# Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch



## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Recently, there was a thread asking what your sweet spot was for the number of watches. As I wrote and reflected on my response, I came to the alarming discovery that I am indeed open to the idea of wearing just one watch. Now, I may own multiple, but I would be content wearing essentially the "one watch" for the conceivable near-future.

My experience in wearing my Rolex Explorer for all my adventures certainly contributed to where I am today. I hadn't ever really considered an automatic to be capable of withstanding the abuse that I would throw at it. But seeing the Explorer do well despite everything made me realize just how much I liked a mechanical that could take a beating. Plus, I rather like the fact that the watch would have a terrific history behind it.

But here's the wrinkle. Recently, I took my Explorer II to a black tie event, and it felt out of place. Yes, it was okay breaking the rules just for kicks, but I certainly felt that I could have worn a much more graceful watch in its place. Indeed, I am often in a suit and tie, and I feel quite uncomfortable wearing the Explorer and end up going for one of my dressier watches, such as a Datejust or my FC Moonphase, or even my vintage Omega Seamaster.

But that got me thinking. Is there a watch that could truly be just the "one watch"?

For it to be truly the one watch for me, there are just two conditions:

1. Should be a real dress watch
2. Should be water resistant, shock resistant, and withstand extreme temperatures

*1. Should be a dress watch
*
When I say dress watch, I want something that is truly a dress watch. I am thinking ALS Saxonia Thin or Credor Eichi II, not Omega Aqua Terra. Thin, sleek, and elegant, with no frills.



















I am even open to other complications, such as moon phase and date - in fact, that would be terrific. But the dial itself should be clean and simple. And it should come in leather.










I would really prefer not having any digits, but willing to make exceptions for the right watch, such as the one below:










*2a. Should be water resistant
*
I enjoy sailing. And swimming. When I am traveling, I do some kayaking and whitewater rafting. And since I am here in Australia, I am hoping to pick up surfing and even kite-surfing. Suffice it to say my watch needs to be able to withstand water. I am not looking for it to have 100m water resistance, but I would like a watch I can wear on a sailboat, where I may decide to hop into the water to save a scantily clad damsel.

So, no dive watch requirements but I would like a reasonable amount of water resistance of being able to withstand a swim in the ocean.

*2b. Should be shock resistant*

This is fairly evident. My primary sport of choice is mountaineering and rock and ice climbing. I am completely cool with scratches and dents. But I do want my watch to be able to withstand reasonable amounts of shocks. What if falls from a camel while traversing a desert? Or if I have an wreck when riding? If my hand, made of flesh and bone is not destroyed, I expect my watch to more or less be in shape. It can lose some time here and there, but I expect it to be more or less functional.

*2c. Should withstand extreme temperatures*

I just expect to wear it to places with lots of snow and places with incredible amounts of heat, and not die. Nothing crazy, and nothing where it would be hard enough for me to survive. But as I said, I do like to go mountaineering, so maybe an icy peak and a desert?

Surprisingly, I am not picky about movement or price. I would prefer an automatic, of course, but I am open to other movements. If this is to be my one watch, I am willing to entertain any price point.

So, is there such a watch? Or should I just be content with having reached this point in itself?


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## D.Brown (Oct 10, 2017)

Instead of pushing the boundaries, I would say your scenario calls for owning multiple watches. It makes zero sense to stress yourself or purchase a watch that you may not be in love with, just because of it's all around capabilities. There's no harm in having several watches in your collection, especially hearing your requirements. Just get another watch that suits the occasion. If you can't be bothered to take the time to take off a watch and toss on another one, I'd say you have bigger issues, such as time management.


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## oso2276 (Apr 19, 2017)

Perhaps the Damasko DK105?









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## GMH Watches (Jul 21, 2016)

OP 36 or 39 swapped onto strap?


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

D.Brown said:


> Instead of pushing the boundaries, I would say your scenario calls for owning multiple watches. It makes zero sense to stress yourself or purchase a watch that you may not be in love with, just because of it's all around capabilities. There's no harm in having several watches in your collection, especially hearing your requirements. Just get another watch that suits the occasion. If you can't be bothered to take the time to take off a watch and toss on another one, I'd say you have bigger issues, such as time management.


To be honest, that's pretty much where I am at right now. My circulation mostly consists of Explorer II, B&M Flyback, FC Moonphase, and DJ.

All other watches get very little wear. Now, I can see myself consolidating this into maybe a rugged chronograph and a dress watch -- say, Daytona and Saxonia Thin.

But there is something to be said about the charm of having just one watch for all occasions. I can't quite describe it, but I have this urge to basically minimize what I wear on a daily basis. That's not to say I'll magically give away my Breitling B-1 or my grandfather's Patek -- merely that there's a difference between having a collection and choosing to wear just one watch.

At the end of the day, this is just a fun exercise for a fun hobby.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

oso2276 said:


> Perhaps the Damasko DK105?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not a fan of the aesthetic, I am afraid. The markers seem too thick and I am not too keen on the sub-seconds or the date.

It is a good looking watch, and comes close -- just wish it looked more "dressy".


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## GMH Watches (Jul 21, 2016)

Or the Sinn 556


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

GMH Watches said:


> OP 36 or 39 swapped onto strap?


Oh I really like that idea. This looks like it would look stunning on a leather strap.


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

I assume you consider the Explorer 1 (not the one you have) in the same boat as an omega AT (I.e., not dressy enough)?


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

GMH Watches said:


> Or the Sinn 556


I think the universe created Sinn to taunt me.

In all seriousness, not sure how I feel about Sinn as a dress watch. Right now, the Rolex OP 39 seems to be a top contender. The blue and the gray dials both look good, although I am curious to see if they really look that dark in real life.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

mak1277 said:


> I assume you consider the Explorer 1 (not the one you have) in the same boat as an omega AT (I.e., not dressy enough)?


Unfortunately, yes. My ideal watch would be something incredibly dressy - like the Saxonia Thin or the Credor pictured above - but can take a beating.


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## GlennO (Jan 3, 2010)

I'll offer a high end quartz option. Some qualities that might be relevant to your quest:

- Inherent durability of quartz
- 9.8mm thick
- 100m WR
- PTIC Duratect treatment


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## Chronopolis (Apr 8, 2009)

Metlin said:


> Unfortunately, yes. My ideal watch would be something incredibly dressy - like the Saxonia Thin or the Credor pictured above - but can take a beating.


Is this not a bit like asking for a Speedo that can also keep your feet warm?


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Thank you, that's a great looking watch! I look up photos of the Chronomaster, and it looks incredibly well made.

I am pretty agnostic when it comes to movement, and while the "tick-tock" does bother me a little, I do appreciate the fact that it ticks all other boxes!


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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

Moser Pioneer and a large wrist update? See photo.

The Zenith El Primero is rated to 100m, but isnt a "pure" dress watch either.









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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Chronopolis said:


> Is this not a bit like asking for a Speedo that can also keep your feet warm?


Is it? I honestly do not know. And quite frankly I hadn't really thought of it until today.

We are conditioned to think within the boundaries that are learned, but seldom ask why.

Why not a dress watch that is also reasonably water and shock resistant? Indeed, there is nothing stopping Rolex from making a dressier version of their caliber 3186. I would absolutely buy a rugged dress watch, even if it was somewhat larger.

But for some reason, there seems to be this artificial dichotomy between dress and tool watches that seems entirely conjured up.

And I understand (conceptually) that the "dress watch" market is probably filled with people who are unlikely to be adventurous, and the "tool watch" market is filled with people who detest suits. But is it really that cut and dry?


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## Tanjecterly (Mar 13, 2013)

Tudor Black Bay 36 or 41 seems to fit your bill. Dressy and GADA.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Tanjecterly said:


> Tudor Black Bay 36 or 41 seems to fit your bill. Dressy and GADA.


Thank you for your suggestion. Unfortunately, I do not feel that the Black Bay really fits the bill for a dress watch.

Mostly, I think it's because the markers and hands are a bit too "fat" and not dainty enough. The redundant markers (i.e., dots and the lines) don't help, either. That's not to say I am against redundant markers per se - merely that you can do it in a way that's much more... dressy.


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## Chronopolis (Apr 8, 2009)

I probably don't have the requisite engineering knowledge to be sure, but it seems to me that 
the thinness that you want would go directly against the ruggedness you require.

Also, if such a watch existed, it would already be pretty well-known by now.
I mean, who doesn't want both of those characteristics?

That DAMASKO posted in a previous post might have been an attempt to do this very thing, but then they had to "ruin" it with those fat indices. Sigh.



Metlin said:


> Is it? I honestly do not know. And quite frankly I hadn't really thought of it until today.
> 
> We are conditioned to think within the boundaries that are learned, but seldom ask why.
> 
> ...


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

vkalia said:


> Moser Pioneer and a large wrist update? See photo.
> 
> The Zenith El Primero is rated to 100m, but isnt a "pure" dress watch either.
> 
> ...


Sorry, your image is too blurry to make out. Is this the watch you are talking about? Any idea how rugged it is? It's a pretty great looking watch, and I think it would look terrific in leather.


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## Chronopolis (Apr 8, 2009)

Too many people seem to equate "expensive" with "dressy."

I know exactly what you're looking for, and yet, it does not exist.



Metlin said:


> Thank you for your suggestion. Unfortunately, I do not feel that the *Black Bay really fits the bill for a dress watch.*


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Chronopolis said:


> I probably don't have the requisite engineering knowledge to be sure, but it seems to me that
> the thinness that you want would go directly against the ruggedness you require.
> 
> Also, if such a watch existed, it would already be pretty well-known by now.
> ...


If you notice in my criteria, I intentionally left out thinness. That is because I am certainly open to a fairly thick watch if it can meet all my criteria.

To me, a dress watch is much more about aesthetics of the dial than it is about size. That is not to say it wouldn't be hard for a 44mm large watch to be dressy. But why not a dressy dial on a watch the size of the Explorer? That's a reasonable enough size in this day and age that no one would bat an eye.


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## Chronopolis (Apr 8, 2009)

Metlin said:


> If you notice in my criteria, I intentionally left out thinness. That is because I am certainly open to a fairly thick watch if it can meet all my criteria.


ALS Saxonia Thin --- is 5.9mm thick.
Since you mentioned it as an exemplar, you might as well insist on it to the end. ;-)


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## P. Ortiz (Dec 31, 2013)

I like the idea of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 that a couple of others have already mentioned. Solid, waterproof, simple and elegant. Or, if you want to stray a bit from dressy, there's the Tudor Black Bay 36.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Chronopolis said:


> ALS Saxonia Thin --- is 5.9mm thick.
> Since you mentioned it as an exemplar, you might as well insist on it to the end. ;-)


Fair enough.

Don't get me wrong - thinness is an attractive trait in watches and women. But I am open to the idea of a voluptuous watch that can tell time in seven positions.


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

Metlin said:


> Unfortunately, yes. My ideal watch would be something incredibly dressy - like the Saxonia Thin or the Credor pictured above - but can take a beating.


From my point of view (obviously subjective), I think the Oyster Perpetual is very similarly dressy as the AT, and either way, it's certainly not "incredibly dressy". I do think it would work in about 98% of situations though.

I guess I'm curious why you consider your Datejust to be deficient for this discussion?


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## dave12b (Feb 10, 2014)

Perhaps you could track down a mint JLC Geophysic 1958 reissue. Sportier and tougher than most dress watches, dressier than most sport watches. 

If it's not dressy enough, there is the Geophysic true second version but I do not know if they are as tough as the original and only 50 meters of water resistance. Although 50 meters should be good enough for rescuing scantaly damsels in distress. 

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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

mak1277 said:


> From my point of view (obviously subjective), I think the Oyster Perpetual is very similarly dressy as the AT, and either way, it's certainly not "incredibly dressy". I do think it would work in about 98% of situations though.
> 
> I guess I'm curious why you consider your Datejust to be deficient for this discussion?


I think the Oyster Perpetual has a certain degree of sleekness that is missing in the AT. Plus, the patterned dial makes it unnecessarily busy, in my humble opinion.

I do own a Datejust and like it just fine. However, I was not aware of the Datejust being shock resistant? While both the OP and DJ have the "Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring", Rolex specifically mentions that the OP is equipped with "High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers".


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## hanshananigan (Apr 8, 2012)

Well, there is certainly no end to dressy quartz watches (with no seconds), sapphire, at least 50M WR, and likely shock resistance that rivals most mechanical movements.

However, I don't imagine many have screw-down crown (regardless of movement).

For example,


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## mumblypeg (Apr 14, 2017)

To me, the Omega AT comes closest to meeting all of your criteria....


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

Metlin said:


> I do own a Datejust and like it just fine. However, I was not aware of the Datejust being shock resistant? While both the OP and DJ have the "Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring", Rolex specifically mentions that the OP is equipped with "High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers".


