to sit right on my wrist. I had the two strap ends adjusted about as much as I dared, and still could not get it right.
Then in this month's Watchtime magazine, there is a picture of the watch and strap with the clasp removed, and a caption to the effect that the clasp allows for significant adjustment. THat gave me an idea, and I switched the clasp around, so that it, in effect, buckles up backwards. Not that I think there is a right or wrong way, but I now engage the clasp by pushing it away from my body, and the watch now fits perfectly. The extra strap length is now evenly split between the two ends of the clasp.
And I am much happier with my watch!.


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## mGARANDEUR1 (Apr 11, 2011)

Watchbreath said:


> Now, let the Cartier-Haters start whining. Eight screws on the back to boot!


It appears that Cartier has upped their game. I always thought that Cartier watches were overpriced for what they were. 5000E for an in-house movement watch isn't bad.

If Michele started producing their own hand assembled movements, I would have to change my mind about the company. I just don't think a brand name is worth the thousands that people are willing to shell out for them.


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## The1 (Feb 1, 2012)

Goodchip said:


> I've had my Calibre de Cartier for about 8 months now, and very much enjoying it.
> Like you, I was unimpressed with the strap / clasp combination, but for a different reason. I could not get the watch to sit right on my wrist. I had the two strap ends adjusted about as much as I dared, and still could not get it right.
> Then in this month's Watchtime magazine, there is a picture of the watch and strap with the clasp removed, and a caption to the effect that the clasp allows for significant adjustment. THat gave me an idea, and I switched the clasp around, so that it, in effect, buckles up backwards. Not that I think there is a right or wrong way, but I now engage the clasp by pushing it away from my body, and the watch now fits perfectly. The extra strap length is now evenly split between the two ends of the clasp.
> And I am much happier with my watch!.


any updates on your ownership experiences with this watch since you played with the strap? Is it still holding strong?


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## MrTissot (Jul 8, 2012)

A very tempting watch!


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## MrTissot (Jul 8, 2012)

I also agree that the strap and folding clasp setup is a little let down and could have been much better designed. I also share the opinion that a watch with Roman Numerals is synonymous with Leather.......Roman Numerals especially with a Stainless Steel Bracelet just doesn't cut it for me! Once again that is my own opinion. There is another issue with this watch that really irked me when I went to check it out at several Authorised Dealers as well as a Cartier Boutique. Every single Cartier Calibre De Cartier watch I got to play around with shared the same issue where when adjusting the time and pushing the crown back in, the minute hand jumped forward approximately A WHOLE MINUTE!! Not acceptable for a watch of this stature and price point and from such a renown brand. What on earth is going on? Has anyone else come across this problem? Also someone please correct me if i'm wrong, but I think the inhouse movement in this watch is based on a Jaeger LeCoultre base calibre.


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## Dbc0919 (Sep 8, 2012)

I purchased a calibre with the alligator strap in December of 2010. SS bracelet was not yet available. About four months ago, the strap started falling apart. About a month ago, still within the two year warranty, it completely fell apart. Brought it into the Cartier boutique a few weeks ago and they refuse to replace the strap, indicating this is normal wear and tear. I was astonished. Am I wrong to think that the strap on a $7k watch should last more than a year and a half? New strap costs $330. Does it seem reasonable for Cartier to expect customers to pay $220 per year to own their watch? BTW - the strap fell apart at the spot on the inside of the strap where the notoriously poorly designed Cartier deployant clasp contacts the strap


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## Athram (May 31, 2012)

Dbc0919 said:


> I purchased a calibre with the alligator strap in December of 2010. SS bracelet was not yet available. About four months ago, the strap started falling apart. About a month ago, still within the two year warranty, it completely fell apart. Brought it into the Cartier boutique a few weeks ago and they refuse to replace the strap, indicating this is normal wear and tear. I was astonished. Am I wrong to think that the strap on a $7k watch should last more than a year and a half? New strap costs $330. Does it seem reasonable for Cartier to expect customers to pay $220 per year to own their watch? BTW - the strap fell apart at the spot on the inside of the strap where the notoriously poorly designed Cartier deployant clasp contacts the strap


It is standard for a company to not cover a strap with the warranty unless there is an obvious defect. At the end of the day leather straps are not as durable as steel and do wear a lot more easily as a result depending on how often you wear your watch and in what situations your wear it. If i wore a watch 24/7 for almost a year and a half and never took it off then I'd be very happy with what is effectively almost a year and a half lifespan of a leather strap.


