# Grand Seiko SBGR251: Like vanilla, but the best one there is



## Tonhao

This morning, I left my house without a watch for the first time by mistake. When I arrived at my office and tried to check my wrist, only then I realized there was nothing on my wrist. It felt like I forgot my shoes or something. So there I was, trudging through Monday and checking the time on my phone like a normal person... and then I got a call from the receptionist. "You got a package from Japan?"

At first I had no idea. I did buy a Grand Seiko from Japan, but barely 4 days had passed and I wasn't given the tracking number for some reason. So maybe I thought it was that strap from Etsy over in Tokyo. When I held the package I knew it was too big to be a strap... and then my senses lit up. Could it be "the" Grand Seiko? I opened it up like a kid unwrapping his Christmas gift, and thus I was not to be watch-less even on the day I left my watch at home.










Discovering the SBGR251, a relatively low-key model in the GS lineup, took some time. I found few reviews and fewer videos of this watch, perhaps owing to the popularity and ingenuity of the Spring Drive, as well as the Hi-beat. (Just as how El Primero outshines every other Zenith movement) But I wanted a reliable mechanical, under 39mm, and representative of the original Taro Tanaka's blueprint "Grammar of Design." So I walked into the only local AD that stocked GS, and lined up the watches on the counter. (Next to the GS lay Tutima and H. Moser - a true WIS dealer!) SBGR251, 255, 261, 299... all the models had a bit of flavor in them.* Cream dial, crown guard, GMT, and so on. But I knew I wanted the 251, and its 37mm silver sunburst dial. The AD was kind enough to hand me a booklet:
(*Honorable mention goes to SBGR255 at 39.4mm; has an Ingenieur aesthetic to it)










Much has been said about the GS finishing, and I find few words to add, except that you can actually use the side of your watch as a tiny mirror. The case polish inside the watch is also noteworthy and contributes to the sparkling effect. When Taro Tanaka, the first designer hired by Seiko, saw the sales counter and noticed how dull Japanese watches looked in comparison to the Swiss products, he set out to fix it. Thanks to him, every GS has a way of reflecting light and the SBGR does it very well even with its small case size. (My wrist is 6.7 inches)










That was a lot of words to say GS over-delivers even at their most "vanilla" level of watchmaking. This is a watch that doesn't pretend to be anything else, but what it does, it does best.


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## bluedialer

It really is an awesome looking watch, as is SBGR253.
The sizing should be the standard for GS, but unfortunately Seiko is tending to go with 40mm as their contemporary. Disappointing for me, 38mm is my sweet spot, and 37mm works too. Great size for you. Enjoy!


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## ahonobaka

Congrats and enjoy! Perhaps you'll bump into me downtown wearing an 053...Truly underrated, these are IMO perfect GS designs and maybe the most bang for buck


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## mui.richard

Congrats and enjoy the watch! I too landed on the same watch, but mine still had the Seiko logo (SBGR051). To me it's not vanilla at all, but more like those simple dark chocolate thins will nothing added...simple and yet full of flavor!









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## valuewatchguy

Not all vanilla is the same









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## Berkut

Congrats!


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## Jezza

Perfection looks simple, and the 251 is pretty close to perfect in my book. My first and favorite GS. Congrats!


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## Gizanthepuss

Congrats ! That's a fine looking watch, I really like it. And I like the "vanilla" flavor, the reason I chose the SBGR307 as my first GS was because of it's relatively (albeit chunky @ 42mm) modest appearance - apart from the blued second hand... I'm a sucker for a blued second hand, it's my weakness... 

Question is: what's next ? I'm thinking, 3 hands... no date... handwind for myself, maybe that would appeal to you as well, as your taste seems to lean that way.

Wear your new beauty in the best of health !


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## arogle1stus

DYL:
I discovered long ago I'd never be able scrape up enuff geetus (even a used one) to get a GS.
Not gonna happen in this lifetime. So I just ignore GS, Rolex Explorer, Omega Speedie etal.
Like to look tho.
Bros and sisters who can afford em? More power to ya!
So many great watches, so little disposable income to buy one! 

X Traindriver Art


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## JoeC

Outstanding exercise in handcrafted simplicity - enjoy it well!


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## Tonhao

Gizanthepuss said:


> Congrats ! That's a fine looking watch, I really like it. And I like the "vanilla" flavor, the reason I chose the SBGR307 as my first GS was because of it's relatively (albeit chunky @ 42mm) modest appearance - apart from the blued second hand... I'm a sucker for a blued second hand, it's my weakness...