Interesting re: extra shock absorption. The Rolex website doesn't even mention that on the Sub.


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## mumblypeg (Apr 14, 2017)

The Omega Deville is also nice, and meets most of your criteria.


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## whoischich (Sep 11, 2014)

You wouldn’t run a marathon in office shoes or try to turn a screw with a hammer, so why would you want to go mountain climbing or yachting in a dress watch? I appreciate that this is primarily a theoretical exercise, but there’s a reason why certain equipment exists. Other than durability, things like legibility, functionality etc also all are a factor.

Usually elegance and delicate-ness don’t combine with ruggedness. Good luck in the search though!


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

whoischich said:


> You wouldn't run a marathon in office shoes or try to turn a screw with a hammer, so why would you want to go mountain climbing or yachting in a dress watch? I appreciate that this is primarily a theoretical exercise, but there's a reason why certain equipment exists. Other than durability, things like legibility, functionality etc also all are a factor.


I would have completely agreed with you a few months ago. However, having subjected to my Rolex Explorer to some pretty brutal tests, I have come away rather impressed.

Yes, it is somewhat of a theoretical exercise. Nevertheless, I am interested in seeing if I could whittle wearable watches down to one.



whoischich said:


> Usually elegance and delicate-ness don't combine with ruggedness. Good luck in the search though!


Why do you say that?


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## nikbrown (Jun 28, 2013)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*

Omega AT 








Or
Sinn 556i









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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

I echo the suggestion of the Rolex OP 36 on leather. Not the 39, as 36 is a more traditional dress size, and the off-coloured pips on the 39 make it less dressy. Otherwise, Grand Seiko on leather, various models, whether mechanical or quartz; or the afore-mentioned Citizen. These are all rated to 10 ATM I believe? Excellent thread btw - this is the kind of watch I gravitate towards.


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## obomomomo (Nov 4, 2014)

Seiko SGEG97P1 fulfills all your stated requirements

Sapphire crystal, 100m WR.

Quartz movement means it's relatively thin and shock resistant compared to mechanical.
$120 means you can buy and keep several spare to replace any you break.


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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

Metlin said:


> Sorry, your image is too blurry to make out. Is this the watch you are talking about? Any idea how rugged it is? It's a pretty great looking watch, and I think it would look terrific in leather.


Yes, that's the one. I just tried it out yesterday - lovely watch, 3mm too big for my wrists.

100m WR and fairly thick - designed by Moser to be their active-wear sports watch. So it should be pretty rugged for most use cases I reckon.

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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

dave12b said:


> If it's not dressy enough, there is the Geophysic true second version but I do not know if they are as tough as the original and only 50 meters of water resistance. Although 50 meters should be good enough for rescuing scantaly damsels in distress.


Good suggestion. And JLC rates their 50m watches as being suitable for swimming, so that covers most situations.

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## whoischich (Sep 11, 2014)

Metlin said:


> Why do you say that?


I say it because an ultra slim mechanical piece on a delicate leather strap is never going to be as rugged as a watch designed to withstand the elements - whether it's shock, depth/pressure, physical abrasion or simply manhandling. The design brief is different, so the watch itself is different.

Does this mean you can't wear a dress watch scuba diving? Sure you can - there's even threads on how cheap £10 Casio watches were fine on 30m dives. But what you're looking at are statistical probabilities that the instrument on your wrist will survive or malfunction whether from water ingress, shock or whatever. And whilst your ultimate one watch may survive, it's an unnecessary risk. The question then is do you care if an expensive watch gets damaged (scratch/gouge etc) or even requires repairs from an activity which it wasn't designed for. If your income is such that you don't care about that possible cost, then more power to you. If you do care then it's wise to think about a tool that's right for the job instead.

As an aside, I think from a sheer appearance perspective, a pure dress watch would look very out of place in any sporting environment, even one as low key as a round of golf.


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## MergingCultures (Oct 22, 2017)

I think some one else mentioned Certina. Dressy and strong.


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## ZIPPER79 (Jan 23, 2008)

Personally, IMHO, you seem to worry too much about a "Dress watch Vs. the Rolex Explorer" The Explorer, to me, is a fantastic timepiece and would wear it to everywhere even a Black Tie event.
I don't care what correctness is but it's my choice and nobody else. I can't sympathize with people who think they have to do something because others pressure or goad into wearing or doing what they like or think. I choose, they don't!!!!!



Metlin said:


> Recently, there was a thread asking what your sweet spot was for the number of watches. As I wrote and reflected on my response, I came to the alarming discovery that I am indeed open to the idea of wearing just one watch. Now, I may own multiple, but I would be content wearing essentially the "one watch" for the conceivable near-future.
> 
> My experience in wearing my Rolex Explorer for all my adventures certainly contributed to where I am today. I hadn't ever really considered an automatic to be capable of withstanding the abuse that I would throw at it. But seeing the Explorer do well despite everything made me realize just how much I liked a mechanical that could take a beating. Plus, I rather like the fact that the watch would have a terrific history behind it.
> 
> ...


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## priamo (Sep 14, 2017)

38mm, sapphire. Miyota 9015. GADA.


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## marcusp23 (May 23, 2015)

Datejust 41


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## Urs Haenggi (Feb 17, 2015)

Metlin said:


> I think the universe created Sinn to taunt me.
> 
> In all seriousness, not sure how I feel about Sinn as a dress watch. Right now, the Rolex OP 39 seems to be a top contender. The blue and the gray dials both look good, although I am curious to see if they really look that dark in real life.


I'm a fan of the gray and I think it meets your criteria.


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## sticky (Apr 5, 2013)

This old goat could happily wear a diver for all occasions. IMO you have the perfect need for multiple watches.


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## Barry H (Oct 1, 2008)

Would have thought the Alpinist is the obvious answer: 200m WR, SDC, sapphire, etc., and is bloody gorgeous.


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## Drucifer (Aug 20, 2017)

mumblypeg said:


> To me, the Omega AT comes closest to meeting all of your criteria....


This is what I was thinking while reading the original post. But also, I'd be rocking that Explorer with confidence in my black tie get up.


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## MZhammer (Feb 27, 2009)

I know this was already suggested but do you honestly need to look any farther than the Oyster Perpetual? My personal pick for a true GADA would be the 36mm classic size, smooth bezel in grey dial as it does away with the pop of color from the 39mm options, is a classic midsize watch and will look killer on bracelet or strap. 
- Waterproof to 100m
- Bulletproof 3130 movement that is accurate to +2/-2 a day
- Amazing Rolex bracelet

https://www.rolex.com/watches/oyster-perpetual/m116000-0009.html

And these are the 39mm option


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

MZhammer said:


> I know this was already suggested but do you honestly need to look any farther than the Oyster Perpetual? My personal pick for a true GADA would be the 36mm classic size, smooth bezel in grey dial as it does away with the pop of color from the 39mm options, is a classic midsize watch and will look killer on bracelet or strap.
> - Waterproof to 100m
> - Bulletproof 3130 movement that is accurate to +2/-2 a day
> - Amazing Rolex bracelet
> ...


Agreed but I would go silver or blue Explorer dial, not grey.


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## osamu (Dec 17, 2013)

first one to come to my mind was also the H. Moser Pioneer in Steel:
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces Entry-Level Sports Watch in Steel | SJX Watches

Sadly, it's a bit big for a real dress watch, but I don't think it would look out of place in most dress situation.


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## osamu (Dec 17, 2013)

I think the Cartier Santos is also rated to 100m. I'm not sure about their other watches.


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## MZhammer (Feb 27, 2009)

Paulo 8135 said:


> Agreed but I would go silver or blue Explorer dial, not grey.


I'd prefer the blue Explorer dial too but Metlin specifically nixed the Explorer 1 for being too casual and I would guess a big part are the Arabic numerals so my next choice goes to the discreet grey stick dial.


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

MZhammer said:


> I'd prefer the blue Explorer dial too but Metlin specifically nixed the Explorer 1 for being too casual and I would guess a big part are the Arabic numerals so my next choice goes to the discreet grey stick dial.


Yeah, that's a point considering we're talking 'dress'. Just not hugely keen on grey dials personally, had a Longines Flagship, reminded me too much of Irish skies...


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## GlennO (Jan 3, 2010)

osamu said:


> I think the Cartier Santos is also rated to 100m. I'm not sure about their other watches.


Yes they are, great suggestion.


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## imaCoolRobot (Jan 1, 2014)

I use a Nomos Club but if theres any risk of physical impact, I put on the GShock.


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## Moonlighting (Aug 6, 2015)

Nomos Ahoi lineup. 200m water resistance and a nice mix of dressy and sporty (and looks great on a variety of straps IMO).


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## dantan (Dec 16, 2014)

Hi Metlin,
I would also love to find such a Watch. 

Most Watches are either a little more sporty or more dressy. 

Generally, Watches that are sportier are more rugged and more water-resistant. 

I have not found a Watch that I feel can completely do it all. 

I am happy to wear different Watches for different occasions, but if I do ever come across a Watch that can genuinely do all occasions perfectly well, I will be keen to own one.


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## piningforthefjords (May 15, 2016)

osamu said:


> I think the Cartier Santos is also rated to 100m. I'm not sure about their other watches.


That is a great suggestion. I've always been partial to the Carbon version. Tried it on a few months ago and was very tempted to get it.

They have an amazing clasp too... interesting mechanism, comfortable and very slim.


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## MediumRB (May 7, 2015)

Sinn 556 LE (no date, applied indices, gray dial).
Grand Seiko: take your pick of auto or quartz and as many features as your want because they are really versatile.
Rolex OP (I wore a DJ 36mm and nothing else through my 20s and 30s, doing 20s and 30s kinds of stuff, and it held up in all situations until the jubilee bracelet flexed a little too far).
Piaget Polo S: sporty, elegant, very nicely made.














As a WIS, I think you are on a bit of a fool's errand to go down to one watch for all occasions, especially as you highly value the "dress" factor.
I was a bit taken aback by the amazing versatility of my Sinn 556 LE; it really can work in most any situation I would find myself. But it really needs a partner or two to cover my entire life.


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## Urs Haenggi (Feb 17, 2015)

MediumRB said:


> As a WIS, I think you are on a bit of a fool's errand to go down to one watch for all occasions, especially as you highly value the "dress" factor.
> I was a bit taken aback by the amazing versatility of my Sinn 556 LE; it really can work in most any situation I would find myself. But it really needs a partner or two to cover my entire life.


Well said. Love my 556 LE, but I'm not wearing it on open water dives, catching my son (and myself) at the rock gym, or even doing yard work. I know it can take it, but I like it looking pristine for work and casual going out. Even after buying and flipping a dozen higher end divers, I have a used SKX013 on order that will accompany me on dives and any heavy lifting.

Life is too short for just one watch.


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## Dandydude (Nov 9, 2015)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



nikbrown said:


> Omega AT
> P
> Or
> Sinn 556i
> ...


I would have also suggested the Aqua Terra but the OP specifically ruled it out. Fine watch that fits the description in my estimation.
Though it may not have quite the Water Resistance you are seeking you may still consider a Master Collection


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## omeglycine (Jan 21, 2011)

I agree with a number of the suggestions put forth, including the OP and Cartier Santos.

I don't know if I've seen a truly dressy watch with a robust movement and sufficient water resistance yet, so I will put forth a less expensive (relative) option: Sinn 1736









36mm and 9mm thick, 100M water resistance. ETA 2892. Meets the same Shock resistance standards as many of their tool watches. Under $2K new.


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## dantan (Dec 16, 2014)

Very nice!

If it were half the price, I would seriously consider adding one to my collection.



osamu said:


> first one to come to my mind was also the H. Moser Pioneer in Steel:
> H. Moser & Cie. Introduces Entry-Level Sports Watch in Steel | SJX Watches
> 
> Sadly, it's a bit big for a real dress watch, but I don't think it would look out of place in most dress situation.


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## Hayseed Brown (Mar 2, 2013)

I think a nice chameleon watch is the Rolex Cellini. 39mm, can dress it up or down, plain enough but interesting enough at the same time, 50m water resistance (I wouldn't think you'd need further WR on a leather-strapped watch), robust movement, etc. Classy watch that I never really considered until recently.

The 36mm OP works as well for GADA, and the 39mm is a fine choice too, if a bit bolder with the size and colored pips.


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## osamu (Dec 17, 2013)

omeglycine said:


> I agree with a number of the suggestions put forth, including the OP and Cartier Santos.
> 
> I don't know if I've seen a truly dressy watch with a robust movement and sufficient water resistance yet, so I will put forth a less expensive (relative) option: Sinn 1736
> 
> ...


