# Cartier SANTOS two tone. 2 months on the wrist.



## 1Fabian (Dec 28, 2021)

Hey everyone, i’m new to this forum and i just wanted to share my experience with my beloved Cartier Santos two tone in medium.


My watch story.

On my 30th birthday I've decided it is the right time for my first (mechanical) watch. Funny enough, it took me a year to choose the right one. After starting to learn about horology, I wanted the watch would tick all the boxes: Historical significance, In house movement, 30-100m water proof rating, anti magnetic.

I was considering Blancpain fifty fathoms, Blancpain Aqua Lung Gold and Omega Seamaster (two tone), but after reading many positive things about the santos, and it's versatility, I've tried the stainless steel santos at the boutique in Paris. Roman numerals, the dial and the proportions of the medium size Santos reminded me of my fathers PP Calatrava and it's aesthetic simplicity which I adore, but feel i'm too "dressed down" for it 99% of the time 😂

I was originally planning to buy the stainless steel Santos from Cartier online shop, but after scrolling through various watch forums I accidentally found a perfect deal - a two month old two tone Santos medium 40% off the retail price in perfect condition. 


2 months on the wrist.
Believe me not - the accuracy is outstanding. It is - 1 second IN THE LAST 35 days! Why don’t Cartier gets the santos a chronometer certificate? They are also crazy not to mention anything about its magnetic resistance properties. Did you know It is more resistant than the Rolex Milgauss?

Another interesting fact. During some lighting conditions the gold looks like stainless steel. This might be due to a higher grade stainless steel used in TT which is slightly creamier than the regular steel santos. I’ve asked Cartier and they did confirm different stainless steel is used on TT’s. 

I love the quickswitch strap system, and I will be adding an aligator strap in the future.











Bezel and polishing.
I was told at Cartier the bezel is an extreme scratch magnet - due to meticulous polishing at the factory, micro scratches will appear even with contact with clothes. This was the main reason I was not afraid to buy the watch preowned - I would not be angry on myself by making first nicks during the first week 

By the way, some micro scrathes were visible on the ad, when buying the watch, but I was pleasantly surprised when I opened the box- those scratches were almost impossible to see by naked eye.


I’ve read many forums regarding polishing cloths and liquids like “Cape cod”, but I chose the “Connoisseur’s gold polishing” kit since it is more gentle to gold. In fact I was curious if those micro scratches could be buffed away by hand. About 50% of scratches got buffed away easily. However you have to be very gentle - abrasiveness of the the polishing clothes can be felt even when applying light pressure. I would not touch it with a cape cod by any means. 

The “honeymoon period” is getting over so I guess I won’t be caring much about the bezel in the future and I will get it professionally polished after 3-5 years along with the service.

By the way, did anyone already got their Santos polished? I’m curious of the result and the price. Is it in the hundreds or thousands?

I know it is difficult to find a decent polisher. I’ve read some stories about Audemars Piguet service centers ruining Royal Oaks by polishing too much surface and damaging the geometry and sharpness.



Looking forward to hearing other experiences with Cartier!
ps. english is not my native language so ignore my mistakes!


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## mediasapiens (Jul 18, 2019)

Good looking watch from iconic brand. Size is also quite good for your wrist (I guess you went with medium size?). As far as polishing I would recommend something British Museum uses on their precious metals. It is called Renaissance wax, leaves no swirls or marks of any kind on the surface and creates protective barrier. I use it on furniture, jewelry and even oil paintings.


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## Michael Maddan (Aug 17, 2010)

1Fabian said:


> Hey everyone, i’m new to this forum and i just wanted to share my experience with my beloved Cartier Santos two tone in medium.
> 
> 
> My watch story.
> ...


I second your notion @ the Cape Cod cloth: one of these might be OK to polish an old knife and fork set, or the emblem on a 1950's farm tractor, but I would never let one loose near ANY watch, let alone one like yours.

The "Renaissance" wax / polish is a really nice product to have around, and seems well-tolerated by many surfaces around the home. Another, fine, English-made item that deserves consideration is a "Selvyt" cloth: this is simply a very cleverly-woven piece of cotton, that is surprisingly capable of bringing a nice finish to many, different surfaces.

Michael.


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## chillwill120 (Apr 18, 2014)

Nice watch. I would be shocked if the stainless steel in the two tone Santos was different from the steel in the all stainless less version. If someone at the AD told you that, they have no idea what they’re talking about.


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## Stchambe (Jun 1, 2009)

chillwill120 said:


> Nice watch. I would be shocked if the stainless steel in the two tone Santos was different from the steel in the all stainless less version. If someone at the AD told you that, they have no idea what they’re talking about.


A while ago this same question came up and Cartier confirmed they use different steel for the all-stainless and the two-tone.


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## 1Fabian (Dec 28, 2021)

chillwill120 said:


> Nice watch. I would be shocked if the stainless steel in the two tone Santos was different from the steel in the all stainless less version. If someone at the AD told you that, they have no idea what they’re talking about.


