# The Oris Aquis's movement...and other thoughts.



## jalcon

I'm was close to pulling the trigger on the new 2017 Oris Aquis. The ONLY thing that's stopping me is the movement. The ETA 2824 clone, the Sellita sw200-1 movement. It's not a Sellita thing. It's just the fact that the ETA 2824 is ETA's budget movment, and spending $1500 for a watch with a worse movement than so many watches 1/3 of it's price seems so incredibly silly to me, and I wasn't sure I could get over it....but I did....until today. Today I read that you should REALLY limit hand winding the ETA 2824/SW200-1 movement, because it's got brass gears as a cost saving measure. You mean to tell me I shouldn't even wind my $1500 automatic watch now? I mean....at one point to you realize how ridiculous it is that a $1500 watch has such a "meh" movement in it. Just LOL. Someone tell me I'm wrong? I would love to be!


----------



## sticky

I wouldn’t call the SW200 a meh movement. Both the 2824 and the early SW200 movements could strip the handwinding gears. Sellita brought out the SW200-1 several years ago to combat this issue. I’m pretty sure that Oris now uses only the SWS200-1 movements as I don’t think there are any of the original SW200s still floating around.


----------



## jalcon

sticky said:


> I wouldn't call the SW200 a meh movement. Both the 2824 and the early SW200 movements could strip the handwinding gears. Sellita brought out the SW200-1 several years ago to combat this issue. I'm pretty sure that Oris now uses only the SWS200-1 movements as I don't think there are any of the original SW200s still floating around.


Hmmm...the SW200-1 fixed the stripping of the gears issue? This is the first I've heard this, but would be good if true..


----------



## psbero

The SW200 and 2824 are not 'meh' movements, they're tough, durable, serviceable, work horses; and to be honest I'm not sure what else you could expect at that price range?
You're not going to get an Omega 8500, Rolex 3135, or a Tudor MT5612 at that price range. And in my opinion the 2824/SW200 is better than any Seiko 4R, 6R, or Miyota 9015 type movement, as they are more durable, serviceable, and can take and hold a better regulation. The only other good movement available at a similar price is the 2892/SW300, which is thinner, finer, and arguably not as durable as the 2824. Sure, the Oris doesn't come with a 'chronometer' or 'top' grade SW200, but that's really not that big of a deal - you don't usually start getting those from big brands until you get to Breitling and IWC.

As for the stripping of the hand-winding gears, I have heard of very few accounts of that on 2824s. It can happen, but it seems quite uncommon and it's not something to really worry about. Hand winding is not something you typically do too much of with these movements. 10-15 winds to get it going from 'empty', and then just let the automatic system do the rest. And because the 2824 is such an easily serviceable movement, even if you do happen strip those gears they are easily and cheaply replaced at a service.

My thoughts - buy it, enjoy it, and don't worry about it. And if you have issues 10+ years down the track, it's easily fixable at service.


----------



## rosborn

I suggest the OP do some research on the number of watches that actually house the Sellita movement. More expensive watches, like Tag Heuer, use Sellita movements. Does the OP even understand why Oris uses Sellita movements? If so, you wouldn't be asking the question in the first place or have issues with that fact. If not, let me explain it to you. ETA movements are owned by the SWATCH Group, which owns many watch brands (Certina, Hamilton, Longines, etc.) All of these watches have ETA movements in them though the movements may have other designations. Some time ago, the SWATCH Group decided not to sell ETA movements to watch companies outside their "watch family". Prior to this time, Sellita had been making movements for ETA but those movements were branded ETA. When the SWATCH Group decided to no longer provide movements to companies not in the "family" those companies, Oris and others, had no alternative but to go elsewhere. Voila Sellita.

What may interest you more, and what I love about Oris is this...the Oris company was taken over by the SWATCH Group at one time. The SWATCH Group intended for Oris to be a low end quartz member of the "family". Oris decided that they did not want to be a low end quartz member of the "family" and bought themselves back from the "relationship". Since that move, Oris has been an INDEPENDENT watch manufacturer making fine automatic watches. I say screw the SWATCH Group and their ETA movements. I like the maverick who has decided to do things their own way while maintaining over 100 years of horological history.


