# Hands-on with the new 39.5mm Oris Aquis Date



## robattopper

The Oris Aquis has had an exciting road, as the independent Swiss brand's flagship dive watch, since its inception in 2011 as the modest TT1 Diver. Since then, we've seen two generational revisions, a slew of colorful offerings, and an increasingly interesting range of complications and philanthropic special editions.









_The 2018 39.5mm Oris Aquis Date (right) next to its 43.5mm brother in sunburst green, also for 2018_

Now, even since 2011, the Aquis (and by extension, its predecessors) has primarily been available in a single case size: 43.5mm - until this year. The new 39.5mm Aquis Date follows all the same design cues from the recent 2017 collection refresh (here's a detailed overview of those updates), which include a new case profile, a new dial and handset, and a new bracelet. All of these changes dialed back the chunky design language of the outgoing variant, and yielded a sporty, but much more svelte dive watch that's already been a hit around Topper. These welcome changes are amplified even further with a smaller case, which should please many fans who loved the Aquis aesthetic, but found the 43.5mm standard case too modern for their tastes.









_The new 39.5mm Aquis on a 6.5" wrist_

It's not uncommon for savvy Swiss brands to offer more than a single size of one of their iconic designs, enabling them to be worn by either a wider range of wrists, or for those whose tastes tend to lean towards a very specific size. Omega has been doing this with all of their Seamasters for a number of years with 'mid,' standard, and 'XL' options. They've continued this trend most recently, by introducing a 39.5mm Planet Ocean (which we compared right here) to the Seamaster range.









_The standard 43.5mm Oris Aquis Date on a 6.5" wrist, for comparison's sake_

Now, it bears repeating that the 43.5mm Aquis was never a 'big' watch, by any stretch of the imagination. Its downward-curved integrated lugs and modest 50.5mm lug-to-lug measurement ensured the watch wore comfortably on a wide variety of wrists. For the new 39.5mm Aquis, collectors are simply presented with an excellent option that more efficiently bridges the gap between the standard 43.5mm case, and the 36.5mm women's-specific 'Diamonds' variants, for those looking for more traditional proportions, while still maintaining the handsome, and now-classic Aquis aesthetic.


















_The 39.5mm Aquis retains the chunky crown guards but overall smooth lines of its bigger 43.5mm brother_

The new 39.5mm Aquis maintains the 14mm thickness of its 43.5mm brother, while reducing two other key measurements: the dial diameter which goes from 34.5mm to 31mm, and the lug-to-lug length, which is now a very restrained 47mm. The bracelet still maintains the graceful taper and surprising thinness throughout, thanks to the general Aquis revisions of 2017.









_The 39.5mm Oris Aquis worn on a 5.75" wrist_

But what do all those numbers mean outside a direct comparison with the larger Aquis? Well, Rolex isn't a brand Topper carries, but since the Submariner No Date ref. 114060 is something of a universally known, comparative entity, it measures 40mm by 12mm thick, and has a 48mm lug-to-lug measurement, making the new 39.5mm Aquis a very classically-proportioned dive watch indeed. A comparison that might be a little more known to longtime Topper clients, would be the classic 42mm Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, which has a slightly wider cushion-esque case, but a similar thickness, lug-to-lug, and near-identical dial aperture to the 39.5mm Aquis.










Inside the smaller Aquis Date, beats the Oris 733 automatic caliber - a Sellita SW 200-1 clone, and the same movement used in its larger 43.5mm brother. Noting the signature red rotor, the view through the exhibition caseback is otherwise identical, save for the slightly narrower, threaded stainless steel ring whereupon the watch information is engraved, which encircling the crystal aperture. With a date window at 6:00, this 28-jewel movement carries familiar chronometric performance - 38 hours of power reserve, and an oscillation rate of 28'800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz.










