# Ball Engineer II Marvelight



## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

Well I have been obsessing over this watch for a few years now and have been waiting for the right used one with a full set to come along. I knew I wanted to go used so I didnt take the big hit since I get tired of watches and tend to rotate them out always looking for that next perfect watch. I received this 2 days back now and have a few comments and questions.

First, I love this watch. The size for my 7-1/4" wrist its the perfect size at 40mm. I love high polished items so this is a natural. The High polish with the satin combo is incredible. I also really like the bracelet which I have read a few negative comments on. I like how its different and very robust and enjoy the different 3D aspect to it. I have a few high end watches (Rolex's) and it compares equally with them with the exception of the bracelet ends which are not quite as refined. However for the price point I would expect that and I actually think there well done and a bargain at this price. The bracelet comfort level is better than my Rolex.

I am not a fan of the caseback design but get it with the heritage to Webb C Ball. I wish there was a option for a clear caseback for my watch even though it isnt a very elaborate movement. I love the deep black on the dial and the tritium blocked indices look great raised up high and I like how they take on the color of the tubes during direct sun light. The magnifier is a little weaker than my Rolex's but it works as intended.

Now when I make a purchase like this I try to read as many reviews as possible and also watch as many of the youtube videos as possible. To say I was highly intrigued to have a watch with tritium indices was a understatement. What I didnt know till now is alot of guys use a UV light to show off and enhance there ball tritium indices. So after my watch arrived 2 days back I was really looking forward to night time viewing. Now mind you I have seen many pictures of the lume and videos on youtube so I knew what to expect. Especially having a few tritium night sites on my firearms and tritium in a few spinners I have.

So I get into my bedroom going to bed and am having a hard time reading the time. I am 60 years old so I put on my cheaters and can barely make out the time with them on. I give it a half hour and also did a 3am pit stop and it wasnt much better. Very faint time legibility. Now I know all about tritium and the color spectrum's with green being the best and blue not so much. But in my mind I had it built up to be so much more.

So my watch has a date of 8-15 on the warranty card so I am no where near half life at 4+ years old. I am assuming my watch is about where it was as new brightness wise do to it not being that old. I am attaching a picture that is similar to what I am looking at in total darkness. Since I have never owned a tritium tubed watch I am looking for advice from the Ball experts on if my watch is normal brightness or not? I would assume it should be brighter but maybe I was expecting too much and have read online guys with similar comments? I have played around for a hour getting the picture as close as possible to what I am looking at and in person it may be a tad better than my picture where you can see a little of the green hands. But its close.

I plan on keeping the watch because its awesome! If the tritium brightness if way low I would send it into Ball for a redo. If its normal I will just enjoy it as is. But I am looking for input from the guys that have alot of experience with Ball watches.

Many Thanks in advance. Still very excited to finally be in the Ball family. b-)


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## PetrosD (Jun 18, 2017)

The Marvelight has been on my want list for a while, but I haven't seen such poor lume like that. I have an Engineer III Endurance from 2017 with similar indices and it lights up really well.


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## timefleas (Oct 10, 2008)

The lume does appear to be weak, especially since the hands can't be seen--however, it is also clear that the picture itself is extremely dark, which may mean simply too short of duration, or too stopped down on the aperture. What you want is a picture where there is still some dial visible--then you can see how strong or light the actual lume is.


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## Nokie (Jul 4, 2011)

Once your eyes adjust, it becomes easier to read.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

The picture is dark because I am in a completely dark closet with no light. It was taken with a cell phone. If I have any light in the area it lights the indices up like there on fire in the cell phone camera viewer which is a distortion of what it really looks like. It took a while to get the picture like that and in real life its a tad brighter with the green hands barely visible. It also doesnt matter how long your in darkness. I woke up at 3am after sleeping for 5 hours to take a pee. The visual then was only slightly better than this picture.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

Short youtube video.


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Hi Jim, here are a couple of shots from mine which was originally sold in May. No issues. FWIW, my photo were taken using an iPhone supported by a drinking glass in automatic mode. They were taken yesterday morning. It's funny that a night mine has almost indistinguishable colors but in the dark photo the coloration is very obvious.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

Congrats, you have a bright one there. I have the same night time effect with Blue and Green blending together and hard to tell apart. Mine doesnt look anything like yours though in the brightness department. I am going to call Ball USA in St Petersburg FL tomorrow and find out what can be done. From everything I have read online it seems like I am in for a long road to recovery.


