# Exactly how do you use a Cape Cod cloth?



## Nato060

I bought a Cape Cod cloth and it came today and I'm a little confused as to the use. The way the back explains it you use it as you would car wax. Rub the object, then use a dry cloth to remove it. However how long do I rub it on there for? And should I let it sit for a little while before removing it? What should I do to get the best results?


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## VenatorWatch

Nato060 said:


> I bought a Cape Cod cloth and it came today and I'm a little confused as to the use. The way the back explains it you use it as you would car wax. Rub the object, then use a dry cloth to remove it. However how long do I rub it on there for? And should I let it sit for a little while before removing it? What should I do to get the best results?


Just like waxing a car basically. Those things are great! I used one to polish off an AR coating before.... Be careful if there are parts you don't want to polish. take scotch tape and mask what you need too.


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## Nato060

jaytaras said:


> Just like waxing a car basically. Those things are great! I used one to polish off an AR coating before.... Be careful if there are parts you don't want to polish. take scotch tape and mask what you need too.


Ah, I got it thanks. So this can actually remove a brushed finish?


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## VenatorWatch

Nato060 said:


> Ah, I got it thanks. So this can actually remove a brushed finish?


I am not sure about that. But it will shine it up I would think lol! They are stronger than you would think, especially using some elbow grease.....

Sent from the NATO Genie's ipad mini using Tapatalk HD


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## jilgiljongiljing

Yes it WILL remove brushed finishes. If you have a case or bracelet that has contrasting surfaces, you have to be careful. Start by cutting the cloth to a size that fits the part so there isnt extra that might rub onto the other surfaces. If you have outside AR and you dont want to remove it, be especially careful around the crystal. 

But the damn thing works wonders. As long as you dont feel the scratch with your fingers, in most cases, it can polish it back to new. Just might take a bit of effort and your fingers might hurt at the end, but its worth it.


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## mleok

The key is to tape off the brushed areas you don't wish to polish. Be careful to retain the sharp edges of your case. Consider using polyimide heat resistant tape, like DuPont Kapton tape, or this cheap alternative from DealExtreme:

Polyimide Heat Resistant/High Temperature Adhesive Tape (8MM*33M/260-C) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

It comes in a variety of tape widths, which is particularly helpful when you have a bracelet with alternating brushed and polished finishing.


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## Nato060

Thanks for the warnings guys, didn't know these things were so powerful. I just wanted to refinish my SMP, the alternating brushed and polished surfaces are gonna be hard though.


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## mleok

Nato060 said:


> Thanks for the warnings guys, didn't know these things were so powerful. I just wanted to refinish my SMP, the alternating brushed and polished surfaces are gonna be hard though.


If you want a very bright brushed finish on parts of your watch, the way to do this is to first polish everything to a high polish, then tape off the parts you want to stay mirror polished, and then rebrush the parts which should have a brushed finish.


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## Nato060

Little update, these things are incredible! I had to be a bit careful, but I polished the lug of my SMP and it looks amazing. That one lug looks brand new compared to the others. I see why these are so used here, they really do work wonders. Amazing!


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## lumm0x

I agree. Bought a pack myself and am stunned how well they work on metals. I spent an hour trimming masking tape with a exacto knife on one watch to just get the polished metals though.


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## fatehbajwa

A slightly OT question. Is it the fibres of the cloth that bring the shine or is it the oily stuff its drenched with? How does the damn thing work? I've always wanted to know this.


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## mpalmer

I'll have to try this out. I keep reading about it, but have never got ambitious enough to order any...


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## Dancing Fire

I would be too chicken to try it.


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## JoshTheCanadian

I too am way too chicken to try it. Back to the manufacture it shall go when the time has come! I just get nervous about removing too much of the steel.


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## Nokie

> The key is to tape off the brushed areas you don't wish to polish. Be careful to retain the sharp edges of your case. Consider using polyimide heat resistant tape, like DuPont Kapton tape, or this cheap alternative from DealExtreme:


Right on! Excellent advice.

