# Does Anyone have a Good Bulova A-15 Review?



## Relojes

Been looking at the re-issued A-15 which seems to be very popular in the forums in both Limited Edition (orange/yellow numerals) and regular re-issue (red/white numerals) but can't find a *detailed *review anywhere.

Anyone care to post a pictorial or video review?



awrose said:


>


Pictures from awrose from this https://www.watchuseek.com/f705/lets-see-your-latest-bulova-2650737-18.html thread.


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## Wolfsatz

Relojes said:


> Been looking at the re-issued A-15 which seems to be very popular in the forums in both Limited Edition (orange/yellow numerals) and regular re-issue (red/white numerals) but can't find a *detailed *review anywhere.
> 
> Anyone care to post a pictorial or video review?
> 
> Pictures from awrose from this https://www.watchuseek.com/f705/lets-see-your-latest-bulova-2650737-18.html thread.


I saw someone posted a mino review in the I saw a Deal thread. It was about 2 to 3 weeks ago, you can find it with a good search.

Did you look at the review section?

WIS Interwebs Communicator Tool


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## Relojes

Wolfsatz said:


> I saw someone posted a mino review in the I saw a Deal thread. It was about 2 to 3 weeks ago, you can find it with a good search.
> 
> Did you look at the review section?
> 
> WIS Interwebs Communicator Tool


I believe I did see the mini review, watch has case back off so reviewer identifies the movement. No in depth review, no videos at all.

There is a lot more info on the original than on this reissue.


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## JP71624

If I have time I'd like to do a review on mine, but feel free to contact me if interested. Also, if you're looking for one,l of the limited edition models, let me know!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk


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## yankeexpress

Bulova AccuSwiss Type A-15 Automatic | World Watch Review


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## Relojes

yankeexpress said:


> Bulova AccuSwiss Type A-15 Automatic | World Watch Review


I appreciate the link, but do note that that is more of a retelling of the marketing materials. As a reader I didn't feel I got anything "from the wrist".

BTW, a post in the Heads Up affordable thread just confirmed (with pics) that the regular production version 65A106 uses a Sellita SW200, not the ETA from the Limited Edition version.

Looks like a plain, un-decorated version.



jisham said:


> SW200-1
> 
> View attachment 9627682
> View attachment 9627690


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## COYI

Is the regular version only available with a black pvd case? 
I thought the Selita SW200 was equivalent to an ETA 2824-2, similar spec and performance.


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## JP71624

COYI said:


> Is the regular version only available with a black pvd case?
> I thought the Selita SW200 was equivalent to an ETA 2824-2, similar spec and performance.


Yes, I believe that's all you're going to find for the regular version.
The Selitta is the same as the ETA, for all intents and purposes; the quality is really nice. The ETA is just slightly more expensive, but that doesn't mean too much.


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## jisham

I don't really have a formal review ready to go, but I can share some experiences, and pictures, as an owner.

I believe the limited editions are all gone now, but who knows, you might get lucky and fine one still.

The standard editions are the 65A106 with a brown leather band, and the 65A107 with a black leather band. Both are black IP (not sure the difference from PVD, maybe just name branding?). As far as I know, there are no non-IP/stainless models.

I have large wrists (7.7") and the stock strap was a little tight on the last hole, but might have stretched to fit. I've since replaced it with a XL Jack foster and a bader deplyant, fits my wrists just fine. The lugs are cross drilled which makes strap changes easy. The spring bars are black/IP to match.

There are a bunch on eBay currently. Last I checked, the brown leather was available at $250 USD, and the black leather at $300 USD. They claim to be New and authorized dealers. I'm beginning to have suspicions that they might actually be factory refurbs or store displays. Mine came without plastic tags, and someone on another thread recently received one with badly misaligned hands.

Nice high-dome (double dome?) sapphire crystal. The edges are curved, the outside face is flat. I am unsure if it is AR or not.








caseback is held on with 4 flathead IP coated screws. 








Caseback has some nice decoration, I think that's called perlage?









Movement, at least on my 65A106 is a SW200-1. Anther user has reported that the LE has an ETA 2824 (-2?).








movement, with rotor removed







dial is nice. The red 24h markers really disappear in normal light, and the stealth black logo is nearly invisible. Not date, but the movement does hack in the setting position. I find the hands a little difficult to find - the white lume tips blend into the hour ring and can be hard to locate with a quick glance. I'm attempting to remove the hands and fully lume them to make them easier to visually scan, and apparently this is also more historically accurate, too! [nice write-up on the historical version here: Bulova Type A-15 Elapsed Time Watch ]. The seconds hand is almost invisible, and the lume pip is on the counterweight, which usually tricks my eye to look for the hand 30 seconds away from where it is.








