# Why do I take my watch to a watchmaker to get polished?



## XeroZeus

Hello WUS,

I contemplated whether to post this in this forum or Public Discussion. If a moderator deems that it would get better responses in PD, please move it. 

With that said:
I have taken a few of my watches in over the past few years to a local watchmaker in my area to be cleaned up. To get the bracelets cleaned up and polished real nice. They do an AMAZING job of getting light scratches out and such. My question is what do they do when they do this? Are there any certain tools that they use or products that are just way too expensive for a common public individual to buy for themselves? I really take to my watches and enjoy them each individually. I would RATHER clean and polish them up myself. 

Is anybody familiar with cleaning them themselves and getting scratches out of bands? Can you recommend me any tools or products in which to use to do just as good of a job as the people that I am accustomed to dropping my watches off to?

Thanks so much.

XZ


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## Nokie

Yes, very easy to do yourself with a bit of practice and the correct tools and materials. Some marks can be corrected by hand and a simple polishing cloth. Others require a buffing pad and jewelers polish or rouge. 

You should be able to use the search forum on this site to find a number of threads on how to do it. 

Try something like "How to polish your watch" or "How to polish or remove scratches", or anything along those lines. 

You could probably Google this as well for other resources. 

There are also a number of good "How-To" videos on YouTube on how to do this correctly.


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## Irishsig

Just keep in mind that cleaning up polished metal is usually easier than brushed due to the fact that you have to go with the grain of the initial buffing marks on brushed metal.
I was going to refinish one of my own brushed SS divers myself but after much research decided to go with a professional.
If your watch does have a brushed finish maybe consider practicing on a similar piece of metal that might not have so much value attached to it.


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## Guest

What they're using:








(Cheaper or expensive options do of course exist, but the method is more or less similar)

That kind of machine plus abrasive/polishing/buffing wheels and polishing compounds. Always apply the same compound on the same wheel. Don't mix these.

You'll first remove the deepest scratches, with a real abrasive disc if needed, then you're polishing it with different wheels and compounds, from "coarse" to fine grain.
I use "Dialux Vert" (the green one) on everything, then a white compound for the final polishing. The whole areas are now polished, even the previously brushed ones.

You'll discover some steels are easier to polish than others. Gold is a joy to work onto.

If it's an alternating polished/brushed finish, you'll have to CAREFULLY apply some masking tape to protect the polished areas. If you don't want to remove the glass/sapphire, protect it the same way. Apply masking tape and CAREFULLY (;-)) use a razor around the glass to get a perfect circular masked area.
_Image borrowed from a watchmaking blog:_








Then check with a loupe if the polished parts are properly covered (or the previous job will be ruined), then you're able to brush it with a brushing wheel. This part is easier (imho) than getting a perfect polish. The previous brushed lines will disappear and be replaced by the ones you're making.
Getting long and straight lines is easier if you keep your hands steady against something stable.

After the brushed phase, if you must correct some lightly scratched areas where you want those polished, do it on a hard polishing wheel, not on fluffy cotton discs that will mess the brushed job.

Always start with polishing, then the brushing.

For the circular brushing around the bezel, you'll need a lathe (even a small 6/8 mm one) and a 3-jaws chuck, or you'll be off-center and it'll look messy. Here, you can use a classic emery sheet, a micrograin 3M sheet (the 40µ works great), or ... a green scotchbrite pad.

The caseback can be brushed the same way with a 6 jaws bezel chuck.
For the bezel and the caseback, you'll need a steady center or you'll get nothing. If you don't have a lathe, don't do it.

I'd recommend to use a pair of leather gloves (or nomex/kevlar heat resistant gloves, yes the ones for ... the oven :-! ), or you'll definitely get some light burns.

Breitling has an interesting video about all this:
Brietling Meintenance - Polishing - YouTube
Of course, keep in mind it's done by a pro polisher, with experience, at the factory, with top-notch tools and a bit more allowed time. 
An independent local Breitling watchmaker will do 99% the same job with much basic tools.

I hope everything's clear, since english isn't my mothertongue :-s


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## xristianos

Here's a great example of what they do. Complete with piccies.

Rolex Case Polishing by Nicholas Hacko


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## Veloci-T

Hi couldn't help replying to your thread as I polish watches myself using all of the above mentioned tools, mops, compounds etc, its a three stage technique starting off coarse to remove the scratches etc but as mentioned by Misterpeter a brushed steel finish is a whole new ball game.
I decided to do this as I enjoy the finished piece bringing it back to its former if not better than glory is a great feeling good luck if you decide to go down polishing your own route and if you need any help or advice I would be more than happy to help.
when you consider that Breitling charge around £260 to polish a watch well............


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## bluloo

Nice thread. :-!
I cringe, a little, when people suggest that using a Cape Cod cloth is all you really need to polish out scratches, and achieve a mirror finish.


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## Veloci-T

bluloo said:


> Nice thread. :-!
> I cringe, a little, when people suggest that using a Cape Cod cloth is all you really need to polish out scratches, and achieve a mirror finish.


That does make me smile considering it takes me a good two hours to do a pro job on a full stainless steel watch & bracelet & that's without going over every single link on the bracelet with a loupe to ensure I haven't missed anything


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## Shawnny

I use an auto detailer spray and a micro fiber for everyday cleaning, before I put my watch on. Just give it a light spray and dry it off. For a more thorough cleaning I use tooth paste, mixed with water and a very soft brush. If the watch has a leather strap, take it off. If I want to polish a watch or get some light scratches out, I use Meguires Speed Glaze #80 with a foam pad on a random orbital buffer. Again, take leather straps off. #80 is a diminishing abrasive, which means the abrasive gets finer as you use it. Now don't get frightened, it's a very fine abrasive to begin with, and it takes some time to get good results. I polished this Nighthawk with #80, but it took a good hour with a high speed, random orbital buffer. I have also used it on gold plated Invictas without burning through the plate. And, it's safe to use it on all types of crystals.


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## little big feather

If you just want to clean them good, not buff out scratches.....I recommend VERAET Watch Spray.
They shine like diamonds!


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