# Grand Seiko SBGR253 (37mm black dial automatic)



## AustinOX (Aug 23, 2009)

I've been buying and selling watches for about 11 years now. I finally purchased my grail last year- and I'd have saved a lot of money if I'd done it sooner. Unfortunately it's a massive Breitling Avenger Seawolf, and it literally has to be stuffed under a cuff. I've got no problem with anyone who wants to wear a big diver with a suit, but my personal preference is for something dressier. I also know that a Bambino would work like a charm, but I like wearing something special if I'm putting on a suit.

In the past I've worn fliegers when I was getting dressed up. I eventually bought a Concord Mariner Diver as a dress watch. It was fantastic, and I should have never sold it- but even though it punched way above it's weight class and was ultra thin for a dive watch, I didn't have any illusions that it was otherwise particularly special.

I sold it to help fund the purchase of an Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow co-axial. I'd also sold off a Damasko DK, and wanted another high tech, in-house(ish) movement. Unfortunately I found the Geneva striped dial to be too reflective, especially outdoors in the sun. Otherwise I liked the Omega, but didn't love it, and I wasn't blown away by it like I felt I should have been for my most expensive purchase to date.

Enter the Grand Seiko. I've been enamored with GS dauphine hands (and the rest of their dials) for years. I can't think of any watch, at any price, with hands that I prefer more. I told myself that I was going to cash out at least half of the cost of the Omega and get a 9F quartz, but when I sold a second watch in the same week as the Omega, I decided to get a GS automatic. Quartz would have been much more practical, of course, but besides my preference for mechanicals, many of the quartz models have ho-hum oyster style bracelets, and too small crowns. Those that don't, like the SBGV007 in the fantastic GS44 case, often sell within a couple hundred dollars of like-new entry level autos. Bracelet aesthetics are important to me. I will likely always wear this watch on it's bracelet, and it takes up more real estate on the wrist than the watch head. I made one low offer on an SBGV023 on eBay (40mm quartz on a brushed oyster style bracelet), and I was relieved that it wasn't accepted. After that I was pretty certain that I was going to get an auto on a 5 link bracelet.

Since everything but the 37mm SBGR*** was off the table due to price, my decisions were limited to dial color, and old logo vs new. Dial color was easy for me. I like all of them, but none of them showcase the hands and markers like the inky black dials. The logo decision was harder. In photos I have a strong preference for the balance of the old dials. But I also like the elimination of the familiar Seiko logo on the new dial. After all, this isn't a Prospex or a Presage, it's a friggin Grand Seiko! I just thought that the GS logo was too high, and the other text was too low on the new dials. An SBGR053 (old dial) and an SBGR253 (new dial) were available on the pre-owned market in about the same condition and at around the same price. I opted for the new 254- but wasn't sure that I was making the right decision.

I received it yesterday, and I'm happy to report that the decision was a good one. This is the right version of the right watch, and it lives up to the Grand Seiko hype.

My expectations for the dial could not have been higher, so meeting them is a serious accomplishment. The hands are sublime. While they can't be as fully appreciated with the naked eye as in macro photos, they are elegant and alive on the wrist. The polished portions appear and disappear with movement, reflecting light all the while. The same can be said for the edges of the indices, sparkling in rotation as opposite indices briefly flash if you move your wrist in an arc. 12, 6, and 9 are marked by double rectangular indices on this model, which I prefer over the trapezoids that distinguish those numbers on some models, and which I strongly prefer over the models that use the same size indices for 1-11. Date frames may be passe for some, but I don't think that any watch with applied indices looks quite right without one- especially if the date window replaces an hour marker at 3 or 6. The date is also perfectly aligned with the hour markers, making it clear that the 37mm case is optimal for the 9s65 movement. Minutes are printed with no fractional markers in between to clutter things up. The "too high, too low" logo and text actually look fantastic in the flesh. For me they free up room for the hands to be appreciated against a black backdrop, which is something that I didn't think of just looking at photos. And whether I should care about what anybody else thinks about my watch or not, I like that it doesn't scream SEIKO from 5 feet away.

The casework is, as one would expect, also fantastic. Lines are razor sharp, and brushed and polished surfaces are flawless. The lugs are long, and are mercifully drilled for those who like to swap straps. They curve down slightly, never quite reaching the bottom of the caseback. The display back has a beaded design and the spec engravings bordering rear sapphire. The "Tokyo" stripes on the movement reflect light in ways my Omega and my Damasko could only dream of. The balance and one of the winding gears are really all that's visible- but that's more than what you can see on a Rolex. I wouldn't mind seeing some more color on the movement, but I'm a sucker for blued screws. The movement runs at or above industry standards for premium, factory produced automatics. It ticks away at 28,800 bph, and has a 72 hour power reserve. It's regulated by Seiko to slightly better than Swiss COSC standards. I've read that Seiko recommends service every three years- which is a bummer if true.