Wow don't think I've seen this one. Very nice looking and definitely leans more dress than the other Sinn recommendations


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## pdsf (Oct 8, 2014)

Moonlighting said:


> Nomos Ahoi lineup. 200m water resistance and a nice mix of dressy and sporty (and looks great on a variety of straps IMO).


Yes, I was going to suggest. Ahoi neomatik Atlantik. 36mm diameter but wears much bigger, like 38mm. 200m WR. I wear it while lap swimming all the time. Nomos has great leather straps to go with it, too.


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## watchRus (Feb 13, 2012)

Metlin deserves his own sub forum, "GADA" section.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

mumblypeg said:


> The Omega Deville is also nice, and meets most of your criteria.
> View attachment 12724127


It's a good looking watch; just don't find it as clean as, say, the Saxonia.


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## Igorek (Jul 10, 2009)

...........


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



nikbrown said:


> Omega AT
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The Seamaster is a great looking watch, but I feel it's still quite sporty looking. I really wish contemporary Seamasters came with plain white dials without the second markers and date, like one of the vintage models I own.

To be honest, the Sinn has never called out to me. It looks quite... average?


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Paulo 8135 said:


> I echo the suggestion of the Rolex OP 36 on leather. Not the 39, as 36 is a more traditional dress size, and the off-coloured pips on the 39 make it less dressy. Otherwise, Grand Seiko on leather, various models, whether mechanical or quartz; or the afore-mentioned Citizen. These are all rated to 10 ATM I believe? Excellent thread btw - this is the kind of watch I gravitate towards.


36 is way too small. 39 would be a reasonable size.

GS is a good recommendation, but not sure how much shock and water resistance GS can take?


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## Palmettoman (Apr 6, 2013)

I may be laughed out of the thread, but why not a 14060 sub? Classic and simple. Dressy and casual. After all, Bond did it...







(not my pic)


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## BigSeikoFan (Feb 15, 2010)

I may have missed it but I'm not sure how a watch that comes on a leather strap is suitable for all the water sports you've listed. Yeah, you can replace the straps as needed, but still...


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

whoischich said:


> I say it because an ultra slim mechanical piece on a delicate leather strap is never going to be as rugged as a watch designed to withstand the elements - whether it's shock, depth/pressure, physical abrasion or simply manhandling. The design brief is different, so the watch itself is different.


As I mention elsewhere, I think that's because watch manufacturers have created an artificial dichotomy between the sports looking watches and dress watches.

Our grandfathers wore one watch, and it took a beating. For some reason, we take pride in making flimsy watches. Why not make a slightly larger watch that is dressy and can take a beating?



whoischich said:


> Does this mean you can't wear a dress watch scuba diving? Sure you can - there's even threads on how cheap £10 Casio watches were fine on 30m dives. But what you're looking at are statistical probabilities that the instrument on your wrist will survive or malfunction whether from water ingress, shock or whatever. And whilst your ultimate one watch may survive, it's an unnecessary risk. The question then is do you care if an expensive watch gets damaged (scratch/gouge etc) or even requires repairs from an activity which it wasn't designed for. If your income is such that you don't care about that possible cost, then more power to you. If you do care then it's wise to think about a tool that's right for the job instead.


But that's missing the point. The point isn't to wear a dress watch that isn't made for its purpose but rather find a dress watch that can take a beating.

Your argument makes it sound like I am about to buy a Lange Saxonia and wear it scuba diving, when in fact I am looking to buy something that looks like a Lange Saxonia but can really take a beating.



whoischich said:


> As an aside, I think from a sheer appearance perspective, a pure dress watch would look very out of place in any sporting environment, even one as low key as a round of golf.


I think a dress watch on a NATO can look quite appropriate in an athletic environment.


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## BigSeikoFan (Feb 15, 2010)

Not sure about shock resistance, but this baby has at least 50m WR and looks pretty dressy to me. A bit thick but if that's not a problem...


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## piningforthefjords (May 15, 2016)

Hm. I was debating about whether to add this to the list of suggestions, but what the hell...

How about the Zenith Captain Moonphase? 50m water resistance, but unsure about shock resistance etc. This is a long-time favourite of mine, but haven't yet committed to getting one.

The previous version has a guilloche (I think) dial.


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## BigSeikoFan (Feb 15, 2010)

Metlin said:


> Don't get me wrong - thinness is an attractive trait in watches and women. But I am open to the idea of a voluptuous watch that can tell time in *seven positions.*


This, too, is an attractive trait in women.


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

Metlin said:


> 36 is way too small. 39 would be a reasonable size.
> 
> GS is a good recommendation, but not sure how much shock and water resistance GS can take?


You have a point there, given what they did with the Explorer I. I would actually really like to see an OP 39 missing the off-coloured pips.

GS can be 100m. I think this one is close to perfect: https://www.jurawatches.co.uk/colle...es/products/grand-seiko-watch-quartz-sbgv205#

40mm.


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

could maybe do with something at the bottom of the dial, unsure yet whether i would prefer it with or without.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

dave12b said:


> Perhaps you could track down a mint JLC Geophysic 1958 reissue. Sportier and tougher than most dress watches, dressier than most sport watches.
> 
> If it's not dressy enough, there is the Geophysic true second version but I do not know if they are as tough as the original and only 50 meters of water resistance. Although 50 meters should be good enough for rescuing scantaly damsels in distress.





vkalia said:


> Good suggestion. And JLC rates their 50m watches as being suitable for swimming, so that covers most situations.


I'll be honest - the JLC Geophysic is a decent looking watch, but the hands could be a lot more graceful and the markers fewer. It's always been an "almost but not quite" watch for me.



hanshananigan said:


> Well, there is certainly no end to dressy quartz watches (with no seconds), sapphire, at least 50M WR, and likely shock resistance that rivals most mechanical movements.
> 
> However, I don't imagine many have screw-down crown (regardless of movement).
> 
> For example,





obomomomo said:


> Seiko SGEG97P1 fulfills all your stated requirements
> 
> Sapphire crystal, 100m WR.
> 
> ...


Honestly, that's where my head is at right now. A good FC that's dressy and can take a beating would be perfect. Maybe something that's a HEQ.

At this moment, I am torn between the Rolex OP and one of the nicer quartz offerings.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

vkalia said:


> Yes, that's the one. I just tried it out yesterday - lovely watch, 3mm too big for my wrists.
> 
> 100m WR and fairly thick - designed by Moser to be their active-wear sports watch. So it should be pretty rugged for most use cases I reckon.


So now I am curious to see what this looks like in person!


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

MergingCultures said:


> I think some one else mentioned Certina. Dressy and strong.


Do you have an example of a model you have in mind?


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

ZIPPER79 said:


> Personally, IMHO, you seem to worry too much about a "Dress watch Vs. the Rolex Explorer" The Explorer, to me, is a fantastic timepiece and would wear it to everywhere even a Black Tie event.
> I don't care what correctness is but it's my choice and nobody else. I can't sympathize with people who think they have to do something because others pressure or goad into wearing or doing what they like or think. I choose, they don't!!!!!


I don't disagree with you at all. Merely that I personally feel that the Explorer looks completely out of place at a black tie event. I wore one to see how it felt, and to *me*, it felt at odds.

There are some days when I felt that the Explorer felt acceptable in a suit, but I'd be lying if I ever really felt as comfortable with the Explorer on my wrists as I did with a real dress watch.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

priamo said:


> 38mm, sapphire. Miyota 9015. GADA.


Sorry, I do not think that is a dress watch at all.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

marcusp23 said:


> Datejust 41
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a DJ and I think a new DJ would be a contender if it had the same shock absorption creds as the OP.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Urs Haenggi said:


> I'm a fan of the gray and I think it meets your criteria.
> 
> View attachment 12724449
> View attachment 12724451


That's a surprisingly good looking watch - not what I would have expected at all!


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## MergingCultures (Oct 22, 2017)

Metlin said:


> Do you have an example of a model you have in mind?


https://www.certina.com/watch/ds-1-powermatic-80/C0298071603101

https://www.certina.com/watch/ds-podium-powermatic-80/C0344071603701

The ds-1 is 40mm which might be too big, while the podium is smaller 38mm, but has numerals.

They have shock resistance (DS = Double Security), and are 100m water resistant.

They have different variations to choose from and are reasonably priced.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

sticky said:


> This old goat could happily wear a diver for all occasions. IMO you have the perfect need for multiple watches.





Urs Haenggi said:


> Well said. Love my 556 LE, but I'm not wearing it on open water dives, catching my son (and myself) at the rock gym, or even doing yard work. I know it can take it, but I like it looking pristine for work and casual going out. Even after buying and flipping a dozen higher end divers, I have a used SKX013 on order that will accompany me on dives and any heavy lifting.
> 
> Life is too short for just one watch.


I just want to be clear here: it is not that I will not own multiple watches. I am not magically giving away all my watches, or stop buying new ones.

I am in a good place in my collection, but I do feel that I need a dress watch that I can consistently wear both on my adventures and for formal occasions. And I really am enjoying the idea of having just the one watch, and having the rest in my collection to be occasionally worn.

And if I am wearing a dress watch that's scratched from climbs and dives to the board room, then it's even better. I see that as a mark of pride.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Barry H said:


> Would have thought the Alpinist is the obvious answer: 200m WR, SDC, sapphire, etc., and is bloody gorgeous.
> 
> View attachment 12724453


That's not a bad suggestion. Dial color and numerals give me pause, but I think it's a close contender.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Drucifer said:


> This is what I was thinking while reading the original post. But also, I'd be rocking that Explorer with confidence in my black tie get up.


That's exactly what I did! Except that I didn't feel quite as posh as I usually do rocking a dress watch. :-(


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## priamo (Sep 14, 2017)

redundant


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

MZhammer said:


> I know this was already suggested but do you honestly need to look any farther than the Oyster Perpetual? My personal pick for a true GADA would be the 36mm classic size, smooth bezel in grey dial as it does away with the pop of color from the 39mm options, is a classic midsize watch and will look killer on bracelet or strap.
> - Waterproof to 100m
> - Bulletproof 3130 movement that is accurate to +2/-2 a day
> - Amazing Rolex bracelet
> ...





Paulo 8135 said:


> Agreed but I would go silver or blue Explorer dial, not grey.





MZhammer said:


> I'd prefer the blue Explorer dial too but Metlin specifically nixed the Explorer 1 for being too casual and I would guess a big part are the Arabic numerals so my next choice goes to the discreet grey stick dial.





Paulo 8135 said:


> Yeah, that's a point considering we're talking 'dress'. Just not hugely keen on grey dials personally, had a Longines Flagship, reminded me too much of Irish skies...


I agree with you guys. And Mr. Hammer is exactly right - I much prefer a watch without any digits - and the only exceptions I can see are either tasteful Roman numerals, or perhaps the FP Journe. I think the gray looks quite discreet and could be dashing on a dark brown leather strap or a NATO.


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## Chronopolis (Apr 8, 2009)

I think the gold marker SINN comes closest so far.
But how about this?
Since you like your Explorer so much, and it does everything you are looking for a watch to do, it seems the best solution would be to "dressify" the Explorer.

How? Modify it. Go bespoke. (Talking theory only.)
Blast the numbers off the bezel, remove the cyclops, replace the dial and hands with something that look vaguely (or even specifically) Saxonian.

I myself would look into this option if I were looking for this sort of GADA watch as you are.



Metlin said:


> I just want to be clear here: it is not that I will not own multiple watches. I am not magically giving away all my watches, or stop buying new ones.
> 
> I am in a good place in my collection, but I do feel that I need a dress watch that I can consistently wear both on my adventures and for formal occasions. And I really am enjoying the idea of having just the one watch, and having the rest in my collection to be occasionally worn.
> 
> And if I am wearing a dress watch that's scratched from climbs and dives to the board room, then it's even better. I see that as a mark of pride.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

osamu said:


> I think the Cartier Santos is also rated to 100m. I'm not sure about their other watches.





GlennO said:


> Yes they are, great suggestion.





piningforthefjords said:


> That is a great suggestion. I've always been partial to the Carbon version. Tried it on a few months ago and was very tempted to get it.
> 
> They have an amazing clasp too... interesting mechanism, comfortable and very slim.
> 
> View attachment 12725125


Oh there's a new one. And they're terrific dress watches to boot. I like it!

Do you know if the Cartier Santos have decent shock absorption?


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

Metlin said:


> To be honest, that's pretty much where I am at right now. My circulation mostly consists of Explorer II, B&M Flyback, FC Moonphase, and DJ.
> 
> All other watches get very little wear. Now, I can see myself consolidating this into maybe a rugged chronograph and a dress watch -- say, Daytona and Saxonia Thin.
> 
> ...


