# cementing crystal to bezel?



## fluppyboy (May 24, 2009)

Hi everyone,

I popped the bezel off my pocket watch to use the blower to blow some dust off the dial. This worked great, but while cleaning the crystal, it came apart from the bezel itself. It seems that it was just cemented to the bezel (not the original crystal, obviously). I don't mind cementing it back to the bezel for the time being, but wanted to know if there was a particular type of glue that was recommended. I know that a few tiny micro-drops of superglue will do the job, but don't want to use it until I've asked... just in case. 

Suggestions?


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## Somewhere else (Feb 17, 2006)

fluppyboy said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I popped the bezel off my pocket watch to use the blower to blow some dust off the dial. This worked great, but while cleaning the crystal, it came apart from the bezel itself. It seems that it was just cemented to the bezel (not the original crystal, obviously). I don't mind cementing it back to the bezel for the time being, but wanted to know if there was a particular type of glue that was recommended. I know that a few tiny micro-drops of superglue will do the job, but don't want to use it until I've asked... just in case.
> 
> Suggestions?


Chances are excellent that the original crystal was cemented in. That's how glass crystals were put into bezels. Any watch supply house has crystal cement, but model airplane glue works just as well.


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## fluppyboy (May 24, 2009)

Somewhere else said:


> Chances are excellent that the original crystal was cemented in. That's how glass crystals were put into bezels. Any watch supply house has crystal cement, but model airplane glue works just as well.


The sterling silver case is from 1900-1901. The actual watch movement is a little older. So it's possible that it was glued in the first place. I have a hobby shop two blocks away from here. Here I come!


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## lysanderxiii (Oct 4, 2006)

Crystal Cement:


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## fluppyboy (May 24, 2009)

Went to the hobby shop today, and the guy behind the counter mentioned that model glue will make the parts of the crystal that it contacts "milky" (white). So I walked out of the shop without it, might have to get my hands on the proper stuff. Model glue is cheap, but I'm not sure I want to take the chance. Also, after having a closer look at the crystal and the bezel, I reckon the crystal would fit inside the bezel, if only I had the right tool. I wonder how many watchmakers would actually know what I'm talking about, if I asked for help (the shopping centre kiosk types, that is)...


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## skoochy (Jan 6, 2009)

fluppyboy said:


> Went to the hobby shop today, and the guy behind the counter mentioned that model glue will make the parts of the crystal that it contacts "milky" (white). So I walked out of the shop without it, might have to get my hands on the proper stuff. Model glue is cheap, but I'm not sure I want to take the chance. Also, after having a closer look at the crystal and the bezel, I reckon the crystal would fit inside the bezel, if only I had the right tool. I wonder how many watchmakers would actually know what I'm talking about, if I asked for help (the shopping centre kiosk types, that is)...


The model glue will make a plastic crystal craze (meaning turn white due to the surface becoming distorted). Then again, using crystal glue will do the same thing if you follow the instructions (pre-clean or clean the excess up with acetone)... it works well on mineral and sapphire crystals.

So I presume you are talking about a plastic crystal... which just MIGHT fit inside the bezel with the proper tool. The proper tool is a crystal lift. You'd probably have to go to a real watchmaker to find one that has one, most mall-types only have tools to change batteries on watches where the back comes off. Your alternative is to buy the crystal lift or find a real watchmaker. Surprisingly, my local RiteAid has a real watchmaker renting space inside. I wouldn't ask him to clean a Patek, but he certainly knows more than his drugstore location implies.

If you're actually talking about a glass crystal, then you can't use a crystal lift, and model glue probably won't hold the crystal, and crystal glue can be used and cleaned without hurting the crystal.

-s-


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## DoctorC (Jan 28, 2009)

When I was working on my JLC memovox (Don't you just hate name droppers?) I was looking for some crystal cement because the crystal was loose enough to spin in the bezel and rattled slightly when tapped. Doing some google searches for "watch crystal cement" came up with the suggestion for GS Hypo cement. I didn't want superglue, too big a chance to screw up and drip on the acrylic crystal leaving a permanent goop and I was afraid if the crystal did not seat properly or if I needed to remove it again the crystal might crack before the glue. Plus I always glue my fingers together with the stuff. The Hypo cement worked really well. It was pretty easy to work with, the hypodermic applicator was pretty easy to use. I still glooped a little on the crystal and bezel but it cleaned up easily.








From the Amazon description "G-S Hypo Cement was invented in the 1930's for use in the watchmaking and jewelry repair industries. It is a combination of a fine precision tool and a clear drying, medium-strength cement that will not damage surfaces. The cement is ideal for jewelry, beads, plastic, glass, metal, ceramics, painted or sealed woods and other non-porous surfaces. This is a no-waste product that is ideal for many applications. Full use of the precision applicator tip is maintained by inserting the cap wire into the tube when not in use, and by cleaning excess drops from the outside of the applicator with rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover. This is not an "instant glue." It becomes tacky in 10 - 15 seconds, allows parts to be adjusted, and dries in 10 to 15 minutes. The cement will not bond fingers, and has a slight odor that dissipates quickly. Great for model making, miniatures, fine screw locking, sealing knots, precision waterproof sealing, precision repairs, optical and technical applications, crafts and hobbies."