Thanks! SBGR307 would have been a no-brainer for me, had it been smaller. GS seems to prefer the more contemporary size of 40mm and up these days. (And some European brands are downsizing cases for the Asian market...) The blued second hand alone is worth it, maybe I'll try SBGJ201 in the future. In person this watch looked more "jumbo" due to the sideskirts being flatter, rather than angled downwards. Reminds me of a spaceship. I think this was how the first GS cases looked!


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## kepa

Nice pick up. Congrats. 


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## mpalmer

You have an understated classy watch there. Congrats and enjoy your Grand Seiko!


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## Tonhao

Day 2 and already two compliments in - and in a non-WIS workplace! The sparkle does draw looks. One of my colleagues noticed it on the elevator and exclaimed "Wow, is that a Rolex?" I told him it's a Seiko (didn't want to make a big deal) and he asks, "Seiko? The Seiko from Japan?" "Yep."

Today it's on a cordovan strap. Will add a croc for an upcoming friend's wedding!


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## royalenfield

Very nice on the strap as well...you could be bold and wear on a red croc!


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## Mark355

Congrats! Great size and looks at home on a strap.


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## Watch19

Beautiful watch in a perfect size. 
Timeless design. Not vanilla, just everything you need and nothing you don't.


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## SeanE

Very nice. I would do exactly what you are doing if I had this by varying the straps and bracelet wear to change the character day to day. Truly a daily driver with lots of class and not seen everyday.


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## Tonhao

SeanE said:


> Very nice. I would do exactly what you are doing if I had this by varying the straps and bracelet wear to change the character day to day. Truly a daily driver with lots of class and not seen everyday.


Switching a bracelet out is usually a tedious affair, but the drilled lugs on this watch seems to indicate that its designers indeed had multiple strap choices in mind. Will add a picture when brown croc arrives.


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## Gizanthepuss

DYL said:


> Switching a bracelet out is usually a tedious affair


It's just practice. Once you've done it a hundred times, it gets to be quite easy and painless


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## jdmvette

Handsome and elegant looking, good choice!


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## cnj8w

I'm late to this thread--but your GS is beautiful! This is a model I've been attracted to for some time.

I'm curious, how do you feel about the thickness of the watch?

Thanks for any insights!


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## Tonhao

cnj8w said:


> I'm late to this thread--but your GS is beautiful! This is a model I've been attracted to for some time.
> 
> I'm curious, how do you feel about the thickness of the watch?
> 
> Thanks for any insights!


Now that's a topic I've been thinking for some time, since I've worn it for several months now. I prefer wearing it on a leather strap, which dials down the thickness somewhat. But there's no getting around it - this watch (and most GS) is thick. Like sports watch thick.

Of course, Grand Seiko doesn't just make a thick watch without reasons. First you have the tall, mirror polished rehaut (sidewalls between the crystal and dial) which adds some height, but contributes to the sparkle effect by acting as a mirror wall. And then there's the dial - look closely at the date window and you find that it's indented pretty deep, possibly as much as the hour markers are raised. This would've been a conscious choice.

Finally, GS seems to prefer durability over size in terms of movement - I am basing this over the fact that some parts that have been thickened for the latest 9S, and also a GS watchmaker stating in an interview that he anticipates old Japanese dads to never come back for service in 10+ years, and builds the watch accordingly.

My concluding thoughts? For a dressy watch like this 10-11mm is probably ideal. GS could maybe shave a bit off by using solid casebacks, but anything beyond will probably result in a different looking watch. The call is yours to make - you could go GS manual, quartz, or vintage even, but if you go for it do consider the 13.3mm thickness. That said I still think this model is damn near perfect.


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## cnj8w

Hi Tonhao--Thank you for this really thoughtful reply! Your descriptions of some of the reasons for the thickness of the watch are great insights--really--you pointed to some things I'd never considered. I guess I, too, prefer watches in the 10-11mm range for thickness. That's part of what has drawn me to the quartz models--especially sbgx059/259. (And I'd never thought I'd be drawn to quartz.) But in the pics in your thread and elsewhere on the web, the sbgr251 looks stunning--and 37mm is a perfect size for me. It's good to read that you find the watch "near perfect."

What is the manual GS you were referring to?

