# Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM239 LIMITED EDITION FOR HODINKEE



## alan1219 (Oct 2, 2019)

One for our friends across the pond: restricted to US registered addresses only. HODINKEE x Grand Seiko
Better be quick, 500 pieces only. The blue is stunning, I have to say.


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## wildenkidu (Sep 2, 2020)

If I was in the market for another ~$5000 watch with only 30mm of WR, I think this would be it. I love the SBGM221 and I am surprised at how well this works as a sportier variation. I am a sucker for a good-looking bracelet and this monochromatic blue/steel colorway looks great on it. It also makes the date window less jarring than I find it on the 221 or 241. A lot will come down to how the dial looks in person. 

I would not have noticed the updated font if it was not pointed out.

Even as I type this, the more I like this release.


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## clerkpalmer (Dec 12, 2012)

Ugh. I love this piece but it's $5800 USD after tax and then there's the pressure of a Hodinkee release and deciding whether to pull the trigger before it's gone and the flippers get a hold of it. I'd love to put this bracelet on a sky flake. It's always hard to tell how these will look in person. Reminds me of a more reasonable pelagos


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## valuewatchguy (Jun 16, 2012)

clerkpalmer said:


> Ugh. I love this piece but it's $5800 USD after tax and then there's the pressure of a Hodinkee release and deciding whether to pull the trigger before it's gone and the flippers get a hold of it. I'd love to put this bracelet on a sky flake. It's always hard to tell how these will look in person. Reminds me of a more reasonable pelagos


Nice enough on par for GS. Not a knock down the doors FOMO piece, in my humble opinion. Plus what does the blue look like IRL? I'm still burned by the Blue Alpinist.


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## clerkpalmer (Dec 12, 2012)

valuewatchguy said:


> Nice enough on par for GS. Not a knock down the doors FOMO piece, in my humble opinion. Plus what does the blue look like IRL? I'm still burned by the Blue Alpinist.


Good description. It's lovely like virtually every GS these days. If I hadn't just purchased a SBGE255, this would be a contender. How many GS can one own? I'm not sure anyone can compete with the quality in the 5k to 6k space. Certainly not Omega or Rolex.


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## Nokie (Jul 4, 2011)

Looks very nice, but for that price and the fact that it is Hodinkee, I would keep shopping if I was looking for another GS, IMHO.


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## sticky (Apr 5, 2013)

You lucky Americans you.


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## rodian (Mar 13, 2018)

Wow! I love the muted grey font with the blue dial. I'm happy for the lucky 500 who will be buying. This might be my favourite Hodinkee collaboration release.


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## CRW161 (Feb 1, 2016)

Quite nice, but hasn't gone straight to the top of my list I'm afraid.


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## tacit (Jan 21, 2020)

My initial opinion:


Dial 

Caseback 

Case

Complications 

Trying to convert the SBGM221 to a sport watch by using a 3-link bracelet ? 

I know Grand Seiko has included 3-link bracelets on their Sport collection watches many times. I would also say that these bracelets are at home on these watches. But, on a dressy, classically-designed Grand Seiko GMT watch? What the hell? As WornAndWound put it I understand that this makes it more "wearable" or versatile to dress it down, but this watch deserves a fine leather strap in tune with the original design intent for the SBGM221.

I would immediately have the bracelet removed on this one and never touch it.


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## cwilo (Oct 18, 2016)

If this had the spring drive I'd be all over it. Although I think the 9R66 is larger than the 9S66, so there may have been a space issue.


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## cwilo (Oct 18, 2016)

tacit said:


> My initial opinion:
> 
> 
> Dial
> ...


2020 watch trends:

Blue dial ✅
Sports watch *✅*
Precious metal ❌
Bracelet *✅*
Honestly if this had a polished center link, like the Daytona bracelets, I think it would be much better. Already has a polished case.


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## tacit (Jan 21, 2020)

cwilo said:


> 2020 watch trends:
> 
> Blue dial ✅
> Sports watch *✅*
> ...


Quite possibly. I know that Hodinkee is simply trying to tick the trend boxes like you have mentioned here.