Thanks to its good looks and classically reserved proportions, the new 39.5mm Aquis is sure to be a new fan-favorite - particularly amongst the conversation around dive watch icons. This growing Oris Aquis collection is one of our favorite topics of conversation at Topper, so if you have any questions about the new sizes or one of the limited edition pieces, or you're simply ready to order your own, get started by browsing our offerings here, or inquire by emailing [email protected]. We'd be happy to hear from you directly as well - feel free to call us at 888-730-2221.


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## 4hour

Looks good! But a bit thick(?)
And i see the top of the lugs and the bracelet is now matte/brushed steel. Is there still any polished parts on this one?


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## ctsean

4hour said:


> Looks good! But a bit thick(?)
> And i see the top of the lugs and the bracelet is now matte/brushed steel. Is there still any polished parts on this one?


The Oris site suggests there is this "full brushed" one with a flat black face and another 39.5 with what looks like a black burst face, polished black bezel and partial case/bracelet polishing (like the 43.5 version)


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## sticky

Great read Rob. Thanks for posting.


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## 4hour

ctsean said:


> there is this "full brushed" one
> ]


That is good news! Omega is going full bling with the current Planet Ocean and the to be released new SmpC diver. 
So this Oris will be the hardcore looking toolwatch diver


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## dinexus

Loving the all-brushed look of this.


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## Aquapro

I was all set to buy this piece, until I read that it maintained the 14mm thickness. I read 12mm in another site. A bit of a let-down considering it was supposed to be something more capable of dressing up.


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## mplsabdullah

Aquapro said:


> I was all set to buy this piece, until I read that it maintained the 14mm thickness. I read 12mm in another site. A bit of a let-down considering it was supposed to be something more capable of dressing up.


I was about to buy one as well and I'm glad I was able to check one out in person before I did. The proportions are all off imo.


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## Steppy

Its not 14mm high at all, its 12.5mm


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## SunsetSheen

Does anyone know what the bracelet tapers down at the clasp? I can't find this info anywhere online.


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## mi6_

I think it’s 16mm but I’m admittedly not 100% certain.


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## mi6_

I just picked up my brand new 39.5mm Oris Aquis Date today which has been a grail piece for me. Special ordered it a few weeks back, and the dealer called this morning to let me know it had come in. I was second guessing myself for not getting the black bezel, dark blue dial in the 41.5mm size, but I really wanted the brushed matte black ceramic insert and black matte dial which was only available in the 43.5mm and 39.5mm sizes (these variants have been discontinued for 2022). 

Anyhow I absolutely love this piece. I prefer more toolish divers, and the entirely brushed case and bracelet combined with the matte insert and dial look just amazing. The legibility of the matte brushed bezel insert is great as well as are the polished indices and hands against the contrasting matte black dial. I think the size for my 6.5” wrist is perfect too. I probably could have worn the 41.5mm if I wanted, but I think the 39.5mm is a more classy and elegant size for my dainty wrist. Got a bunch of Oris swag as well!





































I‘ll post some size comparisons for anyone wondering about the size of the 39.5mm Oris Aquis Date.


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## mi6_

Most people say the 39.5mm Oris Aquis wears smaller than you’d think; more like a 38mm watch. While I can see why people say this (it does subjectively feel small and light), I think watch size preferences are so subjective and individually biased that it’s difficult to judge a size based off other’s opinion and experiences.

If you’re used to wearing large watches in the 43-45mm range, a 39.5mm Oris Aquis would feel like a ladies watch. But if you normally wear 36-38mm watches you might think the 39.5mm Oris Aquis wears much like a 40mm watch. There’s also way more to how a watch wears than just it’s diameter. A larger watch, such as a 43mm Seiko SKX007 will still wear great thanks to its short 46mm lug to lug length. To me this 39.5mm Oris Aquis feels and wears just like I’d expect a ~40mm diver with a 46mm lug to lug length to wear like.

Enough of me rambling on; here’s some comparison shots for your enjoyment. Looking at these convinced me I made the correct choice getting the 39.5mm Oris Aquis versus the slightly larger 41.5mm version.