Lume is not too bad, only a little less than a Seiko SXK007/009







and the obligatory wrist shot:








I love the dual internal rotating bezels, that's what I bought the watch for. Historically there were a 12 H elapsed time counter, but I think they also have utility as a 12H chronograph (same thing really), possible a timezome/24H indication, and could even be used as a seconds hack [I think the Lindbergh watch was the first to use this idea for air navigation].

Mine is currently apart, in an attempt to remove and fully lume the hands. For anyone interested in working on these, I think the easiest way to the dial/hands is from the front/crystal side. I haven't had any luck removing the movement/dial/hands intact from the back/caseback side yet, but the struggle still goes on. I can update on my success/failures/discoveries if there is interest.

Feel free to ask questions or for more/better pics. I will do the best I can with my limited knowledge and a half dis-assembled watch!


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## Relojes

jisham, great review, probably the best write up on the Bulova A-15 on the net.

1. I'm surprised to see they put a very basic grade (at least from looks) Sellita in comparison to the amount of finish on the outside.

2. Not sure about your comment "haven't had any luck removing the movement/dial/hands intact". Did you release the stem and remove the movement holders? Is there something unusual about the movement removal on this particular A-15 case?


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## jisham

Relojes said:


> jisham, great review, probably the best write up on the Bulova A-15 on the net.
> 
> 1. I'm surprised to see they put a very basic grade (at least from looks) Sellita in comparison to the amount of finish on the outside.
> 
> 2. Not sure about your comment "haven't had any luck removing the movement/dial/hands intact". Did you release the stem and remove the movement holders? Is there something unusual about the movement removal on this particular A-15 case?


1) Solid caseback. I guess they figure if it's not visible, it doesn't need to be decorated

2) Mostly an issue of time, and being careful on the most expensive watch I've cracked open so far. I've made some recent progress

I did get the stem out and remove the movement holders, but that was before JakeJD helped me realize it's a two part case. You don't need to release the movement holders, or the stem, to get at the hands. In fact, I don't think the movement with dial attached will fit through the rotating bezels to exit out the back. It is easier to remove it from the front/crystal side.

I'm new to this, but as I am learning, the 2824, and perhaps to a lesser extent the SW200, are a little finicky about stem removal, and possibly dislodging one of the intermediate gears in the keyless works. Getting access to the intermediate wheel can be tricky, possibly involving removing the dial or with winding bridge. I'm still still a newbie at this, so do your research first and be aware/careful of it.

If you open the back, and remove the four stainless screws, the crystal and bezel come off as a single piece, and you're left with the dial and internal rotating bezels as a flush piece, ready to work on the hands.

Here's one of four case screws highlighted in yellow









crystal and bezel come off as a single piece, no need to remove the movement (even though I did before I learned this)









dial ready for work on hands, hard to see at this angle, but this is flat and you could place a dial protector on there and safely work on hands









and a tease of some photo-gimp-ed mockups and work-in-progress of my latest project


























with historical inspiration from: Bulova Type A-15 Elapsed Time Watch


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## Wolfsatz

jisham said:


> 1) Solid caseback. I guess they figure if it's not visible, it doesn't need to be decorated
> 
> 2) Mostly an issue of time, and being careful on the most expensive watch I've cracked open so far. I've made some recent progress
> 
> I did get the stem out and remove the movement holders, but that was before JakeJD helped me realize it's a two part case. You don't need to release the movement holders, or the stem, to get at the hands. In fact, I don't think the movement with dial attached will fit through the rotating bezels to exit out the back. It is easier to remove it from the front/crystal side.
> 
> I'm new to this, but as I am learning, the 2824, and perhaps to a lesser extent the SW200, are a little finicky about stem removal, and possibly dislodging one of the intermediate gears in the keyless works. Getting access to the intermediate wheel can be tricky, possibly involving removing the dial or with winding bridge. I'm still still a newbie at this, so do your research first and be aware/careful of it.
> 
> If you open the back, and remove the four stainless screws, the crystal and bezel come off as a single piece, and you're left with the dial and internal rotating bezels as a flush piece, ready to work on the hands.
> 
> Here's one of four case screws highlighted in yellow
> 
> View attachment 9750938
> 
> 
> crystal and bezel come off as a single piece, no need to remove the movement (even though I did before I learned this)
> 
> View attachment 9750954
> 
> 
> dial ready for work on hands, hard to see at this angle, but this is flat and you could place a dial protector on there and safely work on hands
> 
> View attachment 9750962
> 
> 
> and a tease of some photo-gimp-ed mockups and work-in-progress of my latest project
> 
> View attachment 9750970
> View attachment 9750978
> View attachment 9750994
> View attachment 9751002
> 
> with historical inspiration from: Bulova Type A-15 Elapsed Time Watch
> View attachment 9751010


This watch would be supreme with a green (sarb17) and golden hands.