I've recently come to terms with the fact that I will always have a couple of watches that I will almost never wear. On any given day, there's a 90% chance I'll be wearing my Submariner or Speedmaster. My Monaco LE has, for most of its life, only been a watch for special occasions. My big PVD Chase-Durer? There's sentimental value there and it's not worth enough to sell. So what's the point of getting rid of it just to get rid of it? I love my Pan Europ, and it's chock full of sentimental value (I wore it to my best friend's wedding where I was his best man, it endured my first European vacation, it survived a bachelor party in Amsterdam), and even though it's a bit big for me now, it's a nice watch to wear now and then, but compared to the finer pieces in my collection, it's never going to be in contention for regular wear. But it means too much to me to let go.

As for the watch you want, concessions would have to be made. Dress watches almost by definition can't be rugged. Take the Aqua Terra you mentioned. Or the Oyster Perpetual. Or the Datejust. Or something I just learned existed and I feel you absolutely must buy, the 39mm Pearlmaster (pictured below). They're not dress watches; they're part of Rolex's sport watch collection. The inclusion of things like water resistance or seconds/minutes markers push watches out of the dress watch category into sport watches (according to the purists' explanations I've read on here). You can dress them up with a leather strap, but they're still a sport watch.

I think you just need to get more comfortable with a sports watch and a suit (or even, gasp, a tuxedo; though even I can't say with certainty I'd wear a watch on a bracelet with a tuxedo) and just come to terms with the fact you may not be invited back to some of your regatta club's functions. :-d

EDIT: Forgot the picture. Here is the answer to all your questions:


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

Chronopolis said:


> I think the gold marker SINN comes closest so far.
> But how about this?
> Since you like your Explorer so much, and it does everything you are looking for a watch to do, it seems the best solution would be to "dressify" the Explorer.
> 
> ...


It has indeed crossed my mind. And if I am to go for a real GADA watch, I also have contemplated approaching a watchmaker (say, RGM or FP Journe) and getting an once-in-a-lifetime watch made.


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

Metlin said:


> I think the universe created Sinn to taunt me.
> 
> In all seriousness, not sure how I feel about Sinn as a dress watch. Right now, the Rolex OP 39 seems to be a top contender. The blue and the gray dials both look good, although I am curious to see if they really look that dark in real life.


Other than the Armand Nicolet-esque epitaph on the dial, this is gorgeous. I'd call it a dress watch substitute.


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

Metlin said:


> But for some reason, there seems to be this artificial dichotomy between dress and tool watches that seems entirely conjured up.


Isn't the artificial dichotomy not between the watches themselves but the situations in which we deem them appropriate? Other than the actual, physical capability, what makes a Saxonia less appropriate to wear with plimsolls and chinos than a Sinn 556 or Rolex Explorer? What makes a Rolex Explorer II inappropriate with a dinner jacket?

That, my friend, is where you'll find your artificiality.


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## priamo (Sep 14, 2017)

with Technotime TT 718


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

Paulo 8135 said:


> Agreed but I would go silver or blue Explorer dial, not grey.


The blue Explorer dial is only on the 36mm, unfortunately; else I'd be saving up for one right now.


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

Raza said:


> The blue Explorer dial is only on the 36mm, unfortunately; else I'd be saving up for one right now.


I'm pretty sure with time Rolex will kill the off-coloured pips on the OP 39 and offer the Explorer dial on the OP 39.


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

Paulo 8135 said:


> I'm pretty sure with time Rolex will kill the off-coloured pips on the OP 39 and offer the Explorer dial on the OP 39.


Sigh. I guess I'll start saving up, then.


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

Raza said:


> Sigh. I guess I'll start saving up, then.


haha. i would totally love one too!


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## piningforthefjords (May 15, 2016)

Metlin said:


> Oh there's a new one. And they're terrific dress watches to boot. I like it!
> 
> Do you know if the Cartier Santos have decent shock absorption?


No idea about shock absorption/resistance. Someone more knowledgeable than me will chip in, I'm sure. FWIW the older models had an ETA movement in them, while Cartier has gone in-house with the newer models.

I can say that the watch itself wears very comfortably. Due to the curved lugs and case, it hugs the wrist and it felt like I was wearing a fitted bracelet rather than a watch.

Not sure where in Oz you are, but the Melbourne Cartier store on Collins St has (had?) the full range of Santos models available to try on.


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## cayabo (Jan 9, 2016)

Skagen??? 5mm thick, titanium, 50m water resistant, 40mm, looks a bit like a Saxonia???









I kid....

Actually, Chrono's idea is interesting.

Get a black Explorer II and swap the hour indices and hands onto your white dialed version.
Have the red of the GMT hand painted medium gray (and the black portion of the hands).
Remove the black from the lettering of the bezel and then polish it bright.

It would still be big and bold, but dressier - the stark graphic design of contrasting black-white would be gone along with your "odd board-room feelings".


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## Rusty427 (Jan 3, 2009)

A JLC Master Controle might work as a dressy gada...?


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## il Pirati (Dec 7, 2014)

First thought: Anyone I've ever met who is/was a "one watch" guy was comfortable wearing the one watch in situations that many of us WUS would deem inappropriate. Sub in a tux? No problem for the "one watch" guy. 5atm small gold dressy watch hunting? No problem for the "one watch" guy. 
Second thought: I think a lot of watches are probably much more resilient to shock than most of us give them credit for. Of course, there's always the "I dropped it 3 inches and the marker fell off" stories, but by and large, even fairly sleek watches will probably take punishment better than flesh and bone.

Suggestions (sorry, no pics):
1) Nomos Ahoi - Dressy as anything I'd ever need, and a solid, robust watch. You don't like numerals, so maybe not for you.
2) IWC Portuguese - It was made for yacht racing, and is beautiful. Again, numerals, and chrono, so maybe not what you'd think of as a dress watch
3) Grand Seiko - Can be pretty dressy. And even the most "delicate" Seikos are tough MFers. If I wanted a true dress watch that could be on my wrist on an Everest Accent, I'd wear a Grand Seiko. Or a Rolex OP, since it knows the way already.


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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

I have the ADLC Santos on an aftermarket rubber strap and think it is a spectacular watch. 

I've recently finished a 2 week trip where it was my only watch - went hiking with it, wore it for a dinner at Nobu, and everything in between.

That said, I don't think it meets your definition of a dress watch (atleast not the XL ADLC version, which is decidedly sporty). The M size, maybe?

But you will have to check the shock resistance on it. 



Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk


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## whoischich (Sep 11, 2014)

Metlin said:


> Our grandfathers wore one watch, and it took a beating. For some reason, we take pride in making flimsy watches. Why not make a slightly larger watch that is dressy and can take a beating?


True, but they also drove cars which were unreliable and wore oiled jackets to keep out the rain. I'd rather drive an electric supercar and wear Goretex to stay dry. Technology evolves and we create equipment that's designed for the purpose at hand.

I won't belabour my point any further apart to say that just because you can do something (ie. wear a dress watch mountaineering) doesn't mean it makes sense to do so. But hey, you pays the money, you wears the watch!


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

I think the VC overseas should be considered here too. WR of 150 meters, comes with bracelet , rubber and leather straps and looks more dressy than an oyster perpetual or aqua terra.

Edit to add pics because they're more fun


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## Hayseed Brown (Mar 2, 2013)

This could provide some support for the fact that GADA watches exist:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-jack-nicklaus


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## mkws (May 11, 2014)

From contemporary watches, I guess the simplest of Rolexes would fit the criteria, so would the Omega AT. Both were previously mentioned, though.

Back in the day, I guess your best bet would have been the Eterna Kon-Tiki (obviously not the diver models), and the original Certina DS. Eterna's waterproof cases were beyond excellent, and the DS was nothing short of bulletproof. Although an Enicar in an EPSA case would likely have been a good choice all the same.


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## Berty234 (Aug 1, 2016)

mak1277 said:


> I think the VC overseas should be considered here too. WR of 150 meters, comes with bracelet , rubber and leather straps and looks more dressy than an oyster perpetual or aqua terra.
> 
> Edit to add pics because they're more fun
> 
> View attachment 12726377


Nailed it


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## Ron521 (Feb 20, 2014)

Tanjecterly said:


> Tudor Black Bay 36 or 41 seems to fit your bill. Dressy and GADA.


This is the watch that another member claimed to drop three INCHES to his desktop, and indices fell off the dial...


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## TJ Boogie (May 14, 2015)

Oh how I wish the Damasko 105 were 38-40mm. That would kind of be _my _ultimate GADA dress watch. At 42mm I'm afraid it's far too large even for my 8" wrists.


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## Jim44 (Jul 1, 2017)

Just my opinion but I don't believe that a true GADA watch exists. Just like your watch felt too sporty for a dressy occasion, a dress watch would feel too dressy to me on casual occasions, at the beach, camping, at the gym etc. Just like shoes- there is a reason why I have dress shoes, more casual shoes, sneakers etc. I'm not wearing oxfords to go hiking, and I'm not wearing hiking boots to a funeral (depending on who's funeral it is I guess ) And I wouldn't wear a pair of casual loafers to either, let alone both of these.

Again maybe it's just me but I am also just not attracted to the idea of wearing the same watch all the time.

Of course if that does have an appeal to you there's nothing wrong with that, more power to you!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

Berty234 said:


> Nailed it


Not really - thats a sports watch. While it would meet the use case, it doesnt meet the requirements of the OP, which was specifically a Dress Watch.


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

vkalia said:


> Not really - thats a sports watch. While it would meet the use case, it doesnt meet the requirements of the OP, which was specifically a Dress Watch.


If the Oyster Perpetual is dressy enough, then surely the Overseas is dressy enough.


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

Jim44 said:


> Just my opinion but I don't believe that a true GADA watch exists. Just like your watch felt too sporty for a dressy occasion, a dress watch would feel too dressy to me on casual occasions, at the beach, camping, at the gym etc. Just like shoes- there is a reason why I have dress shoes, more casual shoes, sneakers etc. I'm not wearing oxfords to go hiking, and I'm not wearing hiking boots to a funeral (depending on who's funeral it is I guess ) And I wouldn't wear a pair of casual loafers to either, let alone both of these.


You wouldn't wear a Rolex Explorer camping? Or you don't think it's dressy enough to wear with a suit? (I know Metlin doesn't like this one specifically, but it's a philosophical question...feel free to insert a different watch of your choosing to answer).


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## omeglycine (Jan 21, 2011)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



mak1277 said:


> If the Oyster Perpetual is dressy enough, then surely the Overseas is dressy enough.


I agree. Either both or neither are.

That's why my Sinn 1736 suggestion was so good


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## mleok (Feb 16, 2010)

mak1277 said:


> Interesting re: extra shock absorption. The Rolex website doesn't even mention that on the Sub.


I don't think the 3130/3135 calibres feature the newer Paraflex shock absorbers.


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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

mak1277 said:


> If the Oyster Perpetual is dressy enough, then surely the Overseas is dressy enough.


Depends on each person, I suppose.

I find the smaller OPs to be a lot more under-stated than the big and shiny Overseas.


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

vkalia said:


> Depends on each person, I suppose.
> 
> I find the smaller OPs to be a lot more under-stated than the big and shiny Overseas.


I agreed the OP is more understated, and I love it, but I think the VC is just one notch better in terms of being refined/classy.

I'll admit that I'm pretty much disregarding the 36mm OPs also and only comparing with the 39mm ones.


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## Almanon (Nov 12, 2017)

So you want to go down this rabbit hole? You know that there will be a thousand different suggestions because all this is in the eye of the beholder. I wear my Speedmaster on a leather strap and it goes everywhere with me. If it passed all the tests NASA put it through when watches like Rolex could not, and if it went to the moon numerous times and splashed down in the ocean, that is good enough for me. 

There have been a number of very good suggestions made here, but it is your eye they need to fit. As for me, if I were in your shoes I would seriously consider the Sinn, Damasko, Tudor, and the Rolex DJ 41. Not all are my cup of tea, and they don't have every little thing you want them to have, but they will do the job you want them to do nicely. As for me, the next time you see me in shorts and a T shirt, or in a tuxedo, I will be wearing my Speedy.


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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

mak1277 said:


> I agreed the OP is more understated, and I love it, but I think the VC is just one notch better in terms of being refined/classy.


No disagreements there - it really is a gorgeous watch. I realize this is a bit of an intellectual exercise by the OP, but in the real world, I'd get the VC over the OP any day of the week.


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## mleok (Feb 16, 2010)

mak1277 said:


> I think the VC overseas should be considered here too. WR of 150 meters, comes with bracelet , rubber and leather straps and looks more dressy than an oyster perpetual or aqua terra.
> 
> Edit to add pics because they're more fun
> 
> View attachment 12726377


A Vacheron Constantin Overseas is what I would call a dressy sports watch, whereas Metlin appears to be looking for a dress watch with water and shock resistance.