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## timefleas (Oct 10, 2008)

Jim Smyth said:


> The picture is dark because I am in a completely dark closet with no light. It was taken with a cell phone. If I have any light in the area it lights the indices up like there on fire in the cell phone camera viewer which is a distortion of what it really looks like. It took a while to get the picture like that and in real life its a tad brighter with the green hands barely visible. It also doesnt matter how long your in darkness. I woke up at 3am after sleeping for 5 hours to take a pee. The visual then was only slightly better than this picture.


I think the cell phone explains it (and the video really doesn't help much). Basically, night lumes, and how they are shown in pictures, are more at the mercy of how the camera is operated, than the actual lume. See, for example, the three pictures below, taken of the same watch, in the same darkness, but with different aperture and/or speed settings--I could have taken one more completely black, but it is the same watch, in the same closet. The second picture is probably the one closest to what my eyes see after a half hour or so. I will be interested to hear what transpires with your conversation with Ball--best of luck!


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

I understand about the pictures and tried to explain that in my first post. It took me quite a while to get a picture (at least a hour) doing various pics to get one that was close to what I actually see in a dark environment. Your 3rd picture would be what mine looks like with a dark room and adjusted eyes. I will report back when I hear from Ball and I also reached out to Bonding in Hong Kong to see if they rework these tubes. Just in case I great some crazy numbers from Ball.


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## MegaloMajik (Jul 24, 2014)

Hard to say on the lume. My first tritium watch came with expectations of torchlike brightness judging from the pictures both official and unofficial. The reality was that the actual brightness was about 1/10 of what the pictures claimed. I got used to it and grew to appreciate the level of luminosity which proved to be enough for me. I've had about 6 difference t-tube watches, and the ones with flat tubes were always the dimmest.
My Ball that I sold to a friend last year (Trainmaster Eternity) had thin tubes and quite the conservative amount compared to most of Balls offerings but they were quite bright little tubes, the majority being blue with an orange 12 o'clock.
I've been told many times that Ball does in fact do tube replacements.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

Thanks, Thats exactly where I am at and what I have may be normal. I dont know because I havent had one before. I am contemplating buying another exact watch only this time brand new to see if its any brighter. That says how much I like this watch and want it to glow strongly. May even keep both and use one as more of a beater where it cant get banged up and put it on a rubber band and keep the other one pristine. Time will tell......


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Jim, by any chance do you have the original warranty and BOS? Mine, which I purchased used, came with both at a bit of an upcharge over those without; also mine came out of Japan. In the US I understand warranty follows the watch and not the owner. Please let me know what they say as well. Also I have no issue reading mine in the dark. I can even read it easily while driving at night.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

I received a email back from a Raymond Li from Bonding. Here is there web page if anyone ever needs tritium work done and doesnt want to go through Ball.

Bonding

He sent me a interesting brochure that had alot more tritium info in it. I am going to attach a few pictures to kinda show tritium decay over the years and brightness levels of colors.

He said they can replace the tubes. Only issue is the tubes are mounted in one of two ways. Either taped or glued. If there glued they have to use solvent and he said that will damage the dial. Costs can range from $150-$400 plus shipping both ways.

So after looking at all the graphs it seems a 4-5 year old watch is at about 60-70% brightness level. So it looks like I am going to buy a new model today and most likely send the older one down the Ebay route or I may keep it and put it on a rubber band. (will sell cheaper if anyones interested) Time will tell and when the second one shows up I will take comparison pics for everyones benefit.

If anyone is interested I will forward the email to you with the attachment but I will need your email to do this. Just send it to me via a PM and I will forward all info over.