WIS Interwebs Communicator Tool


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## Relojes

Amazing contribution jisham, I don't have the steady hands (nor mechanical aptitude) to work on such small parts.

If I pull the trigger on this (I think there are a few left) I will just send out, probably to IWW. I'm partial to the orange lume on the minute hand (maybe both hands as in the original).

Two part case looks like the original, no?

http://www.mwrforum.net/forums/show...e-A-15-Elapsed-Time-Watch&p=146531#post146531


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## jisham

Relojes said:


> Amazing contribution jisham, I don't have the steady hands (nor mechanical aptitude) to work on such small parts.
> 
> If I pull the trigger on this (I think there are a few left) I will just send out, probably to IWW. I'm partial to the orange lume on the minute hand (maybe both hands as in the original).
> 
> Two part case looks like the original, no?
> 
> Bulova Type A-15 Elapsed Time Watch


steady hands help, but aren't necessary. Mine are not that steady, especially after my required morning dose of coffee, and I still got it done. Good vision is a must. My eyesight isn't great, but I love my Opti-Visor, it's like having "bionic" eyes. Working on watches is a nice test of my aging eyes and hands. I was hoping to have a final picture by now, but my A-15 has decided to give me a crash-course on the SW200-1 keyless works. I'm learning a lot, but still have a (small) pile of (very small) parts to put back on the watch before I can take the final picture. This is a great project for me, as it appears to be just slightly above my current skill level  (but that's how we learn).

I love the shots of the vintage watch on the link you provided. Is the lume actually orange, or does it just appear orange after all that aging? I think they went with orange lume on the limited edition, I assume that was a nod to the original.

The two part case design looks very similar, although it appears the vintage case has a press-on(maybe called snap-on?) caseback and press-on crystal/bezel, while on the new one they are both screw-down (with screws, rather than screwing on the entire caseback or bezel). This is an improvement in my opinion - I always hate the small scratches involved in removing a press-on back, and it is much easier to work with the screw-down versions. The rotating bezel rings and crowns look very similar.

Note that if you do send one out to get the hands lumed (or even do it yourself) - you don't need to remove the movement or crown stem to work on the hands. Remove the caseback to expose the screws for the crystal bezel, and then once that bezel is removed you have access to the remove and remount the hands.


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## Relojes

Well, a few more of the LEs went on sale on ebay and elsewhere for under $400 but I missed them. Just ordered the PVD version.

Any hints of waterproofing? I see no gaskets from the pics above and the water is rated "Water Resistant" which is the lowest rating possible.


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## jisham

Relojes said:


> Well, a few more of the LEs went on sale on ebay and elsewhere for under $400 but I missed them. Just ordered the PVD version.
> 
> Any hints of waterproofing? I see no gaskets from the pics above and the water is rated "Water Resistant" which is the lowest rating possible.


There is a gasket on the caseback. It's hard to see in most of my pics, I could probably find a better pic if you're interested, but it is there.

However, the crown doesn't screw down, and I don't think I've seen any gaskets on the crown stem, I'll take a closer look next time I have it out.

Also, this is a two part case, with the crystal/bezel also removable, but again I don't recall seeing a gasket there either. And if water were to ingress past the crystal bezel, it's easy for it to get in past the rotating bezels and into the movement.

I'm not sure what the published WR rating is, if any. I wouldn't trust it to more than incidental contact with water (hand washing, etc.). I believe they were originally meant to be pilot's watches - the usually assume that they will maintain at least a minimum of altitude above any large bodies of water.

FWIW... I also have some pictures of my lumed hands installed. I should have started another thread for that project, and don't want to hijack this thread, but if there is interest I can post them.