The cloth itself comes pre-treated with a chemical polishing compound impregnated within the cloth. As you buff, the compound in conjunction with the fibrous cloth and the friction created by the rubbing motion acts just like a mild rubbing compound you would use on a car to remove scratches from the paint.

It is more of a chemical reaction than a rubbing action, but it takes both elements to work effectively.

They are very easy to use, again, just make sure to tape off the areas you don't want the compound to interact with. 
(Try not to get any of it on the crystal as it can remove the AR coating). 
It is also a good idea to wear Nitrile gloves or some other protection on your hands to minimize your skin contact with the cloth.

It will level (flatten out) scratches on brushed surfaces as well, but can sometimes go too far and leave the surface with a polished look, so be aware of that outcome if you use it too aggressively on a brushed surface. It it does happen, you can use a white fine-grade scotch brite pad, a fine #00-000 polishing block, or other corrective material to "re-brush" the polished area if needed.

It will not remove anything too deep, as that usually requires a friction pad/tool (dremel, etc) and jewelers rouge or something similar, but it works great for most of the surface stuff.

I have found you can use them repeatedly with success until they are completely black from tarnish removal before they have to be replaced. And I have also found that you can extend their life and keep the chemical compound in the cloth from evaporating faster if you store them in a re-sealable plastic bag between uses as opposed to just leaving them in their plastic envelops as they came within their pouch, or can, depending on how you buy them.

I use them as needed on car trim (old car restoration is my other less expensive hobby.........), have fixed the wife's metal picture frames, and used them to polish out the exterior of my dog's stainless steel water bowl, so it is a very versatile product.


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## fjcamry

Nokie said:


> Right on! Excellent advice.
> 
> The cloth itself comes pre-treated with a chemical polishing compound impregnated within the cloth. As you buff, the compound in conjunction with the fibrous cloth and the friction created by the rubbing motion acts just like a mild rubbing compound you would use on a car to remove scratches from the paint.
> 
> It is more of a chemical reaction than a rubbing action, but it takes both elements to work effectively.
> 
> They are very easy to use, again, just make sure to tape off the areas you don't want the compound to interact with.
> (Try not to get any of it on the crystal as it can remove the AR coating).
> It is also a good idea to wear Nitrile gloves or some other protection on your hands to minimize your skin contact with the cloth.
> 
> It will level (flatten out) scratches on brushed surfaces as well, but can sometimes go too far and leave the surface with a polished look, so be aware of that outcome if you use it too aggressively on a brushed surface. It it does happen, you can use a white fine-grade scotch brite pad, a fine #00-000 polishing block, or other corrective material to "re-brush" the polished area if needed.
> 
> It will not remove anything too deep, as that usually requires a friction pad/tool (dremel, etc) and jewelers rouge or something similar, but it works great for most of the surface stuff.
> 
> I have found you can use them repeatedly with success until they are completely black from tarnish removal before they have to be replaced. And I have also found that you can extend their life and keep the chemical compound in the cloth from evaporating faster if you store them in a re-sealable plastic bag between uses as opposed to just leaving them in their plastic envelops as they came within their pouch, or can, depending on how you buy them.
> 
> I use them as needed on car trim (old car restoration is my other less expensive hobby.........), have fixed the wife's metal picture frames, and used them to polish out the exterior of my dog's stainless steel water bowl, so it is a very versatile product.


Thanks, this really helped. I kept telling myself that after 1 or 2 tries with the Cape Cod Cloth, I must get this much improvement and no more was left. But I got some Nitrile gloves and went back to work with the Cape Cod Cloth. I put more effort in buffing the scratches out, and the case back looks brand new. Where I used to have scratch marks from either an abrasive nylon band or my arm hairs, now I have a mirror finish thanks to not quiting. I kept picturing what you said about restoring antique automobiles and your dog bowl, when I built myself up today to try the third time.


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## Nokie

They are very versatile. Just apply some elbow grease and repeat the steps as many times as it takes to remove the markings to your satisfaction. Too many people only make 1-2 light passes when it might take numerous applications to correct the issue. Good luck!


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