Cheers, Jim


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Did you contact Ball; what did they say? Also, FWIW, purchasing new doesn't guarantee the age of the tritium tubes. Some watches can sit for years before they're sold.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

Mine was a full set with the warranty card dated 8-15. I like and try to only buy full sets. I sent a email to Ball at there St Petersburg location which I am now reading is no longer a Ball distributor as of this spring. Jeff Hess was the CEO and I may try to follow that up with a call but this week is getting nuts with Christmas. This new watch is a new model number (BALL NM2026C-S23J-BK) with the 904L steel so its very current. Has a different type clasp (no round RR) and the second hand does not have a tritium tube in it.


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Jim Smyth said:


> Mine was a full set with the warranty card dated 8-15. I like and try to only buy full sets. I sent a email to Ball at there St Petersburg location which I am now reading is no longer a Ball distributor as of this spring. Jeff Hess was the CEO and I may try to follow that up with a call but this week is getting nuts with Christmas. This new watch is a new model number (BALL NM2026C-S23J-BK) with the 904L steel so its very current. Has a different type clasp (no round RR) and the second hand does not have a tritium tube in it.


Thanks you for clarifying regarding the newer design; that's what mine is like as well. Good luck in getting this taken care of. Currently wearing mine!!!


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

Will be interesting to get side by side comparison pics of new verse 4-5 years old tritium brightness on the same model. It shows I wont have the second one till January 8th or there abouts. But when it gets in I will definitely take pics and post them here.


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## timefleas (Oct 10, 2008)

You guys might be interested in this. First, with regard to Ball and reluming, if off warranty, the cost is $15-$20 per tube (type and length vary), but they usually require a complete service at around $400 or so, added to the lume cost (plus 3 or 4 months, on average). Raymond Li (Bonding) charges about the same for the tubes, and, I had him do my flagship, the Trainmaster Flying Scotsman, after a service center broke a couple of the tubes (his turnaround was less than a month). Below is a straight shot of three different Ball watches of different lume ages--the brightest is of course the newest, the relumed Scotsman (on the left), age of lume when this photo was taken was about 2 years, the middle watch is the original Fireman, circa 2005, so it is about 13 going on 14 in this photo, and the one on the right is a Cannonball, produced about 10 or 11 years ago. All are equally great, even now, in night situations, and no issue regarding which one I take if I want to see the time in the dark--the Fireman is surprisingly legible, even it its old age.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

timefleas, I had already read all your posts and its where I got the Bonding name from. I then sent them the email and got info back. Ya a re tube isnt in the works for my 2015 watch especially with a new one inbound. I am always looking for the next last watch and maybe this will be it. I will most likely sell the Old Marvelight but also and thinking of selling a Rolex GMT and maybe keeping both Balls. We will see what happens after the new ones arrives.


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## timefleas (Oct 10, 2008)

Jim Smyth said:


> timefleas, I had already read all your posts and its where I got the Bonding name from. I then sent them the email and got info back. Ya a re tube isnt in the works for my 2015 watch especially with a new one inbound. I am always looking for the next last watch and maybe this will be it. I will most likely sell the Old Marvelight but also and thinking of selling a Rolex GMT and maybe keeping both Balls. We will see what happens after the new ones arrives.


Of course I knew _you _had read my earlier posts--I had the generalized Ball "community" in mind when I posted the above--for the rest of the folks contributing to this thread and for those readers who come across this thread with similar questions, but with no prior history. Best of luck, as always.


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

timefleas said:


> You guys might be interested in this. First, with regard to Ball and reluming, if off warranty, the cost is $15-$20 per tube (type and length vary), but they usually require a complete service at around $400 or so, added to the lume cost (plus 3 or 4 months, on average). Raymond Li (Bonding) charges about the same for the tubes, and, I had him do my flagship, the Trainmaster Flying Scotsman, after a service center broke a couple of the tubes (his turnaround was less than a month). Below is a straight shot of three different Ball watches of different lume ages--the brightest is of course the newest, the relumed Scotsman (on the left), age of lume when this photo was taken was about 2 years, the middle watch is the original Fireman, circa 2005, so it is about 13 going on 14 in this photo, and the one on the right is a Cannonball, produced about 10 or 11 years ago. All are equally great, even now, in night situations, and no issue regarding which one I take if I want to see the time in the dark--the Fireman is surprisingly legible, even it its old age.


I'm surprised that it isn't cheaper to get a new dial as opposed to replacing individual lumes and potentially ruining the dial during disassembly.