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## kuhar

jisham said:


> There is a gasket on the caseback. It's hard to see in most of my pics, I could probably find a better pic if you're interested, but it is there.
> 
> However, the crown doesn't screw down, and I don't think I've seen any gaskets on the crown stem, I'll take a closer look next time I have it out.
> 
> Also, this is a two part case, with the crystal/bezel also removable, but again I don't recall seeing a gasket there either. And if water were to ingress past the crystal bezel, it's easy for it to get in past the rotating bezels and into the movement.
> 
> I'm not sure what the published WR rating is, if any. I wouldn't trust it to more than incidental contact with water (hand washing, etc.). I believe they were originally meant to be pilot's watches - the usually assume that they will maintain at least a minimum of altitude above any large bodies of water.
> 
> FWIW... I also have some pictures of my lumed hands installed. I should have started another thread for that project, and don't want to hijack this thread, but if there is interest I can post them.


Please post all picture you have. I would like to relume hands on my watch and need all help I can get.

Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk


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## jisham

Apologies for hijacking the thread, but it seems there is some interest from others here.



kuhar said:


> Please post all picture you have. I would like to relume hands on my watch and need all help I can get.
> 
> Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk


I still have yet to pass the final exam in my crash course on the SW200-1 keyless works (my movement currently doesn't hack or hand-wind, but I'm still working on it), but I was able to re-assemble enough to take some lume pics this weekend.









This is with three layers of C1. The original lume looks like it has white paint on the bottom, which gives a "thicker" white look in normal light. I haven't done that, so the inner parts of the hands that I lumed look a little "thinner" or darker in normal light, but I don't mind it as it highlights the tips on the hands on the numbers where you read them. I only lumed the tip of the seconds hand. I maybe could have done more, as the lume pip on the seconds hand counter balance seems more noticeable. The above picture is a 15 second exposure, so the movement of the seconds hand is smeared into an arc, but you can still pick out the lume. The sharp eyed amongst you may have noticed my first mistake:








I used C1 lume which matches the white, but glows green. The original lume is more of a blue shade. I'm going to pretend I like the two color effect. but it's really because I don't have the energy to go back an re-lume them now, especially while I'm still trying to get the keyless works back in order.

So if you're trying it yourself you will probably want to try a different shade of lume, probably blue. Also, remember you don't need to remove the movement from the case to work on the hands. Remove the caseback, then remove the four screws for the crystal/front bezel, and you don't need to remove the crown stem and risk dis-locating the clutch pinion in the keyless works. I had some mockup photos in an earlier post that explored only luming one of the empty segments of the hands rather than both, decide which you like. It looks like the historical model had fully lumed hands. You can probably lume a longer section of the seconds hand. I didn't want to emphasize it too much, so I only lumed the tip where it overlaps the numerals. I can't quite tell from the pics of the historic model, but the seconds hand might have been fully lumed.

As far as technique. I learned everything I know from this three part series on the youtube "watch repair channel":
part 1 



part 2 



part 3 




Note how he builds up a blob of lume, then drags it across the hand to get a uniform sheet by using the surface tension of the paint.

And I bought a lume kit from esslinger. They also have other colors available. Blue is probably a better match than C1.

And thanks to JakeJD for giving me the intiial nudge I needed to try this.


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## kuhar

Thank you very much Jisham.

Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk


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## Relojes

jisham, it's no hijacking when you are offering the best review on the watch out there, but I think that lume work deserves its own thread.

BTW, just got mine today, I really like the blue lume.


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## JP71624

And to confirm the ETA inside...










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## MaxIcon

Nice work on the hand re-lume! I really want to like my PVD version - the dial and case design are great - but the terrible decision to only lume the tips of the hands makes it hard to tell the time at a glance. Also, I'd like to see more contrast on the red 24 hour numbers; they pretty much disappear on mine. Too bad the LE version is so much more expensive!

I'm wrestling with whether to try a re-lume myself or send it to someone to do. I suppose some practice on disposables will answer that for me.


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## jisham

JP71624 said:


>


Beautiful art shot!


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## JP71624

jisham said:


> Beautiful art shot!


Thank you so much!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk


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## DucMike

So, I am contemplating following in the footsteps of jisham in adding extra lume to the hands on my 65A106 (provided I decide to hang onto it) and was considering two possible options. I'm wondering if I shouldn't try to source a spare set of hands for the watch so I can undo this if I should ever decide to sell it. Another alternative would be to just bite the bullet and mod the existing hands. Does anybody know of a good source of parts where I could turn up a set of hands for a reasonable price?


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## JP71624

DucMike said:


> So, I am contemplating following in the footsteps of jisham in adding extra lume to the hands on my 65A106 (provided I decide to hang onto it) and was considering two possible options. I'm wondering if I shouldn't try to source a spare set of hands for the watch so I can undo this if I should ever decide to sell it. Another alternative would be to just bite the bullet and mod the existing hands. Does anybody know of a good source of parts where I could turn up a set of hands for a reasonable price?


