# Hands-on and in-depth with the new Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm watches at Topper



## robattopper

The Zenith El Primero Caliber 400 is one of the most important manufacture mechanical movements of our time. It has been Zenith's signature movement, which has been used since 1969, and has been deployed in chronographs from many different brands over the years, including the Rolex Daytona for just over a decade between the mid-eighties and the year 2000. Now that the Caliber 400 is utilized exclusively by Zenith, the brand is deploying it where the movement ultimately belongs: as the centerpiece of the Chronomaster collection, in a wide variety of both modern and vintage-inspired executions.

Today, we're excited to present finally the new Chronomaster El Primero 38mm watches (reference 2150) at Topper. The most popular modern application of the chronograph movement at Topper Fine Jewelers has been the 03.2150.400/69.C713. While this watch used to be referred to as the "El Primero Original 1969", It has now been rebranded as part of the "Chronomaster" collection. While the name change may have slipped by you, you are more likely to have noticed that this year the dial underwent some subtle changes. This post takes a look at how the dial has changed, and also looks at some of the other variants of the 38mm El Primero for 2017.









_The Caliber 400 is visible through the Chronomaster's exhibition caseback._

More often than not, a 're-issue,' or a reproduction of a vintage edition is done so using a brand new, or fully modern movement. In the case of the Chronomaster El Primero 38mm, the modern, and the original variants are essentially using the same column wheel-actuated movement which beats at 36,000 VPH or 10 beats per second. For those wanting a more modern movement for 2017, the 100 beat per second El Primero 21 is just starting to hit stores. In addition, next year will mark the commercial adaptation of the revolutionary Defy Lab collection which features an entirely new type of escapement. The caliber 400 in the chronomaster is about maintaining the heritage of a movement that was revolutionary in the sixties for laying claim to the title of the first automatic chronograph.









_Presenting the new Chronomaster El Primero on the left, and the outgoing variant on the right._

Generally speaking, when a watch undergoes cosmetic differences but the reference number doesn't change, brands refer to it as an "in line change." That's what we have with the 03.2150.400/69.C713 for 2017. As it was before, it is still the 03.2150.400/69.C71

Here is a photo of the outgoing reference:









_Note the larger overlap on the outgoing 38mm Chronomaster, and the text on the subdial at 6:00_

...And now, a photo of the new version:









_Here, we have minimal subdial overlap, and a dial that more closely emulates the original from 1969_

For 2017, Zenith subtly updated a few key points of the Chronomaster with the aim of boosting legibility, and simplifying the dial - both changes that bring the watch closer than ever to the original. For starters, text on the dial has been removed: the "automatic" callout across the six o'clock subdial, as well as the "36,000 VpH" line below twelve o'clock.









_A closer look at the dial on the new 38mm Chronomaster El Primero_

Also noteworthy is how the hours register on the new variants is now 'beneath' the small seconds and minute registers at three and nine o'clock, and all three subdials are now smaller. The slightly overlapping subdials has always been a signature of the El Primero tricolor series, but in the previous layout, the minute registers were obscured by the hour register between 16 and 23 minutes making the watch less functional for those wishing to measure time with the chronograph. It's a nice update - and one that directly addresses those who saw the overlap as more of a distraction, than a pleasant visual quirk of the design.









_The outgoing 38mm Chronomaster El Primero on a 6.5" wrist_









_...and now the new 38mm Chronomaster El Primero on a 6.5" wrist_









_At only 12mm thick, the 38mm Chronomaster wears quite compact for a chronograph_

With more and more of our guests at Topper choosing watches under 40mm, the 38mm 12mm thick 03.2150.400/69.C713 has been our most popular watch this fall at this price point. The in-line change has not altered the price as it remains at $6,700 retail on a strap and $7,100 on a bracelet.

There have been many other subtle changes and evolutions to other design configurations of the Chronomaster line this year. If you are interested in learning more about the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster collection, or have questions about the availability of this dial layout in other models, we'd welcome you to inquire by calling Topper Jewelers at *888-730-2221* or emailing *[email protected]*.










_Photos by aBlogtoWatch contributor Zach Pina. Follow him on Instagram._


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## EnderW

Whether old dial, or the new one... it's still one of the most beautiful watches ever made.


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## psbero

I much prefer the new version. Seemingly insignificant changes have made the dial so much cleaner and more attractive in my opinion. The smaller sub-dials make the chrono much more usable and frees up a lot of extra space on the dial. And the lack of 'automatic' and '36,000 vph' text just takes it that extra mile imo.


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## soaking.fused

Outstanding write-up, Rob!

Thanks for taking the time review this amazing Zenith. These pics are exquisite and really help showcase the changes between outgoing and new model 38.

I really fancy both dials. In fact, there are small details about each that I like and prefer to one another.



EnderW said:


> Whether old dial, or the new one... it's still one of the most beautiful watches ever made.
> View attachment 12641485


Absolutely agree. Marvelous wrist shot.


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## lightspire

Excellent photos and a very interesting post! The new Chronomaster El Primero 38mm is an all-time classic. Thank you.


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## dinexus

Man, I’ve been resisting an El Primero for ages now. This is... Not helping. 


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## vincesf

Rob:

Great article and the changes are more apparent when you show the watches displayed side by side. Very much appreciated.


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## dinexus

EnderW said:


> Whether old dial, or the new one... it's still one of the most beautiful watches ever made.
> View attachment 12641485


Couldn't agree more - the quirks make it iconic. Great shot too!

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## Nathan356

Thanks for the review! Love the new subdial layout, I think this will be my next watch...


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## DolleDolf

El Primero in cursive would have been the icing ......


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## mitar98

Beautiful watch. I am really upset, though, with what Zenith has done with the new El Primero 21. Its basically a Hublot with a fantastic movement. Wish they hadn't done that, but that may sell watches...


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## achilles

Very beautiful! This very well might be my next watch acquisition. Kudos to Rob for an excellent write-up!

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## simplymod

The new dial layout is def a big improvement in keeping with the original. All Beautiful though!


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## mumblypeg

Great write up and comparison. Been looking at it off and on for awhile now. Still don't know if I have a preference for old or new, they're both fantastic.


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