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## Sparrowhawk (May 22, 2006)

hogwldfltr said:


> Jim, by any chance do you have the original warranty and BOS? Mine, which I purchased used, came with both at a bit of an upcharge over those without; also mine came out of Japan. In the US I understand warranty follows the watch and not the owner. Please let me know what they say as well. Also I have no issue reading mine in the dark. I can even read it easily while driving at night.


My understanding is that this is not the case regarding the warranty. Even in the US, the warranty for a Ball watch is only valid for the original owner. That is, unless things have changed drastically.


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Well here is the warranty as stated on line:

BALL International Warranty
Built to exceed traditional Swiss watchmaking standards, your BALL watch is warranted by Ball Watch Company, Inc. for a period of twenty-four months from the date of purchase under the terms and conditions of this warranty. You are cordially invited to register at our web site www.ballwatch.com during the initial 24-month period after purchase for free extended twelve months warranty to effectively cover your BALL watch by a total of thirty-six months warranty period. The international warranty covers material and manufacturing defects. The warranty will only be valid when the warranty card is dated, fully and correctly completed and stamped by a BALL Authorized Dealer. During the warranty period and by presenting the valid warranty card, you are entitled to have any manufacturing defect repaired free of charge. In the event that repairs are unable to restore the normal conditions, Ball Watch Company, Inc. guarantees its replacement by a BALL watch of identical or similar characteristics. The warranty for the replacement watch ends twenty-four months after the date of replacement of the replaced watch.
The international warranty does not extend to the bracelet or glass nor does it cover any damage done to the watch and the movement by humidity entering the watch because of a handling error. The normal wear and tear and aging of the watch will not be covered under this warranty. We reserve the right to relinquish all responsibilities under this guarantee for repair if the watch is tampered with or damaged by unauthorized persons other than BALL Authorized Service Centers.


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Jim Smyth said:


> Will be interesting to get side by side comparison pics of new verse 4-5 years old tritium brightness on the same model. It shows I wont have the second one till January 8th or there abouts. But when it gets in I will definitely take pics and post them here.


Are you getting the Engineer II or III out of curiosity? I know that the three is a 904L model. I actually have the NM2026C-S10J-BK. I'm not certain what the difference is between this and the S20J. Does anyone know how these watches are spec'd? Also, Merry Christmas to all the forum members!!!!


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## lovebandit (Oct 11, 2010)

I always read that it was not transferable. Now I am not sure??

see: https://www.watchuseek.com/f239/ball-watch-warranties-transferable-4883677.html


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

Merry Christmas to all.

I am getting mine through a US Ball AD. Its listed as a II but I think thats in error and that its actually a III. They list it as 904L steel with the associated new model number and the stock picture like yours is a T25 image model which means its a Euro model limited to <25 on the total tritium scale.

Mine is coming from a US AD so I am assuming mine will be the T model which is 25> - <100 total tritium. The watch is like 45 minutes from me right now and is shown to be delivered tomorrow the 26th. I leave town for 5 days on the 27th so I probably wont get comparison pics up prior to leaving. But will at some point.


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Jim Smyth said:


> Merry Christmas to all.
> 
> I am getting mine through a US Ball AD. Its listed as a II but I think thats in error and that its actually a III. They list it as 904L steel with the associated new model number and the stock picture like yours is a T25 image model which means its a Euro model limited to <25 on the total tritium scale.
> 
> Mine is coming from a US AD so I am assuming mine will be the T model which is 25> - <100 total tritium. The watch is like 45 minutes from me right now and is shown to be delivered tomorrow the 26th. I leave town for 5 days on the 27th so I probably wont get comparison pics up prior to leaving. But will at some point.


Do you happen to know the model number? Congratulations and Merry Christmas!!!


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

hogwldfltr said:


> Do you happen to know the model number? Congratulations and Merry Christmas!!!


Yes, its listed as NM2026C-S23J-BK which is the newest Marvelight model.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

OK the New watch arrived today and I have some time so here's the comparison. The watch on the left is the New watch with the T25 designation. The watch on the right is dated 8-15 with a T designation. The tritium tubes on the new watch are shorter length wise on the hour indices and also on the Hour and Minute hands. The new one glows about 25-30% brighter which corresponds to the decay rate from the chart I got from bonding for a 4-5 year old watch.