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## Jim44 (Jul 1, 2017)

mak1277 said:


> You wouldn't wear a Rolex Explorer camping? Or you don't think it's dressy enough to wear with a suit? (I know Metlin doesn't like this one specifically, but it's a philosophical question...feel free to insert a different watch of your choosing to answer).


I probably wouldn't wear the Explorer camping, but that's just personal taste. I think it's a perfectly defensible choice though, and I wouldn't think twice if I saw someone else do so. Actually, to be more precise, I might wear one camping on occasion, but 9 times out of 10 I would prefer something more casual.

There is a functional component too. For example, for a formal event I would choose a simpler watch with no date, and probably (for fun) something vintage. That would not work for me for a daily piece, because I am too scattered to remember what the date is, and it wouldn't work for camping because vintage and waterproof do not generally go together.

Also I like a GMT for when I am traveling or my wife is traveling, because simple math to calculate time differences is also apparently too much work for me 

Finally, there are times when I want a watch to draw as little attention as possible, and if I'm honest with myself (I know we're not supposed to admit this) there are times when I like to wear something that is perhaps a little more noticeable.

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## BarracksSi (Feb 13, 2013)

Metlin said:


> I have a DJ and I think a new DJ would be a contender if it had the same shock absorption creds as the OP.


Is there a modern wristwatch that doesn't have shock protection?

I was recently granted my great-great-grandfather's Hamilton pocketwatch, and now I know what it looks like when the balance wheel jewel isn't mounted with a shock-resistant spring. All of my other mechanicals have some amount of shock protection, including my dad's cal.550 Omega.

Tangent -- We're also talking about how our elders wore one watch for everything. But I also remember when the G-Shock came out, and us regular people went, "Wow! You can drop it, kick it, wear it into the ocean, and it'll never break? That's _awesome!"_ There just isn't a better wristwatch-as-timekeeping-device out there. I could make a point that because the G is so rugged, it takes some of the load off of nicer, dressier watches.


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

mleok said:


> A Vacheron Constantin Overseas is what I would call a dressy sports watch, whereas Metlin appears to be looking for a dress watch with water and shock resistance.


I don't disagree. But Metlin also said the OP was a viable option, and this is (IMO) dressier than that, so I think that while it's not EXACTLY what he's looking for, it's the closest thing put forth in this discussion.


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

mak1277 said:


> I don't disagree. But Metlin also said the OP was a viable option, and this is (IMO) dressier than that, so I think that while it's not EXACTLY what he's looking for, it's the closest thing put forth in this discussion.


It's a very nice watch. But I don't find it very...minimalist.


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

I mean like the bezel and the bracelet are pretty busy. But that's just my personal taste.


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## Maiden (Sep 19, 2014)

36mm day date. Mines been swimming hot tubbing hunting, fishing and at formal events. Go white gold if yellow is too much for you or go with a 36mm datejust. Done:


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## schieper (Jun 24, 2010)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*

For me the main issue would be the wrist band. No diving, swimming, showering, sailing in leather. It gets all smelly and uncomfortable to wear. And a nato is no way dress watch. So you need metal bracelet or rubber. Now i have not seen a dress watch that looks awesome on a rubber, expanding strap. Than any none bezeled watch on bracelet will do. Up to your taste 

My grandfather did not wear only 1 watch. He took his off when going to the beach or swimming.

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## gagnello (Nov 19, 2011)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*

I think your explorer could easy pull off any of those duties. If you were going to have one watch I don't think you could do much better than a trusty explorer honestly.

Edit: I didn't see it was an explorer II. An explorer I is what I meant.

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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



gagnello said:


> I think your explorer could easy pull off any of those duties. If you were going to have one watch I don't think you could do much better than a trusty explorer honestly.
> 
> Edit: I didn't see it was an explorer II. An explorer I is what I meant.


Lots of posts to respond to, but in my view, the Explorer is not nearly clean or dressy enough.


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## MediumRB (May 7, 2015)

Oh, oh, oh, I got it! Totally biased and I'm wearing mine now. Definitely a bracelet-clad dress watch that has some sporty credibility to it (although Piaget characterized it as a sports watch, but that is like saying you're going to actually wear your JLC Reverso to play polo). The white dial seems more formal.
Piaget Upstream:


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## Tanjecterly (Mar 13, 2013)

I think you want the Sinn 104, either black or white. It's dressy enough for me and has 200m WR. 

That said, I think in my time here on WUS, I've come to learn that there are no rules when it comes to dress watches anymore. People casually wear Omega Seamasters and Rolex Submariners to opera and fancy balls and no one blinks an eye. No one really pays attention to the old rule that dress watches should have no date. 

And having lume in the opera is a godsend because it gives you a timetable as to when the screeching torture will end.


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## Jim44 (Jul 1, 2017)

MediumRB said:


> Oh, oh, oh, I got it! Totally biased and I'm wearing mine now. Definitely a bracelet-clad dress watch that has some sporty credibility to it (although Piaget characterized it as a sports watch, but that is like saying you're going to actually wear your JLC Reverso to play polo). The white dial seems more formal.
> Piaget Upstream:
> View attachment 12727699


Wait, I'm confused, what else would you wear to play polo??? ? 

Nice watch!

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## run23 (Jul 12, 2009)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*

[edit- ok, didn't see posts where you addressed the Explorer before I posted, but I still think it may work]

Definitely interested to see if anything fits the bill. Nomos sort of comes close with the Ahoi, but the dial is still way too sporty to be a proper dress watch. Given that the Ahoi exists, doing a 100-300m wr watch with dress slimness should be doable. Get rid of the crown guards in the Ahoi and put an Orion face on it and you have a pretty tough dressier watch.

If it were me (not that you're asking) I'd get another 36mm Explorer 1, which could literally do anything other than maybe black tie (if you are being a stickler), and then buy a vintage piece for under $1,000 for black tie. My 1974 or so Omega DeVille on a croc strap looks great in dressier situations and has a ton of character, and I got it for next to nothing, relatively speaking. Or, just go super old school and go watchless with a Tux, although the 36mm Explorer on a nice black croc/alligator strap wouldn't offend too many people at a black tie event.

I love the idea of one watch to do it all and that's what I've been going for- despite that watch for me being a pre-ceramic Sub for now lately (but definitely not with a tux, unless I go full Bond with a beat up NATO ;-)), the 36mm Explorer is almost the perfect watch for the 'one'- I think even the 'only dress watches with suits' peanut gallery would grudgingly allow an Explorer with at least a suit.


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## tokeisukeii (Jan 19, 2017)

A lower end offering. Casio Oceanus meets alot of your requirements. 

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## MarkieB (Feb 25, 2017)

Cartier Santos, 100m WR and looks damn cool and dressy


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## Alpinoc (Dec 16, 2015)

Great thread Metlin. I'm coming a little late to the discussion but I'll add my two cents here.

Is a dream for many of us to consolidate a collection in just one GADA watch, but is very hard to find one that fill all spaces. I've always thought that my GADA watch is the PP Nautilus 5711, or the amazing 5990, but at the end it will fail on the "dress" section, so will need a second dress watch to fill this gap.

Now, following your rules, I believe I found one piece that, maybe, could tick all the boxes. Let's see:

1. Is a dress watch, even on precious metal.
2. Is water resistant to 50m, with screw down crown.
3. Paraflex shock absorbers, so is shock resistant.
4. 3132 Rolex movement inside, the same is using the Rolex Explorer 1, a watch made to resist hostile environments.

So, my pick is the Rolex Cellini time 50509 in 18k white gold. Cleaner dial that the other Cellini references, and in the white gold which, IMO, looks sportier.

Still can't convince myself 100% that this is the one but, if it has to be a dress piece and, at the same time, a rugged every day watch, then what's better than a Rolex.


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## Seikogi (May 2, 2016)

I am as the OP, also currently searching for a GADA. Read your Exp II journey and it seems that you attend quite often "fancy" events. My company is doing all sorts of trading and often our traders, clients wear no watch at all. No one in the "real" world cares.. at least in my exp. The concept for a GADA exists only in our heads I guess.

I currently wear this:








36mm | one of the most perfect date fonts | breguet style numerals | screw down crown with only 50m wr but it can handle swimming | WW2 style case | cal1120 = eta2892 = super reliable

Certainly not 100% perfect but comes close imo.

atm I cannot decide between those 2 for the next GADA















The 36mm black bay & explorer.
Rolex: + 3-6-9 dial | + history if that matters | + clean caseback | - bad bracelet | -too much text on the dial | 
Tudor: +better WR | better lume (the numerals on the exp are not lumed | +better bracelet | - crown sticks too much out |- "boring" movement


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## Seikogi (May 2, 2016)

Alpinoc said:


> Great thread Metlin. I'm coming a little late to the discussion but I'll add my two cents here.
> 
> Is a dream for many of us to consolidate a collection in just one GADA watch, but is very hard to find one that fill all spaces. I've always thought that my GADA watch is the PP Nautilus 5711, or the amazing 5990, but at the end it will fail on the "dress" section, so will need a second dress watch to fill this gap.
> 
> ...


I think it depends on your lifestyle. This Rolex does not have any lume and thus is a no go for a GADA imo. I would not be able to wear it at the beach or while playing tennis for aesthetic reasons.


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## Alpinoc (Dec 16, 2015)

Seikogi said:


> I think it depends on your lifestyle. This Rolex does not have any lume and thus is a no go for a GADA imo. I would not be able to wear it at the beach or while playing tennis for aesthetic reasons.


You're right, but it ticks all the boxes proposed by the OP. I believe a real dress piece doesn't have lume, and one of the requirements is that need to be a real dress watch.

Now, IMO, the ultimate GADA is the Nautilis 5711 as I said, and on a more accesible budget, I'll say is the Omega Aqua Terra (master co-axial or master chronometer) which, for me, it ticks most of the boxes.


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## hanshananigan (Apr 8, 2012)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



Metlin said:


> Lots of posts to respond to, but in my view, the Explorer is not nearly clean or dressy enough.


I don't understand how DJ would be a contender (if not for the shock absorption) if Explorer is not clean/dressy enough. Hands/dial aside, the 36mm cases seem very similar to me.

There's nothing particularly elegant about the DJ (Oyster?) case, IMO.

"Dressy" describes a category. Words like "elegant" and "classy" describes a watch.


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



hanshananigan said:


> I don't understand how DJ would be a contender (if not for the shock absorption) if Explorer is not clean/dressy enough. *Hands/dial aside*, the 36mm cases seem very similar to me.
> 
> There's nothing particularly elegant about the DJ (Oyster?) case, IMO.
> 
> "Dressy" describes a category. Words like "elegant" and "classy" describes a watch.


Hands and dial that you discount are important in terms of aesthetics.

We could get into semantics but suffice to say it you drew a spectrum between the Credor/ALS on one end and the Submariner on the other, you'll notice that certain design elements tend to be more sleek and dainty vs. thick and visible. Fatter hands, bigger indices, lots of markings etc vs. thinner hands, clean and minimalist markings etc.

How about this, then? I want a sleek, minimalist watch that's subtle and can take a beating. The exact aesthetic features resemble the Credor or the Saxonia.


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## Paulo 8135 (Mar 29, 2012)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



Metlin said:


> Hands and dial that you discount are important in terms of aesthetics.
> 
> We could get into semantics but suffice to say it you drew a spectrum between the Credor/ALS on one end and the Submariner on the other, you'll notice that certain design elements tend to be more sleek and dainty vs. thick and visible. Fatter hands, bigger indices, lots of markings etc vs. thinner hands, clean and minimalist markings etc.


Agreed. Also the cyclops!


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



Metlin said:


> Hands and dial that you discount are important in terms of aesthetics.
> 
> We could get into semantics but suffice to say it you drew a spectrum between the Credor/ALS on one end and the Submariner on the other, you'll notice that certain design elements tend to be more sleek and dainty vs. thick and visible. Fatter hands, bigger indices, lots of markings etc vs. thinner hands, clean and minimalist markings etc.
> 
> How about this, then? I want a sleek, minimalist watch that's subtle and can take a beating. The exact aesthetic features resemble the Credor or the Saxonia.


I think you might want a few dozen of these:
https://www.macys.com/shop/product/...n-leather-strap-watch-40mm-skw6237?ID=2494941


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## marcusp23 (May 23, 2015)

What about an ALS 1815?


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## hanshananigan (Apr 8, 2012)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true &quot;GADA&quot; watch*



Metlin said:


> Hands and dial that you discount are important in terms of aesthetics.
> 
> We could get into semantics but suffice to say it you drew a spectrum between the Credor/ALS on one end and the Submariner on the other, you'll notice that certain design elements tend to be more sleek and dainty vs. thick and visible. Fatter hands, bigger indices, lots of markings etc vs. thinner hands, clean and minimalist markings etc.
> 
> How about this, then? I want a sleek, minimalist watch that's subtle and can take a beating. The exact aesthetic features resemble the Credor or the Saxonia.