----------



## jalcon

rosborn said:


> Does the OP even understand why Oris uses Sellita movements?


Ehh...no, that's kind of why I made the thread.

I hear you on sticking it to the big machine known as SWATCH, I can respect that.


----------



## rosborn

jalcon said:


> Ehh...no, that's kind of why I made the thread.
> 
> I hear you on sticking it to the big machine known as SWATCH, I can respect that.


But now you understand why Oris uses Sellita. They had no choice, The same with Tag Heuer and other watch manufacturers. It suck when one company tries to monopolize the watch industry.


----------



## jalcon

rosborn said:


> But now you understand why Oris uses Sellita. They had no choice, The same with Tag Heuer and other watch manufacturers. It suck when one company tries to monopolize the watch industry.


Yeah it does. But...it wasn't just about Sellita. It was more about ETA already being their entry level movement (or so I thought?)


----------



## rosborn

jalcon said:


> Yeah it does. But...it wasn't just about Sellita. It was more about ETA already being their entry level movement (or so I thought?)


Understood. I have owned watches with ETA 2824-2, Sellita Sw200-1, Seiko 6R15, Miyota 9015 and Seiko's in house 8L35 and they have all operated without issues and have been very accurate. The best automatic movement I have ever had was an ETA Valjoux 7753 in a pretty inespensive Certina chronograph. Honestly, the biggest factor was wearing the watches regularly. You just can't expect great accuracy if you're wearing the watch a day here and a day there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Keith Hauser

Pretty much every mechanical watch uses brass gear train components, aside from very high end manufactures.


----------



## ohjnxg12345

i have bad experiences with sw movement.. eta generally solid


----------



## Oleksiis

I had a very bad experience with Aquis' Sellita SW-200 too. Never ever had any problem with Tissot's ETA 2824-2 (about 5 years of very tough usage).


----------



## kplam

Not discrediting anybody's experiences, but these are sample of one anecdotes. Sellita are shipping in thousands upon thousands of Swiss watches.

With the SW200 being an ETA 2824 clone, and Sellita formerly a subcontractor for ETA production, how bad can they be?


----------



## Whiskeydevil

My first Swiss auto was a Tag Heuer carrera from 2009. At the time, I believed the movements were only ETA. Then I decided to check the movement with a loupe. And there was the selitta stamp.


----------



## ohjnxg12345

kplam said:


> Not discrediting anybody's experiences, but these are sample of one anecdotes. Sellita are shipping in thousands upon thousands of Swiss watches.
> 
> With the SW200 being an ETA 2824 clone, and Sellita formerly a subcontractor for ETA production, how bad can they be?


can't say for sure why, maybe the QC? My etas all perform considerably better


----------



## kplam

Coincidentally this feature just came out on Fratello today

https://www.fratellowatches.com/exlusive-sellita-manufacture/


----------



## xherion

Wow that gives me a lot of confidence using Sellita movements, thanks for the link!


----------



## jalcon

Just saw this thread.. realized I started it. So I've had the Aquis for about 3 months now and its about +1.5 a day.... about +10 a week. Love it.


----------



## jenyang

kplam said:


> Coincidentally this feature just came out on Fratello today
> 
> https://www.fratellowatches.com/exlusive-sellita-manufacture/


Nice read. The Eta 2824 vs Sellita 200-1 issue has been beat to death on this forum. From what I've seen 80% say no difference, 10% claim Eta is better and 10% say Sellita is better. I've had 6 watches with Sellitas in them from four different brands, wind them 25-30 turns to get started, let them stop and start again because I switch often, and they have all been very accurate and have never had an problem.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk


----------



## Wolfy1909

I own two watches with Sellitas inside: Aquis Chrono with the SW 500 and the Artelier Complication with the SW 200. Both are incredibly accurate with 1 sec per day plus.