Thanks again for your insights!


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## Tonhao

cnj8w said:


> Hi Tonhao--Thank you for this really thoughtful reply! Your descriptions of some of the reasons for the thickness of the watch are great insights--really--you pointed to some things I'd never considered. I guess I, too, prefer watches in the 10-11mm range for thickness.
> 
> What is the manual GS you were referring to?


No problem. It's true for all watches, but GS always benefits from handling it in person because of the way it reflects light - something no photo can replicate.

GS has always offered manuals in the past, but current ones I know are SBGW235(also offered with strap) and SBGW039(First GS remake). Both are around 11mm. I haven't handled any GS manual in person, but that blue hand is lovely.


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## whineboy

Tonhao said:


> No problem. It's true for all watches, but GS always benefits from handling it in person because of the way it reflects light - something no photo can replicate.
> 
> GS has always offered manuals in the past, but current ones I know are SBGW235(also offered with strap) and SBGW039(First GS remake). Both are around 11mm. I haven't handled any GS manual in person, but that blue hand is lovely.


Big handwinding fan here (5 currently), the SBGW035 is my favorite. It wears smaller than many other GSs because of the more traditional lugged case (which I like). Quite a bit of the height comes from the deeply domed crystal. I see an advertised thickness of 11.6 mm, but I just measured mine and it's 12.0 mm. Maybe it's the layer of gunk on the back of the case  . Seiko builds'm thick - my 50 year old Lord Marvel is 11 mm thick (also heavily domed crystal). On the wrist it's much less noticeable than my 14 mm thick GS GMT, it's not just the 2 mm, it's how the watch is designed.

The watch is a treat to wind, smooth, nice sense of resistance as you turn the crown with slight vibration feeding back from the click.

For reference, my wrist is 7.5", and thick, not flat:


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## Tonhao

whineboy said:


> Big handwinding fan here (5 currently), the SBGW035 is my favorite. It wears smaller than many other GSs because of the more traditional lugged case (which I like). Quite a bit of the height comes from the deeply domed crystal. I see an advertised thickness of 11.6 mm, but I just measured mine and it's 12.0 mm. Maybe it's the layer of gunk on the back of the case  . Seiko builds'm thick - my 50 year old Lord Marvel is 11 mm thick (also heavily domed crystal). On the wrist it's much less noticeable than my 14 mm thick GS GMT, it's not just the 2 mm, it's how the watch is designed.
> 
> The watch is a treat to wind, smooth, nice sense of resistance as you turn the crown with slight vibration feeding back from the click.
> 
> For reference, my wrist is 7.5", and thick, not flat:
> 
> View attachment 13316915


Thanks for chiming in! GS manual is a rarer sight and it nails the traditional proportions of a dress watch at 37.3mm X 11.6mm. You'd have to wind it for all 72 hours worth, but a small price to pay indeed...

Here's mine on croc today.


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## whineboy

Tonhao said:


> Thanks for chiming in! GS manual is a rarer sight and it nails the traditional proportions of a dress watch at 37.3mm X 11.6mm. You'd have to wind it for all 72 hours worth, but a small price to pay indeed...
> 
> Here's mine on croc today.


That watch is 'icy goodness'.

Why, oh why, can't I get my iPhone to focus crisply like that?


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## MichaelvonEnzberg

Congrats , It's look simple but amazing.


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## cnj8w

Thanks Tonhao and Whineboy--those pics are fantastic. The SBGW035 is so nice! and of course I love the SBGR251. It looks great on the brown croc--nice contrast of the warm brown and the cooler silver of the watch. 

I just discovered the sbgw031, which is really nice--a lovely hand-wind model.

Thanks again, everyone--I think I'm less concerned about the thickness now. Probably you just get used to it, too!


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## Tonhao

It's been almost 8 months and I've picked up a few scratches along the way, but the GS continues to tick reliably and shows near perfect accuracy when I rest it crown up at night.

At this point I've also tried all three fastening options (bracelet, GS deployant, pin buckle) and found the buckle most comfortable. The branded deployant is meant to be used with compatible straps and wasn't ideal. I wore this mainly on alligator, maybe 30% on bracelet, and the rest on black Horween cordovan. I find the bracelet a bit heavy for my taste.

Exactly one person has ever commented on my watch and I like it that way.

Anyway, here are better quality close-up shots:


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## jcc5024

Simple and elegant watch.

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