Not discounting hands/dial at all. What I'm suggesting is that the Oyster case, to me, is not sleek nor dainty, with its prominent lugs and bezel. The case, regardless of dial and hands, makes the watch more sporty than a Saxonia, IMO.

In contrast, the Credor Eichi II and Lange Saxonia cases are soft, sleek with small lugs, and perhaps dainty. They are picture frames for the dials. If you give them a more sporty dial and handset, say Explorer dial and "Mercedes" handset, it would not move the watch on a continuum toward sporty but would look mismatched to the case (again, IMO).


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



Raza said:


> I think you might want a few dozen of these:
> https://www.macys.com/shop/product/...n-leather-strap-watch-40mm-skw6237?ID=2494941


I honestly like the Skagen aesthetic.


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## SomeAssemblyRequired (Jan 19, 2015)

Alpinoc said:


> ...
> 1. Is a dress watch, even on precious metal.
> 2. Is water resistant to 50m, with screw down crown.
> 3. Paraflex shock absorbers, so is shock resistant.
> ...


An inspired recommendation -- one that shows how the objective criteria can be met to near-perfection, and that also demonstrates how utterly silly it would be to wear a white gold Cellini on leather as a GADA watch. Yet, as WIS, we can be convinced... ;-)


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## Jim44 (Jul 1, 2017)

SomeAssemblyRequired said:


> An inspired recommendation -- one that shows how the objective criteria can be met to near-perfection, and that also demonstrates how utterly silly it would be to wear a white gold Cellini on leather as a GADA watch. Yet, as WIS, we can be convinced... ;-)


It's a GADA watch in the sense that you "gada" get a second watch to wear to the beach.

Ok I know I know, just couldn't resist 

You one watch folks carry on...

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## RITZY_tm (Sep 19, 2016)

omeglycine said:


> I agree with a number of the suggestions put forth, including the OP and Cartier Santos.
> 
> I don't know if I've seen a truly dressy watch with a robust movement and sufficient water resistance yet, so I will put forth a less expensive (relative) option: Sinn 1736
> 
> ...


This is really lovely... i love this option.


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## craigmorin4555 (Mar 2, 2016)

Not sure how rugged but this is the one that fits the bill for me the Duneshore









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## Nom de Forum (Oct 17, 2012)

SomeAssemblyRequired said:


> An inspired recommendation -- one that shows how the objective criteria can be met to near-perfection, and that also demonstrates how utterly silly it would be to wear a white gold Cellini on leather as a GADA watch. Yet, as WIS, we can be convinced... ;-)





Jim44 said:


> It's a GADA watch in the sense that you "gada" get a second watch to wear to the beach.


Put the Cellini WG on a leather strap that is a Cuir Bouilli strap with a deployant buckle and it will do fine at the beach. For millennia Cuir Bouilli has proven itself to be durable under adverse conditions.


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## bbuckbbuck (Jun 16, 2014)

Globemaster
100m WR
Anti Magetic 15,000 Gauss
tungston bezel tough as literal nails 
independent adjust hour hand for easy time changes 
on a blue rubber strap works at the pool 
on a black croc strap works in a tux 








edit: 159 posts to suggest a globemaster? Come on WIS people!
skagen suggested before globemaster?


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## Rakumi (Nov 11, 2015)

I agree with the Rolex OP because you can just add a leather strap to dress it up or put the bracelet to go sporty but with its screw down crown, you should be able to even handle swimming with no issue. Overly dressy watch will have a higher risk for getting damaged as a one watch situation.


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## Rakumi (Nov 11, 2015)

Cant you put a leather strap on the explorer or even your Datejust?


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## dantan (Dec 16, 2014)

This looks lovely and has made me consider purchasing a leather strap like this one for my blue dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual:


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## Chronopolis (Apr 8, 2009)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



Metlin said:


> Hands and dial that you discount are important in terms of aesthetics.


I find it interesting that many of the (fine) suggestions here come from a peculiar misunderstanding of what really constitutes the "dress watch" *aesthetic*, as opposed to what is merely presentable when you have a bow tie on.

Since this topic of "semiology" has been done to death (and with much fun and edification too), I won't speak more of it, except to remind people how the VERY ARBITRARY (or seemingly so, but it's not) parameters that hedge in the definition of any given thing, or concept -- in this case, "dress" watch -- work.

Whatever it may or MUST have, a dress watch is defined as that which can show that the wearer is really not concerned 
with the passage of time, but is there to serve promptly, if discreetly, if the wearer might like the option of knowing.

It is this intangible quality of "otium" and even a whiff of "enniu" that is so lacking in all those watches that have been suggested here - all functionally and design-wise great - but are not "dress" watches, for being a bit "too eager" to let you know the time with a bit too much efficiency.


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## dantan (Dec 16, 2014)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*

These are a couple of examples of what I would consider Dress Watches:


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## Jtag24 (Dec 8, 2017)

All you need right here.


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



Metlin said:


> I honestly like the Skagen aesthetic.


I can see that. Minimalist, dressy; in fact, I think of Skagen a lot when I see high end dress watches. If you like that aesthetic, you like that aesthetic. Like me with the Movado Museum dial--I may not be in love with the watch's movement or whatever, but it's still a really nice looking watch, especially the dressier versions.

Actually, come to think of it, what about a Movado?


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

bbuckbbuck said:


> Globemaster
> 100m WR
> Anti Magetic 15,000 Gauss
> tungston bezel tough as literal nails
> ...


In my defense, I forgot the Globemaster existed. Good looking watch, though. How thin is it?


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

dantan said:


> This looks lovely and has made me consider purchasing a leather strap like this one for my blue dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual:


Blue on blue is always a tough match, but that looks pretty good. I think it would look killer on a light brown strap, though.


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## gagnello (Nov 19, 2011)

Not sure what crowd people roll with, but I've never been anywhere where people would have doubletakes if you were wearing a 36mm explorer 1 on a black strap or even the ever versatile superb oyster bracelet. They are iconic and timeless for a reason. I would argue an explorer 1 in 36mm can handle any situation flawlessly. I have a 34mm air king and I have worn it to weddings and going RTVing in the Arizona desert. It works anywhere. Explorer I is extremely similar in that regard.


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## handsoverfist (Feb 9, 2017)

Read the title and immediately thought Aqua Terra, but given that is disqualified, IWC's 2011 Ingenieur Laureus 1955 would have to be up there










I also love the Globemaster too, and wear one daily (not as a GADA though)


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## Davemcc (Apr 18, 2014)

I think I could meet all requirements with a Ball Watch.

Perhaps a Fireman Racer Classic. Shock resistant to 5,000G, 100m water resistance, screw down crown, anti-reflective sapphire, tritium tube lume, 42mm diameter, 11.5mm height.










I think the Fireman Victory might also fit the bill. Similar specs, 40mm










I am partial to the Engineer II Chronometer Red Label 43mm, although I am doubtful that I would ever own one.


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## BarracksSi (Feb 13, 2013)

Raza said:


> In my defense, I forgot the Globemaster existed. Good looking watch, though. How thin is it?


It feels thinner than an Aqua Terra, but it's no Skagen.

Could check out any of the DeVilles, too. A few share the Master Chronometer movement with the Globemaster.


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## Rakumi (Nov 11, 2015)

Jtag24 said:


> All you need right here.


 I know this is probably not the choice the OP was thinking of... but I have to agree with you simply because I love this watch. I have to ask though, have you had any issues with the crown or winding the movement?


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## Raza (Jul 21, 2010)

handsoverfist said:


> Read the title and immediately thought Aqua Terra, but given that is disqualified, IWC's 2011 Ingenieur Laureus 1955 would have to be up there
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm not usually a fan of IWC's dressy pieces, but that looks great.


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## kaos12 (Feb 24, 2014)

Barry H said:


> Would have thought the Alpinist is the obvious answer: 200m WR, SDC, sapphire, etc., and is bloody gorgeous.
> 
> View attachment 12724453


I was reading thru this thread waiting for this so obvious answer. There are very few watches that fit what the OP is desiring unless compromises are made. Otherwise, it will require at least two watches.

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## TheSanDiegan (Jul 8, 2008)

M - Check your PMs... I had been on the lookout for something that can fit with One Watch requirements at a price point that wouldn't leave me seething should it get jacked, lost, or dropped from a tree en route to a microbrewery in a forest.

Your requirements dovetail near-perfectly with Ball's philosophy of "Accuracy under Adverse Conditions." Shock resistant, water resistant, temperature resistant, and insulated against magnetic fields. And they do have a couple models that clean up rather nicely, such as the Trainmaster:









In fact, it was your Explorer adventures that provided the impetus for me to pull the trigger on my own version of the One Watch. However, my own personal adaptation of One Watch criteria required a bracelet, as fine hide straps just simply don't fare well under similarly adverse conditions (e.g., extreme humidity). A fine leather strap and the RH of my most frequently-visited destinations are analogous to pig and elephant DNA - they just don't splice.

Which unfortunately rather clearly defines a ceiling on the proximity to _true_ dress watch status.

Thus, should I ever find myself attending a black tie event abroad, as it would require I bring my tuxedo I guess I would also have to revert to my traditional standard of traveling with a 2nd watch to accompany it. However, while on travel I _do_ indeed attend events that require more formal evening attire, in the absence of a true black tie/white tie event, a bracelet-equipped compromise is, IMO, perfectly acceptable.


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## watchNoob (Dec 3, 2007)

My interpretation of the GADA question is a bit different in that it needs to be a watch that can be worn to a dress event without _looking _like it's been worn everyday. That means scratch resistance, which means ceramic which means Rado . . .








no question in my mind ;-P


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## Soundhunter (Dec 4, 2017)

Its not a dress watch..but it plays one on my wrist right now..

Orient Sentry


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## huwp (Nov 10, 2015)

I had a Citizen eco-drive dress watch that I realised I wasn't going to wear any more (I kinda liked it, but it was too small for me, and I'm the opposite of the OP in that I'd wear a g-shock to a black tie event before I'd wear a dress watch to go hiking).









It wasn't worth my time trying to sell it so I thought I would give it a quick torture test before disposing of it. I boiled it for ten minutes. Still ticking. Froze it solid. Still ticking. Hit the crystal with the point of a cleaver several times. Couldn't even see a mark. (Take that, mineral crystal haters!) I finally killed it by boiling it again then dropping it straight in to ice water, which cracked the crystal and it flooded, and even then it still ticked on for about another 24 hours before finally stopping. Should have taken photos.

So OP, if you really want a dressy looking watch that can take a beating, stay away from delicate haute horologe, go to your local high street jewellers and pick a Citizen or Seiko quartz or solar that you like the looks of.


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## Rakumi (Nov 11, 2015)

huwp said:


> I had a Citizen eco-drive dress watch that I realised I wasn't going to wear any more (I kinda liked it, but it was too small for me, and I'm the opposite of the OP in that I'd wear a g-shock to a black tie event before I'd wear a dress watch to go hiking).
> View attachment 12732103
> It wasn't worth my time trying to sell it so I thought I would give it a quick torture test before disposing of it. I boiled it for ten minutes. Still ticking. Froze it solid. Still ticking. Hit the crystal with the point of a cleaver several times. Couldn't even see a mark. (Take that, mineral crystal haters!) I finally killed it by boiling it again then dropping it straight in to ice water, which cracked the crystal and it flooded, and even then it still ticked on for about another 24 hours before finally stopping. Should have taken photos. So OP, if you really want a dressy looking watch that can take a beating, stay away from delicate haute horologe, go to your local high street jewellers and pick a Citizen or Seiko quartz or solar that you like the looks of.


 Lol, I dont understand. To each their own but why not just gifted it to a family member or friend? A child in the family would have loved a free watch. Looks pretty nice also.


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## Jim44 (Jul 1, 2017)

Rakumi said:


> Lol, I dont understand. To each their own but why not just gifted it to a family member or friend? A child in the family would have loved a free watch. Looks pretty nice also.


On the other hand he has advanced the cause of science, which I for one appreciate 

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## kaos12 (Feb 24, 2014)

Soundhunter said:


> Its not a dress watch..but it plays one on my wrist right now..
> 
> Orient Sentry
> 
> ...


I missed out on an eBay sale for one today. It sold for $69. It was a gray looking black dial.

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## v76 (Dec 29, 2009)

I'm surprised no one's mentioned the Chopard LUC 1937 Classic yet ... or perhaps the Omega Connie pie-pan redesign on a leather strap.


