# Changing a polished steel for brushed finish?



## narcosynthesis (Dec 28, 2009)

Hopefully a simple question, so here goes...

I have a pretty cheap and basic Citizen BM8180, which comes with certain faces of the case with a brushed steel finish, and others polished. Given the look of the watch and my own preferences, I would quite like to 'brush' the polished faces of the case so that the whole watch has the same finish to it (potentially refinishing the already brushed faces to match up with the newly brushed ones, since I will presumably get a different finish doing this DIY rather than on the factory machine.

The question is then, what do I need to do this, and how hard will it be? Is it a fairly simple process doable by a pleb with enough time and care?


----------



## Henry Hatem (Sep 28, 2006)

It depends on the "graining" you want to apply. If it is circular (assuming a round case) so the grain of the finish runs around the bezel you should use lathe. It can be done without but precise dexterity is the entrance fee to this technique. If you were touching up the brushed finish it could be done by hand but starting from a polished surface may be more difficult pending the depth, finish and consistency of graining you want. Not covering every technique but here are a few options 

First - make sure your case is SS or the same metal all the way through - if it is plated you will just take the plating off leaving a huge mess. Of course if it were a precious metal you will be loosing money too.

The tools - lathe, sandpaper / polishing papers, scotchbrite or a rubberized (cratex) impregnated grit in differing grits. A brushed finish could also be done with grit blasting and even a chemical etch or grit paste. 

The case should be clean - and no movement or crystal - this allows full access to all areas and of course eliminates damage to the crystal etc. You are working with grit - fine grit is like powder and can work it's way into a case causing havoc.

For a beginner I would recommend sandpaper, it is easily obtainable in many grits and reasonably priced. Use a wet/dry type it is more durable pending your finish you can use it wet. I would start with 400grit and move up or down pending your desired finish. If you're looking for a very fine finish start with 600grit or scotchbrite type product. You can glue or double back tape a piece of the paper on a popcicle or acrylic stick with sharp edge to get into corners or work a straight grain down a lug or across the side of the body. The stick will provide a more even pressure over the work and allow better control of the graining marks. The rubberized grits can do the same and come in many shapes. For a rounded surface like a bezel you can hold the paper in your palm and press the case into the paper gently and turn the case on the paper. This will produce a more consistently curved grain. Other methods would be to place the paper on a soft rubber base and do the same. BE CAREFUL with this technique you can contact / damage other areas quite easily. In some cases it may be better to start with the bezel and then work the rest of the case and just a final touch up on the bezel when you're done. The idea is the rubber (palm) will conform more to the shape of the surface providing a more consistent grain.

Keep an eye on corners and edges - when they get rounded the case looses it's crispness. If you like rounded edges by all means go for it. 

I recommend you start without mechanical means (buffers, dremel etc.) done by hand you can proceed slowly and stop quicker if things start to go wrong. Of course a competent watchmaker could brush this case for you as well. 

Patience a steady hand and done incrementally with care you should be able to do it but of course I do not know your inherent talents in this area - so mileage may vary... let us know how it goes or if you need more detail.


----------



## narcosynthesis (Dec 28, 2009)

You can assume I have no tools whatsoever, since, well, I don't beyond basic hand tools and a powerdrill... 

Similarly I lack the equipment to cleanly remove the movement and crystal (and with an eco-drive movement, I don't really want to 'break the seal' as such unless necessary), could this be done by masking off the crystal and just being careful?

Beyond that, 400d grit (moving up or down depending on the desired finish), making sure to work to a set pattern depending on the 'shape' of brushing I would want, and be careful? Or would this really just ruin the watch to do it without properly preparing the case by removing the crystal and movement? It is safe to say that considering the value of the watch, I won't be bothering if it will start costing me once you add in fee's from a watchmaker and other bits...


----------



## gmillard (Sep 8, 2011)

Hi, I see you're in aberdeen. If you go to "the watch workshop" in aberdeen I'm sure one of my colleagues would be willing to do it for you for a small fee. It's a 5 minute job with the right tools!


----------



## narcosynthesis (Dec 28, 2009)

gmillard said:


> Hi, I see you're in aberdeen. If you go to "the watch workshop" in aberdeen I'm sure one of my colleagues would be willing to do it for you for a small fee. It's a 5 minute job with the right tools!


I will give them a shout and see what they say


----------



## Henry Hatem (Sep 28, 2006)

Yes you could mask off the areas you don't want touched. A polymide tape here would be the best but expensive. I can't stress the word careful enough. You do seem to have a very attractive offer from "the watch workshop" Thank you Gmillard.


----------



## gmillard (Sep 8, 2011)

Henry Hatem said:


> Yes you could mask off the areas you don't want touched. A polymide tape here would be the best but expensive. I can't stress the word careful enough. You do seem to have a very attractive offer from "the watch workshop" Thank you Gmillard.


You're more than welcome


----------



## narcosynthesis (Dec 28, 2009)

I checked out the watch workshop today, who were very helpful, but couldn't perform the modification for me - they can do it to simpler shaped pieces like bracelets, but due to the fact they use a larger block to get a flat and even finish, it makes it much trickier to evenly brush all the nooks and crannies of a case such as around the lugs and so on. 

I guess that leaves me back to the DIY option - 400 grit or similar sandpaper, and time and care put into making sure to get a good finish and follow the contours of the watch without straying or making a mess of it.


----------



## gmillard (Sep 8, 2011)

I know its a bit iffy with me having few posts but if you pm me then you could send it to my branch of the watch workshop in maidenhead although I understand if you'd rather.not


----------