The Watches of Switzerland version kicks the s*** out of the Hodinkee version, if I'm being the most honest version of myself. Iwate dial, beautiful classically Grand Seiko color scheme (yellow is unique, but still feels naturally Grand Seiko) and at home on a dressier leather strap.


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## WastedYears (May 21, 2015)

1.5 hours later and it's still not sold out? Must be the date window.


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## DoraTheExplorerII (Dec 12, 2014)

WastedYears said:


> 1.5 hours later and it's still not sold out? Must be the date window.


It being Hodinkee I thought they would've removed the date.


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## wildenkidu (Sep 2, 2020)

DoraTheExplorerII said:


> It being Hodinkee I thought they would've removed the date.


Now that I would really be tempted to buy - though a GMT is the one setting where I feel the watch is less complete without some date complication.


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## valuewatchguy (Jun 16, 2012)

tacit said:


> The Watches of Switzerland version kicks the s*** out of the Hodinkee version, if I'm being the most honest version of myself. Iwate dial, beautiful classically Grand Seiko color scheme (yellow is unique, but still feels naturally Grand Seiko) and at home on a dressier leather strap.


That one was $5200.....yeah that would be my choice too!


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## tacit (Jan 21, 2020)

valuewatchguy said:


> That one was $5200.....yeah that would be my choice too!


You're correct and it's still available surprisingly enough, Just look at that dial 😲😲😲


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## Bizcut1 (Jan 1, 2014)

That beautiful finishing and artisan attention to detail. I'm sure it's a lovely watch to wear but, ultimately, for me the lack of lume
on a GMT watch for travel makes it an impractical piece. That dial is a killer though. Grand Seiko has really carved its own
signature and position in the market and have achieved a lot of deserved attention and brand equity in a short time. They are doing
it right, IMHO.


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## jskane (Mar 18, 2020)

I'm not convinced about that grey GMT hand ... it looks dull or "matt" if I'm being polite. I don't see how that works in the world of GS finishes.


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## tthien92 (Oct 7, 2019)

Going to do a hot take and say that I'm not all that impressed. If this watch wasn't limited to 500, I wouldn't even bat an eye. The blue dial grey text color scheme feels a bit stagnant and boring, especially for GS. In addition, it feels like this watch _wants _to be considered sporty like a diver, but I think other watches like the SLA037 and recently announced SLA043 are much better purchases with (most likely) a similar level of finishing and more interesting color.

Of course, it could look completely different in the metal, as most Seiko watches do, but from the video and stock images, it just looks like a blued-out SBGM221 that's more expensive due to the bracelet and collaboration, which kind of sucks because Hodinkee collaborations are generally good.


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## wrxdev (May 28, 2020)

At least it is cheaper and available compared to their impressive Travel Clock.


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## Cowboy Bebop (Jan 9, 2011)

wrxdev said:


> At least it is cheaper and available compared to their impressive Travel Clock.


Lol the clock made headlines...

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## LosAngelesTimer (Aug 24, 2017)

Given the Hodinkee connection, the price actually seems quite reasonable. As for the watch itself, I'm not sold on the pairing of the dressier case design with a sporty, chunky bracelet. It almost has an aftermarket feel - like something we'd see posted here, "Guys, you'd never guess that the bracelet for my sbge255 fits my sbgm021! What do you think?"


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## dealta66 (Oct 6, 2019)

Can’t justify the price for the specs. I don’t know much about hokindee but the asking price can get you so much better from Grand Seiko. Just a few hundred more will get you something from the seasons collection! 


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## greedy (Dec 19, 2017)

Dimensions: 39.5mm diameter; 13.7mm thickness
unnecessary thickness.
Regular or blue snowflake seem more compelling, with lower street prices.


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## John Price (Feb 21, 2011)

tacit said:


> Quite possibly. I know that Hodinkee is simply trying to tick the trend boxes like you have mentioned here.
> 
> The Watches of Switzerland version kicks the s*** out of the Hodinkee version, if I'm being the most honest version of myself. Iwate dial, beautiful classically Grand Seiko color scheme (yellow is unique, but still feels naturally Grand Seiko) and at home on a dressier leather strap.
> 
> ...


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## Ced Craig (Mar 31, 2020)

If I didn't already have the 221, this model or the green dial would make for some tough decision-making. The green dial would probably win.