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## Soundhunter (Dec 4, 2017)

kaos12 said:


> I missed out on an eBay sale for one today. It sold for $69. It was a gray looking black dial.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk


sapphire/automatic/fairly clean face/under 12mm tall and under 42mm..Japanese made in house for $69.00 bucks. Yeah.. i'm a watch noob but that has to be a pretty damn good value..right?

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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



dantan said:


> This looks lovely and has made me consider purchasing a leather strap like this one for my blue dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual:


Hot damn that looks nice.

Less considering, more buying!!!

Edit: what strap is that, do you know? I want one myself! 

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## dantan (Dec 16, 2014)

Says you!

I do own one of these Watches, but I am considering purchasing a Leather Strap to it.



vkalia said:


> Hot damn that looks nice.
> 
> Less considering, more buying!!!
> 
> Sent from my SM-C900F using Tapatalk


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## heirmyles (Apr 14, 2014)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



vkalia said:


> Hot damn that looks nice.
> 
> Less considering, more buying!!!
> 
> ...


Can't be certain, but it looks like this strap from B&R Bands..

Navy Textured Calf Leather Watch Band | B & R Bands


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## dantan (Dec 16, 2014)

I believe that heirmyles is correct.

That is the correct leather strap.


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## kaos12 (Feb 24, 2014)

Soundhunter said:


> sapphire/automatic/fairly clean face/under 12mm tall and under 42mm..Japanese made in house for $69.00 bucks. Yeah.. i'm a watch noob but that has to be a pretty damn good value..right?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes, it is and I'm not pleased I missed out.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk


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## kaos12 (Feb 24, 2014)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



vkalia said:


> Hot damn that looks nice.
> 
> Less considering, more buying!!!
> 
> ...


I respect Rolex as a brand but I've never been really into their watches since falling into the watch world several years ago. The only one that I've seen that I'm into is the Milgauss. However, that strap makes me want that perpetual.

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## Drucifer (Aug 20, 2017)

dantan said:


> This looks lovely and has made me consider purchasing a leather strap like this one for my blue dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual:


It's already been said, but this is absolutely exquisite.


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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

dantan said:


> I believe that heirmyles is correct.
> 
> That is the correct leather strap.


@heirmyles and @dantan - you are beauties. Thanks!

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## ktn387 (Dec 16, 2017)

Hi Mr. M,
It's an interested topic. I'm also looking for a watch like this and want to keep it for years.
After looking and trying many models, I find out the Breitling Navitimer could fit these criteria. Have you ever try?
I was luckily have a change to try the bigger version, the Navitimer GMT and fell in love instantly with it.
Check out my photo below.
Have a nice weekend!

















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## Puckbw11 (Aug 21, 2011)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*

Have you checked out the Nomos Tangente Sport that Timeless watches has? Dressy, thin, lumed face, 100m wr, and as shock absorbent as any non-paraflex watch out there.

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## nikbrown (Jun 28, 2013)

Been rocking this a lot recently... really could get buy with this as my only piece I think.

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## Drucifer (Aug 20, 2017)

nikbrown said:


> Been rocking this a lot recently... really could get buy with this as my only piece I think.


Yep, I think so.


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## ZuluTimeAlpha (Dec 11, 2017)

Metlin said:


> Our grandfathers wore one watch, and it took a beating.


It's quite possible our grandfathers had military-issue watches that were designed to work whether fighting the Afrika Korps on the sands of North Africa or the Japanese in the Pacific Jungles, so compared to that, anything Civvie Street would throw at them would be a trifle. 

There's also the matter or personal tastes. For example, I love chronographs and military/field watches, and see dress watches as being... well, boring, mostly. Then again, my personal style is that of a well-travelled man who has lots of stuff to do, so I can pull off wearing chronographs and military/field watches in a variety of settings. This is also helped by the fact people rarely notice what watch I've got on anyway, too.



> For some reason, we take pride in making flimsy watches. Why not make a slightly larger watch that is dressy and can take a beating?


I agree there's no technical reason this can't be done, but perhaps the research as been done and it's been determined the market just isn't there to support it?

Then again, this is the same industry which regularly makes multi-million dollar watches and apparently has no trouble selling them so you do have to wonder.


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## nuovorecord (Nov 27, 2007)

It's probably not dressy enough for what your tastes may be, but my GADA watch would be my Mk XVI. Of all the watches I've owned, it's been the one piece that I can't see myself parting with. I've worn it with suits and Nantucket Reds...works great either way.










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## Puckbw11 (Aug 21, 2011)

Biggest restriction is thickness. Are there really any GADA watches under 10mm or even 11mm thick?

My dream:

Nomos

37-38mm with a lug to lug under 47mm.

Thickness under 10mm

Date at 6 

WR of 100m

Automatic movement 




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## faiz (Jul 15, 2013)

Puckbw11 said:


> Biggest restriction is thickness. Are there really any GADA watches under 10mm or even 11mm thick?
> 
> My dream:
> 
> ...


So the Ahoi Neomatik with a date?









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## Puckbw11 (Aug 21, 2011)

faiz said:


> So the Ahoi Neomatik with a date?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah at 36 it's a bit smaller than I would like with the 18mm strap, but pretty much yeah!

This is the only watch that I can see as being a great GADA, but it's really a dress watch at heart (vice a sports watch at heart).









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## faiz (Jul 15, 2013)

Puckbw11 said:


> Yeah at 36 it's a bit smaller than I would like with the 18mm strap, but pretty much yeah!
> 
> This is the only watch that I can see as being a great GADA, but it's really a dress watch at heart (vice a sports watch at heart).
> 
> ...


I like the Geophysic, the platinum more than the steel but I am enamoured with the Damasko DK105. Apart from the size, it is the best in class. Mike Stuffler's pic.









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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

I’m more lenient with the thickness and much more picky about the dial and the design aesthetics.


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## Puckbw11 (Aug 21, 2011)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



faiz said:


> I like the Geophysic, the platinum more than the steel but I am enamoured with the Damasko DK105. Apart from the size, it is the best in class. Mike Stuffler's pic.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice! 38mm and that'd be in my possession right now!

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## faiz (Jul 15, 2013)

Puckbw11 said:


> Nice! 38mm and that's be in my possession right now!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think I may forgive the size and go for it but I'd love to see one in person first.

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## BarracksSi (Feb 13, 2013)

Metlin said:


> I'm more lenient with the thickness and much more picky about the dial and the design aesthetics.


Same with me. A thinner watch can wear clunkier, too, depending on the lugs.


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## v76 (Dec 29, 2009)

Hey M, get the new Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds in steel, slap on a nice ostrich leather strap on it and call it a day ...















(images borrowed)


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## Metlin (Dec 15, 2010)

V - that Moser is on my shortlist. It looks terrific! Perfect in almost all every way.

Just wonder how it performs relative to a Rolex OP.


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## v76 (Dec 29, 2009)

Well, the lovely HMC200 caliber is relatively untested. I believe that the individual movements might be "fettled" and fussed over with more care, which in theory could translate to lower daily rate variation. It also has a really cool (and large!) variable weight inertia balance which should allow a skilled watchmaker to finesse it to perform admirably. However, it should also be noted that this is a low-beat movement (18000vph) which theoretically should display a larger instantaneous rate variation when subjected to mechanical shocks.

It is rather lovely to look at, I must say ... 



Metlin said:


> V - that Moser is on my shortlist. It looks terrific! Perfect in almost all every way.
> 
> Just wonder how it performs relative to a Rolex OP.


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## iceman767 (Jan 3, 2013)

To me the ingenieurs have always been my go to GADA watches. Unique, cool and capable of taking a severe beating too









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## eesh (Jun 9, 2011)

The VC Overseas 42042 could be a good candidate. Also, pre-owned they're not very hot right now.

With 150m WR and the GP movt. They should be able to take most of what life throws at us. Seriously considering this as the next purchase.










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## spidaman (Dec 24, 2011)

Ultrathin with legendary JLC 920 caliber movement.

Two hands only--the dress watch standard.

Precious metal case.

Comes with silky white gold bracelet, as well as a leather and rubber strap.

5 Bar water resistance.

A Trinity watch--with the price to match.

For me, this would be the ultimate GADA watch, but I would never have the scratch to make it worthwhile. Too many other ways I would want to spend the money.

VC Overseas ultra-thin

Image from the Interwebz


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## pixnw (Dec 20, 2008)

I believe some of the OP's desired characteristics tend to be somewhat mutually exclusive. A watch with things like indices that are more slight/delicate aren't typically designed to be very rugged. Watches that are designed to be rugged typically have larger indices. There is little doubt that it's due to marketing and not an inability to produce such a watch. Most folks looking for a dressier watch aren't as concerned with ruggedness. Maybe there is a small market for a more rugged watch that would be dressy enough for those that require it, to be a GADA watch. My personal feeling is that perhaps Damasko could make a variant of the DK105 with more of a dressier dial and no date. They could call it something like the DK105 "Formalen", (German for formal). I think to fully pull it off it would possibly need more of a traditional case. Probably not one of their ice hardened cases. Something more traditional with a bit more polish. Of course you lose some of the ruggedness of the ice hardened case, but there will have to be compromises.

That being said, James Bond has worn a variety of non dress watches with Tuxedo's and pulled it off quite fine.


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## BarracksSi (Feb 13, 2013)

To reiterate the initial point (hopefully) —

Is it too much to ask for a slim, dressy watch with subdued markers (hopefully with some lume), good water resistance, sapphire crystal, and acceptable resistance to bumps and scrapes?

I don’t see why “rugged” should automatically mean “dive watch” or “G-Shock”. It’s perfectly reasonable to expect a pretty watch to have sturdy construction.


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## hanshananigan (Apr 8, 2012)

BarracksSi said:


> To reiterate the initial point (hopefully) -
> 
> Is it too much to ask for a slim, dressy watch with subdued markers (hopefully with some lume), good water resistance, sapphire crystal, and acceptable resistance to bumps and scrapes?
> 
> I don't see why "rugged" should automatically mean "dive watch" or "G-Shock". It's perfectly reasonable to expect a pretty watch to have sturdy construction.


Not too much to ask, and have already been presented above. Just not to the OP's tastes.


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## BarracksSi (Feb 13, 2013)

hanshananigan said:


> Not too much to ask, and have already been presented above. Just not to the OP's tastes.


So why are we still getting answers like, "Ya, wear a Deepsea with a suit 'cuz James Bond did"?


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## faiz (Jul 15, 2013)

pixnw said:


> I believe some of the OP's desired characteristics tend to be somewhat mutually exclusive. A watch with things like indices that are more slight/delicate aren't typically designed to be very rugged. Watches that are designed to be rugged typically have larger indices. There is little doubt that it's due to marketing and not an inability to produce such a watch. Most folks looking for a dressier watch aren't as concerned with ruggedness. Maybe there is a small market for a more rugged watch that would be dressy enough for those that require it, to be a GADA watch. My personal feeling is that perhaps Damasko could make a variant of the DK105 with more of a dressier dial and no date. They could call it something like the DK105 "Formalen", (German for formal). I think to fully pull it off it would possibly need more of a traditional case. Probably not one of their ice hardened cases. Something more traditional with a bit more polish. Of course you lose some of the ruggedness of the ice hardened case, but there will have to be compromises.
> 
> That being said, James Bond has worn a variety of non dress watches with Tuxedo's and pulled it off quite fine.


Damasko DK105 works as it is in my opinion.
Mike Stuffler's pic.









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## wilson007 (Feb 4, 2014)

One more vote for the JLC geo. Kind of a jack of all trades master of none, imo, but a great piece that I'd move to own. I wouldn't take it to the beach, but it can handle pretty much anything while going with a suit.


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## vkalia (Oct 26, 2014)

BarracksSi said:


> So why are we still getting answers like, "Ya, wear a Deepsea with a suit 'cuz James Bond did"?


Cos WUS.


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## Shockwave (Nov 19, 2013)

Metlin said:


> I just want to be clear here: it is not that I will not own multiple watches. I am not magically giving away all my watches, or stop buying new ones.
> 
> I am in a good place in my collection, but I do feel that I need a dress watch that I can consistently wear both on my adventures and for formal occasions. And I really am enjoying the idea of having just the one watch, and having the rest in my collection to be occasionally worn.
> 
> And if I am wearing a dress watch that's scratched from climbs and dives to the board room, then it's even better. I see that as a mark of pride.


In this case, then wouldn't it be more prudent to wear the explorer or other "tool" type watch for all of those activities and wear the dress watch occasionally for formal events?

It sounds like you are as active as formal/semi-formal. 
As for being proper at formal events, social norms are being broken all the time, hence why we don't all wear suits and ties daily anymore, even if we aren't working. 
Someone wearing a well seasoned tool watch at a black tie event, can spark some intrigue like, "I bet that guy has some stories." 
In contrast wouldn't the dress watch seem out of place on some of those adventurous outings? Isn't wearing a dress watch surfing as much a faux pas as wearing a tool watch at a black tie affair? It's not like you are wearing a g-shock.