Here is a quote from another member regarding this question:

“Turns out, their all-steel models use regular 316L (EN 1.4435), while the two-tone steel and gold versions use 316LVM (EN 1.4441 "implant grade" or "medical grade" stainless steel).”


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## usccopeland (Jan 20, 2021)

Hi Fabian, welcome to the forum! Congrats on choosing the Santos. I can't offer any feedback on polishing as I went with the ADLC version. I've had it well over a year and have enjoyed it. It's a really cool, understated, sporty watch. Hope you continue to enjoy it and your time here on WUS.


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## powerband (Oct 17, 2008)

Congrats on the watch—it’s beautiful and looks great on your wrist. 

As for scratches, I tend to adore them as they represent the life and time that the watch has lived. To me, getting rid of scratches on my watch is like eliminating the memory I’ve gathered.

Whichever perspectives we have on surface scratches, there’s no denying the Santos is immensely beautiful.

Congrats!


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## Pun (Sep 2, 2015)

Mine says hi, 2 years old...


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## chillwill120 (Apr 18, 2014)

1Fabian said:


> Here is a quote from another member regarding this question:
> 
> “Turns out, their all-steel models use regular 316L (EN 1.4435), while the two-tone steel and gold versions use 316LVM (EN 1.4441 "implant grade" or "medical grade" stainless steel).”


Well it seems I stand corrected. Very interesting. I am in the market for one of these, I will probably go with steel but the TT is tempting.


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## dantan (Dec 16, 2014)

Congratulations on your two tone Cartier Santos!

I have owned mine for over three years now (stainless steel version) and love it!

It is the Watch in my collection that I wear the most.

I hate scratches and my Santos showed really light scratches on the highly polished bezel within hours of my picking up my new Santos back in 2018, and I was so upset, because I had been so careful with it and had no idea how or where they came from! It is as if just the wind blowing caused them to appear. It upset me for a few weeks as my Santos kept picking up more and more scratches (I have Watches older than my Santos that have next to no scratches) but I have well and truly gotten over them, and I actually quite like them now, and would not want them removed until I get it Serviced in the next year or two.

Accuracy is indeed absolutely outstanding and amongst the most accurate of all of my mechanical Watches.

I absolutely love my Santos. Wear yours in good health!


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## powerband (Oct 17, 2008)

dantan said:


> I absolutely love my Santos.


+1


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## mjrchabot (Apr 5, 2011)

Congrats! The Santos truly is one of those watches that deserves to spike. In the same circles as the Reverso, Fifty Fathoms, Speedmaster, Navitimer, Datejust, etc. It truly is an icon in the watch universe.

I’ve had my steel Santos medium for about 6 months now and is also one of my favourites in my collection. Like dantan said above, you learn to see past the swirls on the bezel and just come to appreciate it as a form of “patina” on this beautiful watch. 

It took 14 years of collecting before giving Cartier a second look, but I’m glad I did. This one is a keeper no doubt.

As for Cartier using a different steel in the TT, does anyone know why they did this? What practical benefit does it give?



















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## Pun (Sep 2, 2015)

mjrchabot said:


> As for Cartier using a different steel in the TT, does anyone know why they did this? What practical benefit does it give?


They say it's imperative to use a different, higher property steel, on Two Tone watches due to 18c gold metal on case. Perhaps the normal steel doesn't fit well with gold...
Cartier use different steel with all their TT watch cases, as per their response.
BTW they don't advertise this fact and I'm sure that most of the Cartier aficionados don't know this.


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## powerband (Oct 17, 2008)

Pun said:


> BTW they don't advertise this fact and I'm sure that most of the Cartier aficionados don't know this.


I get the feeling that Cartier is all about the experience of the sum and not of the parts. Hair springs and metal composition, those are for Cartier to worry about and not for us to ponder, much like owners of Ferraris should never have to ponder what’s under the hood.


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## Trel (Nov 21, 2009)

dantan said:


> It upset me for a few weeks as my Santos kept picking up more and more scratches


The first few are upsetting, but after a while it picks up so many that it simply becomes like a uniform texture. 🤪 My wedding ring is the same way. There's not a single square millimeter that isn't marked up, so now it's sparkly rather than shiny.


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## ronrush (12 mo ago)

I have a Santos in steel medium too and it is very daily watch. love it absolutely. 

I also did wonder why Cartier doesn't provide more information for their "in-house movement" for its watches. There is some secrecy which I hypothesised for a two reasons:

1) Do not show your weaknesses but only your strengths. Cartier knows their in house movements will never be able to compare to the holy trinity, JLC, GP, GS etc, and by revealing the info, comparisons would be made and devalue their timepieces. Hence I think their focus would be just selling its rich history and impeccable designs and treat it like art. And so far, people are still mesmerised by the magic of Cartier and it works. 