Seiko SKX009 (42.5mm) and Seiko Monster SZSC003 (42.3mm)









Mido Ocean Star Tribute (40.5mm) and Seiko SPB143 (40.5mm)









Citizen NY0108-82X (42mm) and Seiko mini-turtle SRPC39K1 (42.3mm, 39mm bezel diameter)









Modded Orient Mako USA II (41.5mm) and Seiko SPB243 (38mm)









Seiko SSC813 (39mm) and Seiko SNE585 (38.5mm)









The last photo for me is telling. The 39.5mm Oris Aquis looks easily 1mm larger than the new 38.5mm Seiko Solar diver. A year ago I never would have spent the money on the Oris Aquis. But I’m sure glad I did as it was worth waiting for it to join my humble collection. Next up is hopefully the Sinn 556A in 2023.… I hope you enjoyed my impromptu photo size comparison. Cheers everyone!


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## mi6_

Lume is great! Love BGW9.


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## alec_kojro

Dan Henry also recently released a watch that fits the criteria too good:

1975

39mm 42mm lug to lug, yes 42mm....


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## BoxxMann1

robattopper said:


> The Oris Aquis has had an exciting road, as the independent Swiss brand's flagship dive watch, since its inception in 2011 as the modest TT1 Diver. Since then, we've seen two generational revisions, a slew of colorful offerings, and an increasingly interesting range of complications and philanthropic special editions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _The 2018 39.5mm Oris Aquis Date (right) next to its 43.5mm brother in sunburst green, also for 2018_
> 
> Now, even since 2011, the Aquis (and by extension, its predecessors) has primarily been available in a single case size: 43.5mm - until this year. The new 39.5mm Aquis Date follows all the same design cues from the recent 2017 collection refresh (here's a detailed overview of those updates), which include a new case profile, a new dial and handset, and a new bracelet. All of these changes dialed back the chunky design language of the outgoing variant, and yielded a sporty, but much more svelte dive watch that's already been a hit around Topper. These welcome changes are amplified even further with a smaller case, which should please many fans who loved the Aquis aesthetic, but found the 43.5mm standard case too modern for their tastes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _The new 39.5mm Aquis on a 6.5" wrist_
> 
> It's not uncommon for savvy Swiss brands to offer more than a single size of one of their iconic designs, enabling them to be worn by either a wider range of wrists, or for those whose tastes tend to lean towards a very specific size. Omega has been doing this with all of their Seamasters for a number of years with 'mid,' standard, and 'XL' options. They've continued this trend most recently, by introducing a 39.5mm Planet Ocean (which we compared right here) to the Seamaster range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _The standard 43.5mm Oris Aquis Date on a 6.5" wrist, for comparison's sake_
> 
> Now, it bears repeating that the 43.5mm Aquis was never a 'big' watch, by any stretch of the imagination. Its downward-curved integrated lugs and modest 50.5mm lug-to-lug measurement ensured the watch wore comfortably on a wide variety of wrists. For the new 39.5mm Aquis, collectors are simply presented with an excellent option that more efficiently bridges the gap between the standard 43.5mm case, and the 36.5mm women's-specific 'Diamonds' variants, for those looking for more traditional proportions, while still maintaining the handsome, and now-classic Aquis aesthetic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _The 39.5mm Aquis retains the chunky crown guards but overall smooth lines of its bigger 43.5mm brother_
> 
> The new 39.5mm Aquis maintains the 14mm thickness of its 43.5mm brother, while reducing two other key measurements: the dial diameter which goes from 34.5mm to 31mm, and the lug-to-lug length, which is now a very restrained 47mm. The bracelet still maintains the graceful taper and surprising thinness throughout, thanks to the general Aquis revisions of 2017.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _The 39.5mm Oris Aquis worn on a 5.75" wrist_
> 
> But what do all those numbers mean outside a direct comparison with the larger Aquis? Well, Rolex isn't a brand Topper carries, but since the Submariner No Date ref. 114060 is something of a universally known, comparative entity, it measures 40mm by 12mm thick, and has a 48mm lug-to-lug measurement, making the new 39.5mm Aquis a very classically-proportioned dive watch indeed. A comparison that might be a little more known to longtime Topper clients, would be the classic 42mm Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, which has a slightly wider cushion-esque case, but a similar thickness, lug-to-lug, and near-identical dial aperture to the 39.5mm Aquis.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside the smaller Aquis Date, beats the Oris 733 automatic caliber - a Sellita SW 200-1 clone, and the same movement used in its larger 43.5mm brother. Noting the signature red rotor, the view through the exhibition caseback is otherwise identical, save for the slightly narrower, threaded stainless steel ring whereupon the watch information is engraved, which encircling the crystal aperture. With a date window at 6:00, this 28-jewel movement carries familiar chronometric performance - 38 hours of power reserve, and an oscillation rate of 28'800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to its good looks and classically reserved proportions, the new 39.5mm Aquis is sure to be a new fan-favorite - particularly amongst the conversation around dive watch icons. This growing Oris Aquis collection is one of our favorite topics of conversation at Topper, so if you have any questions about the new sizes or one of the limited edition pieces, or you're simply ready to order your own, get started by browsing our offerings here, or inquire by emailing [email protected]. We'd be happy to hear from you directly as well - feel free to call us at 888-730-2221.