Although the 221 is pretty thick at 13.7mm, it doesn't wear thick at all. And with most (all?) Grand Seikos, they look better in person than in photos, so I'll bet the blue and gray in this model look stunning on wrist.

Having micro adjustments on the bracelet is a requirement, so GS bracelets don't work for me.

With regard to sporting up the 221, I feel it works pretty well on a nice MN strap:


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## tacit (Jan 21, 2020)

Brandon Frazin of the Hodinkee Shop just posted this on Instagram. In my opinion, this already looks much better, especially with somewhat of a tie in to the GMT indices.


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## smalleq (Jul 15, 2014)

This watch definitely looks better on a strap.


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## Mbappe (May 13, 2020)

Beautiful watch, but I still prefer my SBGM221. I think mine has more character with the ivory dial and the blued GMT hand.
This Hodinkee release is appealing to the more sporty aspect of the watch. It's a very versatile piece.


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## Cowboy Bebop (Jan 9, 2011)

tacit said:


> Brandon Frazin of the Hodinkee Shop just posted this on Instagram. In my opinion, this already looks much better, especially with somewhat of a tie in to the GMT indices.
> 
> View attachment 15520887
> 
> ...


Looks like a nice Christmas watch but I spent my money on the SLGA001 lol

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## manofrolex (Jul 9, 2012)

I fell asleep a little staring at it


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## local_time (May 5, 2019)

The blue dial looks mesmerizing. Surprised it hasn’t been all snatched up by now


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## Domo (Sep 20, 2013)

This Hodinkee "collaboration" doesn't feel right. It would be better if the bracelet was machined out of the barrels of reclaimed Type 99 rifles, or maybe the crown fashioned from the cap of a maki-e Namiki pen that was found while wondering the busy streets of Ginza at dusk


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## JJ312 (Mar 9, 2019)

I love Grand Seiko and for the most part enjoy Hodinkee, but damn the end link fit of that bracelet is just not working. It's like they slapped an off-the-shelf bracelet on it with no regard to fit. The "unboxing video" they released really highlights this issue - very poor attention to detail!


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## G07 (Nov 20, 2008)

Nope - come on GS ...


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## Larsjeee (Jul 14, 2017)

Looks okay-ish, but like some have already pointed out, for that price I'd go a little up and get myself a High-Beat or a Spring Drive.


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## dealta66 (Oct 6, 2019)

Hard pass 8 hrs later. 


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## Lukebennett21 (Jan 21, 2020)

Assuming the oyster style bracelet is part number D3E7ABR in case anyone else is wondering. Looks like that has only been released on the SBGM023 previously.

Interesting that the bracelet is being described as a mismatched afterthought when it is actually from their historical catalog, aesthetics aside. Surprised Hodinkee didn’t specify that the “reached into the catalog” for inspiration.


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## WastedYears (May 21, 2015)

That grey just does not work on that dial imo.


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## s1gma (Jan 28, 2011)

The color looks like the exact same as the Blue Dreamer collaboration between Heuer and The Rake and Revolution


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## local_time (May 5, 2019)

sold out


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## JJ312 (Mar 9, 2019)

Lukebennett21 said:


> Assuming the oyster style bracelet is part number D3E7ABR in case anyone else is wondering. Looks like that has only been released on the SBGM023 previously.


I've seen this argument in other places now too that the bracelet is designed for the watch because it's been previously released and fair enough. But if it's not a design flaw then it's one of manufacturing, I mean c'mon look at this pic and tell me it's fine.





  








540C459C-1F59-4F78-8DC5-321FF83B79F6.jpeg




__
JJ312


__
Oct 28, 2020


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## Lukebennett21 (Jan 21, 2020)

I am most interested in knowing whether it will scratch the mid case or not. Otherwise I don’t mind the design too much. Other bracelets do show portions of the mid case but the mid case is usually stepped to reinforce the junction.


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## tokkodai (Sep 14, 2018)

love the sporty design and the details!
Only if it came with 100m WR to match the looks...


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## matthew P (Aug 1, 2013)

You know hodinkee has some serious web clout when they can sell out a GS special edition of a version of a watch that even many GS fans had barely given thought to.

If the blue pops anything like the Tag version photographed above I suspect you will have 500 very happy owners. 