2) Their in house movements could be shady due to cost cutting and these are cans of worms that they would not want to open. I don't really think this is so, but some time back I watched a youtube video where this guy inspected his Cartier movements and found plastic parts! GEEZUS! He didn't back up his claim with any photos, but he seemed pretty legit. Hence I wonder if any experts here have opened up Cartier movements and reviewed them?


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## Pun (Sep 2, 2015)

ronrush said:


> I have a Santos in steel medium too and it is very daily watch. love it absolutely.
> 
> I also did wonder why Cartier doesn't provide more information for their "in-house movement" for its watches. There is some secrecy which I hypothesised for a two reasons:
> 
> ...


I fear your both apprehension don't hold logic. Cartier movements are studied independently and are found to be at par with other top industrial finished movements. There was a plastic holder to hold the movement with the case in certain Tank models as it was more sturdy, now it's removed. 
Even Omega uses a plastic part in famous Speedmaster, known as Delrin break! And that's because it's sturdier than metal.
*All information gathered from internet.


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## powerband (Oct 17, 2008)

Polymers come in various density and qualities and they shouldn’t be assumed automatically as “cheap plastic.” Some can be more costly to manufacture than steel and for certain applications they can out-perform steel, such as anti-corrosion and shock absorbency. If a movement-holder ring is made with quality polymers and is fitted with exacting tolerance inside the case, then there’s nothing wrong with their specific application in watches costing $7K (it may even be argued to be preferred).

We tend to think that polymers are used in disposable garbage bags and generic containers, but we don’t consider that polymers are used in firearms, joint replacements, spacecrafts, satellites and space systems. These objects successfully perform in and tolerate extreme environments. 


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## paul-smith (Oct 12, 2021)

*powerband*

100% agree. Plastic does not equal cheap automatically.

150k RM that uses carbon fiber with plastic resin to hold it together as example!


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## montelatici (Apr 28, 2006)

chillwill120 said:


> Nice watch. I would be shocked if the stainless steel in the two tone Santos was different from the steel in the all stainless less version. If someone at the AD told you that, they have no idea what they’re talking about.


Actually it is true. The two tone models use a higher quality steel.

"*“In the majority of our watchmaking pieces we do use the standard 316L. For the gold & steel versions we use a more high end steel”* "









Let’s Get Technical: The Cartier Santos


Exploring technical nuances of the Cartier Santos, including anti-magnetism, winding mechanisms, supply chain ethics, and some surprises about steel




chronochatter.com


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## montelatici (Apr 28, 2006)

ronrush said:


> I have a Santos in steel medium too and it is very daily watch. love it absolutely.
> 
> I also did wonder why Cartier doesn't provide more information for their "in-house movement" for its watches. There is some secrecy which I hypothesised for a two reasons:
> 
> ...


The Cartier movements certainly compare to the movements of the holy trinity and JLC or GS. The Cartier Flying Tourbillon and the ID series are second to none in high horology terms. You might find this interesting.









Sunday Read: Shut Up & Read The Truth About Cartier Watches


Cartier watches expert George Cramer explains it once more: the truth about Cartier watches.




www.fratellowatches.com


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## ronrush (12 mo ago)

thanks for educating me on the use of polymers! now i am more reassured


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## powerband (Oct 17, 2008)

ronrush said:


> thanks for educating me on the use of polymers! now i am more reassured


Absolutely no concerns with polymers used for a movement holder ring—Cartier watchmakers precisely regulate their calibres to run with a narrow spec; so, they would never knowingly compromise the function of their timepieces if they believed that polymers are pragmatically inferior. Also, don’t forget how many top and luxury brands use _silicon springs_ (considered superior) inside their movements. Silicon is essentially a combination of rubber and polymers. 


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## johpe (Jun 22, 2021)

chillwill120 said:


> Nice watch. I would be shocked if the stainless steel in the two tone Santos was different from the steel in the all stainless less version. If someone at the AD told you that, they have no idea what they’re talking about.


I know you've already gotten the info about this being true, but here are the threads where this was discussed (just for reference):









Let's Get Technical: The Cartier Santos


G'day watch fam, I've consolidated all the technical tidbits of information I've been uncovering about the Santos over the past few years from this thread into a new article on my blog, for ease of reference and with some more comprehensive discussion...




www.watchuseek.com













Cartier Santos 2018: Some insider info


Hey all, Just thought you'd all be interested in some tidbits I've managed to wrangle from Cartier recently regarding the Santos 2018. Disappointed with the lack of technical info on their website, I've been harassing their sales staff for a few months now to get more details. In particular, I...




www.watchuseek.com





They also contain other interesting parts about the Santos de Cartier.


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## Trotsky (Jun 23, 2013)

Thats a grail watch for me. Great choice!


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## arolex (Feb 12, 2017)

1Fabian said:


> Hey everyone, i’m new to this forum and i just wanted to share my experience with my beloved Cartier Santos two tone in medium.
> 
> 
> My watch story.
> ...


Looks great. Congrats.


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