RT, I know this thread has some dust on it but I do have a question. My sunburst green 39.5 may be my favorite in my collection . I seem to always gravitate towards it no matter the day or function I am involved with. Mine is on a brown leather strap and I really want to get it on a bracelet . My only concern is the taper . I find the taper from 20 to 16 near the buckle to be almost a too small dimension. My question is , assuming the lug spacing hasn’t changed, does the older style bracelet maintain the 20 mm all the way around the wrist or perhaps have a smaller and less gradual taper ?


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## BoxxMann1

mi6_ said:


> Most people say the 39.5mm Oris Aquis wears smaller than you’d think; more like a 38mm watch. While I can see why people say this (it does subjectively feel small and light), I think watch size preferences are so subjective and individually biased that it’s difficult to judge a size based off other’s opinion and experiences.
> 
> If you’re used to wearing large watches in the 43-45mm range, a 39.5mm Oris Aquis would feel like a ladies watch. But if you normally wear 36-38mm watches you might think the 39.5mm Oris Aquis wears much like a 40mm watch. There’s also way more to how a watch wears than just it’s diameter. A larger watch, such as a 43mm Seiko SKX007 will still wear great thanks to its short 46mm lug to lug length. To me this 39.5mm Oris Aquis feels and wears just like I’d expect a ~40mm diver with a 46mm lug to lug length to wear like.
> 
> Enough of me rambling on; here’s some comparison shots for your enjoyment. Looking at these convinced me I made the correct choice getting the 39.5mm Oris Aquis versus the slightly larger 41.5mm version.
> 
> 
> Seiko SKX009 (42.5mm) and Seiko Monster SZSC003 (42.3mm)
> View attachment 16656711
> 
> 
> Mido Ocean Star Tribute (40.5mm) and Seiko SPB143 (40.5mm)
> View attachment 16656720
> 
> 
> Citizen NY0108-82X (42mm) and Seiko mini-turtle SRPC39K1 (42.3mm, 39mm bezel diameter)
> View attachment 16656752
> 
> 
> Modded Orient Mako USA II (41.5mm) and Seiko SPB243 (38mm)
> View attachment 16656755
> 
> 
> Seiko SSC813 (39mm) and Seiko SNE585 (38.5mm)
> View attachment 16656757
> 
> 
> The last photo for me is telling. The 39.5mm Oris Aquis looks easily 1mm larger than the new 38.5mm Seiko Solar diver. A year ago I never would have spent the money on the Oris Aquis. But I’m sure glad I did as it was worth waiting for it to join my humble collection. Next up is hopefully the Sinn 556A in 2023.… I hope you enjoyed my impromptu photo size comparison. Cheers everyone!


I love the bezel on the SZSC003 !!


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## mak52580

Very nice piece. I didn't think I needed another diver, but this has me re-thinking.


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