I picked it up at my local "Hobby Lobby" for about $6 but can be found cheaper on amazon







http://www.amazon.com/G-S-Hypo-Cement-X001/dp/B000YQDX86


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## Somewhere else (Feb 17, 2006)

GS Hypo is the crystal cement I had in mind. Crystal cement (for plastic crystals) neither causes crazing nor whiteness. Crazing can not be cause by cement. It is only caused by again, or much more commonly by forcing the crystal into the bezel. While I prefer crystal cement, if model airplane cement is applied properly it does not cause whiting. If you read the ingredients on both packages, they're the same thing.

There are different types of glues made for mineral glass and sapphire. This isn't under discussion here (I think). Glass and plastic are both glued in with a cement like GS Hypo, which, by the way, is sold by a company which manufactures plastic crystal.

Glass crystals are still used (when they can be found or bought) on pocket watches and also wrist watches that originally used them, such as watches of the 1950s with double cut and triple cut crystals.


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## skoochy (Jan 6, 2009)

Somewhere else said:


> GS Hypo is the crystal cement I had in mind. Crystal cement (for plastic crystals) neither causes crazing nor whiteness. Crazing can not be cause by cement. It is only caused by again, or much more commonly by forcing the crystal into the bezel. While I prefer crystal cement, if model airplane cement is applied properly it does not cause whiting. If you read the ingredients on both packages, they're the same thing.


You need to consider your audience when posting, and possibly clarify your location when making suggestions with terms that may have more than one meaning.

"Model airplane cement" as you refer to is probably a cellulose-based cement; the term for this has fallen into disuse in the US for some time now. Now more often it refers to "plastic cement" as wooden models are not very common. That glue, which contains a plastic solvent, will cause crazing or whitening of plastic or acrylic.

"Crazing" as you refer to is the main definition of "micro cracking" in plastics or other crystalline solids. In your location, maybe this is the only acceptable definition. In the US scale modeling world (since you brought up model airplane glue), crazing refers to the uneven surface formed by the plastic being attacked by solvents, either in glue or paint. It is an appropriate usage here when glue affects the appearance of plastic. It is also supported by most American dictionaries.

Thank you both for the clarification of your original statement and for more revelations that help us understand why the miscommunication occurs. Your original suggestion of GS cement is obviously sound; it was the suggestion of an alternative which was not appropriate for the OP (as demonstrated by his experience at the store).

-s-


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## Genway (Feb 12, 2009)

Your crystal was hold by friction, for instance, if the openning is 38.0 mm, the crystal to fit in will be 38.3 to 38.5, use crystal press to insert the crystal, that is standard method for all G-S PK crystal, never use glue.
If your crystal is not the "modern" type, but original glass (very few still use it), you will need Epoxy to cement it, but in many case I did friction fit glass crystal to bezel, only can use 0.1 mm largwer for the openning.
Once the bezel set back to front case, this glass will be more secured in place, due to the expansion of the bezel from the base, the groove will squeeze a little, and tighten the glass more firm.


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## JimH (Jan 15, 2007)

skoochy said:


> "Crazing" as you refer to is the main definition of "micro cracking" in plastics or other crystalline solids. In your location, maybe this is the only acceptable definition. In the US scale modeling world (since you brought up model airplane glue), crazing refers to the uneven surface formed by the plastic being attacked by solvents, either in glue or paint. It is an appropriate usage here when glue affects the appearance of plastic. It is also supported by most American dictionaries.


"Crazing" as applied to plastic watch crystals refers to stress fractures in the plastic. It does not refer to surface "crazing" caused by solvents.

I do not believe that *Somewhere else* is referring to a cellulose glue when he says "model airplane glue". Wooden airplane models pretty much disappeared back in the late 50s. There are all sorts of glues but one should not choose a glue that dissolves plastic when working with crystals (some old plastic model airplane glues would do this but these are mostly banned now because of glue-sniffing kids). The GS product or perhaps a clear epoxy like Epoxy 330 could be used with this crystal.


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## skoochy (Jan 6, 2009)

JimH said:


> "Crazing" as applied to plastic watch crystals refers to stress fractures in the plastic. It does not refer to surface "crazing" caused by solvents.


But I am the one who originally brought up crazing, and included that I meant the definition of surface deformation due to solvents. It is an appropriate usage for plastics, and by explaining that I was using it that way, I don't think it could be any clearer.

For instance, if I say:

_You can't do it that way (not meaning YOU personally, but in the generic sense)._

It is pretty clear that I don't mean "you personally" because I've defined it right after the usage. A response of "But I HAVE done it that way" would seem rather superfluous and silly.

Those glues are not banned in most areas, but may be age-restricted. As a matter of fact, since G-S Hypo contains xylene, it's just as much a candidate for inhalation. So use it in a well ventilated area! (Xylene is also widely used in cellulose based products.)

-s-


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