At 37mm it's small on me, but the long lugs and large signed crown help keep it from looking too small. On my 7.5" +/- wrist I'd prefer it to be 39mm or 40mm, but not at the expense of the perfect proportions of the dial or prominent crown. It is thick for it's diameter, about 13mm, but about two millimeters of that is the caseback, which sinks into the skin. It'll fit under a cuff just fine.

The 5 link brushed/polished bracelet looks as good on the wrist as my Omega bracelet did. It's scalloped for a nice touch of visual interest where it meets a polished portion of the case. It feels solid and of high quality, commensurate with the quality of the watch head (unlike reports of the MM300 feeling like a flimsy bracelet attached to a spectacular watch head). The milled, signed clasp is of obviously high quality. My only gripe, and it's a big one, is that there are no fine adjustments after the use of half links. For me the watch is a hair too snug, or a hair too loose. I wore it briefly both ways, and since the head isn't too big or heavy, I chose the looser fit for comfort. This required ALL of the links and both half links for my 7.5" wrist. There is also, obviously, no quick adjustment ala Rolex or IWC.

The verdict, from someone who has owned dozens of watches from about 20 different brands, is that this is a genuinely special watch, and quite possibly the finest watch I've owned. Getting a sporty dress watch right is a monumental undertaking. It needs to be simple without being austere; attractive but not blingy. This watch gets the balance just right. The two most significant negatives are the lack of bracelet fine adjustment and the short service intervals. For a split second I considered a DJ 116200, which wouldn't have either of those problems. But I would have been spending nearly 100% more up front (pre-owned pricing on both), and I would have been buying a watch that I didn't like the look of nearly as much as any Grand Seiko. I've been around the block too many times to swear this one's a keeper, but it's definitely a winner.









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## gvongies (Apr 3, 2018)

Great post, congrats on your purchase! Was looking at this particular GS myself as I definitely want to go black dial for it. Just a matter of time...


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## taulpaul123 (Jul 23, 2018)

Thank you for this. I've been considering a Grand Seiko for a while now. May have to bite the bullet soon


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## gviddy (May 4, 2018)

Great review!

I have unfortunately yet to visit a GS showroom. So many people talk about the exceptional finishing on these watches, but it seems like a hard thing to truly describe. 
37mm is a truly timeless size. 

Cheers and enjoy!


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## whineboy (Aug 12, 2012)

Excellent review, thank you. I'm glad you are so happy with your lovely watch.

On the GS subforum many of us feel the recommended 3 year service interval is quite conservative and 4-5 is more likely. Come visit us (I don't recall seeing your username before, apologies if you're already involved)!


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## AustinOX (Aug 23, 2009)

whineboy said:


> Excellent review, thank you. I'm glad you are so happy with your lovely watch.
> 
> On the GS subforum many of us feel the recommended 3 year service interval is quite conservative and 4-5 is more likely. Come visit us (I don't recall seeing your username before, apologies if you're already involved)!


Thanks for the invite!

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## dannyking (Feb 9, 2013)

AustinOX said:


> I've been buying and selling watches for about 11 years now. I finally purchased my grail last year- and I'd have saved a lot of money if I'd done it sooner. Unfortunately it's a massive Breitling Avenger Seawolf, and it literally has to be stuffed under a cuff. I've got no problem with anyone who wants to wear a big diver with a suit, but my personal preference is for something dressier. I also know that a Bambino would work like a charm, but I like wearing something special if I'm putting on a suit.
> 
> In the past I've worn fliegers when I was getting dressed up. I eventually bought a Concord Mariner Diver as a dress watch. It was fantastic, and I should have never sold it- but even though it punched way above it's weight class and was ultra thin for a dive watch, I didn't have any illusions that it was otherwise particularly special.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the review. I wanted one and was in the go/no-go dilemma vs the Omega Aqua Terra and you have swinged my preference.

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## AustinOX (Aug 23, 2009)

dannyking said:


> Thanks for the review. I wanted one and was in the go/no-go dilemma vs the Omega Aqua Terra and you have swinged my preference.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You won't regret it. The Omega was a really nice watch, but the GS is positively bewitching.

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## jsg199 (May 15, 2018)

Congrats. Beautiful watch. And the size looks nice to me!


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## 14060 (Nov 27, 2010)

A beautiful watch. I'm seriously thinking about one myself!


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## AustinOX (Aug 23, 2009)

Nine months later and I like this watch even more than when I first received it. The dial and hands are mesmerizing. There's just no other way to put it. No plans to let this one go- and there's not much higher praise a serial flipper can give. 