•• sent by two turn tables and a microphone ••


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## TransporterG (Aug 21, 2020)

matthew P said:


> You know hodinkee has some serious web clout when they can sell out a GS special edition of a version of a watch that even many GS fans had barely given thought to.


Spot on, @matthew P Not quite underwhelmed, but not overly excited. I wonder why this version, and add an Iwate dial, which does look fine in blue no doubt? With so many outstanding hi-beat and SD GMT watches, perhaps it was the only reference the GS was willing to offer Hodinkee? Why the choice of bracelet? Maybe excess inventory in Japan?


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## NardinNut (Sep 22, 2008)

local_time said:


> sold out


It says "coming soon. Join the waitlist" which to me reads that they sold out of the first batch of 250 but the waitlist is for the February release of the remaining 250.

I did purchase one of the first 250 pieces. Email said it would ship in "4-12 business days". I'll post up here once I receive it


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## TransporterG (Aug 21, 2020)

Look forward to seeing this one.


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## Cowboy Bebop (Jan 9, 2011)

JJ312 said:


> I've seen this argument in other places now too that the bracelet is designed for the watch because it's been previously released and fair enough. But if it's not a design flaw then it's one of manufacturing, I mean c'mon look at this pic and tell me it's fine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi your photo didn't show could you repost I was interested in seeing it.

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## ShortOnTime (Dec 22, 2013)

I watched the Hodinkee video of this several days ago. That blue looked mesmerizing. The rest of the watch? Not so much, for me at least. Hard pass for me, not that it matters.


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## chillwill120 (Apr 18, 2014)

tacit said:


> You're correct and it's still available surprisingly enough, Just look at that dial 😲😲😲
> 
> View attachment 15520551


What is the ref # for this model?


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## tacit (Jan 21, 2020)

chillwill120 said:


> What is the ref # for this model?


SBGM241


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## JJ312 (Mar 9, 2019)

Cowboy Bebop said:


> Hi your photo didn't show could you repost I was interested in seeing it.


Hmm, not sure why but I took a screenshot of the Hodinkee "unboxing" video and you can find it here (around the 2:20 mark):


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## Cowboy Bebop (Jan 9, 2011)

JJ312 said:


> Hmm, not sure why but I took a screenshot of the Hodinkee "unboxing" video and you can find it here (around the 2:20 mark):


Omg I see what you meant this doesn't look uniformed....it looks like it could rattle a bit lol









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## Cowboy Bebop (Jan 9, 2011)

If anyone is interested uhmn... I hope it isn't one of you brothers and sisters of mine and forgive me if I offend you but there is already two scalpers on eBay selling this for more than the release price.

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## bigbombula (Sep 10, 2010)

I like the color combination overall but I still prefer the 221. The ivory dial with blued gmt hand on the 221 is something special. I believe this case shape would look much better with the beads of rice bracelet. I do agree that the lug figment looks off on this one.


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## Nokie (Jul 4, 2011)

Pretty nice. Not my favorite, but a great watch nonetheless.


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## roadcykler (Apr 6, 2011)

Cowboy Bebop said:


> If anyone is interested uhmn... I hope it isn't one of you brothers and sisters of mine and forgive me if I offend you but there is already two scalpers on eBay selling this for more than the release price.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


That's what people do with all kinds of limited release items and as long as there are people willing to pay, the sellers will keep doing it.


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## Karusel (Aug 10, 2020)

Well, it came out better than expected!


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## Lukebennett21 (Jan 21, 2020)

I may wear mine with the plastic still on to protect the high polish 😆


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## Karusel (Aug 10, 2020)

Lukebennett21 said:


> I may wear mine with the plastic still on to protect the high polish ?


It hasn't even been a day yet! Lol.

Goodbye plastic.


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## Lukebennett21 (Jan 21, 2020)

That blue is so beautiful


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## Karusel (Aug 10, 2020)

Lukebennett21 said:


> That blue is so beautiful


Agreed. It really came out better than expected since there was no way of seeing it personally... I think I lucked out on this one.


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## alan1219 (Oct 2, 2019)

Karusel said:


> It hasn't even been a day yet! Lol.
> 
> Goodbye plastic.
> View attachment 15530434


I'm definitely a fan, does the bracelet issue bother you?