I feel like something from the Victorinox concept of blending a sport/dress watch might suit what you are after. Maybe something a bit more dressy, design wise.









Omega Maybe?









I think what makes some of the vintage watches our forefathers before us wore so legendary, isn't the watch itself, but the man stepping out of those "learned boundaries" you refer to and just wearing the watch for whatever he put it through. They didn't ask why, they asked why not?


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## Chronopolis (Apr 8, 2009)

Metlin said:


> ...I am wearing a dress watch that's scratched from *climbs and dives to the board room*, then it's even better. *I see that as a mark of pride*.


But tell me: why do you not simply *walk into *the board room, instead of_ climbing and diving _to it? ;-)


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## MisterV (Nov 30, 2016)

eesh said:


> The VC Overseas 42042 could be a good candidate. Also, pre-owned they're not very hot right now.
> 
> With 150m WR and the GP movt. They should be able to take most of what life throws at us. Seriously considering this as the next purchase.
> 
> ...





spidaman said:


> Ultrathin with legendary JLC 920 caliber movement.
> 
> Two hands only--the dress watch standard.
> 
> ...





eesh said:


> The VC Overseas 42042 could be a good candidate. Also, pre-owned they're not very hot right now.
> 
> With 150m WR and the GP movt. They should be able to take most of what life throws at us. Seriously considering this as the next purchase.
> 
> ...


These would be my answer as well (though I like the new model better).
How does a beaten-up VCO look like, I wonder? Probably still quite gorgeous?

Don't know what's acceptable at black tie events tbh. Not sure whether it's a thing at all outside of the anglophone space.


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## mak1277 (Aug 9, 2016)

I know it's only 50m WR, so that may exclude it...but when I saw this coming release I thought of this thread.

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/baume-and-mercier-clifton-baumatic-5-day-chronometer-introducing


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## sammers (Dec 19, 2008)

Newly announced OP 39mm white dial. To be honest that and a chronograph would probably be enough









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## Earl Grey (Aug 17, 2013)

Only read half the thread, but I'm surprised nobody apparently mentioned the Globemaster (100m).










If that's not dressy enough, then how about the Seamaster 1948 (60m).










Both basically have the same movements as Omega's dive watches so should be plenty shock resistant, and completely anti-magnetic.

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## lexurg (Oct 11, 2017)

Perhaps Certina DS-4 38 mm could work:


 great movement-ETA E64.111-Omega bases their quartz on it IIRC
 only 7.45 mm thick
 robust and 100 m WR due to the Double Security concept (https://www.certina.com/ds-concept)
 anthracite version has titanium case and bracelet


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## prinzaugsburg (Jan 1, 2015)

Seiko SARB033
At 38mm it is perfect for me.
Every day wearer, rugged, 100M wr.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but it looks sooo good to me.
£280.


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## R332 (Jul 29, 2007)

Metlin,

Your thread is perfectly timed because I am on the exact same hunt and anxious to buy my GADA stainless steel watch ASAP 

To your list of 'must haves' I will add two more 'nice to haves':

-Lume would be nice. I know that lume isn't traditionally included on a dress watch but it adds a lot to the functionality, especially as I age!

-One complication or cool technical feature to satisfy my inner WIS. This could be just a simple date (a major plus for me) or something like a very long power reserve or power reserve indicator or in the case of a JLC the deadbeat second.

In terms of styling and proportions there are plenty of watches that come close but I still can't find one (sub-$10k) that hits all the marks.

Batons or sticks for the hours is my preference and I want a watch that is native to a leather strap, not a Rolex robbed of one of it's finest features. Probably the biggest deal breaker on most of the watches I've considered is their thickness - it really needs to be no more than 11mm and should ideally be under 10mm. I am over 6' tall with a 7" wrist so I can pull off a fairly large watch but for a classy GADA somewhere around 39m-40mm x 9mm would be perfect!

The new B&M Clifton Baumatic gets very close on styling and size but it is lacking lume and *flame suit on* isn't quite special and exclusive enough for me to lust after. If B&M had doubled the price I would probably want it :-d To be fair the $3k B&M doesn't have the same level of detailing or accessories (strap & deployant) that I would expect from a watch costing 3-4 times the price.

The JLC Master Control Date is a perennial classic that should be at the top of my list but it is lacking pizzazz.

Let's keep this brilliant thread going until we've explored all of the GADA possibilities!



Metlin said:


> But that got me thinking. Is there a watch that could truly be just the "one watch"?
> 
> For it to be truly the one watch for me, there are just two conditions:
> 
> ...


----------



## warsh (May 22, 2017)

*Re: Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



nikbrown said:


> Omega AT
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think these two would have to be top contenders, but I think the OP will find neither dressy enough.

Back to "you wouldn't run a marathon in office shoes...."

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## warsh (May 22, 2017)

piningforthefjords said:


> Hm. I was debating about whether to add this to the list of suggestions, but what the hell...
> 
> How about the Zenith Captain Moonphase? 50m water resistance, but unsure about shock resistance etc. This is a long-time favourite of mine, but haven't yet committed to getting one.
> 
> ...


Never saw that watch before. Spectacular!

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## Kurt Behm (Mar 19, 2006)

Yep, I'm hearing self-absorbed pretense....


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## Earl Grey (Aug 17, 2013)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*



warsh said:


> Never saw that watch before. Spectacular!
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


If that's too busy there is also the central seconds version (also 50m water resistant and 8.6mm thin). It even has lume!



















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## R332 (Jul 29, 2007)

The Globemaster comes so close to being a perfect GADA but like so many others it is too thick - over 12mm!

The Seamaster 1948 is very nice in an old fashion way. I wonder if it wears true to 38mm or larger?



Earl Grey said:


> Only read half the thread, but I'm surprised nobody apparently mentioned the Globemaster (100m).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## that 1 guy (Feb 27, 2017)

Take a look at the VERO 36 mm watches. They are not fancy blingy gold but are small unpretentious and rugged. I have not handled one but have taken the plunge due to a number of factors, 100 m water resistance, 36mm case, box sapphire front flat sapphire back, total thickness from back to front of the sapphire 9.5mm. The movement is Sellita SW 210 hand wound. The company has made a real effort to do as much of the work (case, dial, finishing) in Portland USA, which is a major factor that attracted me to the watch.
For some reason I am unable to post a picture.


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## ChiILUS (Feb 15, 2016)

Take your pick of dressy pieces from Mühle Glashütte-being a nautical instrument company they have 10, 20 and 30ATM pieces improved from some of ETAs most reliable movements with rotors and their patented shock resistant woodpecker neck regulator. My Seebataillon is a tank and takes its knocks but they also have dressier models. https://www.muehle-glashuette.de/en/wristwatches/functional-wristwatches/ . Good family company too from a long tradition in Glashütte.


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## lvbhoho (Feb 18, 2014)

Some interesting watches ITT.


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## warsh (May 22, 2017)

Sinn 556i









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## BarracksSi (Feb 13, 2013)

I've got a recommendation of my own now. Going way back and adding to GMH Watches's post:


GMH Watches said:


> OP 36 or 39 swapped onto strap?


This would be similar to what I'd want today as a rugged-ish dress watch -- one of the new Rolex Cellini models. Still with a screw-down crown, 50m WR, same movement ruggedness as other models. Pretty much like an OP with a dressier dial and leather strap, I suppose.

I kinda wonder if one of Rolex's bracelets would fit on a Cellini, but then we're talking a lot more money (you wouldn't match a white gold case to a steel bracelet, would you?). And it would be a hell of a lot more practical to put an OP on leather (but don't some Oyster cases chew up some leather straps?).

(and apologies if I recommended the Cellini before in this thread; the watch has been on my mind ever since I handled one earlier this year, but I don't remember if I already wrote about it)


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## shemp55 (Oct 15, 2011)

Newer style Aqua Terra is too chunky/sporty IMO, but 2500 style could be GADA. If I'm completely honest, that Zenith Captain Central Seconds would probably be at the top of the list.


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## hector67 (Jun 24, 2015)

Without having read the entire thread, The watch IMO thet comes the closer to what you are looking for is the new Cartier Santos. It comes with 100m WR, a steel bracelet and easy to switch to a numer of leather straps. It is thin, gulloche white dial, roman numerals and quite elegant when in leather strap. 

Image from Hodinkee


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## American Jedi (May 27, 2017)

There can only be one GATA watch
Sub...


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## styrakaar (Jan 29, 2013)

Over 200 posts and nobody has mentioned the Breguet Marine?
For me, that's the answer the OP is looking for 








Image from here: http://www.my-watchsite.com/12193-large_default/marine-5817.jpg


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## antistokes (Dec 20, 2018)

I agree with the Posters who say that the Rolex OP or the Omega AT fit the bill-- very sleek and dressy but rugged. 

Here are two alternatives... Grand Seiko GMT on leather strap, 70hr power reserve, but only 30m water resistance + leather strap (beautiful, almost bought one, but for robustness I instead bought...) 

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT titanium with white face and blue GMT hand (also comes in black face red GMT hand and some others). Mix of polished and brushed finishes in the titanium, sapphire on front and back. Has date, but no weird magnifying lens in the sapphire. 100m water resistance, 55hr power reserve. Plus it's a Hi-Beat (36,000bph) for accuracy and also for an awesome fast "tickytickyticky" sound. 🙂


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## Tamadx (Dec 11, 2014)

Hmmm makes me really re think the everyday dress watch 

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## TwentiethCenturyFox (Mar 8, 2014)

Why did your photos show the "dregs" of the watch industry?


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## BarracksSi (Feb 13, 2013)

TwentiethCenturyFox said:


> Why did your photos show the "dregs" of the watch industry?


Whose?


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## zimv20ca (Oct 21, 2017)

my contender is the Hentschel H2 Botschafter, tested in maritime conditions and featuring a bronze case that won't patina.

https://hentschel-hamburg.de/en/modelle/hamburg-botschafter.html









i think the Rolex OP is an excellent suggestion. i'm going to borrow a pic from user @Sebast975 that he posted 
here.









finally, i thought @dantan made an excellent suggestion w/ this ultrathin Montblanc:


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## Trexweightlifting (Oct 8, 2015)

If budget is no issue how about vacheron constantin overseas.. 150 wr bracelet, rubber, leather quick change.. ticks all the boxes I think
Shame it's so expensive 🤨


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## Trexweightlifting (Oct 8, 2015)

On leather 👍


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## antistokes (Dec 20, 2018)

BarracksSi said:


> TwentiethCenturyFox said:
> 
> 
> > Why did your photos show the "dregs" of the watch industry?
> ...


Yes, I'm wondering whose photos he means as well. I've looked at some of his other posts and I don't *think* he has anything against Seiko. Hmmm. Breguet? Why? Strange, I can't tell either.


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## pardayan (Oct 3, 2018)




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## Puckbw11 (Aug 21, 2011)

*Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*

Trying to think of a watch that meets this criteria:

37-39mm in diameter

Under 12mm thick

No date

100m WR or better

No diver's bezel

Steel

Vintage inspired high domed sapphire crystal

Screw down crown

Non Seiko/Miyota Automatic Movement

On a strap

No crown guards

Under 10k

I don't think this exists out there. Closest is the Rolex Explorer, but I prefer leather straps. Anybody?

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## marv524 (Apr 13, 2015)

Puckbw11 said:


> *Rugged dress watches - a true "GADA" watch*
> 
> Trying to think of a watch that meets this criteria:
> 
> ...


I know this thread is old.. But has anybody got any answer to these criteria?


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## JTK Awesome (Apr 4, 2018)

Metlin said:


> We are conditioned to think within the boundaries that are learned, but seldom ask why.
> 
> &#8230;
> 
> But for some reason, there seems to be this artificial dichotomy between dress and tool watches that seems entirely conjured up.


This "conditioning" you speak of is called REALITY. And in reality, one size does not fit all.

A space shuttle can't also be a fighter jet.

An ocean liner can't also be an Americas Cup contender.

An F1 car can't go Jeeping in Moab.

A running shoe can't also be a tennis shoe.

And a dress watch can't explore the ocean depths, any more than an Omega Ploprof belongs on your wrist at a State Dinner.


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## Earl Grey (Aug 17, 2013)

marv524 said:


> I know this thread is old.. But has anybody got any answer to these criteria?


Old Railmaster in 39 and 36mm (wears very large for its size, so I'd go 36 if looking for 37-39)










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## Earl Grey (Aug 17, 2013)

Halios Universa

(Note to OP, who is probably deceased by now: you can take all these watches off the bracelet and put them on a strap.) 










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## Earl Grey (Aug 17, 2013)

Nomos Club in 36 or 38 (again wears large)










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