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## Atoning Unifex (Aug 21, 2012)

Try as they might to become more respected amongst the male WIS crowd, 1 in-house movement does not make a manufactory.
Sapphire on the crown? Still a fashion watch.


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## MrTissot (Jul 8, 2012)

Dbc0919 said:


> I purchased a calibre with the alligator strap in December of 2010. SS bracelet was not yet available. About four months ago, the strap started falling apart. About a month ago, still within the two year warranty, it completely fell apart. Brought it into the Cartier boutique a few weeks ago and they refuse to replace the strap, indicating this is normal wear and tear. I was astonished. Am I wrong to think that the strap on a $7k watch should last more than a year and a half? New strap costs $330. Does it seem reasonable for Cartier to expect customers to pay $220 per year to own their watch? BTW - the strap fell apart at the spot on the inside of the strap where the notoriously poorly designed Cartier deployant clasp contacts the strap


Sorry to hear that. That is very dissapointing and by the sounds of it the service even more!


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## docjay (Dec 9, 2011)

i don't like the alligator strap at all and trying to find a replacement steel strap. It's like $1500 from Cartier!


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## anfield_ace (Apr 30, 2012)

Hi all
I have a quick question. I want to buy a cartier watch..My heart always went out for the Santos 100XL two tone chrono and I found a pre owned one in great condition for $6000. The shop also has a preowned calibre de cartier two tone in leather for $4500...Both are good deals I believe, but isn't the Calibre a better deal so to speak? MY heart goes out to the Santos, prettier, heavier, feels like "real" watch so to speak, but my mind tells me to go with the calibre (in house movement, newer model etc..)
Any help out there?
Thanks


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## Ipromise (Jan 14, 2013)

A coworker of mine has this watch too - definitely not a fan. It's too big for what's essentially a dress watch, and their obsession with the cobachon is a mystery. I'd expect a little better finishing on the movement as well - you'd find better on Frederique Constant.

I've always struggled to understand Cartier's reputation in the watch world. I don't see what they've really done since after 1920 that's had any real horological merit. At least not to command the prices they do. I'm always ears if someone can enlighten me though.


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## Puffknuckle (Oct 23, 2014)

This is the first time I've paid attention to a Cartier Watch that wasn't the tank. This is beautiful.


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## Royal68 (Dec 1, 2018)

Dbc0919 said:


> I purchased a calibre with the alligator strap in December of 2010. SS bracelet was not yet available. About four months ago, the strap started falling apart. About a month ago, still within the two year warranty, it completely fell apart. Brought it into the Cartier boutique a few weeks ago and they refuse to replace the strap, indicating this is normal wear and tear. I was astonished. Am I wrong to think that the strap on a $7k watch should last more than a year and a half? New strap costs $330. Does it seem reasonable for Cartier to expect customers to pay $220 per year to own their watch? BTW - the strap fell apart at the spot on the inside of the strap where the notoriously poorly designed Cartier deployant clasp contacts the strap


Wow, that's crazy! Did you every get it wet or anything? Thankfully my strap is still strong I just hate how it creases so easily/looks so worn when you readjust the strap.


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## Royal68 (Dec 1, 2018)

Ipromise said:


> A coworker of mine has this watch too - definitely not a fan. It's too big for what's essentially a dress watch, and their obsession with the cobachon is a mystery. I'd expect a little better finishing on the movement as well - you'd find better on Frederique Constant.
> 
> I've always struggled to understand Cartier's reputation in the watch world. I don't see what they've really done since after 1920 that's had any real horological merit. At least not to command the prices they do. I'm always ears if someone can enlighten me though.


I get what you mean by it being too large as most dress watches are usually smaller and thinner. Although mine is on a leather strap I wear it as an everyday watch as opposed to strictly a dress watch and I think it has to do with the large sizing and design elements. The smaller 38mm version would definitely be a dress watch but this bigger 42mm has a sporty element to it that allows it to be worn for daily wear.


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## Chaos_meme (Mar 16, 2019)

Good review on what I think is an overlooked model from an overlooked brand. I kind of wish that the crystal had a bit more bubble to it, but at least it is not completely flat and reflective like certain other brands. I’m really interested in the new Santos myself. The brand is developing their sport and dress watch brands well, and will hopefully become something that consumers in these segments will not be able to overlook as simply a jewelry / lux baubles brand.


Strong alternate to OP 39, Aquaterra, and GS snowflake. (Aware those are bracelet models)


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## Nokie (Jul 4, 2011)

They are great watches that fly under the radar for most.


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