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## Karusel (Aug 10, 2020)

alan1219 said:


> I'm definitely a fan, does the bracelet issue bother you?


No issue whatsoever. The PR photos probably used a prototype. Endlinks are tight and fit as they should.


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## matthew P (Aug 1, 2013)

this watch will look incredible on a nice vintage brown leather strap but it also looks great on the SS bracelet..... sure the BOR will look good - but kind of dressy, looks like a fantastic daily wearer on the NON pinstriped bracelet - congrats owners


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## Lukebennett21 (Jan 21, 2020)

Reminds me of a starry sky


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## wow445 (Feb 8, 2019)

Wow I dig that matte grey GMT hand.


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## wildenkidu (Sep 2, 2020)

Lukebennett21 said:


> Reminds me of a starry sky


That is a fantastic description. That blue dial is stunning and the muted/matte gray of the GMT hand/text really adds a feeling of depth - very different vibe than what the SBGM221/etc were going for.

It really does look fantastic - better than it did in the press shots. Congrats!


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## wow445 (Feb 8, 2019)

Anybody got these on leather straps yet?


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## NardinNut (Sep 22, 2008)

Just randomly received mine today. No email update or shipping notification from Hodinkee. FedEx didn't require signature. Walked outside and it was sitting on porch. 

Unfortunately I'll be letting it go immediately. While in the limbo of it shipping, and no response from Hodinkee on request to cancel order, I came across opportunity to buy a watch I love and that's a bit more of hit to bank acct, so letting this one, among couple others, go. Definitely a beautiful watch though.


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## bearbear (Jan 6, 2018)

Really like what the way they designed the GMT hand. Even though it's basically the same color as the other hands, it relies on different finishing to stand out


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## uncle6 (Sep 25, 2015)

tacit said:


> Quite possibly. I know that Hodinkee is simply trying to tick the trend boxes like you have mentioned here.
> 
> The Watches of Switzerland version kicks the s*** out of the Hodinkee version, if I'm being the most honest version of myself. Iwate dial, beautiful classically Grand Seiko color scheme (yellow is unique, but still feels naturally Grand Seiko) and at home on a dressier leather strap.
> 
> View attachment 15520491


Can't agree more! This is far more interesting than the Hodinkee version, gorgeous British racing green dial with Mt. Iwate dial texture. The pricing on the Hodinkee version is a little cocky IMO, just too plain to look at.


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## yokied (Jan 7, 2017)

Well these certainly are special. Congrats to the new owners of what is certainly going to be a rare collaboration: Grand Seiko x LVMH.


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## NardinNut (Sep 22, 2008)

Received an RMA from Hodinkee to return mine. Sending back Monday. If anyone wants it PM me before Monday


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## ParkinNJ (Apr 23, 2008)

The colorway on the dial came out better than expected (for me) shifting from a pastel in bright sunlight to dark navy blue indoors. Pleasantly surprised the bracelet to case fitment wasn't as bad as the media pictures or maybe my old eyes just can't see the difference. 😅


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## OCDwatchguy (Aug 28, 2020)

In stock at Hodinkee again, buy it at retail, don’t give in to the (very blatant) scalpers lol!


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## mgshoutman (Nov 13, 2020)

Very interesting watch with IMO a modern look. but I am not sure on the dial. It's just flat without any structure right ?


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## ParkinNJ (Apr 23, 2008)

@mgshoutman That's correct, the dial is untextured in what Hodinkee calls 'twilight blue'. "The dial that was partially inspired by the daily transition from day to night". Admittedly, that's a lot of marketing fluff and perhaps over-the-top, but I do enjoy the blue dial (transitioning from pastel to dark navy) and the gray 24 hour accents match nicely.


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## mgshoutman (Nov 13, 2020)

ParkinNJ said:


> @mgshoutman That's correct, the dial is untextured in what Hodinkee calls 'twilight blue'. "The dial that was partially inspired by the daily transition from day to night". Admittedly, that's a lot of marketing fluff and perhaps over-the-top, but I do enjoy the blue dial (transitioning from pastel to dark navy) and the gray 24 hour accents match nicely.


enjoy the watch 😊


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