Cheers
Wolfgang


----------



## AKV

A little late to the party, but for anyone who is interested: I've had an old style Aquis with said Sw200 for a year now and have experienced no issues. Also runs within COSC standards at +4 sec.


----------



## brmott

Great info in this thread. I have been toying with buying an Aquis for an everyday casual piece.


----------



## SW004

I own two ORIS Aquis watches = Aquis Hammerhead LE, Aquis Chronograph Blue dial 2018 release model, i had some serious reservations with ORIS using Sellita movements & not inhouse or ETA. But upon further research & some good advise from the ppl on this forum, am now comletely comfortable with ORIS using the Sellita as a base movement. |>


----------



## LinuxJonCB

rosborn said:


> I suggest the OP do some research on the number of watches that actually house the Sellita movement. More expensive watches, like Tag Heuer, use Sellita movements. Does the OP even understand why Oris uses Sellita movements? If so, you wouldn't be asking the question in the first place or have issues with that fact. If not, let me explain it to you. ETA movements are owned by the SWATCH Group, which owns many watch brands (Certina, Hamilton, Longines, etc.) All of these watches have ETA movements in them though the movements may have other designations. Some time ago, the SWATCH Group decided not to sell ETA movements to watch companies outside their "watch family". Prior to this time, Sellita had been making movements for ETA but those movements were branded ETA. When the SWATCH Group decided to no longer provide movements to companies not in the "family" those companies, Oris and others, had no alternative but to go elsewhere. Voila Sellita.
> 
> What may interest you more, and what I love about Oris is this...the Oris company was taken over by the SWATCH Group at one time. The SWATCH Group intended for Oris to be a low end quartz member of the "family". Oris decided that they did not want to be a low end quartz member of the "family" and bought themselves back from the "relationship". Since that move, Oris has been an INDEPENDENT watch manufacturer making fine automatic watches. I say screw the SWATCH Group and their ETA movements. I like the maverick who has decided to do things their own way while maintaining over 100 years of horological history.


Well... that is all info I was unaware of, but am happy to know as an Oris owner.


----------



## rosborn

LinuxJonCB said:


> Well... that is all info I was unaware of, but am happy to know as an Oris owner.


I am constantly amazed by the fact that responses to threads I made long ago are liked or responded to. It just goes to show you that once it's on the internet it never goes away.

Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## johnnmiller1

Interesting description by Christopher Ward:

https://www.christopherward.co.uk/etasellitastory.html

https://www.fratellowatches.com/exlusive-sellita-manufacture/

Seems the lines are more blurred than initially thought. ETA used to have Sellitta manufacture their movements for the (in the 90s) but then they had to stop when ETA started to do the building themselves. Now they manufacture their own movements and ETA make theirs. I'm very happy with all the SW200-1's I've owned.


----------



## dron_jones

thanks for posting!


----------



## M1K3Z0R

Great info here. I've never been overly concerned about Selitta because the 2824 design is a proven dependable movement, and most importantly ubiquitous and easily serviced/replaced by just about any competent watchmaker. Fancy in-house movements are nice on paper but when it comes time to service you may be stuck with going through an AD for support because your watchmaker may not have the knowledge, parts, or other resources to service proprietary components. 

It wasn't too long ago that the previous gen Tudor Pelagos used the 2824 and that wasn't a cheap watch either. Prices seem to be going up in general, I'm heavily invested in Seiko and if you look at Seiko's 6R15 movement (the most comparable to a 2824, some disagree) they've been moving that movement upmarket into $1K+ watches and still have no trouble selling it.


----------



## ellesse77

I just swapped the Sellita with an Eta


----------



## underpar

The SW200-1 costs about $115. The 2824-1 is about $125. 

They are the same, inexpensive movement with no degradation in quality and easily replaceable. 

It's really not worth debating. Like the difference between Cheve and GMC.


----------