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## Norwegianwatchdude (Aug 3, 2018)

Thank you for a brilliant review and post, my 7,4” wrist remains assured that the 053/253 is the ONE..
I’ve got a Sumo, SBDC063 BabyMM and a Shogun, and IT’S TIME FOR THE DRESSY SEIKO!

Bought a SARB033 last week and sold it in 6 hours without the plastic off, after watching Bruce Williams’ old 053-review.

This just sealed it, THANKS.


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## AustinOX (Aug 23, 2009)

Norwegianwatchdude said:


> Thank you for a brilliant review and post, my 7,4" wrist remains assured that the 053/253 is the ONE..
> I've got a Sumo, SBDC063 BabyMM and a Shogun, and IT'S TIME FOR THE DRESSY SEIKO!
> 
> Bought a SARB033 last week and sold it in 6 hours without the plastic off, after watching Bruce Williams' old 053-review.
> ...


You won't regret it

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## hendryyyy (Oct 21, 2018)

Great watch! Congrats! 

I’m seriously considering SBGX261 vs SBGR253. 

On one hand I love an accurate watch with one of the best quartz movement, with less maintenance and obviously a much cheaper option (sbgx) 
but on the other I prefer a mechanical watch, but will be more troublesome in the long run with its servicing interval time...plus the shipping fees / import fees in and out of Japan. Could be a nightmare.

Dilemma dilemma


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## Norwegianwatchdude (Aug 3, 2018)

hendryyyy said:


> Great watch! Congrats!
> 
> I'm seriously considering SBGX261 vs SBGR253.
> 
> ...


Well.. I have Equal dilemmas on the import tax issue, but the solution would be to buy a NICE pre-owned one, then spend on a full factory service and re-polish.
BOOM, still a lot of Money saved on a New one, just be picky and you'll find a Nice one..


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## AustinOX (Aug 23, 2009)

I almost always recommend buying pre-owned, and it's definitely a good idea with most Grand Seikos. They are a bargain compared to other brands at new pricing, but expect them to be worth 30% less the next day. I definitely lucked out with a 2 week old example that was nearly flawless.

One downside is that you may get honked at because you're looking at this when the light turns green:









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## tag189psu (Oct 31, 2016)

I’ve had pretty good experiences buying JDM watches - import isn’t really an issue for US buyers. When I lived in Europe, it was a nightmare...


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## Renaissance Reddy (Dec 22, 2012)

Great writeup. Solid bang for the buck with this piece.


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## Norwegianwatchdude (Aug 3, 2018)

Renaissance Reddy said:


> Great writeup. Solid bang for the buck with this piece.


Well, thanks to some super advice here, Omicron in Tokyo offered me a pre-owned SBGR 053, and DAMN, pre-owned obviously means something entirely different in Japan than here in Europe...
It is absolutely Flawess from 2017 With a full set, everything from the test certificate to the in-box rice paper wrapping.

5 days from Tokyo and saved on the import duty with some good invoicing.

Never had a better finished watch in my hands.


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## kennkez (Jun 5, 2018)

Beautiful watch with the correct dimensions on a case


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## gunners123 (Jan 20, 2019)

Very nice watch congrats! Up there with my favourite Grand Seikos


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## Norwegianwatchdude (Aug 3, 2018)

gunners123 said:


> Very nice watch congrats! Up there with my favourite Grand Seikos


Only thing it's so damn Perfect I'm scared to take it out of the Box.. .


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## AustinOX (Aug 23, 2009)

Norwegianwatchdude said:


> gunners123 said:
> 
> 
> > Very nice watch congrats! Up there with my favourite Grand Seikos
> ...


Hopefully you've worn it by now!


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## SCRAPPYDO (Dec 29, 2016)

any grand seiko is done so well, it always seems like it is too nice to treat with anything but felt gloves. Truth is they need to be worn and enjoyed. Think of yourself as a brand ambassedeur


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## WatchEater666 (May 27, 2019)

Grand Seiko is amazing and your watch looks great. I enjoyed the write up! Thanks!


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## ImprezaMan (Jul 12, 2016)

This thread really makes me wants to go for a pre-owned sbgr053.....


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## Norwegianwatchdude (Aug 3, 2018)

ImprezaMan said:


> This thread really makes me wants to go for a pre-owned sbgr053.....


I'm still blown away by mine - taking off the Tudor Black Bay and opening the GS Box I know who's the Daddy, highly highly recommended...


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## SkiMon (Mar 3, 2013)

Thanks for the review and pictures. I really enjoyed it. I think this might become a new Grail for me.

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## ybw89 (Aug 30, 2018)

i recently had a 40mm spring drive, 44GS case (SBGA375) but let it go because it was abit big on my 6.3inch wrists. Now i'm looking at this. OP is this one a keeper?


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## Vishnunath (Sep 12, 2019)

Excellent review and beautiful watch. thank you.


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