The new one is actually for the European market hence the less tritium designation with T25. The dealer I got it from which was on Ebay and claimed to be a Ball AD out of the US East Coast and he blacked out the dealer name on the warranty card so he obviously got it from somewhere else other than the normal distribution chain. Maybe because there's no US distributor any more with Jess Hess out of the picture?

Other differences are the clasp with the missing Ball round ball in the center of the new model. Also the bracelet is ever so slightly thinner on the Euro model. The Old US bracelet is 20mm between the lugs and also 20mm at the clasp. The Euro model is 20mm at the lugs and 18mm at the clasp. The Old US model is 177g weight wise and the New one is 174g. Not much of a difference but accounts for the tapered bracelet.

I like the brighter tubes for sure on the New one and I am sure the other changes will grow on me. Now for some pictures. Cheers, Jim


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Congratulations on the new Marvelight. Is it the NM2026C-S23J-BK or the NM2026C-S10J-BK. What is the date on the card? Also do you know if it is 904L or 316L steel? I've contacted Ball asking for the build specs for my S10J. FWIW, I like the new bracelet.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

hogwldfltr said:


> Congratulations on the new Marvelight. Is it the NM2026C-S23J-BK or the NM2026C-S10J-BK. What is the date on the card? Also do you know if it is 904L or 316L steel? I've contacted Ball asking for the build specs for my S10J. FWIW, I like the new bracelet.


The hang tag and warranty both show NM2026C-S23J-BK. The case back of the watch has 904L engraved. There is no date on the card so I wrote todays date in myself. I ended up calling them to see whats up with the sharpie through the dealers name. They told me they have to get the watches from overseas and the last shipment half of it went missing. So they sent another batch quickly to them for the Holidays. He told me I am in there system for warranty work if needed and if I wanted another card they would send one. So I assume they got someone elses allocation with stamped cards that they blacked out. Not a big deal to me since its a lower cost watch that I dont plan on getting rid of.


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## Planetocean250 (Aug 10, 2018)

Jim since you own both the Marvelight II and III do you notice any real differences between the polished surfaces and steel color of the 904L and 316L models. 904L is suppose to polish to a higher shine but is this actually the case or is the change to 904L more of a selling feature that doesnt offer any real upgrades to the 316L version. Cheers.


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## Jim Smyth (Jul 10, 2013)

I sold the Marvelight II so I just have the III now. There was a difference between the 2 regarding the finish but both looked great and unless you have both side by side theirs no way to see the difference. The 904L is used by Rolex so I am sure thats why Ball and others are using it too. Supposedly better resistance to the elements. In the real world we would never know.

Interesting fact is I also have a Rolex DD40. It and my Marvelight share the exact same dimensions meaning watch width and dial width are identical. The ball is slightly thicker but both watches wear identical. Its too much of a coincidence IMO and I am not sure which one was introduced first. But with that being said the Ball is a smoking bargain for getting a Stainless Rolex like watch with great build quality for what amounts to under what you would pay in tax for a Rolex.


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## hogwldfltr (Sep 2, 2012)

Jim Smyth said:


> I sold the Marvelight II so I just have the III now. There was a difference between the 2 regarding the finish but both looked great and unless you have both side by side theirs no way to see the difference. The 904L is used by Rolex so I am sure thats why Ball and others are using it too. Supposedly better resistance to the elements. In the real world we would never know.
> 
> Interesting fact is I also have a Rolex DD40. It and my Marvelight share the exact same dimensions meaning watch width and dial width are identical. The ball is slightly thicker but both watches wear identical. Its too much of a coincidence IMO and I am not sure which one was introduced first. But with that being said the Ball is a smoking bargain for getting a Stainless Rolex like watch with great build quality for what amounts to under what you would pay in tax for a Rolex.
> 
> View attachment 14884127


Although not a DD40 or even a DJ41, I like it more than my old DJII. Mine is currently in the shop having its timing adjusted. It's a great watch even running 15secs per day fast.


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