I can help you with extra hand options or added lume to current hands. I may copy you and do the same thing with one of the black models...Or I had entertained the idea. 🤣

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk


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## jisham

DucMike said:


> So, I am contemplating following in the footsteps of jisham in adding extra lume to the hands on my 65A106 (provided I decide to hang onto it) and was considering two possible options. I'm wondering if I shouldn't try to source a spare set of hands for the watch so I can undo this if I should ever decide to sell it. Another alternative would be to just bite the bullet and mod the existing hands. Does anybody know of a good source of parts where I could turn up a set of hands for a reasonable price?


The SW200 is essentially the same as an ETA 2824, I'd be surprised if it's not easy to find hands for a 2824.

The SW200 tech docs show the hands "fitting" as 0.25mm for seconds, 0.90mm for minutes, and 1.50mm for hours.

I don't see lengths listed, but mine measure (center to tip / NOT full tip to tip length ):
seconds: approx 13mm
minutes: approx 15.4mm
hours: approx 13.5mm

Some variation on the hand lengths is probably fine. I could measure my dial, if there's interest, so you can match hand lengths to various dial indices.

This thread https://www.watchuseek.com/f21/seiko-eta-hand-hole-sizes-377585.html suggests you might be able to use common seiko hours/minutes hands on the watch. The hole for the seconds hand is different, though (ETA 025, Seiko 020), and probably won't work without some customizing. Should be possibly to ream out if you have the tools/skills, but that's a bit too small for me.

I've been meaning to make a separate thread on my hands re-lume for a while, but haven't done it yet ("Real Soon Now"). I've found what appears to be a good match to the blue/white lume if anyone is interested.


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## DucMike

JP71624 said:


> *I can help you with extra hand options* or added lume to current hands. I may copy you and do the same thing with one of the black models...Or I had entertained the idea. 藍
> 
> Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk


I'm really leaning towards this. I want to keep the appearance as close as possibe to original and still have the option to return it to box-stock if needed. Let me know what you find.


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## feltharg

hmm i thought there are only two types of this watch (head) - the regular PVD with white and the LE with SS case and orange/yellow.
I have bumped into this, does anyone own it? Jared - Bulova Men's Watch AccuSwiss A-15 65A106









i do own the regular black version but am desperately searching for the LE for decent price (bellow 500). there is one on ebay for 750 but i would feel weird paying that for something which went for 350 last year...


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## jisham

feltharg said:


> hmm i thought there are only two types of this watch (head) - the regular PVD with white and the LE with SS case and orange/yellow.
> I have bumped into this, does anyone own it? Jared - Bulova Men's Watch AccuSwiss A-15 65A106


 They list the model number as 65A106, which is the standard PVD with white lume, owned by many. I'm not sure why their render shows the white as a cream color. It also shows the red more boldly - it is rather a muted red in real life.


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## tayloreuph

Just got mine today, and the hands take a little getting used to, but the re-lume thread is fascinating. I'm getting tempted, but as it's only 1 day new, I'll probably wait.









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## jisham

tayloreuph said:


> Just got mine today, and the hands take a little getting used to, but the re-lume thread is fascinating. I'm getting tempted, but as it's only 1 day new, I'll probably wait.


Welcome to the club!

Definitely wait a bit and enjoy the watch a bit first before you crack it open. Who knows, you might enjoy the watch as it is, and save yourself the work of lume-ing the hands. There are certainly things that can go wrong in the keyless works of this watch when you un-case it. I know because I pretty much did them all. There were times I wished I'd never taken the watch apart, but in the end I learned a lot.

Try it stock for a while, and wear it in good health!


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## tylehman

i have found that i could read it most times, except in the early morning light. i can't see the numbers all night, but can see enough to read the time. in full light i think the hands are still hard to see but the tips are distinct enough that i can tell the time quickly. however, in the early morning light i can see the lume and the hands just disappear. i guess from about 6:00 to 7:00 i just have to not know the time.


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## tayloreuph

What about painting the hands white? So the cathedral area without lume might stand out against the black dial? Any thoughts on that?


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## tylehman

tayloreuph said:


> What about painting the hands white? So the cathedral area without lume might stand out against the black dial? Any thoughts on that?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


that might be a same. the finish on the hands is a nice glossy black, looks good but can be hard to read. i think the lume idea looks the best, just not sure i want to tackle it on a well running watch.


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